What did you do to your Kia Stinger today?

Not that I could tell, but I was overly cautious coming off both high speed straights. I also stopped 10-15 mph short of top speeds I could have easily hit. Basically coasting for a bit then easing into the brakes, then going harder once speeds came down. It just always worried me. I really wanted to be safe first, especially with traffic around, and get the car home in one piece. I was also concerned about the fluid. need to upgrade that as well. the nice thing is temps were in the 40's and 50's so that kept things cooler.
That's good. You'd know if they did fade... Trust me.;) (o_O:poop: )
 
Totally agree but in texas you dont want to be a volunteer to get pulled over lol
Wait really? In Texas where everyone is about freedom and guns? no front plate since i got the car here in cali. And not like I have been a perfect follower of all the laws either. Been bulled over a bunch of times but not once for no front plate and no one even mentioned it. If anything I was going to say that the special bracket is on back order due to the pandemic and supply chain crisis... You must live in a calified town man.
 
Wait really? In Texas where everyone is about freedom and guns? no front plate since i got the car here in cali. And not like I have been a perfect follower of all the laws either. Been bulled over a bunch of times but not once for no front plate and no one even mentioned it. If anything I was going to say that the special bracket is on back order due to the pandemic and supply chain crisis... You must live in a calified town man.
Yeah I get you some things are not as liberal so I'd rather not get pulled over, I like spending money on my car not trying to get out of jail hahaha been there done that
 
______________________________
Wait really? In Texas where everyone is about freedom and guns? no front plate since i got the car here in cali. And not like I have been a perfect follower of all the laws either. Been bulled over a bunch of times but not once for no front plate and no one even mentioned it. If anything I was going to say that the special bracket is on back order due to the pandemic and supply chain crisis... You must live in a calified town man.
some Departments are just out there to make money doesn't matter where they're located.
 
Went to Cars & Coffee this morning in the freezing cold! Great turn out though, and some damn nice photography. :)

253792320_10158131807922483_5505445051356793176_n.webp
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Thanks, will you please update your post after you get the hitch installed? I am not finding a lot of information out there for installing a hitch on the 2022 and I am tired of driving my suv, I'd much rather throw my e mtn bike on my Stinger so I can have fun not only on the trails but while getting to the trailhead too.
Well I got it and installed it last friday.

I uploaded these pictures to e-trailer, so maybe they'll show up there too.

The install was supposedly a 10 out of 10 or whatever scale they use. It's challenging. The step where you have to put a wire through the frame, thread a plate and bolt onto a coil, then pull it back through went fine. I was worried about that one. No one step in the video was crazy hard in my opinion, but it's very slow, a lot to take off and get at. It was also pretty chilly, I had a space-heater for the garage to help. Only had to go to the parts store once, to get a 10mm ratcheting wrench. For some reason I couldn't find a 10mm open-end even, but I had a variety of ratchets and sockets that worked just fine. It was about an 8 hour install. I had a break for lunch and I just tried to go slow and get it right. I did encounter a few problems on the install. The lower receiver (basically the big bar with the "drawtite" on it) was a little too wide for the mounting plates that install on the car frame. The bolts wouldn't go through. I had to dremel-out the inside of the holes with a grinder and remove some material. Also the rack exhaust-cut-out ends up very close to the exhaust, a sharp point. In looking at the video, it's obvious that while almost everything is mechanically the same on the 2022, the exhaust tips are different. This probably accounts for the difference and why I had to remove some material. This is something I'd file down ahead of time if doing it again. As it stands I removed some material, put some cushioning tape in (not seen). I'll be monitoring. The exhaust doesn't move much, but without removing material it was basically like 1-2mm away, super close and I could easily move it to make it bang against, thinking that centrifugal force in turns would probably do it. When I was removing the rear fascia, I also had to remove my mud-guards, so that caused some extra time, especially to put them back on, I had to take the wheels off. I have experience removing facia and had to do something real similar on my BMW to install a rack on it, so this wasn't all completely foreign to me. I also found that it was easier to just reach and disconnect the backup and bumper sensors rather than try to remove the plastic rivets holding the cables to the car-frame. I tried disconnecting them like in the video when it came time to re-connect the fascia, but I couldn't reconnect all of them after plugging in the sensors. I was able to reach up from under the car with the facia on and push them all back in though. When cutting the facia according to the template, I'd go maybe 4.25" up at least, the template calls for 4", but that was on the older non-diffuser facia, so this may be hanging down a little more. If you go just a little wider on the sides too, like an extra .25 each side, you'll have a little more room to straighten the rack (aligning it is one of the steps, but it also doesn't matter a whole lot as far as function). Didn't have to cut the heat-shield nearly as much as they did in the video, this was something that was fairly apparent even in the video, but I thought I'd check when it came time to doing it. Yep, I was able to retain all 6 fastener mounts and cut out significantly less than they did in the video.

Was able to do it on ramps. Was going to try and put the car on jack-stands on the rear by doing the jack-up-a-wheel trick, but that doesn't really work great, since the wheel just goes up into the well and compresses the spring, rather than lifts the car, so it's likely you'll max out the jack before you get it high enough to put some stands in. Ramps worked fine though, no issues with space. You need a deep 19mm/ 3/4" and a deep 17mm doesn't hurt either, since tightening these nuts down exposes a significant amount of bolt threads. A variety of socket extensions is nice to have, as well as a few different ratchets, like a small one for 10mm nuts/bolts and a larger one for big torque stuff. A universal joint too, the rear most upper-brace bolt (picture with the dremel arrows, bolt is visible just above the flat section) is tucked up there pretty good and you need something that will tighten at an angle to get it.

This was easier than installing those goddam swaybars, but a lot longer too.

I have a T2 rack and it works pretty well, except the "safety hook" loops on this rack are a bit annoying, they don't give you much room to tighten a rack-bolt. I could probably saw them off, definitely not necessary for a bike-rack receiver. My other car's receiver doesn't have this, it's intended for bike-racks only. Still, this works, it holds a rack just fine. I have my T2 tray (one) positioned in about the middle of the rack, but if I had two trays on, I'd be able to use the rear-most one and open the hatch all the way. As it stands, my 810mm+end-caps handlebar just ever so barely touches the hatch opening or closing, I should be able to bump the tray back just a little and it'll be totally free.

008.webp009.webp010.webp012.webp
 
Well I got it and installed it last friday.

I uploaded these pictures to e-trailer, so maybe they'll show up there too.

The install was supposedly a 10 out of 10 or whatever scale they use. It's challenging. The step where you have to put a wire through the frame, thread a plate and bolt onto a coil, then pull it back through went fine. I was worried about that one. No one step in the video was crazy hard in my opinion, but it's very slow, a lot to take off and get at. It was also pretty chilly, I had a space-heater for the garage to help. Only had to go to the parts store once, to get a 10mm ratcheting wrench. For some reason I couldn't find a 10mm open-end even, but I had a variety of ratchets and sockets that worked just fine. It was about an 8 hour install. I had a break for lunch and I just tried to go slow and get it right. I did encounter a few problems on the install. The lower receiver (basically the big bar with the "drawtite" on it) was a little too wide for the mounting plates that install on the car frame. The bolts wouldn't go through. I had to dremel-out the inside of the holes with a grinder and remove some material. Also the rack exhaust-cut-out ends up very close to the exhaust, a sharp point. In looking at the video, it's obvious that while almost everything is mechanically the same on the 2022, the exhaust tips are different. This probably accounts for the difference and why I had to remove some material. This is something I'd file down ahead of time if doing it again. As it stands I removed some material, put some cushioning tape in (not seen). I'll be monitoring. The exhaust doesn't move much, but without removing material it was basically like 1-2mm away, super close and I could easily move it to make it bang against, thinking that centrifugal force in turns would probably do it. When I was removing the rear fascia, I also had to remove my mud-guards, so that caused some extra time, especially to put them back on, I had to take the wheels off. I have experience removing facia and had to do something real similar on my BMW to install a rack on it, so this wasn't all completely foreign to me. I also found that it was easier to just reach and disconnect the backup and bumper sensors rather than try to remove the plastic rivets holding the cables to the car-frame. I tried disconnecting them like in the video when it came time to re-connect the fascia, but I couldn't reconnect all of them after plugging in the sensors. I was able to reach up from under the car with the facia on and push them all back in though. When cutting the facia according to the template, I'd go maybe 4.25" up at least, the template calls for 4", but that was on the older non-diffuser facia, so this may be hanging down a little more. If you go just a little wider on the sides too, like an extra .25 each side, you'll have a little more room to straighten the rack (aligning it is one of the steps, but it also doesn't matter a whole lot as far as function). Didn't have to cut the heat-shield nearly as much as they did in the video, this was something that was fairly apparent even in the video, but I thought I'd check when it came time to doing it. Yep, I was able to retain all 6 fastener mounts and cut out significantly less than they did in the video.

Was able to do it on ramps. Was going to try and put the car on jack-stands on the rear by doing the jack-up-a-wheel trick, but that doesn't really work great, since the wheel just goes up into the well and compresses the spring, rather than lifts the car, so it's likely you'll max out the jack before you get it high enough to put some stands in. Ramps worked fine though, no issues with space. You need a deep 19mm/ 3/4" and a deep 17mm doesn't hurt either, since tightening these nuts down exposes a significant amount of bolt threads. A variety of socket extensions is nice to have, as well as a few different ratchets, like a small one for 10mm nuts/bolts and a larger one for big torque stuff. A universal joint too, the rear most upper-brace bolt (picture with the dremel arrows, bolt is visible just above the flat section) is tucked up there pretty good and you need something that will tighten at an angle to get it.

This was easier than installing those goddam swaybars, but a lot longer too.

I have a T2 rack and it works pretty well, except the "safety hook" loops on this rack are a bit annoying, they don't give you much room to tighten a rack-bolt. I could probably saw them off, definitely not necessary for a bike-rack receiver. My other car's receiver doesn't have this, it's intended for bike-racks only. Still, this works, it holds a rack just fine. I have my T2 tray (one) positioned in about the middle of the rack, but if I had two trays on, I'd be able to use the rear-most one and open the hatch all the way. As it stands, my 810mm+end-caps handlebar just ever so barely touches the hatch opening or closing, I should be able to bump the tray back just a little and it'll be totally free.

View attachment 65001View attachment 65002View attachment 65003View attachment 65004
Hell of a write up! Nice job.

The 10mm strikes again
 
i cleaned it up real nice after someone tried to break into it Saturday night 2am. guy had on latex gloves.

this morning i noticed it did not switch automatic time even though daylight savings time is checked off.
i had to turn off GPS time and manually set it to the correct time.
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20211107-023654_Ring.webp
    Screenshot_20211107-023654_Ring.webp
    26.2 KB · Views: 36
Last edited:
i cleaned it up real nice after someone tried to break into it Saturday night 2am.

this morning i noticed it did not switch automatic time even though daylight savings time is checked off.
i had to turn off GPS time and manually set it to the correct time.
the daylight savings time switch is just that... it isn't automatic... you select it during dst and unselect it when it ends... it just changes the time back for you when you uncheck it rather than it "automatically" knowing when it ends... i know.. kinda silly. but it worked this same way on our bmws so i was ready for it.
 
the daylight savings time switch is just that... it isn't automatic... you select it during dst and unselect it when it ends... it just changes the time back for you when you uncheck it rather than it "automatically" knowing when it ends... i know.. kinda silly. but it worked this same way on our bmws so i was ready for it.
thanks for explaining that.
i added a screenshot of the guy in my first post.
 
______________________________
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
thanks for explaining that.
i added a screenshot of the guy in my first post.
grrr... i just hate people who have no respect for other peoples property ... scum
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
yep, super good person, thinking of inviting him to the next neighborhood family get together if i can find him.
make sure to show him all your important docs and where you store any valuables so that he doesn't have to make a mess of your house when he's looking for things... :laugh: :ninja:
 
______________________________
and "thats all, you say", unless you've ever been violated or had your space violated, i can tell you its very unnerving. he may not have bashed my windows in or stole my car thank god, but he took away my familys feeling of safety and comfort and sleep. and knowing some piece of shit had his hands on my super car that ive worked my ass off to get is very violating to me, so hence i cleaned it and made it mine again, mentally.
 
and "thats all, you say", unless you've ever been violated or had your space violated, i can tell you its very unnerving. he may not have bashed my windows in or stole my car thank god, but he took away my familys feeling of safety and comfort and sleep. and knowing some piece of shit had his hands on my super car that ive worked my ass off to get is very violating to me, so hence i cleaned it and made it mine again, mentally.
I totally understand that... we had our house broken into when we lived in chattanooga and we literally moved as soon as we could as we never felt "safe" again even though we knew how unlikely it was to happen again.... even now almost 10 years later that anxiety is there anytime we leave the house and leave our cats for longer than 30 min.... have so many cameras and alarm systems now....
 
and "thats all, you say", unless you've ever been violated or had your space violated, i can tell you its very unnerving.
"That's all" was in full-on sarcasm mode. We've been burgled, and yes, you never forget.
 
I totally understand that... we had our house broken into when we lived in chattanooga and we literally moved as soon as we could as we never felt "safe" again even though we knew how unlikely it was to happen again.... even now almost 10 years later that anxiety is there anytime we leave the house and leave our cats for longer than 30 min.... have so many cameras and alarm systems now....
Im fully gated, cameras and a pitbull. I had 2 rides broken into in Atl. years ago, at the same time no less. I do everything I can to not leave a car outside anymore.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Back
Top