Lets talk tuning, piggy back vs ECU flash.

[Sales@Tork]

Wow really? After I went through everything with you in the other thread and pointed out that the intercooler, chargepiping, downpipes, midpipes, exhaust, and springs he runs would be in the thousands in labor to install and the same to remove every time you go in, and that my 18" rims are worth less than the 19" rims I removed? Talk about willfully ignorant.

Who has springs on their car? Bears did a retail pricing on all the parts you have on your car vs what we have. You lost the price battle now you have to change it to labor cost? Come on man dont get desperate.

 

[Tonkabob]

New wheels and tires all around. Fronts aren't driven by the transmission so there is no calculations for rotational mass when speaking of acceleration (cornering should be improved theoretically). So 4 lbs gained on rear tires but 16 lbs or so lost in the wheel.... I understand what you're saying about where the weight is I just don't know how that translates to his performance in these runs. I really can't imagine it's much.

Front wheels still count. It's still mass you have to move and rotate.
I counted all four wheels and 2 tires. The front tires should be the same or lighter but dont know the weight.

He is saying the further the rotational weight the heavier it feels to the car. If the 60 lbs is in your trunk or the very center of the hub its just 60 lbs. If its 60 lbs of tire weight it feels like 120 lbs to your acceration. On lighter cars 100lbs is a tenth in the 1/4. On our cars probably a bit less.

 

[Terry@BMS]

Just to be clear, did he change all 4 wheel and tires, 2 wheels and tires, or some combination in between? I was under the impression it was new wheels and tires all around.

I went through the numbers with these guys before, lol. The rears saved ~12# per tire/rim combo, fronts ~14# per tire/rim combo. Total savings around 52#.

On the rears the 285/35/18 tires are heavier than stock at the furthest point of rotation, and much of the weight savings in the rims is actually closer to the axis of rotation in the hub. So net rotational benefit, who knows. These things never seem to deliver as much as you expect.

Some around here think bolt on 18" rims and pickup 3mph or something but in my testing traps went from around 118mph with the OEM 19" rims/tires to around 119mph with the 18" RPF1 rims/tires.

 

[TorkMe]

My Youtube, comment from a viewer....

"@Tork Motorsports thanks.. and i have installed jb4 over the factory plugs and after two days i had a misfire and 3 plugs was damage a little bit.. now should I install the hks m40il or m45il?"

Mic drop...

 

[Sabz]

My Youtube, comment from a viewer....

"@Tork Motorsports thanks.. and i have installed jb4 over the factory plugs and after two days i had a misfire and 3 plugs was damage a little bit.. now should I install the hks m40il or m45il?"

Mic drop...

Oh so you don’t gap your plugs on the tune?

 

[Terry@BMS]

My Youtube, comment from a viewer....

"@Tork Motorsports thanks.. and i have installed jb4 over the factory plugs and after two days i had a misfire and 3 plugs was damage a little bit.. now should I install the hks m40il or m45il?"

Mic drop...

lol, one of my stock plug ceramics cracked literally a day after I got the car and I posted photos here. The factory plug ceramic breaking issue is not some JB4 specific thing, it's a defect with the factory plug gaps from the factory, can happen to any tuned Stinger, and is best resolved for $100 with our Denso plug kit: KIA Stinger Denso 5346 Spark Plugs - BurgerTuning.com

Alternatively you can just regap down your factory plugs to avoid the headache. This change is required with any tuning including yours.

 

[TorkMe]

Straight up, dude, you're the one who started mentioning this in this thread. Either put up or shut up.

And just FYI, some rando on Facebook saying "mah tune blew up mah carrrr!" isn't actual proof. Pictures and receipts. Otherwise, it's just hearsay and rumors and is honestly just making you look like a dick.

I will not mention it anymore, I will just post the screen shots and what is forwarded over to me.

I have tried to get people to publicly announce that they had a problem, but they do not want KIA finding out that they were running any modifications on their cars. So, outside of me forcing them to come forward... I can only share what people share with me.

I made this thread in an attempt to inform members of the differences and how one stacks up against another... everyone wants to start mud slinging. I am hear to inform people, you can take it or leave it.

 

[Terry@BMS]

Who has springs on their car? Bears did a retail pricing on all the parts you have on your car vs what we have. You lost the price battle now you have to change it to labor cost? Come on man dont get desperate.

You posted somewhere you have lowering springs on your car. In any event I'm sure there is plenty of stuff on there not in the list. If you want to convince people your car is less modified than ours then that's fine. The listing of modifications speak for themselves and customers can draw their own conclusions as to who is being up front and who is full of it.

 

[Sales@Tork]

You posted somewhere you have lowering springs on your car. In any event I'm sure there is plenty of stuff on there not in the list. If you want to convince people your car is less modified than ours then that's fine. The listing of modifications speak for themselves and customers can draw their own conclusions as to who is being up front and who is full of it.

LMAO Terry we have nothing to hide. Please find the post where we talked about having springs on our car? I would love to see this. I mean we have plenty of videos showing what our car has on it and even how to install everything. Yet no one has ever seen your car? I mean I could say its fully gutted... right?

 

[TorkMe]

lol, one of my stock plug ceramics cracked literally a day after I got the car and I posted photos here. The factory plug ceramic breaking issue is not tuning related, it's a defect with the factory plug gaps from the factory, and best resolved for $100 with our Denso plug kit: KIA Stinger Denso 5346 Spark Plugs - BurgerTuning.com

Alternatively you can just regap down your factory plugs to avoid the headache. This change is required with any tuning including Tork tuning.

They were regapped... and not 1 but 3 of them cracked.

Here is what NGK has to say about breaking ceramic:

"The engine starts knocking or detonation occurs, the temperature of the combustion gas will rise sharply and the plug, piston and valves will overheat. Overheating of the plug causes the center electrode to expand, and this can break the insulation."

Dare I need to go back and point out that mega knock is happening inside your logs, that you claim is not mega knock? To back up my claim of knock happening and the ignition cylinder trims adjusting for knock (given that I showed you that is the only way ignition trims happen)... you have simply backed up my claim of knock happening with your piggy back system.

So, you are saying that the plug gap... not the knock created from a poor tune is the reason for the plug breaking? The plug gap, is the case? I don't even know how to respond to that. The plug gap has zero effect on the ceramic part of a spark plug.

Then to add to that, you have a shameless sales post to push your Denso spark plugs?

 

[TorkMe]

Oh so you don’t gap your plugs on the tune?

Who said anything about not gapping them. This person did gap them, and they broke.

Spark plugs do not break from the size of the gap that is on them. Here is some information from NGK about plug damage:

"The engine starts knocking or detonation occurs, the temperature of the combustion gas will rise sharply and the plug, piston and valves will overheat. Overheating of the plug causes the center electrode to expand, and this can break the insulation."

Some cars don't even run a gap, they just ark to the top of the piston... so that can only mean one thing. Detonation or pre-ignition.

I didn't expect this to become a learning thread about tuning and vehicle performance, but... I will go there if that is what the community wants.

 

[Kamauxx]

My Youtube, comment from a viewer....

"@Tork Motorsports thanks.. and i have installed jb4 over the factory plugs and after two days i had a misfire and 3 plugs was damage a little bit.. now should I install the hks m40il or m45il?"

Mic drop...

Link? Video title? I'd like to see his comment for myself.

 

[TorkMe]

You posted somewhere you have lowering springs on your car. In any event I'm sure there is plenty of stuff on there not in the list. If you want to convince people your car is less modified than ours then that's fine. The listing of modifications speak for themselves and customers can draw their own conclusions as to who is being up front and who is full of it.

So, we are lying.

I remember not to long ago, we blew our engine. Then it was the transmission... now, we have parts on the car that we are not accounting for? Or mods that we are hiding from the members of this forum? How many lies are we going to have to endure before the competitors get in through their thick heads, we have nothing to hide, and we pride ourselves on being transparent.

I don't have to convince anyone of anything... I made this thread to inform people, to help with the questions that you obviously cannot answer. Trust me... we have no springs on the shop car, and if need be I will put mine car next to another Stinger just to prove that we are the same height, unless you think we would be putting it next to a Stinger that is lowered, lol.

 

[TorkMe]

Link? Video title? I'd like to see his comment for myself.

There you go.

 

[Terry@BMS]

They were regapped... and not 1 but 3 of them cracked.

Here is what NGK has to say about breaking ceramic:

"The engine starts knocking or detonation occurs, the temperature of the combustion gas will rise sharply and the plug, piston and valves will overheat. Overheating of the plug causes the center electrode to expand, and this can break the insulation."

Dare I need to go back and point out that mega knock is happening inside your logs, that you claim is not mega knock? To back up my claim of knock happening and the ignition cylinder trims adjusting for knock (given that I showed you that is the only way ignition trims happen)... you have simply backed up my claim of knock happening with your piggy back system.

So, you are saying that the plug gap... not the knock created from a poor tune is the reason for the plug breaking? The plug gap, is the case? I don't even know how to respond to that. The plug gap has zero effect on the ceramic part of a spark plug.

Then to add to that, you have a shameless sales post to push your Denso spark plugs?

Are you really this slow or is this some sort of act? I really hope it's an act. The ceramic breaking on our factory plugs is between the coil and the plug, not the ceramic tip in the combustion chamber. It's breaking because the coil isn't producing enough current to jump the huge gap at higher cylinder pressures, causing it to arc along the plug base to ground, cracking the ceramic and damaging the exterior of the plug in the process.

Plug damage due to detonation or running too high of an EGT is generally a melted electrode inside the combustion chamber. I've not seen any indication of any tuning related issues reading used Stinger plugs which would offer the first indication of any combustion related issues.

 

[TorkMe]

In case anyone wants to read up on Denso's website for the different reasons for broken spark plugs, here is a link.

Troubleshooting | Basic Knowledge | SPARK PLUG | Automotive Service Parts and Accessories | DENSO Global Website

 

[Kamauxx]

There you go.

So, full transparency.

He asked you what would happen if he left his plugs at stock gap (which he incorrectly assumed is 028).

You replied to him "nothing unless you install a piggy back".

He then said he'd already installed a JB4 and cracked his plugs.

You knew before posting your "mic drop" that he was running stock plugs with stock gap. Now it's looking like you're just throwing shit out there to see what sticks.

 

[TorkMe]

Are you really this slow or is this some sort of act? I really hope it's an act. The ceramic breaking on our factory plugs is between the coil and the plug, not the ceramic tip in the combustion chamber. It's breaking because the coil isn't producing enough current to jump the huge gap at higher cylinder pressures, causing it to arc along the plug base to ground, cracking the ceramic and damaging the exterior of the plug in the process.

Plug damage due to detonation or running too high of an EGT is generally a melted electrode inside the combustion chamber. I've not seen any indication of any tuning related issues reading used Stinger plugs which would offer the first indication of any combustion related issues.

Yes Terry, I am an idiot... keep telling yourself that.

 

[DaBears4Lyfe]

Snap shot of the comment in his Spark Plug Video

 

[TorkMe]

From Denso's website. I highlighted the important part in "red" for you.

Physical damage to ignition tip section

Appearance The electrode is bent and the insulator leg section is broken. Indentations are sometimes seen on the electrode.
Results Misfiring.
Cause The spark plug thread reach is too long for the engine head or there is some kind of foreign matter (a small bolt, nut, or the like) in the combustion chamber.