FAQ: Vibration under braking: warped rotors? NO!

[only1harry]

Nice. I personally prefer semi-metallic for the added performance, ie: higher friction coefficient. Ceramics are usually for OEM performance - nothing wrong with that and they do the job fairly well with less noise and dust.

 

[thefultonhow]

Yep, I wasn't making it up I went to the track and auto-x'd for many years using HP+, and they were great on the street too. A light tap on the pedal and you better be strapped in or your head will hit the steering wheel I liked the HP+ so much on my dedicated "race" car, I put them on 1 of my daily drivers - a 2001 Civic EX coupe back then that was my main commuter car, after the factory pads got worn out at about 40k miles. Well this might sound outlandish, but the HP+ lasted almost 90k miles of regular street use on cheap Brembo blanks (rotors)! No BS!

Yeah, the HP+ were one of the few pads I actually liked. The OEM pads on my Legacy GT and WRX were about as gooey as the OEM Stinger pads. The HPS were too mild even for street driving. The Stoptech Street Performance were great on the street and decent for autoX, but got totally destroyed in one track day. The Hawk Street Race actually ended up not only eating my rotors, but wearing down to the wear indicators in like 10k of street driving. The only other pads I liked besides the HP+ were the stock ones in my SS, which somehow had a pretty much perfect tradeoff between noise/dust and performance.

 

[CaliSting]

Sounds like you don't actually think the FAQ is fake news, but rather that you have problems with specific parts of it, so I will try to respond to those parts.

First, whether or not the rotors are Brembo branded, all rotors are made of very thick steel that is annealed at temperatures that are several times what the rotors will ever see on the car, even in track use. They're not going to warp. The Stinger rotors are particularly excellent at heat dissipation due to their large size and venting, but even smaller rotors on less sporty cars do not warp. I would encourage you to read the linked article in the FAQ.

Second, no, you don't have to drive aggressively for this to happen. The Stinger GT is a heavy car. It's over 3800 lbs in RWD trim, and over two tons in AWD trim. Enough braking power is needed to slow that amount of mass down that you can overheat the pads on a hilly road or when stopping suddenly in rush hour traffic. At that point, dragging the pads will cause the problem.

Third, you're right, it's not an isolated issue. It's a design flaw due to the chosen pad compound the car comes with from the factory. Some people may never experience it. Others may experience it occasionally. Still others will experience it frequently. The fact remains that there is a misconception that the problem is occurring due to warped rotors. THAT, as you say, is fake news.

Nice “authoritative” opinion again. There are lots of 4000 lb sedans and SUVs . Hell my 5000 plus lb SUV has smaller rotors than Stinger. No issues for 85000 miles on those rotors on same exact commute. Also can assure you there are plenty of smaller cars with smaller Rotors and pads that get just as hot as our Stingers. Stinger isn’t unusually heavy.

Also I don’t know that people are thinking heat warps rotors. Warped is term used often to describe out of round rotors. Also rotors go out of true for more reasons than pad material disposition. Sometimes misalignment of rotor on hub or even overtightening lug nuts can result in warped rotor due to uneven wear. I’m not convinced there was some kind of issue with over tightened lugs or misaligned rotor from factory in addition to bad pad and rotor combo.

I also don’t believe our GT rotors are steel as you indicate but are high carbon cast iron.

 

[thefultonhow]

Nice “authoritative” opinion again. There are lots of 4000 lb sedans and SUVs . Hell my 5000 plus lb SUV has smaller rotors than Stinger. No issues for 85000 miles on those rotors on same exact commute. Also can assure you there are plenty of smaller cars with smaller Rotors and pads that get just as hot as our Stingers. Stinger isn’t unusually heavy.

Also I don’t know that people are thinking heat warps rotors. Warped is term used often to describe out of round rotors. Also rotors go out of true for more reasons than pad material disposition. Sometimes misalignment of rotor on hub or even overtightening lug nuts can result in warped rotor due to uneven wear. I’m not convinced there was some kind of issue with over tightened lugs or misaligned rotor from factory in addition to bad pad and rotor combo.

I also don’t believe our GT rotors are steel as you indicate but are high carbon cast iron.

So you're providing examples of other ways rotors might go out of true, and then saying that you don't think that is happening. You then say that you still think the rotors are defective, but you don't provide any possible reason or way in which they might be defective.

If you really think the rotors are going out of true for some reason other than pad deposits, then you might want to come up with a plausible way in which that might be happening. I would also suggest reading the article I linked. I'm just a shade tree mechanic with experience dealing with pad deposits, but maybe you should believe a guy who has worked extensively with race teams on their brakes.

BTW, most steel is an alloy of iron and carbon, so "high carbon cast iron" and "cast steel" are the same thing.

 

[Ecco]

Thank you for taking the time to compile this. Drives me nuts to hear people talk about "warped rotors". The only point I might suggest to call out with more emphasis, is that it's hard braking, or having hot brake components, followed by being stationary with brakes applied, that really causes the issue. The resins that hold the pad material together are weakened by the heat, so you end up with pad material deposits on the rotors. Being aware of this is all it takes to prevent it.

I did not know the parking brake uses steel pads, that is very good to know!

Actually bring aware of it does not always prevent it. In the case of city drivers with constant traffic especially on interstates where you repeatedly speed up and slow down, you are forced to drive in a way that causes the pad deposit to stick. Couple traffic with intense sand and rocks then you experience these issues in under 2500 miles That's why I am now looking into approved aftermarket rotors and brakes that can withstand harsh driving.

I am only responding to this so that way we do not always blame drivers when it could very much be their environment. Just as we cannot always blame Kia. Kia can be blamed only if they are not willing to work through this issue with the specific consumer. Kind of like how I've been told by Kia Kuwait that any modifications will result in the loss of warranty, but that just means Kia Middle East will have to continually waste money on my vehicle and waste my time in the process.

I also have not seen any proof for these mythical Euro spec pads. I asked Kia spare parts for the part numbers of the pads. There are two part numbers for the front and one for the rear.

If anyone in Korea could let us know of any approved aftermarket options or if there are different brake pads distributed in different regions then please let us know.

 

[eflyguy]

Actually bring aware of it does not always prevent it. In the case of city drivers with constant traffic especially on interstates where you repeatedly speed up and slow down, you are forced to drive in a way that causes the pad deposit to stick. Couple traffic with intense sand and rocks then you experience these issues in under 2500 miles That's why I am now looking into approved aftermarket rotors and brakes that can withstand harsh driving.

Not arguing with you, but constant city or interstate driving (where you speed up and slow down) should not cause the brake components to become so hot as to cause pad deposits. If that is indeed the case, then the components are indeed ill-suited.

I can see how environment could play a role - based on my limited knowledge of yours (thanks, Top Gear), I do wonder if sand being blown around at ground level could be picked up and cause that kind of damage. They call it "sandpaper" for a reason! If so, however, you would think it would be a well known problem in that region.

 

[Ecco]

Supposedly from the service manager, the stinger isn't selling too well in Kuwait. The salesman said they sell about 1 or 2 every month so I would halve that for a high estimate. Dubai may sell a fair amount but they have cleaner streets so less of an issue. I can only imagine some parts of Saudi to be comparable to Kuwait. Everywhere else is no worse than Arizona. I mean our last major sandstorm was like 2 years ago. The major killer is street pollution or the lack of maintanence.

And city driving isn't necessarily speeding up and slowing down. It's 60mph to 10 to 0 to 10 to 0 to 20 to 0 to 70 to 0. If you get what I mean. And I'm seasoned driver who allows space between the lead car and myself yet the rythm stays the same but less immediate. It's almost as if your on a highway at 45 or 50mph and get caught at a red light but then your stuck in a perpetual inching forward loop. That is everyday driving here on any road. The snaking of cars never ends.

 

[Kamauxx]

If anyone in Korea could let us know of any approved aftermarket options

There are aftermarket options in the brake/wheel/suspension sub-forum.

 

[Ozstung]

Supposedly from the service manager, the stinger isn't selling too well in Kuwait. The salesman said they sell about 1 or 2 every month so I would halve that for a high estimate. Dubai may sell a fair amount but they have cleaner streets so less of an issue. I can only imagine some parts of Saudi to be comparable to Kuwait. Everywhere else is no worse than Arizona. I mean our last major sandstorm was like 2 years ago. The major killer is street pollution or the lack of maintanence.

And city driving isn't necessarily speeding up and slowing down. It's 60mph to 10 to 0 to 10 to 0 to 20 to 0 to 70 to 0. If you get what I mean. And I'm seasoned driver who allows space between the lead car and myself yet the rythm stays the same but less immediate. It's almost as if your on a highway at 45 or 50mph and get caught at a red light but then your stuck in a perpetual inching forward loop. That is everyday driving here on any road. The snaking of cars never ends.

Not ideal conditions for the stinger to stretch "its legs". City living really cramps the enjoyment of driving.

 

[MerlintheMad]

Not ideal conditions for the stinger to stretch "its legs". City living really cramps the enjoyment of driving.

That's where the gran turismo comes into play: all the amenities and luxuries and comforts, specially the quietness that I get to fill with surround sound of my choice. Even sitting in heavy traffic isn't the drag it used to be when I get to relax in this cabin. So I can understand why a 2.0T would be thoroughly adequate under such all pervading circumstances.

 

[Tonkabob]

I haven't heard anyone recommending auto hold. Much less work than trying to constantly use the e brake at a light.

 

[Ozstung]

I Use the auto hold on every trip .Sometimes though I have a brain snap and think im still in neutral and try and put it back into drive and find myself going nowhere reving the engine, simply still not used to it yet. lol

 

[nhcowboy28]

I haven't heard anyone recommending auto hold. Much less work than trying to constantly use the e brake at a light.

I use it every day.

 

[thefultonhow]

I haven't heard anyone recommending auto hold. Much less work than trying to constantly use the e brake at a light.

Auto hold keeps the brakes applied, thereby doing exactly what you don't want to do when your brakes are heated up. Sure way to get pad deposits in that situation. It's literally exactly the same thing as keeping your foot on the brake, which is what you're trying to avoid by using the parking brake.

I use auto hold all the time, but it's counterproductive when you're trying to prevent pad deposits.

 

[MerlintheMad]

I haven't heard anyone recommending auto hold. Much less work than trying to constantly use the e brake at a light.

The second thing I engage (after disabling ISG) is auto hold. The only time I turn it off is when I remember as I am parking, or in extended stop and go traffic.

 

[SeanFL]

The Fultonhow, thanks much for your well researched FAQ. My Stinger GT2 awd has started to experience the brake pulsing. I took it in at 13 months old and 11,200 miles to my local dealership, they came for a test drive, and confirmed there's an issue. Then they told me it's past 12 months, sorry, you'll need to pay for rotors and brake pads, labor, etc. to the tune of $850 US dollars. Not what I wanted to hear.

Re-bedding as you described DID help. Did it 5 times within a few minutes. The brakes were smoother and much better...for about 3 or 4 days. Then it started to come back and I'm not hard on the brakes. My prior Lexus made it 50,000 miles before needing new pads. Should I re-bed a few more times and hopefully it'll make it more permanent?

I'm in conversation with Kia corporate asking that they take care of the rotors and pads since I was so close to one year when the car was brought in with the issue. If that doesn't work, anyone have a educated guess as to if I need to pay for all four rotors or will just getting new front rotors take care of it? I feel the pulse in the steering wheel and generally the front of the car.

Lastly, I'm having a tough time believing that I need to pay for new rotors when they are warranted for 5 years 60,000 miles. Doesn't this seem like a manufacturer issue that should be covered under warranty?

Love the car. Not happy with the braking issues. Hopefully Kia will help get me back to being fully smiling while driving.

 

[Kamauxx]

The Fultonhow, thanks much for your well researched FAQ. My Stinger GT2 awd has started to experience the brake pulsing. I took it in at 13 months old and 11,200 miles to my local dealership, they came for a test drive, and confirmed there's an issue. Then they told me it's past 12 months, sorry, you'll need to pay for rotors and brake pads, labor, etc. to the tune of $850 US dollars. Not what I wanted to hear.

Re-bedding as you described DID help. Did it 5 times within a few minutes. The brakes were smoother and much better...for about 3 or 4 days. Then it started to come back and I'm not hard on the brakes. My prior Lexus made it 50,000 miles before needing new pads. Should I re-bed a few more times and hopefully it'll make it more permanent?

I'm in conversation with Kia corporate asking that they take care of the rotors and pads since I was so close to one year when the car was brought in with the issue. If that doesn't work, anyone have a educated guess as to if I need to pay for all four rotors or will just getting new front rotors take care of it? I feel the pulse in the steering wheel and generally the front of the car.

Lastly, I'm having a tough time believing that I need to pay for new rotors when they are warranted for 5 years 60,000 miles. Doesn't this seem like a manufacturer issue that should be covered under warranty?

Love the car. Not happy with the braking issues. Hopefully Kia will help get me back to being fully smiling while driving.

First off, that price is ridiculous.i was quoted $150 per rotor by a Kia dealership which is also ridiculous.

My rotors were redone by Kia while I was over 12k miles because I got Kia corporate involved, so hopefully that avenue works for you as well. If/when they fix it you will want to install better pads (and bed them) so the problem doesn't resurface.

Lastly, the rotors aren't warrantied for 50k miles. Kia covers the braking systems for 12k miles/12 months only.

 

[Waynerm002]

The rotors are $203 for the fronts, plus shipping from Tasca parts, you don't have to go through the dealer. You can choose your pads from the ones listed in one of the threads here. The installation isn't difficult if you are handy, if not take them to another shop (less than the dealer, in most cases) to get them done.

 

[BabblingBafoon]

Found this thread as I was searching for an answer to my brake issues with my 2018 Genesis G80 Sport, which is VERY similar to the Stinger GT in almost all regards. So this problem is with the G80 Sport too.

My Genesis dealer got Genesis to replace the rotors at 15K miles the first time it happened as “an exception”. However, it appeared with the new rotors at 20K miles (just 6K miles later). I have been “babying” the breaks in the meantime, knowing they wouldn’t cover them again and while I look around for an aftermarket upgrade.

This thread was extremely helpful!! Thanks for this. I will try the re-bedding technique (once I can find a road where I can do all those runs without ever actually stopping), but it sounds like better pads are the key.

Would drilled/slotted/vented rotors also help? If I already have to replace the rotors, may as well get the best ones I can.

 

[nhcowboy28]

Found this thread as I was searching for an answer to my brake issues with my 2018 Genesis G80 Sport, which is VERY similar to the Stinger GT in almost all regards. So this problem is with the G80 Sport too.

My Genesis dealer got Genesis to replace the rotors at 15K miles the first time it happened as “an exception”. However, it appeared with the new rotors at 20K miles (just 6K miles later). I have been “babying” the breaks in the meantime, knowing they wouldn’t cover them again and while I look around for an aftermarket upgrade.

This thread was extremely helpful!! Thanks for this. I will try the re-bedding technique (once I can find a road where I can do all those runs without ever actually stopping), but it sounds like better pads are the key.

Would drilled/slotted/vented rotors also help? If I already have to replace the rotors, may as well get the best ones I can.

Find a big parking lot (think community college on a Saturday early am). You can easily do the bedding cycles and coast in between circling without stopping.