Who's running hood pins?

DevLF

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Doing some future planning on which hood pins ill be purchasing when I get a CF hood. Is anyone here running them now, if so im curious on looks, and what our options look like for mounting, do we require drilling or is there a good factory spot to mount the pin in the engine bay?

I'm already dreading drilling into a brand new CF hood , hoping I won't have to align and drill inside the engine bay as well.
 
I don’t know if these were fitted to ford cars in the US but back in the 70’s but they fitted the to the high performance GT Falcons here in OZ & they are are very clean & functional set up.
You can buy retro sets on eBay (as per the attached example) out of OZ & with the exchange rate could be a stylish & cost effective solution.

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Have a look at Aerocatch...
 
I am running a set of Quik Latch QL-38's on my Seibon CF Hood. I ended up drilling the rad support frame for the pin install. Its tight underneath and you will have to trim the pins to fit, but it is the perfect spot to follow the contours on the hood.
 

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I am running a set of Quik Latch QL-38's on my Seibon CF Hood. I ended up drilling the rad support frame for the pin install. Its tight underneath and you will have to trim the pins to fit, but it is the perfect spot to follow the contours on the hood.
This is what I was looking for, thank you. How did you align the holes you drilled?
Also, did you remove the factory hydraulic hood lift assist thing? I heard it can cause cracking due to the amount of pressure its putting on it (since its designed to lift a much heavier hood)
 
This is what I was looking for, thank you. How did you align the holes you drilled?
Also, did you remove the factory hydraulic hood lift assist thing? I heard it can cause cracking due to the amount of pressure its putting on it (since its designed to lift a much heavier hood)

To align the holes I installed the pin where I wanted them and tried to guess at the height I figured they would protrude. Then I put grease on the tops of the pins and closed the hood onto them to leave a mark in the hood, center punched the grease mark and nervously drilled giant holes through the bottom layer my brand new hood : ) Then repeated the process for the top layer of the hood. For the top skin of the hood I drilled smaller pilot holes first so I could adjust the holes directly over the pins and then used the hole saw to make the final cut.

I removed the hood struts and just use an extendable hood prop, you can see it on the right side in the first pic with the hood open. Its a bit of an inconvenience but I am used to it now.
 
"Prop rod?! I'm going to zonk that one" --- Raiti's RIde. lol JK
 
Is there any option to help secure the hood without drilling it?
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
For the hood struts I got the aftermarket ones. They are "lightweight" but still are pretty strong. Not about to use a broomstick.
The Import Shark struts won't even lift my CF hood the last 2 inches without a push so they seem just right.
 
Is there any option to help secure the hood without drilling it?
The Seibon OEM doesn't move a bit at 130 mph. So hoping this style with small vents won't need them.
 
To align the holes I installed the pin where I wanted them and tried to guess at the height I figured they would protrude. Then I put grease on the tops of the pins and closed the hood onto them to leave a mark in the hood, center punched the grease mark and nervously drilled giant holes through the bottom layer my brand new hood : ) Then repeated the process for the top layer of the hood. For the top skin of the hood I drilled smaller pilot holes first so I could adjust the holes directly over the pins and then used the hole saw to make the final cut.

I removed the hood struts and just use an extendable hood prop, you can see it on the right side in the first pic with the hood open. Its a bit of an inconvenience but I am used to it now.
I means aligning the holes that you drilled into the support frame haha. Was there any references you used?
 
For the pins I measured to the edge of the front clip and the rad braces to make sure it was even
 
I've had the ark performance hood on for a few days. Only had it up to the low 80s, but it didn't flutter at all except when I was alongside a semi. If I were going in to a strong head wind, it might be a different story, so I will be putting pins in next week.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
What's the best low profile hood pins? I don't need the giant round ones but I do know that it needs some area to hold on to. Some of them are pretty unsightly.
 
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What's the best low profile hood pins? I don't need the giant round ones but I do know that it needs some area to hold on to. Some of them are pretty unsightly.
Areo catch is probably the cleanest / nicest IMHO

 
Sorry to dig up an old thread. I have a few questions regarding the Seibon OEM CF hood. First, does anyone know of anyone who has tested the speed at which this hood is able to withstand before experiencing a failure of the hood latch? I do track my car and regularly see speeds over 100+ mph. I have just recently installed this CF hood and CF rear deck lid, but have held back and not exceeded 75 mph on the highway to avoid a catastrophic failure. @Tonkabob you mentioned this hood doesn't appear to move at speeds up to 130 mph. Are you speaking from experience?

Also, I recently received a set of locking Quik Latch QL-38 low profile hood pins in the mail and plan on installing these with the hood. As far as placement goes for the pins, has anyone tried the lower bolt locations of the strut braces? Those bolt locations seem to be ideal for the hood pins with this particular hood to allow the ease of drilling into the lower and upper portions of the CF hood. The pins would also sit low enough to allow for easy removing/reinstallation of the front bumper. After removing the 5 push pins around the hood latch, the black shroud can be easily lifted over the pins to remove the front bumper since the hood pins have to be mounted so low. There is enough flex in that shroud to lift up and over the pins. Does anyone see a potential problem mounting the pins in those bolt locations? These latches are rated to 500 lbs of force per latch and should provide enough holding strength in that mounted location to prevent the hood from flying open from the wind resistance met on the front end of the car or going through the shark nose.

I am welcome to any further explanation as to why this may not be the best location for the hood pins to be mounted or if hood pins are even needed with this hood. I am playing it safe right now with speed since this is a new hood until I have a chance to get the hood pins installed or until someone tells me that I don't really have anything to worry about.
 
Sorry to dig up an old thread. I have a few questions regarding the Seibon OEM CF hood. First, does anyone know of anyone who has tested the speed at which this hood is able to withstand before experiencing a failure of the hood latch? I do track my car and regularly see speeds over 100+ mph. I have just recently installed this CF hood and CF rear deck lid, but have held back and not exceeded 75 mph on the highway to avoid a catastrophic failure. @Tonkabob you mentioned this hood doesn't appear to move at speeds up to 130 mph. Are you speaking from experience?

Also, I recently received a set of locking Quik Latch QL-38 low profile hood pins in the mail and plan on installing these with the hood. As far as placement goes for the pins, has anyone tried the lower bolt locations of the strut braces? Those bolt locations seem to be ideal for the hood pins with this particular hood to allow the ease of drilling into the lower and upper portions of the CF hood. The pins would also sit low enough to allow for easy removing/reinstallation of the front bumper. After removing the 5 push pins around the hood latch, the black shroud can be easily lifted over the pins to remove the front bumper since the hood pins have to be mounted so low. There is enough flex in that shroud to lift up and over the pins. Does anyone see a potential problem mounting the pins in those bolt locations? These latches are rated to 500 lbs of force per latch and should provide enough holding strength in that mounted location to prevent the hood from flying open from the wind resistance met on the front end of the car or going through the shark nose.

I am welcome to any further explanation as to why this may not be the best location for the hood pins to be mounted or if hood pins are even needed with this hood. I am playing it safe right now with speed since this is a new hood until I have a chance to get the hood pins installed or until someone tells me that I don't really have anything to worry about.
So far my hood has stayed on at 155mph. The under body panel did not however since it was poorly secured lol
 
Thank you for the reply @General_Vodka. I just finished up the installation of the hood pins today and took the car for a quick interstate pull. Only went to 110 mph, but the hood showed zero movement. I have all the confidence now that the hood won't move at higher speeds.

For anyone else who may be curious, the stock bolt locations in the strut braces closest to the hood latch will work for hood pins. I ended up using my tap and dye set and rethreaded the Quik-Latch pins so they could fit through the stock bolt hole locations. I have washers and nuts on top and bottom. Once I got the pins all mounted and the hood drilled, I adjusted the height of the pins to lock with the Quik-Latches once the hood was closed. The entire installation was done with the bumper off. That helps to adjust the pin height when you can see what's going on under the hood with the bumper off. After everything was properly adjusted and the hood was latching with the pins and the stock latch, I reinstalled the bumper. The black shroud easily fits over the hood pins when reinstalling the bumper. I am very happy with this installation vs fabricating a bracket for each side to mount the hood pins. I really didn't want to drill any holes in the black shroud (cover) or waste extra time fabricating brackets. It was much easier to rethread the pins. I can easily put the car back to stock since the factory bolts will still thread into place.

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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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