MBRP Exhaust

[K8 Stinger Store]

Is it all stainless steel? or do some people order the aluminized version as well?

I believe approximately 13 of them were for the stainless steel and 5 of them were for the aluminized version.

 

[GreySpector]

What size did you get for the exhaust tips and where did you get it from? From what I've seen, they are super weird in sizes when ordering.

Thanks!

63mmx89mm

 

[JVsGT]

What size did you get for the exhaust tips and where did you get it from? From what I've seen, they are super weird in sizes when ordering.

Thanks!

just in case you are wanting the oval ones, the size is 63X105. I ordered mine yesterday but exhaust should arrive today. I might get my exhaust installed this weekend and just have them remove the stock tips attached to the bumper. Then I can install the after market ones once they come in myself.

 

[GreySpector]

just in case you are wanting the oval ones, the size is 69X105. I ordered mine yesterday but exhaust should arrive today. I might get my exhaust installed this weekend and just have them remove the stock tips attached to the bumper. Then I can install the after market ones once they come in myself.

The outlet is 2.5" (63.5mm~), you may find those to be pretty large.

 

[JVsGT]

a

The outlet is 2.5" (63.5mm~), you may find those to be pretty large.

apologies, I meant 63x105....typo.

 

[Cyrus Duong]

The exhaust is ON! It's really nice. Low and not raspy if you don't/haven't replace the downpipes. Here is an album of my experience and install process. https://photos.google.com/share/AF1...?key=S3E3TTIyVzA2SXM0cUJFc2ZqemFWQzYtTlZSS2ZR

I recommend watching the videos/looking at the photos in the album if you need help during any particular part. But on a difficulty scale of 1-5. I'd place this at a 3 - right in the middle. The right tools and experience help, but it's nothing that can't be done by a novice or by yourself.

My experience is as follows.

Purchase/Shipping:
The package label was created last Friday (Oct 4) shipped Monday (Oct 7) arrived (Oct 10). Luckily my order was put in right as David received a shipment so I was not waiting long even though they have been back-ordered a bit I hear. The packaging is acceptable and the inflatable foam did its job, held everything in the box securely, but the staples holding the box shut were loose when it arrived. This is probably because UPS manhandled the box to my doorstep though...

Removing the stock exhaust (1-3 hours varying on experience and tools, took me 2):
I recommend using a lift if you have one or a friend/shop who might let you use it. The next best thing is 4 ramps. I had to settle with two ramps in the rear and jacks as high as they would go upfront. I would NOT recommend using ONLY jacks. There more than likely won't be enough wiggle space for you to do this install.

Start at the back and working forward, remove the stock mufflers. There are rubber mounts that the mufflers hang on as well as being attached to the resonators and a brace. The brace is 14mm nuts and the nuts holding the exhausts together are 19mm deep socket, you might want a breaker bar on hand or a big ratchet. For the rubber mounts - you can use a pry bar or channel locks to push them out (use some lube to not damage them/rip them). Do not remove them from the mounts completely. Just get them over the lip that holds them on. This way you can rest it on the mount while you work on the nuts. Once the nuts are off, remove the brace, and carefully lower each of the mufflers by un-attaching the rubber mount from the exhaust and pull towards the back of the vehicle enough to clear the bolts/lugs on the resonators. There should be enough room for you to pull/set it inside the exhaust tips to wiggle it out.

Next, remove the underbody brace. there are 3 nuts/bolts on each side that hold this brace in place. It's a rectangular piece that sits middle-ish of the resonators. 17mm, 12mm and 10mm sockets for these. Remove and set aside.

Finally, remove the resonators by again loosening the rubber mounts similar to before, they are on the outside, near the back of the resonator pipes. Then remove the nuts (19mm) holding them to the cats. Again carefully lower them. Voila, stock exhaust off.

Installing MBRP exhaust (I split this into removing the night before and installing the next morning. This was a little shorter since I was more comfortable didn't have to work at so many of the 19mm nuts:

First, put the clamps on the muffler pieces (on the place where the cuts/slots are) and tighten only enough so it does not move around (7/16th or 16mm(?)). And the two on the runner pipes, again where the slots/cuts are. Set them flush and tighten only so they do not move/shimmy as you are working the exhaust under the vehicle. This will be easier to do NOW rather than later as I found it difficult to slide them onto the larger pipes while working under the car.

Starting front to back attach the X/H pipe piece to the cats re-using 4 of the stock hardware 19mm nuts. Keep the crush gaskets (metal shim looking things where the pipes connect there). I did not find you need to use the washers since the stock exhaust didn't have any (but you can since they are included).
Next, connect the runners to the X/H pipe and attach the rubber mount to the pipe (use some oil/lube if need to). Do not tighten the clamps down yet.

Repeat for the mufflers. Careful with these.

After all the pieces are on their mounts and rotate, and shimmy the pipes/pieces around to get them settled or level how you wish. Then tighten the clamps (7/16th).

Finally, put the brace/plate back on that sits in the middle of the vehicle with the three oddball nut sizes.

My final thoughts: In total took me about 4 hours to do the install. I think it is a high-value exhaust. Little smaller/lighter muffler, but less restrictive. The sound on cold start-up is not too much louder than stock IMO. Maybe only 1.5-2x as loud. In the cabin at idle to around 1.7k RPM there is a bit of drone. Not something that bothers me too much but it is certainly there. I think getting exhaust tips will eliminate this because from 2k-redline there is no drone, and seems to just be resonating under the vehicle/trunk as said before by other users.

However, driving around town it is much louder inside the vehicle now and much more in-line with the personality/how I want my car to sound. Reminds me a lot of my friends 370z NISMO inside the cabin or the old Caymans. Has a grunt/grumble/mean-ness to it now.

My favorite part of this exhaust is when revving the car out. From 3k+, the car sounds phenomenal and I love revving it out. No longer do you get the grumble down low only for it to gasp for air and disappear when you are accelerating hard. It roars like a tiger as you climb up the tach.

Overall for the money, this is, in my opinion, a good way to significantly increase the sound output for a vehicle on the cheap. If you only want a small increase in sound but keep the same tonality, maybe look into the secondary cat delete/downpipes. But if you want something completely different this has my vote. It's cheap, good sounding, and relatively easy to put together and install.

May be placebo, but I feel like the car is much more responsive and the JB4 is happier too. So for whatever that is worth. I don't have an AWD dyno nearby to test at though. I'll try to capture some videos of the sound more on the road but will need a passenger for that.

Disclaimer: I take no responsibility for injury or damages caused by following my instructions/experience. It is up to the end-user to know what they are doing and ensure the install and fitment is correct and they take the necessary precautions to do it safely.

 

[cncBilly]

The exhaust is ON! It's really nice. Low and not raspy if you don't/haven't replace the downpipes. Here is an album of my experience and install process. https://photos.google.com/share/AF1...?key=S3E3TTIyVzA2SXM0cUJFc2ZqemFWQzYtTlZSS2ZR

I recommend watching the videos/looking at the photos in the album if you need help during any particular part. But on a difficulty scale of 1-5. I'd place this at a 3 - right in the middle. The right tools and experience help, but it's nothing that can't be done by a novice or by yourself.

My experience is as follows.

Purchase/Shipping:
The package label was created last Friday (Oct 4) shipped Monday (Oct 7) arrived (Oct 10). Luckily my order was put in right as David received a shipment so I was not waiting long even though they have been back-ordered a bit I hear. The packaging is acceptable and the inflatable foam did its job, held everything in the box securely, but the staples holding the box shut were loose when it arrived. This is probably because UPS manhandled the box to my doorstep though...

Removing the stock exhaust (1-3 hours varying on experience and tools, took me 2):
I recommend using a lift if you have one or a friend/shop who might let you use it. The next best thing is 4 ramps. I had to settle with two ramps in the rear and jacks as high as they would go upfront. I would NOT recommend using ONLY jacks. There more than likely won't be enough wiggle space for you to do this install.

Start at the back and working forward, remove the stock mufflers. There are rubber mounts that the mufflers hang on as well as being attached to the resonators and a brace. The brace is 14mm nuts and the nuts holding the exhausts together are 19mm deep socket, you might want a breaker bar on hand or a big ratchet. For the rubber mounts - you can use a pry bar or channel locks to push them out (use some lube to not damage them/rip them). Do not remove them from the mounts completely. Just get them over the lip that holds them on. This way you can rest it on the mount while you work on the nuts. Once the nuts are off, remove the brace, and carefully lower each of the mufflers by un-attaching the rubber mount from the exhaust and pull towards the back of the vehicle enough to clear the bolts/lugs on the resonators. There should be enough room for you to pull/set it inside the exhaust tips to wiggle it out.

Next, remove the underbody brace. there are 3 nuts/bolts on each side that hold this brace in place. It's a rectangular piece that sits middle-ish of the resonators. 17mm, 12mm and 10mm sockets for these. Remove and set aside.

Finally, remove the resonators by again loosening the rubber mounts similar to before, they are on the outside, near the back of the resonator pipes. Then remove the nuts (19mm) holding them to the cats. Again carefully lower them. Voila, stock exhaust off.

Installing MBRP exhaust (I split this into removing the night before and installing the next morning. This was a little shorter since I was more comfortable didn't have to work at so many of the 19mm nuts:

First, put the clamps on the muffler pieces (on the place where the cuts/slots are) and tighten only enough so it does not move around (7/16th or 16mm(?)). And the two on the runner pipes, again where the slots/cuts are. Set them flush and tighten only so they do not move/shimmy as you are working the exhaust under the vehicle. This will be easier to do NOW rather than later as I found it difficult to slide them onto the larger pipes while working under the car.

Starting front to back attach the X/H pipe piece to the cats re-using 4 of the stock hardware 19mm nuts. Keep the crush gaskets (metal shim looking things where the pipes connect there). I did not find you need to use the washers since the stock exhaust didn't have any (but you can since they are included).
Next, connect the runners to the X/H pipe and attach the rubber mount to the pipe (use some oil/lube if need to). Do not tighten the clamps down yet.

Repeat for the mufflers. Careful with these.

After all the pieces are on their mounts and rotate, and shimmy the pipes/pieces around to get them settled or level how you wish. Then tighten the clamps (7/16th).

Finally, put the brace/plate back on that sits in the middle of the vehicle with the three oddball nut sizes.

My final thoughts: In total took me about 4 hours to do the install. I think it is a high-value exhaust. Little smaller/lighter muffler, but less restrictive. The sound on cold start-up is not too much louder than stock IMO. Maybe only 1.5-2x as loud. In the cabin at idle to around 1.7k RPM there is a bit of drone. Not something that bothers me too much but it is certainly there. I think getting exhaust tips will eliminate this because from 2k-redline there is no drone, and seems to just be resonating under the vehicle/trunk as said before by other users.

However, driving around town it is much louder inside the vehicle now and much more in-line with the personality/how I want my car to sound. Reminds me a lot of my friends 370z NISMO inside the cabin or the old Caymans. Has a grunt/grumble/mean-ness to it now.

My favorite part of this exhaust is when revving the car out. From 3k+, the car sounds phenomenal and I love revving it out. No longer do you get the grumble down low only for it to gasp for air and disappear when you are accelerating hard. It roars like a tiger as you climb up the tach.

Overall for the money, this is, in my opinion, a good way to significantly increase the sound output for a vehicle on the cheap. If you only want a small increase in sound but keep the same tonality, maybe look into the secondary cat delete/downpipes. But if you want something completely different this has my vote. It's cheap, good sounding, and relatively easy to put together and install.

May be placebo, but I feel like the car is much more responsive and the JB4 is happier too. So for whatever that is worth. I don't have an AWD dyno nearby to test at though. I'll try to capture some videos of the sound more on the road but will need a passenger for that.

Disclaimer: I take no responsibility for injury or damages caused by following my instructions/experience. It is up to the end-user to know what they are doing and ensure the install and fitment is correct and they take the necessary precautions to do it safely.

Excellent post thx for taking the time.

 

[StingerLover]

The exhaust is ON! It's really nice. Low and not raspy if you don't/haven't replace the downpipes. Here is an album of my experience and install process. https://photos.google.com/share/AF1...?key=S3E3TTIyVzA2SXM0cUJFc2ZqemFWQzYtTlZSS2ZR

I recommend watching the videos/looking at the photos in the album if you need help during any particular part. But on a difficulty scale of 1-5. I'd place this at a 3 - right in the middle. The right tools and experience help, but it's nothing that can't be done by a novice or by yourself.

My experience is as follows.

Purchase/Shipping:
The package label was created last Friday (Oct 4) shipped Monday (Oct 7) arrived (Oct 10). Luckily my order was put in right as David received a shipment so I was not waiting long even though they have been back-ordered a bit I hear. The packaging is acceptable and the inflatable foam did its job, held everything in the box securely, but the staples holding the box shut were loose when it arrived. This is probably because UPS manhandled the box to my doorstep though...

Removing the stock exhaust (1-3 hours varying on experience and tools, took me 2):
I recommend using a lift if you have one or a friend/shop who might let you use it. The next best thing is 4 ramps. I had to settle with two ramps in the rear and jacks as high as they would go upfront. I would NOT recommend using ONLY jacks. There more than likely won't be enough wiggle space for you to do this install.

Start at the back and working forward, remove the stock mufflers. There are rubber mounts that the mufflers hang on as well as being attached to the resonators and a brace. The brace is 14mm nuts and the nuts holding the exhausts together are 19mm deep socket, you might want a breaker bar on hand or a big ratchet. For the rubber mounts - you can use a pry bar or channel locks to push them out (use some lube to not damage them/rip them). Do not remove them from the mounts completely. Just get them over the lip that holds them on. This way you can rest it on the mount while you work on the nuts. Once the nuts are off, remove the brace, and carefully lower each of the mufflers by un-attaching the rubber mount from the exhaust and pull towards the back of the vehicle enough to clear the bolts/lugs on the resonators. There should be enough room for you to pull/set it inside the exhaust tips to wiggle it out.

Next, remove the underbody brace. there are 3 nuts/bolts on each side that hold this brace in place. It's a rectangular piece that sits middle-ish of the resonators. 17mm, 12mm and 10mm sockets for these. Remove and set aside.

Finally, remove the resonators by again loosening the rubber mounts similar to before, they are on the outside, near the back of the resonator pipes. Then remove the nuts (19mm) holding them to the cats. Again carefully lower them. Voila, stock exhaust off.

Installing MBRP exhaust (I split this into removing the night before and installing the next morning. This was a little shorter since I was more comfortable didn't have to work at so many of the 19mm nuts:

First, put the clamps on the muffler pieces (on the place where the cuts/slots are) and tighten only enough so it does not move around (7/16th or 16mm(?)). And the two on the runner pipes, again where the slots/cuts are. Set them flush and tighten only so they do not move/shimmy as you are working the exhaust under the vehicle. This will be easier to do NOW rather than later as I found it difficult to slide them onto the larger pipes while working under the car.

Starting front to back attach the X/H pipe piece to the cats re-using 4 of the stock hardware 19mm nuts. Keep the crush gaskets (metal shim looking things where the pipes connect there). I did not find you need to use the washers since the stock exhaust didn't have any (but you can since they are included).
Next, connect the runners to the X/H pipe and attach the rubber mount to the pipe (use some oil/lube if need to). Do not tighten the clamps down yet.

Repeat for the mufflers. Careful with these.

After all the pieces are on their mounts and rotate, and shimmy the pipes/pieces around to get them settled or level how you wish. Then tighten the clamps (7/16th).

Finally, put the brace/plate back on that sits in the middle of the vehicle with the three oddball nut sizes.

My final thoughts: In total took me about 4 hours to do the install. I think it is a high-value exhaust. Little smaller/lighter muffler, but less restrictive. The sound on cold start-up is not too much louder than stock IMO. Maybe only 1.5-2x as loud. In the cabin at idle to around 1.7k RPM there is a bit of drone. Not something that bothers me too much but it is certainly there. I think getting exhaust tips will eliminate this because from 2k-redline there is no drone, and seems to just be resonating under the vehicle/trunk as said before by other users.

However, driving around town it is much louder inside the vehicle now and much more in-line with the personality/how I want my car to sound. Reminds me a lot of my friends 370z NISMO inside the cabin or the old Caymans. Has a grunt/grumble/mean-ness to it now.

My favorite part of this exhaust is when revving the car out. From 3k+, the car sounds phenomenal and I love revving it out. No longer do you get the grumble down low only for it to gasp for air and disappear when you are accelerating hard. It roars like a tiger as you climb up the tach.

Overall for the money, this is, in my opinion, a good way to significantly increase the sound output for a vehicle on the cheap. If you only want a small increase in sound but keep the same tonality, maybe look into the secondary cat delete/downpipes. But if you want something completely different this has my vote. It's cheap, good sounding, and relatively easy to put together and install.

May be placebo, but I feel like the car is much more responsive and the JB4 is happier too. So for whatever that is worth. I don't have an AWD dyno nearby to test at though. I'll try to capture some videos of the sound more on the road but will need a passenger for that.

Disclaimer: I take no responsibility for injury or damages caused by following my instructions/experience. It is up to the end-user to know what they are doing and ensure the install and fitment is correct and they take the necessary precautions to do it safely.

Perfect timing. I'm putting mine on tomorrow morning, Thanks!

 

[Gtecko]

@Cyrus Duong well done, reading your notes, I could see myself doing those steps again , very well written !!
I must agree with Cyrus that doing this on jacks wouldn't be a good idea as you will need to move the pipes in and out , sometimes with some force and you wouldn't want to car to move...

I am almost two months in and you can tell the smoke as settled inside the pipes now, not a bag thing, still loving the sound overall.
I have time this weekend so if whether permits, I will do some highway videos !

 

[HerbieTheCar]

@Cyrus Duong What is that thing above your dash that's clamped to the windshield? Is it a dash cam?

 

[JVsGT]

The exhaust is ON! It's really nice. Low and not raspy if you don't/haven't replace the downpipes. Here is an album of my experience and install process. https://photos.google.com/share/AF1...?key=S3E3TTIyVzA2SXM0cUJFc2ZqemFWQzYtTlZSS2ZR

I recommend watching the videos/looking at the photos in the album if you need help during any particular part. But on a difficulty scale of 1-5. I'd place this at a 3 - right in the middle. The right tools and experience help, but it's nothing that can't be done by a novice or by yourself.

My experience is as follows.

Purchase/Shipping:
The package label was created last Friday (Oct 4) shipped Monday (Oct 7) arrived (Oct 10). Luckily my order was put in right as David received a shipment so I was not waiting long even though they have been back-ordered a bit I hear. The packaging is acceptable and the inflatable foam did its job, held everything in the box securely, but the staples holding the box shut were loose when it arrived. This is probably because UPS manhandled the box to my doorstep though...

Removing the stock exhaust (1-3 hours varying on experience and tools, took me 2):
I recommend using a lift if you have one or a friend/shop who might let you use it. The next best thing is 4 ramps. I had to settle with two ramps in the rear and jacks as high as they would go upfront. I would NOT recommend using ONLY jacks. There more than likely won't be enough wiggle space for you to do this install.

Start at the back and working forward, remove the stock mufflers. There are rubber mounts that the mufflers hang on as well as being attached to the resonators and a brace. The brace is 14mm nuts and the nuts holding the exhausts together are 19mm deep socket, you might want a breaker bar on hand or a big ratchet. For the rubber mounts - you can use a pry bar or channel locks to push them out (use some lube to not damage them/rip them). Do not remove them from the mounts completely. Just get them over the lip that holds them on. This way you can rest it on the mount while you work on the nuts. Once the nuts are off, remove the brace, and carefully lower each of the mufflers by un-attaching the rubber mount from the exhaust and pull towards the back of the vehicle enough to clear the bolts/lugs on the resonators. There should be enough room for you to pull/set it inside the exhaust tips to wiggle it out.

Next, remove the underbody brace. there are 3 nuts/bolts on each side that hold this brace in place. It's a rectangular piece that sits middle-ish of the resonators. 17mm, 12mm and 10mm sockets for these. Remove and set aside.

Finally, remove the resonators by again loosening the rubber mounts similar to before, they are on the outside, near the back of the resonator pipes. Then remove the nuts (19mm) holding them to the cats. Again carefully lower them. Voila, stock exhaust off.

Installing MBRP exhaust (I split this into removing the night before and installing the next morning. This was a little shorter since I was more comfortable didn't have to work at so many of the 19mm nuts:

First, put the clamps on the muffler pieces (on the place where the cuts/slots are) and tighten only enough so it does not move around (7/16th or 16mm(?)). And the two on the runner pipes, again where the slots/cuts are. Set them flush and tighten only so they do not move/shimmy as you are working the exhaust under the vehicle. This will be easier to do NOW rather than later as I found it difficult to slide them onto the larger pipes while working under the car.

Starting front to back attach the X/H pipe piece to the cats re-using 4 of the stock hardware 19mm nuts. Keep the crush gaskets (metal shim looking things where the pipes connect there). I did not find you need to use the washers since the stock exhaust didn't have any (but you can since they are included).
Next, connect the runners to the X/H pipe and attach the rubber mount to the pipe (use some oil/lube if need to). Do not tighten the clamps down yet.

Repeat for the mufflers. Careful with these.

After all the pieces are on their mounts and rotate, and shimmy the pipes/pieces around to get them settled or level how you wish. Then tighten the clamps (7/16th).

Finally, put the brace/plate back on that sits in the middle of the vehicle with the three oddball nut sizes.

My final thoughts: In total took me about 4 hours to do the install. I think it is a high-value exhaust. Little smaller/lighter muffler, but less restrictive. The sound on cold start-up is not too much louder than stock IMO. Maybe only 1.5-2x as loud. In the cabin at idle to around 1.7k RPM there is a bit of drone. Not something that bothers me too much but it is certainly there. I think getting exhaust tips will eliminate this because from 2k-redline there is no drone, and seems to just be resonating under the vehicle/trunk as said before by other users.

However, driving around town it is much louder inside the vehicle now and much more in-line with the personality/how I want my car to sound. Reminds me a lot of my friends 370z NISMO inside the cabin or the old Caymans. Has a grunt/grumble/mean-ness to it now.

My favorite part of this exhaust is when revving the car out. From 3k+, the car sounds phenomenal and I love revving it out. No longer do you get the grumble down low only for it to gasp for air and disappear when you are accelerating hard. It roars like a tiger as you climb up the tach.

Overall for the money, this is, in my opinion, a good way to significantly increase the sound output for a vehicle on the cheap. If you only want a small increase in sound but keep the same tonality, maybe look into the secondary cat delete/downpipes. But if you want something completely different this has my vote. It's cheap, good sounding, and relatively easy to put together and install.

May be placebo, but I feel like the car is much more responsive and the JB4 is happier too. So for whatever that is worth. I don't have an AWD dyno nearby to test at though. I'll try to capture some videos of the sound more on the road but will need a passenger for that.

Disclaimer: I take no responsibility for injury or damages caused by following my instructions/experience. It is up to the end-user to know what they are doing and ensure the install and fitment is correct and they take the necessary precautions to do it safely.

Great information. I received my exhaust yesterday but since I have no jack stands/ramps, I'm going to take it to my local exhaust guy to have him put it on. I was wondering if I should wait till my exhaust tips come in though. Someone said that you need to remove the exhaust to take the stock tips off the bumper. I just don't want to do things twice. If that's the case, I guess I can always have him remove the stock tips when he installs the exhaust and I can simply install the after market tips myself once they come in? Can you confirm the removal of the stock tips has to happen with the exhaust off?

 

[GreySpector]

Great information. I received my exhaust yesterday but since I have no jack stands/ramps, I'm going to take it to my local exhaust guy to have him put it on. I was wondering if I should wait till my exhaust tips come in though. Someone said that you need to remove the exhaust to take the stock tips off the bumper. I just don't want to do things twice. If that's the case, I guess I can always have him remove the stock tips when he installs the exhaust and I can simply install the after market tips myself once they come in? Can you confirm the removal of the stock tips has to happen with the exhaust off?

It does.

 

[Cyrus Duong]

@Cyrus Duong What is that thing above your dash that's clamped to the windshield? Is it a dash cam?

Radar detector. Uniden DFR7

 

[itguy61]

Great information. I received my exhaust yesterday but since I have no jack stands/ramps, I'm going to take it to my local exhaust guy to have him put it on. I was wondering if I should wait till my exhaust tips come in though. Someone said that you need to remove the exhaust to take the stock tips off the bumper. I just don't want to do things twice. If that's the case, I guess I can always have him remove the stock tips when he installs the exhaust and I can simply install the after market tips myself once they come in? Can you confirm the removal of the stock tips has to happen with the exhaust off?

Finally doing some mods huh? Your old girl is all modded up and she is liking it!

 

[General_Vodka]

Radar detector. Uniden DFR7

Nice I have the R3. Love the GPS. Sorry didn't mean to go off topic please don't ban me. Btw nice exhaust, tho Borla sounds better in my opinion

 

[Cyrus Duong]

Nice I have the R3. Love the GPS. Sorry didn't mean to go off topic please don't ban me. Btw nice exhaust, tho Borla sounds better in my opinion

Yeah kinda wish I had GPS features but I hear blind-spot monitoring in cars triggers the detectors more now so it'll still go off randomly so didn't shell out the extra moola. Borla is nice, just too loud and little raspy for me. But some people like that and I respect that.

 

[General_Vodka]

Yeah kinda wish I had GPS features but I hear blind-spot monitoring in cars triggers the detectors more now so it'll still go off randomly so didn't shell out the extra moola. Borla is nice, just too loud and little raspy for me. But some people like that and I respect that.

Oh Lord don't get me STARTED ON THOSE HONDAS AND ACURAS AND PACIFICAS AND THEIR CHEAP LEAKING RADAR UNITS REEEEEEE. CRV detector for sure. Anyways rants over, they updated the software and now false alerts happen a lot less. GPS = so worth it tho.

 

[JVsGT]

Finally doing some mods huh? Your old girl is all modded up and she is liking it!

Yup, finally. Only things I've done to this one is install dashcam, rebadge and ceramic coat. I've got new plugs, intakes, rear sway, MBRP exhaust, ceramic front brake pads and JB4 sitting in the garage. Just waiting on billet braces, catch can and exhaust tips to come. Gonna be a whole different car soon.

 

[Cyrus Duong]

Oh Lord don't get me STARTED ON THOSE HONDAS AND ACURAS AND PACIFICAS AND THEIR CHEAP LEAKING RADAR UNITS REEEEEEE. CRV detector for sure. Anyways rants over, they updated the software and now false alerts happen a lot less. GPS = so worth it tho.

Ah maybe I should update the firmware on mine good point.

 

[StingerLover]

The exhaust is ON! It's really nice. Low and not raspy if you don't/haven't replace the downpipes. Here is an album of my experience and install process. https://photos.google.com/share/AF1...?key=S3E3TTIyVzA2SXM0cUJFc2ZqemFWQzYtTlZSS2ZR

I recommend watching the videos/looking at the photos in the album if you need help during any particular part. But on a difficulty scale of 1-5. I'd place this at a 3 - right in the middle. The right tools and experience help, but it's nothing that can't be done by a novice or by yourself.

My experience is as follows.

Purchase/Shipping:
The package label was created last Friday (Oct 4) shipped Monday (Oct 7) arrived (Oct 10). Luckily my order was put in right as David received a shipment so I was not waiting long even though they have been back-ordered a bit I hear. The packaging is acceptable and the inflatable foam did its job, held everything in the box securely, but the staples holding the box shut were loose when it arrived. This is probably because UPS manhandled the box to my doorstep though...

Removing the stock exhaust (1-3 hours varying on experience and tools, took me 2):
I recommend using a lift if you have one or a friend/shop who might let you use it. The next best thing is 4 ramps. I had to settle with two ramps in the rear and jacks as high as they would go upfront. I would NOT recommend using ONLY jacks. There more than likely won't be enough wiggle space for you to do this install.

Start at the back and working forward, remove the stock mufflers. There are rubber mounts that the mufflers hang on as well as being attached to the resonators and a brace. The brace is 14mm nuts and the nuts holding the exhausts together are 19mm deep socket, you might want a breaker bar on hand or a big ratchet. For the rubber mounts - you can use a pry bar or channel locks to push them out (use some lube to not damage them/rip them). Do not remove them from the mounts completely. Just get them over the lip that holds them on. This way you can rest it on the mount while you work on the nuts. Once the nuts are off, remove the brace, and carefully lower each of the mufflers by un-attaching the rubber mount from the exhaust and pull towards the back of the vehicle enough to clear the bolts/lugs on the resonators. There should be enough room for you to pull/set it inside the exhaust tips to wiggle it out.

Next, remove the underbody brace. there are 3 nuts/bolts on each side that hold this brace in place. It's a rectangular piece that sits middle-ish of the resonators. 17mm, 12mm and 10mm sockets for these. Remove and set aside.

Finally, remove the resonators by again loosening the rubber mounts similar to before, they are on the outside, near the back of the resonator pipes. Then remove the nuts (19mm) holding them to the cats. Again carefully lower them. Voila, stock exhaust off.

Installing MBRP exhaust (I split this into removing the night before and installing the next morning. This was a little shorter since I was more comfortable didn't have to work at so many of the 19mm nuts:

First, put the clamps on the muffler pieces (on the place where the cuts/slots are) and tighten only enough so it does not move around (7/16th or 16mm(?)). And the two on the runner pipes, again where the slots/cuts are. Set them flush and tighten only so they do not move/shimmy as you are working the exhaust under the vehicle. This will be easier to do NOW rather than later as I found it difficult to slide them onto the larger pipes while working under the car.

Starting front to back attach the X/H pipe piece to the cats re-using 4 of the stock hardware 19mm nuts. Keep the crush gaskets (metal shim looking things where the pipes connect there). I did not find you need to use the washers since the stock exhaust didn't have any (but you can since they are included).
Next, connect the runners to the X/H pipe and attach the rubber mount to the pipe (use some oil/lube if need to). Do not tighten the clamps down yet.

Repeat for the mufflers. Careful with these.

After all the pieces are on their mounts and rotate, and shimmy the pipes/pieces around to get them settled or level how you wish. Then tighten the clamps (7/16th).

Finally, put the brace/plate back on that sits in the middle of the vehicle with the three oddball nut sizes.

My final thoughts: In total took me about 4 hours to do the install. I think it is a high-value exhaust. Little smaller/lighter muffler, but less restrictive. The sound on cold start-up is not too much louder than stock IMO. Maybe only 1.5-2x as loud. In the cabin at idle to around 1.7k RPM there is a bit of drone. Not something that bothers me too much but it is certainly there. I think getting exhaust tips will eliminate this because from 2k-redline there is no drone, and seems to just be resonating under the vehicle/trunk as said before by other users.

However, driving around town it is much louder inside the vehicle now and much more in-line with the personality/how I want my car to sound. Reminds me a lot of my friends 370z NISMO inside the cabin or the old Caymans. Has a grunt/grumble/mean-ness to it now.

My favorite part of this exhaust is when revving the car out. From 3k+, the car sounds phenomenal and I love revving it out. No longer do you get the grumble down low only for it to gasp for air and disappear when you are accelerating hard. It roars like a tiger as you climb up the tach.

Overall for the money, this is, in my opinion, a good way to significantly increase the sound output for a vehicle on the cheap. If you only want a small increase in sound but keep the same tonality, maybe look into the secondary cat delete/downpipes. But if you want something completely different this has my vote. It's cheap, good sounding, and relatively easy to put together and install.

May be placebo, but I feel like the car is much more responsive and the JB4 is happier too. So for whatever that is worth. I don't have an AWD dyno nearby to test at though. I'll try to capture some videos of the sound more on the road but will need a passenger for that.

Disclaimer: I take no responsibility for injury or damages caused by following my instructions/experience. It is up to the end-user to know what they are doing and ensure the install and fitment is correct and they take the necessary precautions to do it safely.

Where did you place your jack to get the jack stands under the jack point?