Jb4 Fuel wires

[Terry@BMS]

Here is a quick log, I see the fuel en numbers at around lines 1500+. Not completely WOT, but just a quick pull from a light on the ramp. I would still like to know what to look for when looking at fuel trims from bank to bank, how should the numbers look like if fuel wires are working, and does having fuel wires allow you to make more boost?

You're going to have to go FULL THROTTLE to evaluate them properly.

 

[khmer07]

You're going to have to go FULL THROTTLE to evaluate them properly.

The intakes sound normal, I think it was just rainy yesterday which drowned out some of the intake noise for me.
I did a few quick pulls, it feels really strong and I'm not feeling the oscillations and surging on and off that I was before. Idk if that's just coincidence, but something I've noticed. Maybe because of the newer v10 firmware?

 

[khmer07]

You're going to have to go FULL THROTTLE to evaluate them properly.

Heres a quick open street 0-60. Looks like 96% pedal. Got 4.9 0-60 on the dragy, wasnt fully comfortable going pedal to the metal lol. Could you be able to tell if fuel wires are working from this?

 

[Terry@BMS]

Sorry, not really. Just save it for next time you're racing and can capture higher speed full throttle runs.

 

[khmer07]

Sorry, not really. Just save it for next time you're racing and can capture higher speed full throttle runs.

Dang, is it really that hard to tell if the fuel wires are working? Good thing it's the weekend, I will try to do a 0-80 pull on the highway after work.

 

[ecko04]

Dang, is it really that hard to tell if the fuel wires are working? Good thing it's the weekend, I will try to do a 0-80 pull on the highway after work.

You don’t need a 0-80 pull, you just need ~10-20 sec at WOT. Not sure what you’re fearful about, if anything you’ll just go rich.

Once again, fuel wires are only active during WOT to lean out the AFR. If you’re not going WOT fuel wires are irrelevant/unnecessary.

 

[StungBlueGT2]

I couldn’t disagree more with this comment. What is more complicated about plugging a connector in?

It would seem to be infinitely easier than using plastic Posi-Taps which may cross thread and if overtightened, which is easy to do, reforms the connecting base.

Also when removed several times jeopardizes the Posi-Tap’s structural integrity, all of which are potential points of failure and are removed by the extension harness and that’s before we get into mistakenly dropping a Posi-Tap into the ether that is the engine bay, so once again, what’s complicated about plugging in a harness?

I apologize if you took offense and nothing personal. I applaud you from trying to make a better mousetrap, and admit a true “plug & play” kit would be useful to many.

However, I was simply stating the same @Terry@BMS explained above. “More wiring=more potential problem areas”.

And it’s not “plugging a connector in” that’s complicated, it’s all the splicing, soldering, taping and heat shrinking multiple wires that’s much more complicated. Unless other users are familiar with splicing, soldering, etc. this is significantly more complicated than screwing on two simple positaps... Also, how would anyone else know if they followed all those steps perfectly and the device would work 100% correctly? Exactly like the the OP stated, "How do I know that the fuel wires are on and working correctly?"

I understand that once the “plug & play" kit is made it will be easier to just use the connectors. I just saw the aggravation one user was having, but unfortunately people knowledgeable with the normal JB4 install couldnt help him because this kit was a custom device not made by BMS.

Unless you're planning on selling pre-made kits, you’re just opening a can of worms and potential problems for anyone copying your instructions. I know your intentions were good, and users following your guide are doing so at their own risk. I just hope you know what you are getting yourself into and that you're available 24/7 for customer service, like Terry is, to help with all the similar questions people will have...

Again nothing against you or this idea, I just know how hard Terry works to help people with his products and until he produces his own version you will have to take lead on all the questions and headaches that come from your suggestion. I wish you the best and truly hope this helps more people than it creates problem for.

 

[khmer07]

You don’t need a 0-80 pull, you just need ~10-20 sec at WOT. Not sure what you’re fearful about, if anything you’ll just go rich.

Once again, fuel wires are only active during WOT to lean out the AFR. If you’re not going WOT fuel wires are irrelevant/unnecessary.

Oh really, I thought fuel wires would help with power everywhere. I'm just hesitant because of 5-0 pulling me over Haha. I dont know of a good open stretch of road to do long pulls on.

 

[Manaz]

Oh really, I thought fuel wires would help with power everywhere. I'm just hesitant because of 5-0 pulling me over Haha. I dont know of a good open stretch of road to do long pulls on.

Then you don't have a problem, because even if they are 100% connected, they're not doing anything for you until you're at WOT. If you never see WOT, fuel wires aren't helping you.

Surely it's possible to pull over to the side of a freeway, slow down, then punch it back to freeway speeds?

 

[ecko04]

Your apology falls on deaf ears when you continue to parrot inadequate information.

And it’s not “plugging a connector in” that’s complicated, it’s all the splicing, soldering, taping and heat shrinking multiple wires that’s much more complicated. Unless other users are familiar with splicing, soldering, etc. this is significantly more complicated than screwing on two simple positaps... Also, how would anyone else know if they followed all those steps perfectly and the device would work 100% correctly? Exactly like the the OP stated, "How do I know that the fuel wires are on and working correctly?"

This alone lets me know you didn’t read the actual thread at all. You looked at the initial OP and went from there. If you actually read the thread, and subsequent posts where I cleaned up the install, you’d see just how simple it is and it’s nothing like you’re making it out to be.

And for the record, it’s 1 wire. Connecting a radar detector or dash cam is more involved.

The question posed by the OP in this thread is no different than when people use the Posi-Taps and want to know if they’re working.

You’re attempting to make a mountain out of a molehill when there isn’t one.

The solution is PNP, it’s no more involved than connecting 1 wire, that’s it. Pictures and pin placement were provided for everyone. If you can install a JB4 and Posi-Tap the wires, users can follow the guide posted for a PNP solution.

I’ve been here for support and I’ll continue to be here for support. I’m not looking to sell anything or cash in on anything. I’m sharing my knowledge, as is typically the point of forums. If users need help, I’ll gladly help them out, no worries.

And my last point on this, it’s clearly something that several owners find useful. Why would you intentionally attempt to mislead those owners with your loose and inaccurate rhetoric? When you read up a bit more on what’s actually taking place and want to have a more informed discussion, I’m here for that, but what you’re doing right now is harmful, does not further the conversation, nor move the development along. If it weren’t a good idea to at least offer to customers, Terry wouldn’t be on board with it — and planning to offer it to potential customers, so don’t try to twist his words to support your narrative.

Read the thread, in its entirety, and let’s discuss from there. If you’re not onboard with it and love the Posi-Taps, no one is forcing you to abandon them. Keep them if you like them, but don’t poo-poo those of us who don’t want them and have/desire a superior solution.

 

[khmer07]

Then you don't have a problem, because even if they are 100% connected, they're not doing anything for you until you're at WOT. If you never see WOT, fuel wires aren't helping you.



Surely it's possible to pull over to the side of a freeway, slow down, then punch it back to freeway speeds?

I just did that from 10-90 mph but didnt get it logged dam.(must have missed pressing the log button) I have to find some type of open, non busy road so I can run tests on. Is there any place that let's you do this besides a track?

 

[ecko04]

I just did that from 10-90 mph but didnt get it logged dam.(must have missed pressing the log button) I have to find some type of open, non busy road so I can run tests on. Is there any place that let's you do this besides a track?

You know you can go into the app settings and make it such that anytime you go say, >80% WOT the JB4 will log for you. This alleviates the need for you to remember to press a button.

 

[khmer07]

Oh wow didnt know that Ecko, I will do that for sure, thanks!

 

[StungBlueGT2]

Your apology falls on deaf ears when you continue to parrot inadequate information.

This alone lets me know you didn’t read the actual thread at all. You looked at the initial OP and went from there. If you actually read the thread, and subsequent posts where I cleaned up the install, you’d see just how simple it is and it’s nothing like you’re making it out to be.

And for the record, it’s 1 wire. Connecting a radar detector or dash cam is more involved.

The question posed by the OP in this thread is no different than when people use the Posi-Taps and want to know if they’re working.

You’re attempting to make a mountain out of a molehill when there isn’t one.

The solution is PNP, it’s no more involved than connecting 1 wire, that’s it. Pictures and pin placement were provided for everyone. If you can install a JB4 and Posi-Tap the wires, users can follow the guide posted for a PNP solution.

I’ve been here for support and I’ll continue to be here for support. I’m not looking to sell anything or cash in on anything. I’m sharing my knowledge, as is typically the point of forums. If users need help, I’ll gladly help them out, no worries.

And my last point on this, it’s clearly something that several owners find useful. Why would you intentionally attempt to mislead those owners with your loose and inaccurate rhetoric? When you read up a bit more on what’s actually taking place and want to have a more informed discussion, I’m here for that, but what you’re doing right now is harmful, does not further the conversation, nor move the development along. If it weren’t a good idea to at least offer to customers, Terry wouldn’t be on board with it — and planning to offer it to potential customers, so don’t try to twist his words to support your narrative.

Read the thread, in its entirety, and let’s discuss from there. If you’re not onboard with it and love the Posi-Taps, no one is forcing you to abandon them. Keep them if you like them, but don’t poo-poo those of us who don’t want them and have/desire a superior solution.

Wow. Take a chill pill brother. I respect what you’ve created and for your contribution to the Stinger community.

I admit, I didn’t read past the first post because that whole explanation & multiple videos about splicing, soldering, heat shrinking, etc. was, and still is way more complicated than two simple positaps.

And the only information I was “parroting” was your own words & explanation from the original post.

Now that I read the whole thread I now realize you are building it for people, which is awesome. My comments were about anyone trying to do all those steps from the first post themselves.

You do still have a couple additional steps people can accidentally mess up if they don’t do things perfectly, but I see you eliminated a lot of the potential problems by building it yourself and shipping it to the end user.

Again, I agree this is a useful tool and was not trying to “poo-poo” on your accomplishment or deter anyone from using your assistance with this PNP option.

Lastly, I wasnt twisting Terry’s words I was agreeing with them and believe it still applies. “More wiring=more potential problem areas”. That fact isn’t changing and you can’t deny you’re adding an extra degree of difficulty, as small as it may be, having users twist wires & melt the solder sleeves in place. Again not super complicated, but unfortunately some people may not connect wires properly, or could overheat & melt the sleeves, etc. and will have to start all over. Nothing against you or the idea, just the fact of any mod where user error comes into play.

I hope that clarifies and apologize again to you or anyone that thought I was bashing your idea. Great job on the concept & for building the units for people to eliminate as much of the problems as possible. I hope you get credit & paid for your efforts and know Terry will be thankful for all the extra JB4s he will sell because of your input.

 

[Terry@BMS]

Yikes guys we're all on the same team. The way I see it this was a cool idea by a forum member to try something new. Cool enough that we're working on adding it as an option ourselves (although it will take some time for connectors to come in, we ordered them).

Also unrelated pro tip, if an avocado has any black on it at all inside don't eat it. Made that mistake last night and paying the price.

 

[Manaz]

Guac in, quac out?

 

[Terry@BMS]

I'm not sure what's coming out exactly but it's pretty awful!

 

[khmer07]

On another note hehe, 2 logs here up to 80+mph. Gunning it on the ramp, able to tell if fuel wires on from these? *crosses fingers* I know I'm supposed to be 100% pedal WOT. Just wanted to see. That last log I actually almost spun out. Awd with all seasons. It was a tiny bit wet out.

 

[Terry@BMS]

I would guess they are working, trims are level as fuel enrichment rises up top.

 

[turboAWD]

Just curious - does the jb4 software produce both logs and images? Or how does that work? I always see users posting .csv files, and Terry responds with a jpg?? Is it just an excel graph? Can I make my own once I buy a jb4?