Do It Yourself Kia Stinger Oil Change

[AusStinger]

14x1.5mm

 

[SIMONGUEY]

14x1.5mm

HAVE YOU SEEN THAT MISHIMOTO OIL DRAIN PLUG? WOULD THAT WORK THE SAME? NEVER SEEN ANYTHING LIKE THAT BEFORE. PS... sorry about caps

 

[AusStinger]

I have a Fumoto F106SX drain valve ( if that's what you're talking about ? ).
Haven't seen the Mishi plug.

 

[AusStinger]

Just saw one. Wouldn't touch it since it's alloy.
If you want a magnetic drain plug, go onto ebay and search "14x1.5 stainless magnetic "

 

[SIMONGUEY]

any chance you would like to give the kids at home a reason why stainless steel vs alloy? I appreciate it tho! will def look into a stainless steel plug instead!

 

[SIMONGUEY]

Just saw one. Wouldn't touch it since it's alloy.
If you want a magnetic drain plug, go onto ebay and search "14x1.5 stainless magnetic "

not sure why but I thought magnetic plugs use was to be able to take the oil drain plug off easily. not for it to catch metal in the oil lol...

 

[AusStinger]

any chance you would like to give the kids at home a reason why stainless steel vs alloy? I appreciate it tho! will def look into a stainless steel plug instead!

Just personal choice. Over the years I've seen a few alloy ones snap between the head and the shank.
Some people actually choose them for this exact reason ( snap instead of stripping threads in the sump if over-tightened ).

Also seen one or two alloy ones where the magnet has come out of the plug and is somewhere in the sump.

There are theories about dissimilar metals and expansion rates and such but I've just found that stainless steel is the most reliable.

And as for the purpose, as your engine runs ( and therefore wears ), small ferrous metal particles get washed into the sump by way of the oil and should either sit at the bottom of the sump until the next oil chance or be caught by the filter before being pumped through the oil system.

( BTW, those who use the pump extraction method ( via the dipstick tube ) don't allow that metal to flow out of the sump during an oil change. )

The magnet attracts and holds a large amount of the particles until cleaned off at the next oil change.

Again, many options, many opinions and many arguments but S/Steel with Neodymium magnet would be my choice if I were fitting one ( I'm not because I have a Fumoto drain valve fitted and do oil & filter changes every 5,000KM ).

 

[Novo 2.5]

Just finished my first oil change on my Stinger with the 2.5T. As an FYI for anyone that may need it, the oil filter housing uses a 24mm socket, engine has a 17mm drain plug, and there are six 10mm bolts and one plastic clip to hold the underbody panel on.

Oil filter kit Kia part #26350 2T000. My Kia dealership didn't have any when I stopped in, but luckily the Hyundai/Genesis dealer across the street had a couple. I'm pretty sure it's the same engine that's in the base G80 and maybe the GV70 so it worked out.

Can't believe this engine needs 6.75qts of oil! This was my first oil change on a car with a cartridge style filter and it wasn't too bad. It was a bit messier than I'd hoped for, but I'm sure next time will go smoother.

 

[JSolo]

^^24mm? Not 27mm?

 

[Novo 2.5]

^^24mm? Not 27mm?

Yeah 24mm. I went and picked up a 27mm yesterday hoping it would be the same as the 3.3TT engine, but got under the car today and found out that wasn't the case. I had a 24mm ratcheting wrench, but ended up running out to grab a 24mm socket.

 

[JSolo]

Ugh... I bought a 27mm too. I should have a 13/16 1/2" socket to get it off. Shouldn't need to be gorilla torqued back on any way. Might even have a 3/8" 13/16 socket too.

Annoying.. Wish they would stay consistent. Did you jack up the whole car or just the front end. My ramps don't quite clear so the entire car will be going up when I do mine.

How many miles on the car?

 

[Novo 2.5]

~1450miles when I did it. The oil looked surprisingly clean still, but I figured it wasn't a bad idea to change out anyways. The oil filter housing has 35N-m written on it (~26lb-ft I think) so it shouldn't be on there too tight.
I caved and ordered a set of race ramps to drive it up on now that half my cars are too low for my old set of ramps. With the cover underneath in place it didn't seem like they left any accessible jack points on the subframe. I'll have to look around a little more someday because otherwise tire rotations are going to be annoying.

 

[JSolo]

I did my oil change yesterday. ~1500 miles.

The oil was relatively clean but like you, figured it was a good idea to change given new engine breakin. Next change will be in about 3-4K, sometimes next spring. Mine took roughly 6.3 qts based on the amount remaining.

My method for getting the car up was to use this

Steel Floor Jack Cross Beam

Amazing deals on this Steel Service Jack Cross Beam at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

on my floor jack. Specifically I set it right near the factory jack points. The pads are quite wide (4.75" x 4.75") and will press against the plastic further away from the jack point. To compensate, I used a hockey puck centered against the seam and pad on either side. Keep jacking under desired height reached. Place jack stands at factory locations.

I don't have a low profile jack so I had to use another jack at the rear to raise the car ~2" to gain enough clearance. Rear wheel was not off the ground. My home made pinchweld adapter consists of 2 hockey pucks each. The 2nd is cut in half then screwed into the first creating ~3/8" gap. I place one of these between the factory jack point and jackstand.

Repeat the same on the other side minus the 2nd jack as the car is already raised.

Used an impact to get the wheels off once the car was in the air. To install, got the wheels somewhat tight with ratchet then lowered until wheels touched floor. Used torque wrench to set final lugnut torque before lowering that side completely.

This definitely is a clunky way of doing it and takes more time. One of these days I may order some low profile ramps.

I took this opportunity to take the wheels off to grease the hubs and remove/grease brake rotor screws (so they don't become seized). Got a chance to see the rear sway bar bushing bracket. Access is a nightmare on the driverside.

Re oil change, the biggest headache was that filter drain plug. Complete pita to get the new plug back in - very tight fit. Btw, returned my 24mm as 15/16" socket I had on hand fit tighter. Used the gudentite torque spec on both the drain bolt and filter. The latter had a mark from the factory in white. Final tightness way maybe a degree past that. Oil pan drain bolt was on tight.. very tight.

I also discovered a surprised on the bottom engine cover. I'll edit this post once I create a separate thread for it.

Broken clip found on bottom engine cover

Had to pull the bottom engine cover to get at oil filter/drain bolt. Discovered the following clip floating about the cover. It measures about 1/2" wide x 1/4" tall, maybe ~1/8" thick

stingerforum.org

 

[Yeti]

The engineer in me has to reply to these posts. If you are stripping the heads or shearing the oil drain plug you are way past the 30-35 foot pound mark. If you do not have a torque wrench, this is snug not goodentight. one hand on the socket wrench at the socket would give you 30 ft lbs. There is no pressure in the oil pan To force the drain plug out. There is no concern about cyclic loading.

The gasket is the seal so the plug threads are in an oil bath. Oxidation will not happen.

Regarding stainless steel, it has its uses. Threaded fittings is not one of them. For drain plugs, the only reason would be because it is shiny.
Thermal expansion for stainless is around 9 while steel is around 6. This may be an issue if you drain the oil hot. If shiny is important coat the threads with an anti gall lube like Swage Locks blue goop

 

[JSolo]

^^To me snug == goodentight. Been doing oil changes for decades. Have yet to strip a bolt out.

FWIW, tried to use a torque wrench on some banjo bolts once. At the specified torque, the bolt snapped. Replaced with another using standard ratchet. No issues. Go figure.

 

[AusStinger]

1. The engineer in me has to reply to these posts. If you are stripping the heads or shearing the oil drain plug you are way past the 30-35 foot pound mark. If you do not have a torque wrench, this is snug not goodentight. one hand on the socket wrench at the socket would give you 30 ft lbs. There is no pressure in the oil pan To force the drain plug out. There is no concern about cyclic loading.

2. The gasket is the seal so the plug threads are in an oil bath. Oxidation will not happen.

3. Regarding stainless steel, it has its uses. Threaded fittings is not one of them. For drain plugs, the only reason would be because it is shiny.
Thermal expansion for stainless is around 9 while steel is around 6. This may be an issue if you drain the oil hot. If shiny is important coat the threads with an anti gall lube like Swage Locks blue goop

Hi Yeti.

Let me start by saying, all valid arguments ! Inserting Pulp Fiction line here; Allow me to retort...

In my years as a mechanic I worked for / with everything from your local service dept up to pit crews on race teams and I've seen a lot stuff and what I've offered up is 'my opinion'. As I said in my prior post "Again, many options, many opinions and many arguments"

Firstly, a LOT of people DON'T do their own oil changes. They hand their cars over to the KIA (?) Service dept and think the KIA Expert does their service and expect that every nut & bolt is torqued to specs. All this is false 99% of the time. I could write a whole book on the truths of Service depts !

In your local service dept, all the mundane oil and filter work is usually handed over to the least experienced person or the knuckle dragger on the team. This person will do this mundane work all day and to make their life easier, will often use a 1/2" breaker bar and socket and NEVER a torque wrench. You can imagine how many sump plugs get stripped ( alloy plugs get snapped if fitted ), sump plug washer missing, or 2 installed etc.

1. The above should cover it. If you do your own work ( and KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING ) you will have few issues.
Alternatively, find a mechanic you can trust.

2. I said nothing about Oxidation. And I agree, there will be none in the majority of cases.
I said: There are theories about dissimilar metals and expansion rates and such. This was with regards to the magnet sometimes winding up in the sump when alloy plugs with magnets are installed.

3. Stainless is non-ferrous and therefore doesn't dissipate the strength of the magnet. Billet alloy is the same but as per point 2, isn't worth the risk IMO. I've never used anti gall lube on a sump plus and never will. As you said, the engine oil is the predominant lubrication and there's no need if the plug is tightened to the correct requirement.

If someone did want to use anti-gall on a stainless sump plug, I'd suggest Rocol ANTI-SEIZE Stainless. Love this stuff !

But as always, everyone is free to try everything themselves and learn from the experience gained.

 

[nhcowboy28]

Yeti vs AusStinger

Fight fight fight fight!!

 

[AusStinger]

Yeti vs AusStinger

Fight fight fight fight!!

lol, it's just a healthy discussion.

 

[Yeti]

Aus,
No problem. I was not addressing any post in particular, just comments I recalled while following the thread. Not sure if they were yours or someone elses.

A lot of what I read on some of these threads is so wrong. Some however are really good and absolutely correct and helpful.

With you about some mechanics either not caring or lacking knowledge. A few days ago the wife told me a tire on her car was losing air. Went to pull the tire to plug it and my impact failed. Took a 1/2 in breaker bar with a 3 foot cheater and my 190 pound body jumping up and down on it to remove the lug nuts. She just had ithe state inspection done the week before. They remove the wheels to check brakes. Think they used a 3/4 impact on full to get the lugs that tight. Could only imagine trying to use the cheap factory lug wrench from the car.

Regarding the rocol anti seize. Rocol makes great products. They are just hard to find in the states.

To bad I am retired. Spent months and months over the years all over Australia working for Alcoa. . Would have invited you for a beer.

I have probably forged more wheels and produced more billets and ingots than anyone on the thread. I had to stop reading any thread that talks about forged wheels or billet aluminum

yeti

 

[AusStinger]

Aus,
No problem. I was not addressing any post in particular, just comments I recalled while following the thread. Not sure if they were yours or someone elses.

A lot of what I read on some of these threads is so wrong. Some however are really good and absolutely correct and helpful.

With you about some mechanics either not caring or lacking knowledge. A few days ago the wife told me a tire on her car was losing air. Went to pull the tire to plug it and my impact failed. Took a 1/2 in breaker bar with a 3 foot cheater and my 190 pound body jumping up and down on it to remove the lug nuts. She just had ithe state inspection done the week before. They remove the wheels to check brakes. Think they used a 3/4 impact on full to get the lugs that tight. Could only imagine trying to use the cheap factory lug wrench from the car.

Regarding the rocol anti seize. Rocol makes great products. They are just hard to find in the states.

To bad I am retired. Spent months and months over the years all over Australia working for Alcoa. . Would have invited you for a beer.

I have probably forged more wheels and produced more billets and ingots than anyone on the thread. I had to stop reading any thread that talks about forged wheels or billet aluminum

yeti

No worries Yeti. And since you're an honorary Aussie, next time you drag your body down under (Sydney), first Scooner's on me!

Mmmmm billet alloy....