3.3TT How do I remove a stuck socket from rim lug nut?

[Rev_Night]

Hmmm fasinating. Those lug nuts are longer, so more of the key fits into them. This equals more contact, less likely to be stripped etc... Hmm I like those, but I will buy those for the Enkei rims, and upgrade my current TSW nuts. Reason being I am going to be doing this 2x a year (in theory, 2 HPDE per year), so whatever takes the wheels off the quickest is nice.

 

[D.J.]

You could try hammering the spline drive socket on deeper...

Those spline drive lugs are usually quite deep - with lots of "depth of socket engagement".

Of course you may have damaged the lug nut by using a Hex socket.


I would try hammering the spline drive socket on deeper...

 

[Rev_Night]

I dont think I damaged this particular socket because I did a new one. So I have tried on multiple sockets, although only one with the cheater bar

 

[boosted1g]

Look at the attached. The left said is where the 19mm socket goes, and the right side is what fits onto the lugnut.

Using the cheater bar from my jack (again, great idea), after some force I immediately felt it begin to turn. Yay! When I got on my knees to try and finish the job off with just the socket, the socket wouldn't fit. Looking at the nut, i am 90% certain I rounded it :/

Time to call the shop

Am I understanding you correctly, you loosened it with breaker bar + socket + key and then tried to finish removing it with just the socket on the bare lug nut?

If that is correct, then yes the socket alone is not going to turn the lug nut at all, that is how it is deliberately designed, that is the entire point of the product.
You need to use the key not just to break it loose/torque it down, but for the entire removal/install of the lug nuts.

 

[D.J.]

Am I understanding you correctly, you loosened it with breaker bar + socket + key and then tried to finish removing it with just the socket on the bare lug nut?

If that is correct, then yes the socket alone is not going to turn the lug nut at all, that is how it is deliberately designed, that is the entire point of the product.
You need to use the key not just to break it loose/torque it down, but for the entire removal/install of the lug nuts.

If your understanding of his description turns out to be correct.....

Props to you for reading through that ambiguity...


The Spline socket is the only socket that should touch the spline lug nuts.

 

[Rev_Night]

Am I understanding you correctly, you loosened it with breaker bar + socket + key and then tried to finish removing it with just the socket on the bare lug nut?

If that is correct, then yes the socket alone is not going to turn the lug nut at all, that is how it is deliberately designed, that is the entire point of the product.
You need to use the key not just to break it loose/torque it down, but for the entire removal/install of the lug nuts.

My apologies, I updated my post. I tried to remove the nut with the 'socket + key'. As in after I had loosened it (in my mind) quite a bit with the cheater/breaker bar, I thought I could hand remove the nut by turning it only with the socket + key. I need both to give me a good grip. This is when I discovered that the key would not fit onto the lugnut

 

[JSolo]

My winter wheels used this type of lugnut/socket. 9 Seasons of on/off without damaging either the socket or the nuts. I would use an impact to remove them, but never to install.

The socket was used almost entirely for loosening as there wasn't enough of the nut protruding to get a good grip on, even when it's mostly loose.

Sometimes it would take turning the key a rotation or so to get the splines to line up. I assume you've done this? Also, the keys are generally universal, so another key should be able to get it off if the spline on the lug nut are not overly damaged.

 

[Rev_Night]

I spoke with GetYourWheels and Tirerack, and they said that all lug nuts will fit between OEM rims and Aftermarket ones, assuming that aftermarket isn't super strange. He said to use 12x1.5mm lugs. I found a whole slew of these on Amazon simple enough.

I like the idea of extended ones to help with contact. As long as the nuts stay as 12x1.5mm, will anything extended work? Assuming base is still the same (conical seat) etc..

 

[Danny5]

I installed lowering springs over the weekend and ran into the same issue.

I have Muteki steel splined open end acorns. I've been using them for almost 10 years on various cars. They are amazing, and have never given me a problem.

But this last time, Discount Tire must have let the impact do the talking, because leaning onto my floor jack handle on a 1/2" Craftsman socket resulted in a shattered spline drive key. I had to drive to the store to buy a new key.

Luckily, the keys are cheap, because I broke one more before the job was complete.

 

[boosted1g]

I spoke with GetYourWheels and Tirerack, and they said that all lug nuts will fit between OEM rims and Aftermarket ones, assuming that aftermarket isn't super strange. He said to use 12x1.5mm lugs. I found a whole slew of these on Amazon simple enough.

I like the idea of extended ones to help with contact. As long as the nuts stay as 12x1.5mm, will anything extended work? Assuming base is still the same (conical seat) etc..

Extended are designed for deep rims. These could stick out from normal rims and look weird.

Normal length have plenty enough for spline/socket to bite to tighten/loosen them, when done properly.
Would be far more worried about some no-name extended lugs from amazon/ebay (of questionable quality) stripping out.