Turbo upgrade

[G70LEbyAdoom]

The head bolts start to stretch a bit under high boost, allowing the heads to lift up a tiny bit. This eventually screws the head gasket.
As previously mentioned, our tq converters quit after repeated high tq launches.
Axels can break if your lowered even with very few power mods.
The diff mounting bolts for the rear diff can break after a lot of hard launches. Not surprised since there is a ton of play with the rear diff. A diff brace helps fix this issue.

I believe tork is putting high strength diff bolts on the market soon if memory serves.

 

[Hawk853]

As long as you guys are content with being rollers only, then I wish y'all the best of luck. Both kits are able to push the power to where our tq converts say "aight I'm out". So far I have only heard of one case where someone was able to get the tq convert beefed up enough to handle the power.

Transmission build

After many months and a lot of headaches I can finally let everyone know about a built transmission option for our cars. Let me start off by saying I have yet to have the opportunity to fully test the limits of the new transmission but I finally have one in hand so I want to let everyone know...

stingerforum.org

Level Ten has built a trans so far. IPT in Patterson NJ would be another good bet. Both are very accomplished shops.

 

[GennyGuy]

That's an interesting thought process, and I have a feeling its not going to be fast enough for me either, even though this is my daily driver. That speed itch is a real bitch. I was hoping to be able to get this car as fast as I possibly can without going meth, cuz once you go meth, it becomes a real bitch to take off for warranty work. I have yet to get my car back yet, but the engine replacement is in the final stages thankfully, so we should know soon enough. I feel like Meth, an intercooler, snorkels, and working with lozic to increase the tune capabilities, will probably be the last mods ill be doing to this car to improve my 1/4 mile times, mainly because I'm not sure what else to do besides go big turbo, which if I wanted to do that, id rather sink the money into my dedicated fun car, which will hopefully be getting a proper paint job for the first time in 20 years this summer.

I think you will be happy with the mods you have planned. Also, prices maybe be less of a limiting factor depending on how long you okay to keep the car. If you know you plan to keep the car 10 years, then you don't really need to worry about going big turbo in year 0.4.

 

[GennyGuy]

Gotcha, that helps. We have a ton of folks on here that can't tell which end of a screwdriver to use, but want to jump straight to turbo swaps. And I have a personal mini-feud with a guy that's convinced that - literally - the only thing that matters for an FI engine is the MAP.

Anyway, there's extremely few people doing the type of stuff you're talking about. I would bet money there's less than 20 turbo swapped cars in the world. So there just won't be good data. And the few that are doing it keep all the information very close to the chest because they're all paranoid.

So nothing hard and fast to go on. Taking a look at theory, the factory turbos start to cavitate in the 18psi-20psi range. The pure hybrids should raise that to the 24-ish range. The Lap3 should be able to go well past that.
But now you're into the realm of one-off and stuff will start breaking. Where, realistically, is the breaking point for the block, crank, rods, trans, driveshaft, diff, axles? Dunno, but probably in that neighborhood.

And if you're talking drag times, then it's also time to look at the rear suspension. Probably needs to be replaced with something custom that's more suited for drag use.

No problem and good luck on the mini-feud.

Yup, this concern is exactly the main reason I went 1.4 bar for my initial tune. Didn't want to put too much street on factory turbos.

I know that suspension is an area that I'll need to upgrade but it's also an area I don't have much knowledge in. So I'm always open to advise. Most of my launches are dead stops, which is the most stressful on the car.

The question mark area for where the breaking points or weak points are on this platform is a concern. "How close am I before this mod?", "How far gone am I after or what else do I need to do to stay safe?" These are questions, like the areas you mentioned I'm hoping to get answered in this thread.

Thanks for your contributions to the discussion.

 

[GennyGuy]

The head bolts start to stretch a bit under high boost, allowing the heads to lift up a tiny bit. This eventually screws the head gasket.
As previously mentioned, our tq converters quit after repeated high tq launches.
Axels can break if your lowered even with very few power mods.
The diff mounting bolts for the rear diff can break after a lot of hard launches. Not surprised since there is a ton of play with the rear diff. A diff brace helps fix this issue.

Thanks.

Add 1 differential brace to cart lol.

 

[GennyGuy]

Transmission build

After many months and a lot of headaches I can finally let everyone know about a built transmission option for our cars. Let me start off by saying I have yet to have the opportunity to fully test the limits of the new transmission but I finally have one in hand so I want to let everyone know...

stingerforum.org

Level Ten has built a trans so far. IPT in Patterson NJ would be another good bet. Both are very accomplished shops.

I did see the transmission build thread. I just drove through Jersey today. Good to hear the shop is reputable.

 

[General_Vodka]

Thanks.

Add 1 differential brace to cart lol.

Make sure it's the updated version with the new diff cover bolts. Well if it's directly from BMS then you should be good. They have a small shoulder near the head. The old bolts had threads all the way to the head. And they can snap. Like inside your diff. Ask me how I know.....
Good thing I knew someone with a bolt extraction tool.

 

[GennyGuy]

Make sure it's the updated version with the new diff cover bolts. Well if it's directly from BMS then you should be good. They have a small shoulder near the head. The old bolts had threads all the way to the head. And they can snap. Like inside your diff. Ask me how I know.....
Good thing I knew someone with a bolt extraction tool.

I clicked on BMS site, but haven't finished purchased yet because I'm adding a few other things and still undecided. I got back from vacation to find my dragy had imploded ‍.

Are there better braces out there, or is it of those things that is pretty much going to do the same regardless of who makes it?

 

[General_Vodka]

I clicked on BMS site, but haven't finished purchased yet because I'm adding a few other things and still undecided. I got back from vacation to find my dragy had imploded ‍.

Are there better braces out there, or is it of those things that is pretty much going to do the same regardless of who makes it?

BMS makes the only diff brace that I'm aware. Tork is in the process of making stronger diff mounting bolts.

 

[BradMc]

Sorry old thread.
I drag my Stinger GT-2 AWD in the Series up here in Canada.
I usually around 23-24psi boost.. moat difficult thing I am dealing with right now is traction! Have smoked the tires the whole length. (We only run 1/8m in bracket series here.)
Just got some Toyo proxes RR to see if they will help. Stock turbos but mostly everything else has been upgraded. I am running Pro Series and Sportsmen Series.. less than half a second off from being able to run Super Pro.. BUT unless I have a roll cage they won't let me anyway.. and yes it's my daily.