3.3TT How do I remove a stuck socket from rim lug nut?

[Rev_Night]

So I just got some lowering springs/brake lines and I want to install them. Fine. So this is the first time I have removed my TSW Sprints (19s) and I don't know the exact socket to use. I have deep sockets, shallow, impact, normal, metric, and imperial. I find a socket that seems to 1) fit inside the lug nut cavity and 2) fit the nut. Its a 21mm deep impact socket. Fine, well and good.

I use a 6" extension and a breaker bar, and I turn it to the left. Per usual, there is quite a big of resistance, which is to be expected. The socket moves, but I don't feel the nut moving. Did I just round a nut? Anyway, I am freaking out, and I turn the socket both left and right, trying to remove it.

It's stuck.

1) How do I remove a stuck socket?
2) If 21mm is not the correct socket, then what is?

Help me obi-wan kenobi, you are my only hope.

 

[boosted1g]

Stock lug nuts are 21mm, now if you got different lugs with your rims then I have no idea.

Your post is a little confusing, at one point you say the socket just spins freely, but then also say it is completely stuck.

Either way, hit the socket from Left and right with a hammer with medium force to dislodge it. If the nut does spin, then spin it with your hand until it is snug before hitting it with hammer)

One other possibility is that whoever installed your rims over torqued them, and now your lug bolt is striped and turning inside the hub.
If that is the case then the fix is the same as if you rounded out the nut, the lugnut and stud will have to be drilled out and replaced. This is a sucky process. It is something you can do at home if you have the tools, use ALOT of tape around the hole to (hopefully) prevent rim damage.

 

[D.J.]

The socket moves, but I don't feel the nut moving.

Can you elaborate on this exact point?

 

[boosted1g]

Can you elaborate on this exact point?

Was wondering that as well

 

[Rev_Night]

After hammering it from multiple angles, I was able to get the socket free!

But as for my point above, I looked at the lugnut and I can def tell it was being rounded. So the socket was moving, but the nut wasn't. I sprayed PB blaster all over these lugs, I will do so tomorrow, and I will try again Sunday.

As for reference, this is the first time me taking off the tires on my own. I think it has only happened 1-2x before, and that was at the shop, so they easily can have over torqued them. If they did, how am I to take them off? I have a 21mm socket, several extensions, breakbar, and a long cheater bar. Force will not be a problem, but rounding the lug is.

 

[StingertimeNC]

I'm guessing your lug nuts are 19mm. that's why the 21mm spun a little. I would check one of the other lugs and see if 19mm fits. if so, hopefully you can still get the damaged lug nut off.

 

[boosted1g]

I agree with StingertimeNC, verify that the 21mm socket fits the other lug nuts.
If the lug nuts are not OEM they could even be SAE sized. Another possibility is that they have a thick plating on them that makes them big for their intended socket size.
The difference between 19mm and 21mm is about .08 inches.

If they are OEM lug nuts then the shop likely over torqued them.

Also make sure you got your socket gets completely on the lug nut. If it is only half way on the lug nut then good odds it will round since the first 1/4 of it is tapered.

One other question, are your sockets of decent quality? Some cheapo junk set will have very crappy tolerances.

I highly suggest a non-marring socket for lug nuts
For just a 21mm:

https://www.amazon.com/Titan-Tools-21093-Non-Marring-Socket/dp/B008XMDSJC

or if you also need 17 or 19 mm and a 21 mm then I would just get this set:

Amazon.com: CRAFTSMAN CMMT98282 CRFT 3 PC NON-MARRING LUG NUT SET : Tools & Home Improvement

Amazon.com: CRAFTSMAN CMMT98282 CRFT 3 PC NON-MARRING LUG NUT SET : Tools & Home Improvement

www.amazon.com

So if sockets are of questionable quality: get different sockets before going forward

If sockets are decent:
If you can, take it to a garage or someone with an impact wrench to break them loose, then hand torque it back on to drive home.
Impact wrench has better chance of getting enough burst bite to break your rounded lug nut free
If not, then use a nice long breaker bar and apply smooth pressure (you can even stand on breaker bar), you want to avoid harsh jerky pressure.

If the rounded lug nut is completely f'd and stripped, then the only option is to drill it in the middle. Unfortunately the recessed holes in rims do not provide enough room to use a bolt-out extractor. Put painters tap all around the hole to protect them and then start with small drill bit (like 5/64 or 3/32) and slowly work your way up, stepping up 1/16 or even 1/32 in drill bit size at a time, and make sure to keep applying drill lubricant to the bits.
This will not only destroy the lug nut but the stud as well. Once the tire is free, tap the stud out and hammer a new one in. You will likely need to remove the rotor. FYI, if this is a rear rotor then use a wrench or long screwdriver to put prying force on the back side of the rotor to dislodge it from the parking brake assembly; tapping it with a hammer typically will not budge it.

I would also suggest at some point getting an electric 1/2" impact wrench (or air one if you have a 25+ gallon compressor).
Dont need to drop Snap-On level money, but get something of decent quality like Dewalt or even Porter Cable, just dont by black and decker or no-name amazon brand.

 

[Rev_Night]

ok peeps, I found the issue: my aftermarket rims have a key that is required for every lugnut. Back when I had my Z, the Enkei rims had a key that was requires for one lug nut, the rest were there standard socket. And on that one key-required nut, the socket wouldn't even fit. So on my stinger, when the I felt the socket 90% attach to the nut, I thought I was fine.

I took the key and attached it to each lugnut, 100% fit. On Friday night, and Saturday night, I soaked the lugnuts with PB blaster to really increase my chances. On Sunday, I took a 18" breaker bar, 19mm impact socket, and the key, and I took it to several of these lugnuts.

no dice. they ain't moving. Either 1) they are overtorqued due to previous shop 2) they are rusted, or 3) both, also 4) you're fat and weak. Anyways.

Next steps:
-Going to dig through my shed for my old impact wrench. See if that works
-Go to lowes/home depot and get a 3 foot cheater bar. Back in the day these were cheap as shit, post covid god I hope these arent $$
-If all else fails, talk to local mechanic, ask they loosen all nuts to all rims and then torque to spec. Also put some anti-seize on them.

 

[boosted1g]

Just put a piece of your jack handle or other pipe over your 18" breaker bar.

 

[Rev_Night]

Just put a piece of your jack handle or other pipe over your 18" breaker bar.

OH SHIT.

thats genius

 

[StingertimeNC]

damn, that stinks! probably crappy lug nuts.

 

[StingertimeNC]

OH SHIT.

thats genius

LOL! assumed that was already tried!

 

[Rev_Night]

No sir, back in the day I had a dedicated cheater bar. Never thought about using the jack handle.

Oh btw, can lugnuts be used across different rims? I have a set of TSW springs, and Enkeis. Can I use the same nuts?

 

[D.J.]

ok peeps, I found the issue: my aftermarket rims have a key that is required for every lugnut. Back when I had my Z, the Enkei rims had a key that was requires for one lug nut, the rest were there standard socket. And on that one key-required nut, the socket wouldn't even fit. So on my stinger, when the I felt the socket 90% attach to the nut, I thought I was fine.

I took the key and attached it to each lugnut, 100% fit. On Friday night, and Saturday night, I soaked the lugnuts with PB blaster to really increase my chances. On Sunday, I took a 18" breaker bar, 19mm impact socket, and the key, and I took it to several of these lugnuts.

no dice. they ain't moving. Either 1) they are overtorqued due to previous shop 2) they are rusted, or 3) both, also 4) you're fat and weak. Anyways.

Next steps:
-Going to dig through my shed for my old impact wrench. See if that works
-Go to lowes/home depot and get a 3 foot cheater bar. Back in the day these were cheap as shit, post covid god I hope these arent $$
-If all else fails, talk to local mechanic, ask they loosen all nuts to all rims and then torque to spec. Also put some anti-seize on them.

Can you post a picture of this "key" that fits the lug nuts on 1 side and a 19mm socket on the other?


Is it just a 12mm hex?

 

[JSolo]

No sir, back in the day I had a dedicated cheater bar. Never thought about using the jack handle.

Oh btw, can lugnuts be used across different rims? I have a set of TSW springs, and Enkeis. Can I use the same nuts?

Do not even attempt this until you've verified what type of seats each wheel has. Most aftermarket wheels are the tapered/acorn type. Verify first. Wrong lug nuts can damage wheels and/or cause wheels to come off.

OEM on the honda was the ball seat type, and tapered with washer on the G. Oem on the stinger (at least the gtline w/18" wheels) appears to be a combination of tapered with washer but is different dimensions than the G type.

 

[boosted1g]

On top of everything JSolo said about the seat/tappet needing to match the wheels .... the lug nuts also need to match the lugs thread size and pitch of your car.

 

[JSolo]

^^Them nuts are so complicated!!

 

[Rev_Night]

I'll go ask Enkei if the same nuts will fit

 

[Rev_Night]

Can you post a picture of this "key" that fits the lug nuts on 1 side and a 19mm socket on the other?


Is it just a 12mm hex?

Look at the attached. The left said is where the 19mm socket goes, and the right side is what fits onto the lugnut.

Using the cheater bar from my jack (again, great idea), after some force I immediately felt it begin to turn quite a bit. Yay! When I got on my knees to try and finish the job off with just the socket+key, the key wouldn't fit. Looking at the nut, i am 90% certain I rounded it :/

Time to call the shop

 

[D.J.]

Those are these...

Spline drive.

Now it makes sense why a Hex socket wouldn't work.

White Knight 3809L-20AM 14mm x 1.50 Thread Size Long Spline Drive Lug Nut with Key, Chrome, 20-Pack https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00B2FCF1O/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_ZYW5HRZVVV3QGJKQJM0G?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1