Dead battery

[JSolo]

^^How'd you route the wires for the charger?

 

[D.J.]

Hi,
Yes, mainly short trips tbh. Rarely do more than 30 miles in one go.
I’m not quite sure whether the current battery is an AGM..is there a way to tell other than if it says AGM on it?
I have just noticed that the new battery that I have just reserved at the store appears to be a non AGM battery, but when I put my registration number in, this is the one it recommended.

If your car is not equipped with idle stop and go (stop start), it is unlikely to be equipped with the more expensive and more robust AGM battery.

if it is an AGM battery, it will say right on it

Here is mine

 

[ChaneRZ]

^^How'd you route the wires for the charger?

NOCO X-Connect 10' Extension Cable

X-Connect 10-Foot extension cable allows you to extend the reach of your Genius battery charger and accessories, making it easier to reach awkward locations. Extend the reach of your battery charger and accessories. Add an additional 10 feet of length to any connection.

no.co

NOCO X-Connect Eyelet Terminal Connector

X-Connect Eyelet Terminal allows a battery charger to connect quickly to any battery. Replace a lost connector or permanently mount one on your motorcycle, ATV, snowmobile, personal watercraft, lawn mower and more for easy charging.

no.co

 

[Taffy]

Yep, gonna get the new one installed tomorrow. Mine definitely doesn’t have AGM written on it, so I guess it’s a ‘standard’ version’.
The car is a 2018 btw.
Thanks for all the advice.

 

[D.J.]

Yep, gonna get the new one installed tomorrow. Mine definitely doesn’t have AGM written on it, so I guess it’s a ‘standard’ version’.
The car is a 2018 btw.
Thanks for all the advice.

So is mine (2018) - Canada 3.3 turbo AWD
I guess the battery type is region specific.

 

[DonD]

I know about the jump start connections but as you know, the owner's manual says to take the battery out for charging. I find this absurd, I've been charging or topping off the battery via terminals under the hood since forever and successfully I would add.

I called the service manager of a well regarded Kia dealership and posed that question to him. He repeated the owner's manual and said take the battery out for charging.

I'm assuming he knows more than I do but I would really like a Kia engineer to step up and clarify this situation. Is it CYA or are there real concerns about under hood charging? Don

 

[Flynfishmedic]

Hey Don, this is not my wheelhouse but I know the reason I was given for removing for charging was the potential for fire. Even though there is a low probability of it happening, it can happen!

 

[D.J.]

The owners manual says to charge it by removing the battery. The only reason(s) is an ABUNDANCE of safety/liability


The service manual says to charge it in the car (the Kia service manual), this assumes some basic knowledge so you don't blow yourself up or cause a fire.


If you were curious about how to calibrate the battery sensor, it is just about the easiest procedure of all procedures. (The acronym "AMS" is Alternator Management System).


The description of the battery sensor - it is basically a current meter that can monitor the current in/out at the battery + temperature and voltage.


My screenshot game is on point

 

[JSolo]

Hey Don, this is not my wheelhouse but I know the reason I was given for removing for charging was the potential for fire. Even though there is a low probability of it happening, it can happen!

Valid concern. The mfg doesn't know what kind of charger end user will use. Will the use a maintainer or a charger. I can see overcharging having potential for fire. Also ventilation plays a role. If my garage was detached, I would not be comfortable charging any battery within unsupervised.

I've used the battery tender maintainers for well over 2 decades, starting with motorcycle batteries back in the 90's. In fact that 1.25A unit still works. It's been 4 or 5 days now since hoooking up the newer 4.5A unit. Haven't gone anywhere all week. Will check later today what the kill-a-watt meter shows and voltage of battery.

 

[Swap_File]

I've found a battery tender jr to be enough to keep my Stinger battery topped off during storage. The first time I hooked it up it took about a week to top off my battery and the light to turn solid green, now it tops it off in a few hours.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Battery-Tender-0-75-Amp-12-Volt-Car-Battery-Charger/1002650248

I wired it into the fuse panel near the drivers seat with a fuse tap. This way I can't forget that it's plugged in and try to drive away.

The car door easily closes over the wire while plugged in, and it can be unplugged and hung up on the garage wall from the drivers seat, and the car side of the plug can be tucked up into the fuse box handle hole when it's not in use.

 

[JSolo]

Wow.. 750mA. Tiny thing. I suppose it doesn't really matter assuming the battery is in good shape. That 4.5A goes to stand by within an hour or so.

I looked at my kill-a-watt meter. After 120 hours (5 days), it's registering .29 kwh used, ~2.4watts/hr avg.

Valid point about driving away with it hooked up. Hard to do in my case as the car is backed into the garage and hood left ajar. I'd love to wire something under the grill so hood can remain closed. Project for next year.

 

[Swap_File]

Yeah, my theory is that if my Junior charger unit can't keep up, I've got other electrical problems, and should probably replace the battery anyway.

 

[Taffy]

Hi, I picked up a new battery yesterday and I was going to have someone more qualified than me fit it. However, I actually fancy doing it myself. From what I can see, it appears pretty straight forward…looks like you have to undo the ‘fuse box’ that is attached to it, then undo and remove the battery. Does this sound about right? Any other advice? Should I even be trying this myself??

 

[JSolo]

The battery is heavy.. a helper might be useful. Don't fry the car by reversing polarity.

 

[MerlintheMad]

I actually fancy doing it myself.

You must be a hefty bloke then. There is no way that I would risk my back or a hernia lifting out a dead battery this big and reversing that with a new one. The removal of the "fuse box" and managing of nuts and bolts, etc., I think I could work my way through carefully.

 

[ChaneRZ]

Don’t know if the battery has to be programmed/coded. I know BMW and Audi do.

 

[D.J.]

Don’t know if the battery has to be programmed/coded. I know BMW and Audi do.

It does not need any "Coding" or programming.

The AMS could use a quick calibration though.

I posted the calibration procedure for the AMS in this thread - post #28

 

[mikser100]

The owners manual says to charge it by removing the battery. The only reason(s) is an ABUNDANCE of safety/liability
View attachment 66310

The service manual says to charge it in the car (the Kia service manual), this assumes some basic knowledge so you don't blow yourself up or cause a fire.
View attachment 66311

If you were curious about how to calibrate the battery sensor, it is just about the easiest procedure of all procedures. (The acronym "AMS" is Alternator Management System).
View attachment 66312

The description of the battery sensor - it is basically a current meter that can monitor the current in/out at the battery + temperature and voltage.
View attachment 66313

My screenshot game is on point

The procedure to reset AMS is to just shut the car off for 4 hours? Is something missing here? I plan to use my XTool to go and reset AMS, or what XTool calls "BMS" after replacement, but was curious about this procedure you posted anyways due to its suspicious simplicity.

 

[Ah GetFd]

Hi there,
My Stinger GT hasn’t been driven for 2.5 months and it wouldn’t start the other day. I have managed to jump start it, drove it for a couple of hours and then turned the car off. It wouldn’t start again. I have a trickle charger which may help to fix the issue, but I’m not altogether sure how to connect the crocodile clips to the battery, which I’ve found in the boot. Is it just as simple as connecting the red leads to the positive and the black to the negative or do you have to connect the negative to somewhere other than the battery itself? I am trying to avoid buying a new battery.
Thanks for your help.

If you car hadn't been driven for 2.5 months then that is probably the reason the battery has gone flat. Apart from the natural discharge of a battery it is also supplying your car alarm whilst sitting there without a charge through normal driving.

A trickle charger is just that. It trickles in. It is a very low charge rate and will take at least 10 hours to fully charge a battery without driving it. Think of your battery like a jug of water and you are steadily filling it with an eye dropper.

Driving it will charge it faster but you would have to drive it for a couple of continuous hours so that's not a good solution either.

Red to Positive. Black to negative.

The reason there are connectors under the hood marked so is because your battery is located under the spare wheel in the rear and hard to get to. Use the underhood connectors.

I can see you have already purchased a battery.

 

[D.J.]

The procedure to reset AMS is to just shut the car off for 4 hours? Is something missing here? I plan to use my XTool to go and reset AMS, or what XTool calls "BMS" after replacement, but was curious about this procedure you posted anyways due to its suspicious simplicity.

No need to reset with any "tool" just wait approx. 4 hours with the vehicle off, and doors/hood closed.
No need to be skeptical. It is that easy. it's from a legit source