Suspension Performance and How to Improve it!

It's funny, BC I asked my mechanic to do teflon....I think he ignored me and just did dielectric grease. It's working for now, well see if it develops again.
Dielectric grease seems like grease that is optimized for a different application..

Why would you want dielectric grease instead of silicone grease with PTFE is essentially the standard
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Wait, what???? They're talking about wrapping the sway bars with teflon tape where the bushings go. How in the world does that get in the fuel system?

Edit: I mean, I get it that yes, using too much teflon tape and wrapping wrong would be bad when doing threads in the fuel system, but this entire thread is about suspension.
Whoops, sorry guys - thought I was in another thread! :rolleyes::D
 
I just had my mechanic regrease the front bushings during an oil change, the creaking was pretty bad- good now, but if it returns, I'm gonna install zerk fittings into the 2 brackets like the Eibachs have. The Whiteline sway set was almost half the Eibachs, so ill still be ahead relative to cost IMO
When I installed the Whiteline anti-roll bars, I customized the brackets with grease nipples. Makes it far easier to re-grease the bushings. Eibach come with nipples installed, but I've read that installing the rear brackets can be a pain.
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When I installed the Whiteline anti-roll bars, I customized the brackets with grease nipples. Makes it far easier to re-grease the bushings. Eibach come with nipples installed, but I've read that installing the rear brackets can be a pain.
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Yep, I like it. I had planned to install the grease fittings myself, but things got so busy...your pics are confusing, what's the orange stuff??
 
I installed rubber bushings for my rear eibach bar around 2years ago. Haven't touched it since. No noises, no creakings.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Yep, I like it. I had planned to install the grease fittings myself, but things got so busy...your pics are confusing, what's the orange stuff??
The orange pieces are collars that limit lateral movement of the bar.
 
The orange pieces are collars that limit lateral movement of the bar.
Yeah, got that, im talking the orange with black stripe inside the bracket....thats the collar??
 
I installed rubber bushings for my rear eibach bar around 2years ago. Haven't touched it since. No noises, no creakings.
Were there any handling differences when you switched from the included polyurethane bushings to the rubber?
 
Were there any handling differences when you switched from the included polyurethane bushings to the rubber?
I installed rubber bushings from the start. Didn't even wanna touch polyurethane ones. The bar itself did make a difference. Not a huge, but i am not driving my car very aggressive to really understand the difference.
 
I installed rubber bushings from the start. Didn't even wanna touch polyurethane ones. The bar itself did make a difference. Not a huge, but i am not driving my car very aggressive to really understand the difference.
Interesting.

Where did you get the rubbers from? Is that an eibach option or other source?
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Interesting.

Where did you get the rubbers from? Is that an eibach option or other source?
 
That's pretty awesome
Thanks for sharing.

On my previous car, I too suffered from polyurethane sway bar bushings needing frequent annoying maintenance.

Rubber does seem to stay silent for nearly forever.

Good to know there are options. Thanks for doing the legwork.
 
Yeah, got that, im talking the orange with black stripe inside the bracket....thats the collar??
That first pic makes it look like it's inside the bracket, but it's the same collar sitting right next to the bracket.

You can install the collar on either side to keep the bar from sliding sideways. On the front bar I installed them on the inside. On the rear, it was easier to put them on the outside.
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Do those collars make a noticeable difference?
 
Do those collars make a noticeable difference?
I've not had the Whiteline bars installed without the collars, so not sure what would happen if the collars are not there. The OEM anti-roll bars do not have any collars or end stops to keep them from sliding laterally, and I doubt anybody ever had any problem with them sliding around causing problems. The Whiteline front bar actually re-uses the OEM brackets, just different bushings. Possible reason could be the end link attachment points are adjustable, and depending on which position you insert the end links, the bars do come pretty close to the suspension arms, so if the bar is allowed to move laterally, I can see it could possibly come in contact.

Regardless, the collars are included with the Whiteline bars, so I saw no reason not to use them.
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
That is how it is: just following Eibach's instructions. I wouldn't want the ride to be stiffer than this. It's just right.
Did you install these yourself or take it to a shop? I'm a novice with working on cars. Does it void the warranty to put on sway bars?
 
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Did you install these yourself or take it to a shop? I'm a novice with working on cars. Does it void the warranty to put on sway bars?
If you're in the US, read up on the Magnuson Moss Warranty Act. Basically in short, no they can't just void your warranty because you put on aftermarket parts. They can deny a warranty repair if your aftermarket part is in direct result of failure. So if you put on a sway bar, and your engine seizes, they can't deny a warranty repair just because you have sway bars, they would have to prove the sway bars caused the failure. Also, that doesn't stop dealerships from trying to pull that crap as they will still try to claim your aftermarket part is the problem.

As for installing the sway bars. The fronts aren't so bad. The backs on the other hand can be a pain due to there being lack of room. The back took me and a buddy about 2-3 hours to complete.
 
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Actually, all the dealer has to show is PLAUSIBLE CAUSATION. That is... a direct link from your modification to the failure you are trying to claim on warranty.

So, if you show up with bad control arm bushings and the dealer service sees that you have aftermarket anti-roll bars installed, they have every right to deny warranty, on the grounds that your thicker/stiffer anti-roll bar added undue stress on the OEM components, thereby causing premature failure.

Could they prove unequivocally that it was the anti-roll bars that caused it? Of course not. They don't have to. Fact that it was a plausible direct causation is sufficient.

What they cannot do is deny warranty on your infotainment touchscreen because of the presence of anti-roll bars. There isn't an expert witness that could argue a plausible causation.
 
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