FAQ: Vibration under braking: warped rotors? NO!

They just measure runout on the rotor surface. They then resurface them. No analysis at all. It is in their interest not to fix this long term and sell brake jobs after the 12k warranty is up. I cannot believe Kia won't even acknowledge this especially since the long term tests the press has done showed the same issue.

Oh, I know. I was asking @Dan1028 specifically what the dealer was saying - because I believe it's rubbish, and we need to start challenging the garbage that we're being told if we expect a different response.
 
Oh, I know. I was asking @Dan1028 specifically what the dealer was saying - because I believe it's rubbish, and we need to start challenging the garbage that we're being told if we expect a different response.

I know what you're looking for but I don't think we're going to get it. I'm not sure how much shop time my service advisor has to actually tell me what's going on since it's a technician that's usually doing the work anyhow. Add to that the fact that my dealership shares its maintenance shop with Nissan and Infiniti, I doubt they see this enough to say it's problematic with the model.

I'm 99.9% positive that the issue is pad deposits since "warped" rotors due to normal brake use haven't really been a thing likely for decades (granted, over-torquing the lugs maybe (?) could do this, but I seriously doubt the cars came that way from the factory).

Considering that a term usually reserved to describe wheels, tires, or anything else paraboloid or round was used to describe my rotors, I wasn't going to press any further. Unfortunately this got repaired faster than I could grab pads and the brakes will likely bed in before the pads can be replaced. I'd rather not risk having the current pad material on the rotor before bedding in new pads. I'll do some research on pad/rotor combos for when this happens again (I agree that it will) and will purchase those ahead of time at that point.

I should add that Kia covered this completely under warranty. I'm not sure that they would have allowed me to source my own pads while being covered but, again, I didn't try.
 
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You might consider Gyrodisc too. I installed mine a couple of weeks ago and like them.
What "brake" pads you have paired up with your Gyrodisc and how they perform? "Noise", "fade" and "vibration"
 
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Correct. Try it out next time you come to a stop, both ways. When you have your foot on the brake, engage the e-brake and then let off on the brake pedal. You'll feel the try and move forward a smidge and you'll feel the rear hunch down, just like using a traditional pull-up style e-brake.
When you come to a stop and have auto-hold engaged, you don't feel anything when you let off on the brake pedal.

Interesting!

I’ve owned the car for a year and never used the Auto Hold function. Guess I need to start.......
 
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What "brake" pads you have paired up with your Gyrodisc and how they perform? "Noise", "fade" and "vibration"

The Girodisc magic pads are on new OEM rotors. So far I like them, about same braking power as stock, very quiet. Hopefully no more vibration problem.
 
Interesting!

I’ve owned the car for a year and never used the Auto Hold function. Guess I need to start.......
And I only just this past week started using the volume up and down and mute button on my steering wheel. Never paid it any heed until somebody said that the volume button worked as a mute button also. :laugh:
 
Reverting to the original intent of this thread, I can absolutely confirm the issue is not rotors, but pad deposits. Spent a few days on some "challenging" roads with my daughter (pics in another thread) and picked up vibration a couple of times. We shared the driving, and talking about it, both realized there had been times that we were stopped in gear, holding the car with the brakes, after some very aggressive driving. After that, we simply braked heavily a couple of times when safe to do so, and the vibration was completely gone. She's a gear head, so is her boyfriend, made for some interesting discussion bout the whole "warping" issue as well.

I am very conscious of not holding the car on the brakes when possible, but out on this trip, I just completely forgot while she hopped out to take a picture, or I did while she was driving. Just left it in drive and held it on the brakes.

My tires won't last much longer (6000 miles now) and when I get them changed, I'll probably throw in some Stoptech pads, just because.
 
From @Ty Davis in another thread...

A quick, easy, not expensive upgrade for North American Stingers is to upgrade the brake pads.
Our USA models are delivered with Fairly decent Brembo brakes. However, here in the states, we get less aggressive brake pads than other Stingers around the world.

We get Ceramic brake pads. These smooth (dull) brake feel, last longer, produce less dust, and have less aggressive initial bite than the more performance oriented pads used in other markets.

USA Brembo Ceramic Pad Part #’s
Front 58101J5A51 (...A50 discontinued)
Rear 58302J5A50

European Brembo Semimetallic Pad Part #’s
58101J5A55 Front
58302J5A55 Rear

A simple swap to the Euro pads will yield a more positive braking feel and experience.
The pedal will be much more sharp and responsive.
If you have ever switched from ceramics to metallics or vice verse on the same car, you know the treat you are in for with the Euro pads.
 
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Thanks - yeah, I did find that thread. And another one on G70/G80 which confirms the numbers. www.hyundaipartsdeal.com seems to have reasonable prices ($215 / set).

I don't get why one would want to spend this much when you can get Gyrodisc and Stoptech pads for less than half the price. I put the Gyrodisc pads on and I like them very much. They are also semi-metallic.
 
I don't get why one would want to spend this much when you can get Gyrodisc and Stoptech pads for less than half the price. I put the Gyrodisc pads on and I like them very much. They are also semi-metallic.

did you put the pads on the OEM rotors?
 
I don't get why one would want to spend this much when you can get Gyrodisc and Stoptech pads for less than half the price. I put the Gyrodisc pads on and I like them very much. They are also semi-metallic.

I had Stoptech Sport pads on my Legacy GT and was underwhelmed - better than stock, but not as good as, say Carbotech Bobcats. I'm not saying I'm GOING to put these pads on there - still doing my research. I may actually go with something like R4-S or Bobcats or even Wilwood ProMatrix (if the Evo 8 thing is true). I also didn't like Hawk HPS in my Legacy while others raved about them, so maybe I'm just weird..
 
I had Stoptech Sport pads on my Legacy GT and was underwhelmed - better than stock, but not as good as, say Carbotech Bobcats. I'm not saying I'm GOING to put these pads on there - still doing my research. I may actually go with something like R4-S or Bobcats or even Wilwood ProMatrix (if the Evo 8 thing is true). I also didn't like Hawk HPS in my Legacy while others raved about them, so maybe I'm just weird..


I am running them on the stock rotors, I bought new ones for these pads. I got a good deal on them or I would have bought aftermarket. I was just curious as to what the advantage to spending 215$ for Euro pads vs three choices that are under $100. Also Khartunerz now has several more aggressive pads on their site too.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
My garage mecanic was asking me if kia has other brakes than brembos because me gt2 had fitting to put in a cable e-brake but says brembos are electronic... so why did kia put this in?20190615_125533.webp
 
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I had Stoptech Sport pads on my Legacy GT and was underwhelmed - better than stock, but not as good as, say Carbotech Bobcats. I'm not saying I'm GOING to put these pads on there - still doing my research. I may actually go with something like R4-S or Bobcats or even Wilwood ProMatrix (if the Evo 8 thing is true). I also didn't like Hawk HPS in my Legacy while others raved about them, so maybe I'm just weird..

You are not weird you are just a typical auto enthusiast. We tend to be hyper picky about things. If we weren't we would be driving a Highlander, CRV or a Camry.
 
Hello everyone!
My Stinger is at 11,700 miles right now, and I've been experiencing vibrations under braking from speeds higher than 60 mph. I didn't come across this thread until earlier today but I had already brought my car to the dealership for an inspection. I am aware that there have been several cases of Stingers at ~10,000 miles+ experiencing this, and that many have got the rotors/pads replaced under warranty.

Technician wrote "After test drive I proceeded to perform brake inspection. Rotor runout measurement is .003 inch which puts rotos in excess of repair. Suggest 4 new rotors and all brake pads in order to correct issue and test drive afterward. Customer advised."

What annoys me is that the dealership says the rotors and pads will not be covered under warranty BUT they say I can and should call Kia Consumer Relations (they gave me their number) and have Kia pay for the brake job out of good will (quoted at a little above $2000).

So my questions are:
1) Should I still try to re-bed the brakes?
2) Whether or not I could get the brake job done through Kia, should I look into getting aftermarket rotors and pads so I can avoid this issue? I understand that aftermarket parts aren't perfect either, but it's something that should be explored anyway. And I don't have to worry about voiding warranty or whatever because the dealership already said it won't be covered under warranty.

Wait, how come my brakes aren't covered under warranty and for some others, they were?
 
Sorry, no good answers, ibringdafunkbaq - which dealer? Stevens Creek? I don't trust ANY Stevens Creek dealers (Subaru, Kia, etc). They're all slimeballs in my book. Mind you, I haven't heard of any GOOD Kia dealers around here either. Try another dealer, maybe?
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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