What suspension/wheel mods to do first? Biggest impact to driving experience?

[Snicklefritz]

When I first got the Whiteline bars, I did drill/tap the brackets to receive Zerk fittings. Also drilled the bushings to let the grease pass through. However, I found that while the zerk fitting worked great, it was next to impossible to pump the grease into the tight gap between the bushing and the bar.
View attachment 86651

So, I later changed them out with greasable bracket and fitting from Energy Suspension and Prothane. These not only have the Zerk fittings, the bushings also have grooves molded into them to allow grease to flow. These work much much better. IMO, all aftermarket anti-roll bars should come with these.
View attachment 86652

View attachment 86653

You did it again, the thorough work/joy of an enthusiast posting in-depth responses. Thanks, again.

 

[Snowwhite]

All anti-roll bars are basically a torsion spring that couples the two sides of the front or rear suspension together. Most OEM bushings are rubber to reduce NVH. Only some high performance sportscars come stock with polyurethane bushings.

The stock rubber bushings just appear to be fused to the bar. I doubt they actually are. Even if they are, the rubber has enough flexibility in it to function as intended, as they don't need to mover laterally.

The bushings on the stock bars are melted or glued to the bar, but probably for noise elimination as I don’t think the rubber can provide enough resistance to change the roll stiffness. It can’t squeak or groan if the bar is not moving with respect to the bushing…

I used yellow teflon tape and silicone grease on mine. I haven’t had to lube them since.

 

[bfglitch]

The Ark bushings have groves in them as well although I didn't drill into them to add zerk fittings. I installed them a couple years ago and recently hit about 25k miles. I installed the bars around 2k miles I think. I was also going to wrap with them yellow teflon tape + the silicone grease that was provided with the kit but neglected to pick up the teflon tape. So far I haven't had any noise from them and I have driven the car in plenty of weather.

 

[blnewt]

Just installed F&R Whiteline sway bars today on our 21 G70, only driven it a bit but damn, what a difference! Car feels so solid and planted now and although I have it set on soft for both bars it's such a dramatic change. Took about 2.5 hrs to change both out, that one rear nut by the fuel lines was tight but not bad at all w/ this setup, a 14mm flex ratchet combo wrench , another combo wrench to provide extra torque (ghetto style), and a flex regular ratchet for the other 3 nuts/bolts . I removed the two fender liner cap nuts and the nut holding the fuel lines, allowed a bit more room. Really was a simple install but did scrape up my lower arms a bit as it is tight in there.


I like that the Whiteline bars are solid (not tubes), and although they don't have zerk fittings I wrapped some teflon gas tape, applied the included front bushing grease and used copper anti-seize on the rear bar, hopefully keep the squeaks at bay
This is the place I got the set, was the best price I found, shipped out next day and no shipping or tax so 340.43 to the door!

Whiteline 18-19 Kia Stinger (Incl. GT/GT1/GT2/Premium) Front & Rear Sway Bar Kit (Sway Bars ONLY) #BKK002

Whiteline 18-19 Kia Stinger (Incl. GT/GT1/GT2/Premium) Front & Rear Sway Bar Kit (Sway Bars ONLY) #BKK002

www.lmperformance.com

 

[Snicklefritz]

Just installed F&R Whiteline sway bars today on our 21 G70, only driven it a bit but damn, what a difference! Car feels so solid and planted now and although I have it set on soft for both bars it's such a dramatic change. Took about 2.5 hrs to change both out, that one rear nut by the fuel lines was tight but not bad at all w/ this setup, a 14mm flex ratchet combo wrench , another combo wrench to provide extra torque (ghetto style), and a flex regular ratchet for the other 3 nuts/bolts . I removed the two fender liner cap nuts and the nut holding the fuel lines, allowed a bit more room. Really was a simple install but did scrape up my lower arms a bit as it is tight in there.
View attachment 87723

I like that the Whiteline bars are solid (not tubes), and although they don't have zerk fittings I wrapped some teflon gas tape, applied the included front bushing grease and used copper anti-seize on the rear bar, hopefully keep the squeaks at bay
This is the place I got the set, was the best price I found, shipped out next day and no shipping or tax so 340.43 to the door!

Whiteline 18-19 Kia Stinger (Incl. GT/GT1/GT2/Premium) Front & Rear Sway Bar Kit (Sway Bars ONLY) #BKK002

Whiteline 18-19 Kia Stinger (Incl. GT/GT1/GT2/Premium) Front & Rear Sway Bar Kit (Sway Bars ONLY) #BKK002

www.lmperformance.com

this is the first time that I have read of a G70 sway bar install described. and you mention that the fuel line / left side is tight. I wonder if the Stinger bitch of a nut is worse than the G70 or identical?

 

[blnewt]

Just installed F&R Whiteline sway bars today on our 21 G70, only driven it a bit but damn, what a difference! Car feels so solid and planted now and although I have it set on soft for both bars it's such a dramatic change. Took about 2.5 hrs to change both out, that one rear nut by the fuel lines was tight but not bad at all w/ this setup, a 14mm flex ratchet combo wrench , another combo wrench to provide extra torque (ghetto style), and a flex regular ratchet for the other 3 nuts/bolts . I removed the two fender liner cap nuts and the nut holding the fuel lines, allowed a bit more room. Really was a simple install but did scrape up my lower arms a bit as it is tight in there.
View attachment 87723

I like that the Whiteline bars are solid (not tubes), and although they don't have zerk fittings I wrapped some teflon gas tape, applied the included front bushing grease and used copper anti-seize on the rear bar, hopefully keep the squeaks at bay
This is the place I got the set, was the best price I found, shipped out next day and no shipping or tax so 340.43 to the door!

Whiteline 18-19 Kia Stinger (Incl. GT/GT1/GT2/Premium) Front & Rear Sway Bar Kit (Sway Bars ONLY) #BKK002

Whiteline 18-19 Kia Stinger (Incl. GT/GT1/GT2/Premium) Front & Rear Sway Bar Kit (Sway Bars ONLY) #BKK002

www.lmperformance.com

this is the first time that I have read of a G70 sway bar install described. and you mention that the fuel line / left side is tight. I wonder if the Stinger bitch of a nut is worse than the G70 or identical?

I think it's the same from the epic thread on this site that has a few different ways to conquer that nut. The last few posts mentioned using that 14mm flex head combo wrench and that was "the ticket", and that extra combo wrench on the end added just the right amount of leverage to get that nut moving. Took about 10 minutes from start to finish to get that nut removed (not including the time it took to jack it up, remove the tire and remove the 2 fender liner nuts and fuel line nut).

 

[Volfy]

this is the first time that I have read of a G70 sway bar install described. and you mention that the fuel line / left side is tight. I wonder if the Stinger bitch of a nut is worse than the G70 or identical?

Our G70 and Stinger anti-roll bar installs were identical.

 

[socalvn]

It's not as hard as people make it out to be

 

[blnewt]

It's not as hard as people make it out to be

Agree, and I have bitter old man hands (and arms) lol.

 

[LordKOTL]

It's not as hard as people make it out to be

I think with the right tools to get at that matriarchal copulating nut and it's not that difficult.

If you dont have the right tools, you'll gave a bad time.

 

[blnewt]

I think with the right tools to get at that matriarchal copulating nut and it's not that difficult.

If you dont have the right tools, you'll gave a bad time.

I conquered the "devil bolt" on my previous infiniti G37, was the top drivers side catalytic converter bolt and required about 4 ft (including an impact wobble) of extensions, special 50:50 acetone ATF rust breaker, and a breaker bar w/ a cheater pipe applied. This sway bolt was tight to get in there but easy w/ that flex head 14mm and that combo wrench on the end.

 

[LordKOTL]

I conquered the "devil bolt" on my previous infiniti G37, was the top drivers side catalytic converter bolt and required about 4 ft (including an impact wobble) of extensions, special 50:50 acetone ATF rust breaker, and a breaker bar w/ a cheater pipe applied. This sway bolt was tight to get in there but easy w/ that flex head 14mm and that combo wrench on the end.

The combo I used wasn't as easy; making me wish I had your combo.

 

[blnewt]

The combo I used wasn't as easy; making me wish I had your combo.

I'm just glad I saw that post in this forum w/ that tool recommendation, I may have eventually used it since I have it on hand, but may have went a few other routes prior.

 

[Snowwhite]

The combo I used wasn't as easy; making me wish I had your combo.

I managed OK with a flex wrench and a wobble extension, as I posted on the long thread. it's not that bad if you have the tools. Just a little frustrating.

 

[LordKOTL]

I managed OK with a flex wrench and a wobble extension, as I posted on the long thread. it's not that bad if you have the tools. Just a little frustrating.

The ratchet extension I had worked to get something in there and to pry up the evap line, but it didn't have a wobble and all of my wobble extensions were too big to fit, so as aforementioned it was a 3 hour pain in the ass for that one single bolt for me.

Hence why I'm glad of this thread and the source of my comment: the right collection of tools will make it reasonably easy. The wrong set, and you might as well pizza box when you should have french fried: you're gonna have a bad time.

 

[Dubso]

Does anyone have the part numbers for the Energy Suspension and Prothane bushings and mounts? Depending on the swaybar thickness of course. Also, what is the endlink consensus? Get them, or don’t really need them?

 

[Volfy]

Does anyone have the part numbers for the Energy Suspension and Prothane bushings and mounts? Depending on the swaybar thickness of course.

It absolutely depends on which mfr's aftermarket anti-roll bars you are buying the bushings for.

Mine are Whiteline, which are 24mm front and 18mm rear, so I got these greaseable bushings from Amazon:

Front: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CN5FUU
Rear: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0038761HI

IMO, it's pointless to get the non-greaseable ones.

Both Energy Suspension and Prothane make bushings of all the popular sizes. I bought them mix because that was what Amazon showed in stock at the time. Quality of the two makes are comparable, and I would have no problem buying either brand, if I need another set.

Also, what is the endlink consensus? Get them, or don’t really need them?

Consensus? I'm not sure you are gonna get everybody to agree.

I can only tell you from my own experience with our two Stingers and one G70 - all running Whiteline anti-roll bars, all running stock OEM end links. We've tracked all 3 cars. If stock end links have weakness problem handling chassis loads at the limits, I would've known about it by now.

Adjustable end links are used primarily for corner balancing race cars with the (off-center) weight of the DRIVER on-board. Trying to do that on a general-purpose street car (even when tracked occasionally) is a pointless exercise.

 

[SRV]

When it comes to new rims, just buy the set that you think looks best - make sure the width and offsets are good.

There is NO NEED to buy lightweight rims expecting to feel a performance increases in a car that weight 4000+ lbs - you will not feel it at all.

On the other hand, buying a set of good looking rims will have you smiling every time you see the car - money well spent! Just don't let anyone deceive you about perceived performance increases with lightweight rims for a street-driven car.

 

[blnewt]

When it comes to new rims, just buy the set that you think looks best - make sure the width and offsets are good.

There is NO NEED to buy lightweight rims expecting to feel a performance increases in a car that weight 4000+ lbs - you will not feel it at all.

On the other hand, buying a set of good looking rims will have you smiling every time you see the car - money well spent! Just don't let anyone deceive you about perceived performance increases with lightweight rims for a street-driven car.

Disagree on not noticing the weight change, I do, it's not drastic but there is a difference IME.

 

[Volfy]

Much depends on how - and where - you drive the car. For everyday driving, over normal city streets and hwys, most driver probably won't notice much.

Besides, it isn't all about accel/decel performance either. Lighter unsprung weight improves suspension articulation control, which affect handling and even ride quality.

Just because LOOKS are more important to SOME doesn't mean it is so for ALL. But if that's you, by all means, do what matters to you. Just don't try to convince the rest of us that physics don't matter on a 4000lbs car.