Engine Mounts - vibrations

[7Andrei7]

Hi guys!

For the past year I've been struggling with a problem that my dealer is simply unable to fix. I have the 2.0 T-GDI.
When I start the car in the morning, the engine idles very rough when the car is in gear (D or R). The idle in N/P is normal. After the engine warms up (15 min or so), it all calms down and no more vibrations.
They assumed it was the engine so they changed: spark plugs, high pressure pump, all 4 fuel injectors. Checked a bunch of stuff.. and ended up saying it's the ECU's software that adjusts the idle and they can't do anything about the vibrations.

Now, looking at the engine idling in the morning, with the car in Drive (and only in drive), you can clearly see and hear the revs drop and the engine shuddering only to balance itself out immediately. Then, few seconds later, again. I am not applying any throttle. Just keeping my foot on the brake pedal with the car in drive.

Do you think it could be the engine mounts? I feel like it vibrates and moves too much for a rev drop of 800 to 600. The vibrations are very strong in the cabin as well.

Thank you!

 

[vipeboy2000]

if it only does this in drive or reverse, it sounds like a bad torque converter but generally that would be rough even after warm up.... sometimes vacuum leaks go away once warm.. hmm .. how many miles/km?

 

[7Andrei7]

It has 95k km. But has been doing this since it had about 65-70k km.
About vacuum leaks... I do have a hard brake pedal if I leave it parked for more than a few days. Is this related?
But wouldn't vacuum leaks manifest also when engine is warm?

 

[MerlintheMad]

You've asked the question, now it's time to trouble shoot the engine mounts: that shouldn't be difficult to check out, just tell them to make sure that your engine is solidly mounted still.

(I had an old Voyager van with twice the miles as your Stinger, and it idled very rough in gear as well; but also if it was in N and I revved it, it got very rough: not so much driving: but it was very dramatic, the difference, how everything smoothed out once I got the broken engine mount replaced: I had been driving it that way for a while: just got used to it: my mechanic found the broken engine mount when he did a bumper to bumper inspection to answer my question, "Is this old thing in good enough shape to 'restorod' it?").

 

[vipeboy2000]

It has 95k km. But has been doing this since it had about 65-70k km.
About vacuum leaks... I do have a hard brake pedal if I leave it parked for more than a few days. Is this related?
But wouldn't vacuum leaks manifest also when engine is warm?

it definitely "could" be related.... it might go away if there is a tiny crack or something somewhere that expands as it heats up sealing up the issue at temp...

 

[7Andrei7]

I was at the dealer again this morning. I had let the car over night for them to start it in the morning with the diagnosing equipment attached. Fortunately it was super cold last night and this morning so it was all very visible.

They have no definitive answer but they could see some slight abnormality in the torque converter so they will ask Kia to approve a replacement one. The guy kept insisting that vibrations are normal when the car is in D but he admitted in the end that the intensity and drops were a little too severe.
They will also order a set of engine mounts.
I should have an answer within the week apparently.

 

[7Andrei7]

I've been reading like crazy now about torque converters to figure out if there were other symptoms to point to it being bad and I have a question:
When the car is in Drive and brakes applied, and the torque converter is in stall, should the wheels move if they lose grip?
I remembered this particular situation when I was stopping on ice and the car would not stop unless I would switch to N. In Drive, with brakes fully applied, the rear wheels kept on moving slowly and pushing the tail of the car to the side. It's RDW.
Is this a sign that my converter does not Stall? Or is this simply how the things work?
Sorry for being so incompetent!

 

[7Andrei7]

So, FINALLY, some good news!
Today I picked up my car from the dealer with the new torque converter and the vibration problems and the revs dropping are totally fixed! Started it a 2 degrees Celsius and was smooth as a kitten.

Driving it today I realise my car has had a bad torque converter from factory. I remember feeling that it was so unrefined compared to a bmw 3series because when I would come to a complete stop (in Drive) the stinger kept wanting to move aggressively. The moment I would loosen the brake even a little the car would immediately sprint forward. The bmw was much more relaxed... when it came to a stop it felt like the engine would somehow disconnect and didn't feel so eager to move unless you would take your foot off the brake for more than a second or so. And even then, it would sloooowly creep forward.

Well, turns out I just had a bad torque converter because today my Stinger is sooooooooo smooth. Either they put a new spec, much more refined converter or mine was just broken.

 

[SKStinger]

Glad you got it sorted. Although it is annoying that Kia Dealers try to pass off stuff like this as "normal" without thoroughly trouble-shooting the issue. There was nothing normal about those symptoms or the video you posted.

 

[TaraBee]

I have a ton of vibration when the vehicle is shifted into D or R and it was making a horrible noise. They said there was a loose bolt on the exhaust. They tightened it and the noise is resolved but the vibration is still there. When the car is put into gear with brakes applied it squats and the brakes creak like it’s trying to move. So I left it at the dealership and told them I wasn’t satisfied the vibration was resolved. They said they tightened another bolt on the exhaust….could the vibration have loosened them and the exhaust was a secondary issue? I’m not convinced it isn’t the torque converter after reading your post and I’m not happy with the dealership saying they tightened the exhaust bolts and fixed an issue clearly stemming from drivetrain engagement.

 

[MerlintheMad]

I have a ton of vibration when the vehicle is shifted into D or R and it was making a horrible noise. They said there was a loose bolt on the exhaust. They tightened it and the noise is resolved but the vibration is still there. When the car is put into gear with brakes applied it squats and the brakes creak like it’s trying to move. So I left it at the dealership and told them I wasn’t satisfied the vibration was resolved. They said they tightened another bolt on the exhaust….could the vibration have loosened them and the exhaust was a secondary issue? I’m not convinced it isn’t the torque converter after reading your post and I’m not happy with the dealership saying they tightened the exhaust bolts and fixed an issue clearly stemming from drivetrain engagement.

Howdy and welcome. Show them this thread.

 

[Victor Moreno]

So, FINALLY, some good news!
Today I picked up my car from the dealer with the new torque converter and the vibration problems and the revs dropping are totally fixed! Started it a 2 degrees Celsius and was smooth as a kitten.

Driving it today I realise my car has had a bad torque converter from factory. I remember feeling that it was so unrefined compared to a bmw 3series because when I would come to a complete stop (in Drive) the stinger kept wanting to move aggressively. The moment I would loosen the brake even a little the car would immediately sprint forward. The bmw was much more relaxed... when it came to a stop it felt like the engine would somehow disconnect and didn't feel so eager to move unless you would take your foot off the brake for more than a second or so. And even then, it would sloooowly creep forward.

Well, turns out I just had a bad torque converter because today my Stinger is sooooooooo smooth. Either they put a new spec, much more refined converter or mine was just broken.

What did the dealership tell you or do to pin point the issue because I took my car in yesterday for similar problems. I have so much vibration when accelerating and turning in any direction. I feel the wheels also shake when doing so. And I took it in and they called me they said everything seems okay no issue ls with Diff or anything else. They said they drove it a few miles solo and with another technician. They feel the vibrations but can see where it's coming from. I feel like they are just trying to pass along and not even try to warranty fix it

 

[7Andrei7]

Well, in the beginning they kept saying it's normal. So I pushed them to show me another Stinger in their parking lot which is doing the same thing. When we got past the "it's normal" bullshit they agreed to diagnose it properly withe an OBD machine and reading all parameters.
They did it on a cold engine/morning so that everything was very visible.
The trouble with this method is that tolerances seem to be high on some parts so unless they properly fail they can't fix them on warranty.

 

[socalvn]

Well that's good you got it fixed to check engine mounts put your car in drive with the hood open foot on the brake give it some gas if the motor lifts You have a broken mount do the same in reverse

 

[Victor Moreno]

Well, in the beginning they kept saying it's normal. So I pushed them to show me another Stinger in their parking lot which is doing the same thing. When we got past the "it's normal" bullshit they agreed to diagnose it properly withe an OBD machine and reading all parameters.
They did it on a cold engine/morning so that everything was very visible.
The trouble with this method is that tolerances seem to be high on some parts so unless they properly fail they can't fix them on warranty.

Do you have any mods ? I have a few but none to reflect back to causing any damages like that. They did ask me if I had a separate ecu or tcu and I haven't messed with them yet. But not they want me to go back to do a ride along which I've done at another location because they want to see how I drive and when the issue occurs at the time.

 

[7Andrei7]

I had no mods. But my issue was only present in winter, on the first 10-15 min with a cold engine. And only when idling in D or R.
No problems other than that. I was just unlucky to get a car with a failing torque converter. If I had waited longer maybe there would have been more simptoms developing.

 

[TaraBee]

Well, in the beginning they kept saying it's normal. So I pushed them to show me another Stinger in their parking lot which is doing the same thing. When we got past the "it's normal" bullshit they agreed to diagnose it properly withe an OBD machine and reading all parameters.
They did it on a cold engine/morning so that everything was very visible.
The trouble with this method is that tolerances seem to be high on some parts so unless they properly fail they can't fix them on warranty.

So, I have had my car (2018 Premium) at two different dealerships. It’s doing the exact same thing yours is in the video, shaking, shuddering and vibrating only when in D or R worse on a cold start. The first dealership lied and said they opened a tech line with KIA and “ItS oPeRaTiNg As DeSiGnEd” (KIA corporate said no tech line was ever opened on my vehicle.) So now we are at the second dealership who said my air filter was clogged and it was due for plugs and it was vibrating because it was “starving for air” So, I said whatever if the maintenance is due, do it but it isn’t going to fix an issue stemming from drive train engagement. Lo and behold, the issue is still present. Is there anyway to get the contact info for the dealership that resolved this issue for you?? I have sent them the info from this thread and they are acting like “Oh you read that on the Internet, did you?”

 

[7Andrei7]

Sadly, I don't think I can help. Even if they'll give me something (which I doubt) it will be in romanian. The problem is that I know another person facing the same problem here in Bucharest but the dealer refuses to help them because they bought the car from Germany and didn't service it with them from the beginning.