3.3TT Electronically Controlled Dump Valves - GOAT! - Review

[DaBears4Lyfe]

IMO if you want LOUD... If you want MEAN... with the ability to keep the stock notes this is 100% for you.

So... What can I say, but this has been my favorite Mod of any car EVER.

I had been looking for the perfect exhaust for me. Something that was original, LOUD, ZERO Drone, and the ability to be as quiet as stock when I wanted it. Well Boys I found it!

Thursday I was in communication with Chuck the owner of BadlanzHPE (515-491-8678), and they produce exhaust cutouts / Dump Valves. I ordered the following for our Stinger GT Set ups:

High Performance Exhaust Kit (Custom Y-Neck) - 2.5" / Stainless Steel / Dual Exhaust
$265.00

Turndown Pipes (Custom) Including Low Pro - 2.5" Stainless Steel
30.00 EA (Need 2)

I had the parts at my door Friday by noon with expedited shipping from BadlanzHPE. The customer service was on point. He worked with me to get these out within the hour so I can have to install on Saturday.

I took the cutouts to a local muffler shop (who do the most amazing welds) they charged me $50 a side to to the welding and install and another $40 bucks to do the wiring (yes i was lazy and you could do this yourself fairly easily).

These are not for the faint of heart. These are EXTREMELY LOUD and I'm sure loud enough to get pulled over if you are being an ass.

Graded Review
Exhaust Installation 3/10 - You need a professional who can weld and weld well if you want to have the same experience I am having. If you are a welder than im sure this would be a 10/10 for ease, but I am not. once cutouts are installed the installation of the motor and turndown is a 10/10 extremely easy.

Wiring Installation - 10/10 you simply run the wire across the cross bars by the mid pipes and up through the wheel well. Pull your ECU, run the wiring through the firewall and find where you want to hook up your switch.

Sound 15/10 - Like f*cking NASCAR They sound so damn good. Very loud, not ricey whatsoever just pure throaty throttle and the beauty of the Angel whistling through our turbos.

Drone - 8/10 - No drone if you close the valves lol. Yes these have drone if you run in sports mode valves open, you usually rev around 2k RPM when not hitting on the pedal there is zero drone when even opened up. On highways you can open the valves when you feel like getting the juices flowing and close them up when you want to just cruise. When closed there is zero difference from the Stock sound. ITs not almost like stock its exactly stock sound.

Customer Satisfaction - 10/10 - Nothing greater than dealing with Owners who take calls. The genuinely care about their business and make this smooth for you.

Overall Grade - 9/10 if this was something I could do the complete install it would be a 10/10 but I cant weld

I posted some vids on youtube, but my phone auto lowers background noise (exhaust) and raises the volume of my voice. Im having a friend do some videos next weekend with actually recording equipment for you guys.

Cold Start

Warm Start

IMO if you want LOUD... If you want MEAN... with the ability to keep the stock notes this is 100% for you.

If your interested in buying these tell Chuck you read a Kia Stinger Review from Jesse and ask him for a discount

THESE ALSO HAVE A 5 YEAR GUARANTEE ON THE MOTOR!

 

[Sabz]

This shop in Chicago?

 

[DaBears4Lyfe]

This shop in Chicago?

The shop that did the install is in Waukegan. The shop that sells the dump valves is in Iowa

 

[Kamauxx]

Cutouts were my initial plan for exhaust. I couldn't find a good location for them. It didn't even cross my mind to put them on the DPs.

Nice work!

 

[DaBears4Lyfe]

Cutouts were my initial plan for exhaust. I couldn't find a good location for them. It didn't even cross my mind to put them before the cats.

Nice work!

Ya man i worked this out in my head for a while but it fits nicely on the downpipes where they come down from the primaries.

 

[robz32]

Great install. Any footage of them with the car moving?

 

[DaBears4Lyfe]

Great install. Any footage of them with the car moving?

Like setting up a go pro under the car? I dont have any type of recording equipment besided my phone lol. Im have a buddy who does video recording for a living do some videos this weekend so ill see what he can do. He is doing this for the love of the community (stinger owner - Check out Vivid Videos on Youtube) so im not going to ask him for the world, but I will try to get you something like that.

 

[jatleson]

What shop in Waukegan? I'm not far from there. I hear Classic is the place to buy from in the area.

 

[DaBears4Lyfe]

What shop in Waukegan? I'm not far from there. I hear Classic is the place to buy from in the area.

Yup they really are! The shop is called J&R muffler

 

[Sabz]

Is there performance gains as well? And where is the switch

 

[DiabloStinger]

Wow... sounds like a big ass diesel truck! Kudos for having the balls to do this and I'm looking forward to the videos.

 

[DaBears4Lyfe]

Is there performance gains as well? And where is the switch

Ya buddy. I'm assuming some of the best gains in comparison to all the other exhaust since my pour out just after the primaries. The only thing that would be better at this point would be hfc, or removing the primaries, downpipes and a full exhaust = to about $3000. You get all this except modifications to primaries (which have lead to over boosting and plenty of engine issues) for about $400 installed.

I placed the switch on the pull put fuse door to the bottom and left of the steering wheel.

 

[DaBears4Lyfe]

Wow... sounds like a big ass diesel truck! Kudos for having the balls to do this and I'm looking forward to the videos.

Ya man it sounds sooo damn mean. Really the aggressive sound I wanted when someone pulls up next to me wanting to give it a go.

 

[Adamdan]

Nice, if it was me I would have installed these close to the mufflers so it’s not so loud and sounds like a muffler delete.

 

[DaBears4Lyfe]

Nice, if it was me I would have installed these close to the mufflers so it’s not so loud and sounds like a muffler delete.

There is a big restriction at the secondaries. For biggest gains without touching the primaries, I would suggest putting them where I did.

 

[Blitz]

Well that is very interesting. Can you get some vids driving and pushing it? Definitely interested.

Is this really the best spot? I hate that the exhaust just comes right into the door when stopped.

Also, how does this interact with CELs?

 

[DaBears4Lyfe]

Well that is very interesting. Can you get some vids driving and pushing it? Definitely interested.

Is this really the best spot? I hate that the exhaust just comes right into the door when stopped.

Also, how does this interact with CELs?

Yes this is the best spot in terms of performance. You can put these before the mufflers if you wanted but then all this really is, is just a muffler delete. Putting them before the secondaries means you can now bypass all that restriction in the downpipe, secondary cats, mid pipe, mufflers. All the stuff that restricts airflow. No issues with any over boosting or throwing any codes.

 

[Get Stung]

Ordered today, trouble is on the way...

 

[WildBill]

Ya buddy. I'm assuming some of the best gains in comparison to all the other exhaust since my pour out just after the primaries. The only thing that would be better at this point would be hfc, or removing the primaries, downpipes and a full exhaust = to about $3000. You get all this except modifications to primaries (which have lead to over boosting and plenty of engine issues) for about $400 installed.

I placed the switch on the pull put fuse door to the bottom and left of the steering wheel.

Nice work sourcing all the parts and showing us how you did it. I am also wondering what the gains would be. I agree that they could be quite good since you are removing any and all restriction from the secondaries and the rest of the exhaust.

I don't know that you would typically get the full benefit of the performance gain since the ECU won't be able to adapt to the changes that quickly. What do they say, you have to do 4 or 5 pulls on the dyno to get the ECU to adapt to the mod. Just saying that you can't pull up to a red light , open the cutouts, and expect the max performance possible. It should be way better than closed, but not like an adapted ECU.

In the end, a one off pull like mentioned above might be quicker with a car that has downpipes & an axle back. Since their car always runs with that setup the car will be primed and ready when the green light drops. Dunno.

I think we need 3 dragy runs. First with valves closed, second with the first run after opening them, then a third after 5 or 6 runs to see what the difference is.

 

[DaBears4Lyfe]

Nice work sourcing all the parts and showing us how you did it. I am also wondering what the gains would be. I agree that they could be quite good since you are removing any and all restriction from the secondaries and the rest of the exhaust.

I don't know that you would typically get the full benefit of the performance gain since the ECU will not be able to ever adapt to the changes that quickly. What do they say, you have to do 4 or 5 pulls on the dyno to get the ECU to adapt to the mod. Just saying that you can't pull up to a red light , open the cutouts, and expect the max performance possible. It should be way better than closed, but not like an adapted ECU.

In the end, a one off pull like mentioned above might be quicker with a car that has downpipes & an axle back. Since their car always runs with that setup the car will be primed and ready when the green light drops. Dunno.

I think we need 3 dragy runs. First with valves closed, second with the first run after opening them, then a third after 5 or 6 runs to see what the difference is.

Im actually dynoing my car to test out another product I will be doing a review on soon. Ill do an extra one with them open and no other addons. Wont be until January though.