• Click HERE to ask your JB4 Question!
  • Car enthusiast? Join us on Cars Connected! iOS | Android | Desktop

3.3TT Who is on map 1 or 2 with no issues on stock plug gap?

StingerGT1Mike

Newish Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2019
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Anyone getting away with stock plug gap and running JB4 on map 1 or 2 with no misfire issues? Just wondering. Going to order my JB4 in the next few days.
 
Not loving the fact of getting into the engine bay and pulling hard to reach plugs on a brand new 50K vehicle. I'm still in the honeymoon phase where I don't want to even get a spec of dust on this car LOL.
 
______________________________
But you're happy to strap a piggyback tuning device to it and not take appropriate, recommended precautions?

I guess the counter is "What damage can you do by not following Terry's advice here?"

It's not a risk I'd be taking, personally. Even with the stock ECU tune people have had issues with large and uneven plug gaps, by running a tuned map, you're only increasing the chance of issues.
 
So I'm pretty sure Terry said map 1 is totally fine with stock plugs, not sure if he meant regapped stock plugs or totally stock. Map 2 is a no go with the stock plug plugs from what I understand.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Anyone getting away with stock plug gap and running JB4 on map 1 or 2 with no misfire issues? Just wondering. Going to order my JB4 in the next few days.

I ran map 1 on stock plugs with stock gap for a thousand miles or so (guessing here since it was so long ago). It didn't cause any issues. Everyone's results will vary based on fuel and actual gap of your stock plugs, of course.

My car was built in 2017 and this was in March-April of 2018. Who knows how your stock plugs/gap compares to mine.
 
I ran map 1 on stock plugs with stock gap for a thousand miles or so (guessing here since it was so long ago). It didn't cause any issues. Everyone's results will vary based on fuel and actual gap of your stock plugs, of course.

My car was built in 2017 and this was in March-April of 2018. Who knows how your stock plugs/gap compares to mine.
Were the gains from Map1 noticeable in your opinion?
 
Were the gains from Map1 noticeable in your opinion?

Yes, I could feel the difference. I also did a 0-60 comparison between stock and Map 1 and on the same stretch of road I dropped half a second, if I remember correctly.
 
Anyone getting away with stock plug gap and running JB4 on map 1 or 2 with no misfire issues? Just wondering. Going to order my JB4 in the next few days.

Right here. I've had my JB4 a year next month and have been running map 5 on stock plugs/gap almost the whole time. It's been over 15k miles and no hesitation, misfire, nothing.

Maybe one will blow eventually but so far so good.
 
50k car you want to baby.

Wants to skip spending $60 bucks on plugs to make an ecu altering device run appropriately.

Logic is flawed here.
 
______________________________
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
The level of, "I did this because I can..." is strong in this thread.
 
I ran Map 1 on stock plugs for about a month with no issue. But I was able to find a garage that did it for 150 dollars labor so it didn't make sense not to do it.
 
Just because you can do something doesn't mean you should. Based on the measured gaps of the factory plugs, heat range and the number of blown plugs, I would consider a plug swap and re-gap not so much a recommendation but rather a requirement of a tune.

It's not much different than running 87 octane on Map 2. Just because you can doesn't mean you should.
 
Okay what are the issues I've lost all power stock gap map 2, intakes only. Transmission jumps all over the place I'm wondering if that's all part of it. Not good getting extremely worried I f&*%ed something up bad. All started about 200 miles after install. I thought I was running map 1. I'm hoping this all is just a plug issue which will be resolved in two days.
 
I literally changed my plugs in 30 minutes first time, then, went back and had to tear out the coils and retorque the plugs as my son torqued them to 120 in lbs rather than the 220 I asked him to. Again total time second time 25 minutes. Super easy.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I literally changed my plugs in 30 minutes first time, then, went back and had to tear out the coils and retorque the plugs as my son torqued them to 120 in lbs rather than the 220 I asked him to. Again total time second time 25 minutes. Super easy.

Wow. Even with total disregard for the safety of any of the cables / connectors nearby, no way could I do it in 30 minutes. I could MAYBE get all the coils loose and removed in 30 minutes. I think I spent 30 minutes just wrangling the #3 (the one on the passenger side under the intake) coilpack out and back in.

What model do you have? I have a '19 GT1 AWD - perhaps something like an '18 GT RWD has less sensors/wires in the way?
 
______________________________
2019 awd gt2. I’ve done the plugs and had to go in and pull the coils and retorque a second time when my son mistook the inch to lb conversion to ft lbs and under torqued the plugs. Second time I had the coils off and retorqued in twenty minutes, and reassembled. Pulled the plugs first time and reinstalled in 30 minutes. You want to make a plug change a big deal then you can, but it’s about getting everything together and go at it. Work smart, work confident, know your abilities and READ the input from others. Worst part was pulling the bottom part of the passenger center coil when it separated the second time. Needle nose pliers were needed. Enjoy it!! It’s actually a great experience
 
Last edited:
Tips..

Warm the engine up to soften the rubber of the coils to allow easier flex and negotiate angles. If a coil separates, it easily pushes back together once out. They are very resilient.

Coils on passenger side closest to fire wall pulls back towards firewall as does the second found under the intake.

I removed all coils first, then moved to plugs.

use a 1/4” drive screwdriver with a 1/4 swivel to loosen and tighten the coil bolts.

Use two universal swivels, 3/8 with std extension and 6in ext.

Use an inch lb torque wrench, it’s size makes it more convenient one handed

Torque to 220-240 inch lbs.

Do not use any anti seize...it corrupts torque reading.

Absolutely use the bms spark plug wrench and gapped.


Softly and by hand only start the coil bolts so you don’t damage threads. And make sure you have a good grasp on them...when they fall into the engine bay it’s going to be an effort to find them.
 
I used the magnetic swivel to start all the plugs. I didn't torque them down to any specific value, though - just tight and a bit more. Similar to how the OEM plugs were. As I said - plugs were the easy part. If the coils were off, I could do the plugs in 10 minutes.

I read all the hints as well, and knew that the middle passenger coil pulls out the back - still doesn't make it easy! Thankfully, my coil didn't separate.

Seriously - I didn't encounter any major unexpected difficulties - just that the coil pack screws took 3 or 4 attempts each to find the best fit. Plus, first time, I'm being extra careful. I'm sure I could get it down to an hour or so next time.

Or maybe I'm a total loser who can't do anything at a reasonable speed - Terry says he can push the jb4 OBD cable through the grommet in 30 seconds. I took 10+ minutes trying different ways of getting the grommet off, 5 minutes pushing the grommet back on. Sure, next time I could do it faster, but 30 seconds? I can't even remove the trim cover and the ECU cable in 30 seconds..

Or maybe, DIY Internet time isn't quite the same as wallclock time :-)
 
Some people struggle sometimes more than others. Though I don’t understand at all your difficulty with the coil bolts it’s not to say it wasn’t difficult for you. Once you crack the tension on the bolt it screws out as easy as can be, and with a worklight you can Align the coil bolt holes easily, drop in the bolt, manually spin it until it bites, drop on the screwdriver and Bob’s your uncle. It’s literally 5 to 10 minutes to install all but center passenger bolt.. That one took a little more finesse but nothing extravagant whatsoever. Come on down we can have a couple beers and practice together LOL.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Back
Top