Suspension Performance and How to Improve it!

So many people come on here an complain about what the car isn't, negating the statement put out by the manufacturer. It was designed to be a GT car, not a sports car. While we want it to be more (for some, due to it's looks), just use it as it was intended and it does fine. Want more, do some mods to it. It is designed on the same platform as the G70 so the potential for more is there if you want to extract it.

We all have opinions. And I'm sure I'm like most people here and have driven quite a few cars in my lifetime. This is the only car I've questioned if the wheels were falling off while corning. I've driven some pretty low-budget cars that gave me more confidence corning than the stinger. It down right feels unsafe. I've actually felt the reared waggle while going over man-hole covers. I truly feel there is something structurally not right w/ this car and it is also why the hatch sounds like it's starting to fall off.

This isn't a 'GT' vs 'sports car', 'it is what it is' thing. It's the first year for this car and Kia didn't get it 100% correct and we all knew that could happen w/ a first-year car when we bought it. But I'm not going to turn a blind-eye to this and make excuses 'it's a GT'. That's my opinion.
 
I 'll just say I agree with most of your points. Personally, if I were looking at a GT2 AWD that stickers for $52K-53K (discounts apart) I would want a little more out of the car's suspension and a little more out of the car in general as far as luxury/materials go, hence the reason I am looking at the base GT AWD that stickers for >$10K less. I think the GT is a good value and would be happy with that model and for what the Stinger is meant to be (if I can find one that has no vibrations).

Actually, I think the opposite, with Hyundai, Genesis and Kia, upper trims are better value for money. If you try to get all electronics on any other brand it will cost you zillions of dollars. Off course if you don't need any then for you base might be a better buy.
 
I have zero issues when cornering. I feel completely connected to the road.
 
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I have zero issues when cornering. I feel completely connected to the road.

You probably have the 19" wheels with the Michelin summer tires (?). I can see that setup cornering better especially with the wider wheels and tires in the back.
 
You probably have the 19" wheels with the Michelin summer tires (?). I can see that setup cornering better especially with the wider wheels and tires in the back.
I did, but they are in storage till April. I have Continental extremecontact dws06 all seasons right now. But yeah, staggered 19s still.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
We all have opinions. And I'm sure I'm like most people here and have driven quite a few cars in my lifetime. This is the only car I've questioned if the wheels were falling off while corning. I've driven some pretty low-budget cars that gave me more confidence corning than the stinger. It down right feels unsafe. I've actually felt the reared waggle while going over man-hole covers. I truly feel there is something structurally not right w/ this car and it is also why the hatch sounds like it's starting to fall off.

This isn't a 'GT' vs 'sports car', 'it is what it is' thing. It's the first year for this car and Kia didn't get it 100% correct and we all knew that could happen w/ a first-year car when we bought it. But I'm not going to turn a blind-eye to this and make excuses 'it's a GT'. That's my opinion.

Unfortunately I can confirm that the 2019 GT AWD with 18"s that I test drove felt exactly what you described. Twice I heard a loud banging noise that appeared to come from the trunk during spirited cornering, and the rear just dind't feel right at all. For a moment it feels like you are going to lose the rear, but then it grips. I think it's just the way the electronic differential works. It's a little late transferring power to the rear wheels, and it does it mid-turn after it starts sliding a little. But you are right, fast cornering involved some noises from the rear. I even asked the saleswoman in the car "did you hear that"? Got a response "hear what?". I said nevermind. They are not going to admit to anything anyway. It also could be the springs are popping in & out of the spring seats. I had that happen in my 2015 Mazda 3S GT. It was a similar "bang" noise when I took corners. Mazda took about a year to come out with a Service Bulletin about that after a few thousand people complained :(

So I am pretty sure they have not changed a thing on the Stinger 2nd year into it. I doubt anything is going to improve before the next gen Stinger.. All you might see is a slight "facelift" mid-cycle (3rd or 4th year), if sales fall off, and that's it.
 
Consider yourself lucky. There wouldn't be an 8 page thread(s) if the issue wasn't real.
I didnt say it wasnt real for some but I wonder whether some are trying to take corners like it's an RS or an SI not like a GT. Additionally, there a few posters who have made multiple posts on this thread. It's not eight pages where each post is from a new poster making their one and only post on the thread.
 
I agree the rear suspension is a little on the soft side on this car but I have a theory. I think with the large cargo area and the fact that its a GT car, they had to try to strike a balance between comfort and sport while ensuring the car could be loaded up with 4 adults with luggage and still provide a decent ride. The OEM rear sway bar is in my opinion a huge contributor to this problem, which is why I bought the upgraded Eibach bar to install in its place. The front sway bar is actually pretty beefy so Im leaving that for now. Once I install the rear bar Ill report back on my findings, so far Ive heard the rear bar alone transforms the entire ride making it stiffer with less roll and none of that twitchy mid-corner shit.
 
I agree the rear suspension is a little on the soft side on this car but I have a theory. I think with the large cargo area and the fact that its a GT car, they had to try to strike a balance between comfort and sport while ensuring the car could be loaded up with 4 adults with luggage and still provide a decent ride. The OEM rear sway bar is in my opinion a huge contributor to this problem, which is why I bought the upgraded Eibach bar to install in its place. The front sway bar is actually pretty beefy so Im leaving that for now. Once I install the rear bar Ill report back on my findings, so far Ive heard the rear bar alone transforms the entire ride making it stiffer with less roll and none of that twitchy mid-corner shit.

I created this thread, discussing rear vs both sways, it's a mix of opinions and facts

3.3TT - Eibach sway bar both or just rear for AWD Stinger
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Unfortunately I can confirm that the 2019 GT AWD with 18"s that I test drove felt exactly what you described. Twice I heard a loud banging noise that appeared to come from the trunk during spirited cornering, and the rear just dind't feel right at all. For a moment it feels like you are going to lose the rear, but then it grips. I think it's just the way the electronic differential works. It's a little late transferring power to the rear wheels, and it does it mid-turn after it starts sliding a little. But you are right, fast cornering involved some noises from the rear. I even asked the saleswoman in the car "did you hear that"? Got a response "hear what?". I said nevermind. They are not going to admit to anything anyway. It also could be the springs are popping in & out of the spring seats. I had that happen in my 2015 Mazda 3S GT. It was a similar "bang" noise when I took corners. Mazda took about a year to come out with a Service Bulletin about that after a few thousand people complained :(

So I am pretty sure they have not changed a thing on the Stinger 2nd year into it. I doubt anything is going to improve before the next gen Stinger.. All you might see is a slight "facelift" mid-cycle (3rd or 4th year), if sales fall off, and that's it.

There is no banging from the suspension. My car is silent. After six months I did start to get a banging from the rear hatch, which I adjusted out in 20 seconds by adding a bit more rubber damper height in the adjustable rubber dampers designed exactly to allow us to adjust such a huge and heavy hatch.
 
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The OEM rear sway bar is in my opinion a huge contributor to this problem, which is why I bought the upgraded Eibach bar to install in its place. The front sway bar is actually pretty beefy so Im leaving that for now. Once I install the rear bar Ill report back on my findings, so far Ive heard the rear bar alone transforms the entire ride making it stiffer with less roll and none of that twitchy mid-corner shit.

The rear and front are both contributor while rear being more. Those who added front only first said it made ton of difference then adding rear made some more but not as much as front and there are few who said vice and versa. One guy kept rear on hard setting and front on soft and said it worked best for him. I think, it's combination of personal preference, need and performance.
 
The rear and front are both contributor while rear being more. Those who added front only first said it made ton of difference then adding rear made some more but not as much as front and there are few who said vice and versa. One guy kept rear on hard setting and front on soft and said it worked best for him. I think, it's combination of personal preference, need and performance.
Well the specs make it pretty evident that the rear bar is the weak point on the car check out the numbers:

OEM bars
Front: 23mm 263 lb/in
Rear: 16mm 114 lb/in

Eibach Front 25mm adjustable: Soft 366 lb/in (+39%), stiff 398 lb/in (+51%)

Rear 19mm adjustable: Soft 201 lb/in (+76%), stiff 244 lb/in (+114%)
 
Well the specs make it pretty evident that the rear bar is the weak point on the car check out the numbers:

OEM bars
Front: 23mm 263 lb/in
Rear: 16mm 114 lb/in

Eibach Front 25mm adjustable: Soft 366 lb/in (+39%), stiff 398 lb/in (+51%)

Rear 19mm adjustable: Soft 201 lb/in (+76%), stiff 244 lb/in (+114%)

Yes, I am pretty all aware of the numbers, eibach rear has bigger difference compared to eibach front, specs wise. I even had a thread, which i shared link to in post above which sumerizes this.
 
I'm no expert by any means, so with that said, my TLDR observation - I find the car to be one of the best I've ever driven, and I think the best I've ever owned.

If I had a specific task I expected it to handle regularly, or a specific problem/shortcoming I feel needed addressing, I'd be looking for a solution. The thing is, I drive it like I stole it, and don't feel the need. Yes, I've managed to get it to break loose, but I was so far beyond safe (and legal) conditions, I wouldn't expect any less!

I've been on a race track with an R8 and LP560 and Atom, and if I was going to regularly track a vehicle for fun or to race, any number of other smaller, lighter, more nimble vehicles would be better suited than a Stinger. And yet, if I ever take the opportunity, the Stinger would be a lot of fun on a track anyway. Many reviewers have against far different vehicles and come away impressed.

My family regularly visits drag strips. We own and race several vehicles, some are modified "classics", some are daily drivers. My Stinger is faster than most and slower than few, but it's just a fun day out, I can travel there and back in insane comfort, and then take a handful of executives to lunch in style the next day.

I ride motorcycles in some of the best areas in the country. People come here from all over - a friend of mine runs a bike rental business and a lot of his customers are from other countries, let alone other states. To date, I've only driven the Stinger once on some of those "fun" roads, but came home with a huge grin on my face and have told everyone who cares - if I never rode a bike again, I could be happy with this car. Again - is it as nimble as a hundred alternatives? No! But it's a freaking blast anyway.

Up until that point, the best handling car I've "lived with" is my daughters Challenger, that handles like it's on rails. My Stinger is better. We recently added a Corvette to the fleet, which she now drives daily to keep the miles off the Challenger (!!) - she told me (I was proud to hear her say it) the combination of AWD and the MUCH better shifting transmission make the Stinger feel as good, if even perhaps a little better, than either of those two cars.

Proud of my kid. Happy with my Stinger.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I experienced mid corner hop over road imperfections in my car when I had the Michelins on the car in the early days. I'll admit I drove it harder then to find the limits. I've watched a number of videos on the car and came across one when Albert Biermann, mentioned they designed the rear end to be playful and I have have had situations where I have gone into corners quickly and the safety systems didn't come in to mitigate things, but the car straightened up quite nicely after a slide and at no point did it feel like it was going to spin. After driving my Optima again, I realized why it felt better than the Stinger in corners. That car has been lowered so it doesn't roll into corners like the Stinger. Coming from that car and driving it harder since the spring change, I wasn't thinking about the difference in suspension setup, just that the Stinger should handle better.

Since the change to the Nitto Motivos, I haven't experienced much of that mid corner hop as the Motivos feel softer and handle bumps better than the Michelins. I must also note that I was running my tire pressure incorrectly with the higher pressure in the rear. On the Nitto website, they do say to make the fronts 36 and the rear 39 and I tried that on the Michelins before swapping them out. That could account for the bouncier rear end. I've been running close to factory specs on the Nittos for about a month or so, 40 front and 38 rear and like the way they make the car feel. I want to ad the sways to the car and might do some lowering springs if I deem it necessary but I really don't want to lower the car any more than it is. Getting rid of the roll is enough for now.
 
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I experienced mid corner hop over road imperfections in my car when I had the Michelins on the car in the early days. I'll admit I drove it harder then to find the limits. I've watched a number of videos on the car and came across one when Albert Biermann, mentioned they designed the rear end to be playful and I have have had situations where I have gone into corners quickly and the safety systems didn't come in to mitigate things, but the car straightened up quite nicely after a slide and at no point did it feel like it was going to spin. After driving my Optima again, I realized why it felt better than the Stinger in corners. That car has been lowered so it doesn't roll into corners like the Stinger. Coming from that car and driving it harder since the spring change, I wasn't thinking about the difference in suspension setup, just that the Stinger should handle better.

Since the change to the Nitto Motivos, I haven't experienced much of that mid corner hop as the Motivos feel softer and handle bumps better than the Michelins. I must also note that I was running my tire pressure incorrectly with the higher pressure in the rear. On the Nittos, they do say to make the fronts 36 and the rear 39 and I tried that on the Michelins before swapping them out. That could account for the bouncier rear end. I've been running close to factory specs on the Nittos for about a month or so, 40 front and 38 rear and like the way they make the car feel. I want to ad the sways to the car and might do some lowering springs if I deem it necessary but I really don't want to lower the car any more than it is. Getting rid of the roll is enough for now.

You never adjust tire pressure based on what it says on a tire. Always use the car (plate attached in the door jam somewhere or occasionally in the fuel filler area). Only the car's suggestions are appropriate for the specific design of the car--and will almost always be conservative in terms of handling (lean towards understeer) or be biased toward fuel economy (higher pressures). The tire numbers are simply the safest highest pressure for that tire under its rated load. Completely not useful for most driving conditions.
 
The tires have a higher rating than mentioned, I meant to say what their website said, not sure why that didn't get in there. Actually I do, my keyboard has been acting up, my bad. I'll correct the post.
 
These days on the highway at high speeds (>120mph) I feel that the car floats way too much like a boat... It makes me nervous and I would like to do something about it. Will the Eibach springs help the car be more stable? or are coilovers the only answer?
 
These days on the highway at high speeds (>120mph) I feel that the car floats way too much like a boat... It makes me nervous and I would like to do something about it. Will the Eibach springs help the car be more stable? or are coilovers the only answer?
I dont know whether that will fix it or not but I havent had that feeling at all. When I drove the autobahn in my Honda Accord V6 back in the early 2000s, I would get that floaty feeling at 120, but no hint of that in my Stinger.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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