FAQ: Vibration under braking: warped rotors? NO!

Correct. Try it out next time you come to a stop, both ways. When you have your foot on the brake, engage the e-brake and then let off on the brake pedal. You'll feel the try and move forward a smidge and you'll feel the rear hunch down, just like using a traditional pull-up style e-brake.
When you come to a stop and have auto-hold engaged, you don't feel anything when you let off on the brake pedal.
 
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That being said, when doing an e-brake launch, I find it hard to believe that this ebrake (1-sided-left) only is holding back the Stinger's torque.

who's doing ebrake launches? I've heard of people trying the ebrake/auto hold to launch but you can't build any boost at all and everyone says it's slower than using launch control
 
There's a couple guys on here that've had good luck doing it.
 
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who's doing ebrake launches? I've heard of people trying the ebrake/auto hold to launch but you can't build any boost at all and everyone says it's slower than using launch control
I have done a few and it certainly feels faster. It looks like I will have to take out the Draggy to see if the "feels" match the "reals." At the risk of getting a ticket, I will do multiple runs and try to find if auto-hold, launch control, and e-brake are any different for me and my car. My e-brake locks up good and tight with no slippage at the line.
 
I have done a few and it certainly feels faster. It looks like I will have to take out the Draggy to see if the "feels" match the "reals." At the risk of getting a ticket, I will do multiple runs and try to find if auto-hold, launch control, and e-brake are any different for me and my car. My e-brake locks up good and tight with no slippage at the line.
yeah but you can't build at boost at all. Launch control gets you up to a couple thousand RPM, the e-ebrake won't let you get much above idle before it releases.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
yeah but you can't build at boost at all. Launch control gets you up to a couple thousand RPM, the e-ebrake won't let you get much above idle before it releases.
You lift and hold the ebrake and release when you want to leave. I easily get above 2000rpm and build boost prior to leaving.
 
You lift and hold the ebrake and release when you want to leave. I easily get above 2000rpm and build boost prior to leaving.
The lazy man's launch? :D
 
Stoptech Street Pads are an increase in performance without an increase in noise or dust
Do you recommend the stoptech performance street ceramic pads over the DBA SP500 pads or any other currently available in khartunnerz site? I'm inquiry before buying. I do a lot of highway driving here in Florida, and to keep up with traffic speed generally you have to drive 10 mph over the speed limit. I like the low noise and dust, but I also love to do a lot of spirited driving, I find my self racing folks in the street thinking they can beat a KIAStinger GT. I guess they soon realize the car looks fast and is fast. I have the issue as everyone else in this conversation. My break are vibrating in the front and I'm beyond the point of re-bedding. Therefore, I'm interested in a break pad that can afford me a balance between the two extreme driving scenarios (D2D and Spirited) with less compromise on the conservative side. That is why the stoptech performance street ceramic caught my eye. What are your suggestion if any?

Note: I will be paring the break pads with a new set of Cquence disks.
 
The lazy man's launch? :D
Give it a shot and let me know what you think. Make sure to turn traction control off or it will bog due to wheelspin once rolling. Tons of fun leaving a couple of black strips down the road. I need to go and read up on the other threads. Some were talking of bypassing the brake switch to accomplish the same thing using the foot brake.
 
You might consider Gyrodisc too. I installed mine a couple of weeks ago and like them.
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Don't really feel it in the steering wheel, more in the seat which points to the rear I was told
Just had the rear pads and rotors replaced..1st time no issues with the brakes since I bought this car, nice to not get the shakes.

I bedded them and used the e-brake when stopped at a light.
 
Does anyone know if the brake pad issue is still present on the 2019 model year stingers? Also if I have read over everything correctly it seems that this issue only happens when you are hard on the brakes or are dragging them for a long time. I tend to drive conservatively and not accelerate or brake hard so will I still see this issue occur with only light use on the brakes?
 
Does anyone know if the brake pad issue is still present on the 2019 model year stingers? Also if I have read over everything correctly it seems that this issue only happens when you are hard on the brakes or are dragging them for a long time. I tend to drive conservatively and not accelerate or brake hard so will I still see this issue occur with only light use on the brakes?
I have a 2019 and it was an issue when I picked it up, there was 79 miles on the car, probably driven like it was stolen on all the test drives.

Just had rear pads and rotors replaced this morning
 
Does anyone know if the brake pad issue is still present on the 2019 model year stingers? Also if I have read over everything correctly it seems that this issue only happens when you are hard on the brakes or are dragging them for a long time. I tend to drive conservatively and not accelerate or brake hard so will I still see this issue occur with only light use on the brakes?
If you go by me as your "yardstick", yes, you will not have any brake issues whatsoever. I've stood on them a few times in the inevitable emergencies. 99.9% of the time I do most of my stopping by coasting down and only braking to stop at the end (maximizes your mpg too, by keeping the mpg indicator pegged longer at the far right end! :D). At 12K miles I was told that my brakes still look almost brand new. I'm now at 20K+ miles.
 
I think this thread now needs a poll to summarise .
Can the experts do a summary as there seems to be a large amount of variation in reasons.
Most I have spoken to say it’s the pads. I can’t say much as I have had no problems and I’m heavy braker.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I like polls. They are the straightest way to answering incidence questions.
I think this thread now needs a poll to summarise .
Can the experts do a summary as there seems to be a large amount of variation in reasons.
Most I have spoken to say it’s the pads. I can’t say much as I have had no problems and I’m heavy braker.
 
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I got a call from my service advisor that my front rotors are "out of round." They're replacing them tomorrow.

I had the car in for a litany of warranty work, part of which was vibration during braking which I've assumed to be pad deposits on the rotors. I am not hard on my brakes, so I'm not pleased, to say the least, especially as these are Brembo brakes. My Camaro never had this issue.

12,700 miles. 10/17 build.
 
Please ask them to clarify what they mean by "out of round".

Given rotors are only "round" in one plane, if you've managed to change that, you're some kind of driver!

If they mean that there are deposits on the rotor faces that are causing them to be out of balance - that's a different issue, and is not solvable in the long term by replacing the rotors.

Damn it'd be nice if dealerships and mechanical workshops would use real terminology instead of sprouting meaningless tripe...
 
I got a call from my service advisor that my front rotors are "out of round." They're replacing them tomorrow.

I had the car in for a litany of warranty work, part of which was vibration during braking which I've assumed to be pad deposits on the rotors. I am not hard on my brakes, so I'm not pleased, to say the least, especially as these are Brembo brakes. My Camaro never had this issue.

12,700 miles. 10/17 build.

Do yourself a favor and spend less than a hundred bucks on different brake pads, I have Gyrodisc and the Stoptech pads are well reviewed. I did it, very easy to change out, don't even have to remove calipers. Hardest part is lifting the car. I would do it while the rotors are smooth or you will be dealing with this again.
 
Please ask them to clarify what they mean by "out of round".

Given rotors are only "round" in one plane, if you've managed to change that, you're some kind of driver!

If they mean that there are deposits on the rotor faces that are causing them to be out of balance - that's a different issue, and is not solvable in the long term by replacing the rotors.

Damn it'd be nice if dealerships and mechanical workshops would use real terminology instead of sprouting meaningless tripe...

They just measure runout on the rotor surface. They then resurface them. No analysis at all. It is in their interest not to fix this long term and sell brake jobs after the 12k warranty is up. I cannot believe Kia won't even acknowledge this especially since the long term tests the press has done showed the same issue.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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