Upgrade Path

[Maddog2873]

Hi All,

Just got my Stinger GT1 AWD last week and I am enjoying it so far. This is my first AWD, Turbo, vehicle and I am curious what a standard upgrade path looks like for this type of car. For example, I also own a 2011 Camaro SS and my upgrades looked like this:

#1. Air Intake - no tune required
#2. Catback exhaust - no tune required
#3. Long tube headers - tune required
#4. Cam - tune required

What does your standard upgrade path look like for this type of car? I would have assumed air intake first, but I have read some example where people have done other parts first. My end goal is to add what I can without making the car much louder and without requiring a tune. I know on the camaro, a lot of upgrades worked together to make better overall gains, and I imagine the same holds true with this car.

Also, I have seen people talk about upgraded downpipes, but I have no idea what that is, as from my point of view, it just looks like part of the exhaust system.

Thanks for any input you can offer!

 

[DarthVaderIX]

Welcome to the forum:

This forum is really unique as most people in here have a different view of performance than on others. It’s a tad watered down here.

Based on what you want to do I would get yourself a intake of your choice and the secondary “down pipes “ incorrectly called down pipes on this forum. They are just mid pipes that remove the secondary converters. It won’t net you the benefits without a “tune” which we don’t truly have at this point in time. But the jb4 which is a piggy back from Burgertuning.com is going to get you the most benefit.

 

[eflyguy]

There is no "standard", it appears there is a fair mix of people starting with tunes (mostly piggy-back but some ECU flash) and others starting with intakes or/and exhaust system mods.

I myself went with an ECU flash tune and drop-in high flow filters.

 

[terrelltechsup]

You don't use long tube headers with a turbo. I have yet to see any kind of upgraded manifold for sale. I would do catch can, intake, turbo back exhaust(with High flow Cat if you want to stay out of overboost), spark plugs, JB4, Meth, lighter wheels/better tires in that order personally.

 

[DarthVaderIX]

The overboost thing is really irrelevant and just going to confuse people. Again, something I’ve never heard of before being on this forum and all I have had is turbo cars since 1999..

 

[terrelltechsup]

The overboost thing is really irrelevant and just going to confuse people. Again, something I’ve never heard of before being on this forum and all I have had is turbo cars since 1999..

I would say it is relevant because the ECU will put the car in limp mode if it throws an overboost code. Is there a tune out there that can prevent this from occurring? Tork had to put the factory downpipe back on because of it.

 

[DarthVaderIX]

I believe all the tuning options can overcome this now.

 

[terrelltechsup]

Wow, news to me. Learn something new everyday.

 

[ZyroXZ2]

Just to set your expectations correctly: this block (and many other newer ones, too) have the manifold built into the block (integrated manifolds or something like that technically speaking). You basically bolt to the "collector" (it's molded that way into a single port exit from the block), if you will, on the side of the block. There are no headers or manifolds whatsoever.

However, I'm surprised that you're a little confused on downpipes: even your Camaro had downpipes. All cars have them, and they're aptly named because they basically go from the block "down" to meet the underbody exhaust system. If you did long tube headers and a cam on your Camaro and never upgraded to a bigger downpipe (usually along with a high flow cat or cat delete), you had a major chokepoint there...

 

[Maddog2873]

Just to set your expectations correctly: this block (and many other newer ones, too) have the manifold built into the block (integrated manifolds or something like that technically speaking). You basically bolt to the "collector" (it's molded that way into a single port exit from the block), if you will, on the side of the block. There are no headers or manifolds whatsoever.

However, I'm surprised that you're a little confused on downpipes: even your Camaro had downpipes. All cars have them, and they're aptly named because they basically go from the block "down" to meet the underbody exhaust system. If you did long tube headers and a cam on your Camaro and never upgraded to a bigger downpipe (usually along with a high flow cat or cat delete), you had a major chokepoint there...

With my Camaro, the headers come out of the motor, and go down connected directly into the catback exhaust. the only thing in between the headers and the exhaust is HF cats. Where would the downpipe be in that scenario?

 

[ZyroXZ2]

With my Camaro, the headers come out of the motor, and go down connected directly into the catback exhaust. the only thing in between the headers and the exhaust is HF cats. Where would the downpipe be in that scenario?

Ohhh, are these equal-length longtubes where the collector is past where the OE downpipe would have met the catback? That would explain my misunderstanding, lol

 

[terrelltechsup]

Typically long tube headers are exactly as the name implies. They are individual mandrel bent tubes coming off the exhaust manifold that join in a collector(moving it further away from the engine) which is then typically followed by the catalytic converter and then subsequently the rest of the exhaust. This is alternative to say a rams horn where the collector is right there next to the exhaust ports. In NA motors exhaust scavenging is a thing and tuning it is important when making more power. In turbocharged vehicles you throw all that out the window. All you need to know is that you want the least restrictive way to get the exhaust gases away from the turbo as possible. Mandrel bending is more important in turbos than NA so you want to stay away from crimped pipes.

With regards to Camshaft options, you aren't going to find any as of right now. Your money will be spent on finding ways to shove more air/fuel into the cylinder and tuning for that increase in air/fuel. Your next enemy is maintaining traction and then it is heat.

 

[StungBlueGT2]

Hi All,

Just got my Stinger GT1 AWD last week and I am enjoying it so far. This is my first AWD, Turbo, vehicle and I am curious what a standard upgrade path looks like for this type of car. For example, I also own a 2011 Camaro SS and my upgrades looked like this:

#1. Air Intake - no tune required
#2. Catback exhaust - no tune required
#3. Long tube headers - tune required
#4. Cam - tune required

What does your standard upgrade path look like for this type of car? I would have assumed air intake first, but I have read some example where people have done other parts first. My end goal is to add what I can without making the car much louder and without requiring a tune. I know on the camaro, a lot of upgrades worked together to make better overall gains, and I imagine the same holds true with this car.

Also, I have seen people talk about upgraded downpipes, but I have no idea what that is, as from my point of view, it just looks like part of the exhaust system.

Thanks for any input you can offer!

Congrats on your new Stinger and welcome to the "Stinger Hive"!

I know where your coming from as I had to adjust my idea of an "upgrade path" coming from tuning N/A V8s myself. You will learn quickly that our twin turbo V6 is a completely different animal then N/A engines, so the direction & reason for certain upgrades varies significantly. Generally, reducing airflow restrictions & adding boost are your best ways to significantly increase power.

I understand you dont want to be required to "tune" your car, however on turbo cars like the Stinger safely adding boost is the easiest/cheapest way to drastically increase HP & TQ. Luckily a full ECU tune is not necessary and a plug-n-play “piggyback” chip will maximize gains even without any other upgrades. Some people start with this upgrade over intakes/exhaust, or ONLY do this upgrade since an extra 70-95whp/100wtq from a chip is impressive enough.

With that said and based on keeping noise down, I'd suggest the following upgrade path.
1) Intakes- Most offer similar gains of about 10-15whp stock, and 15-20whp with extra boost from a chip/tune. These range from ~$100(DIY version I use) to ~$600(JT).
2) Catless midpipes/Secondary "Downpipes(DPs)" only- Adds 20-30whp. The second highest bolt-on power gain possible & wont cause "CEL" like catless primary DPs. Often used alone(No catback) for big gains but minimal increase in exhaust volume. These range from $250(exhaust shop) to ~$500(SSR)
3) or 1) Piggyback/chip- Adds 70-95whp stock and the Stinger pushes almost 500whp with supporting mods. Easily the most power gains possible from any mod available at this time. Quick plug-n-play install & removal, but regapped OEM or new plugs @.022-.026 recommended. These range from ~$500(JB4) to ~$1200(Lap3 Pro).

I could continue if more than 450whp is preferable, but think this would be a great start. There are many options on top of these examples available and just browse the tuning threads for tons of info.

Hope this helps and happy tuning!

 

[Maddog2873]

^^^^ That right there is a great post. Thanks for the info @StungBlueGT2

 

[washguy]

MadDog Heres my take.....Ive got a stroked loud azz bad to the bone z06...and with the Stinger ive opted for the sleeper street car that doesn't have a loud exhaust,and shake your teeth out at the same time....so when the car had 200 miles on it I installed the JB4 piggyback and K&N drop in filters...that's it....this car with the JB4 is all you could ever want with out the noise end of story....install is easy...it gives you tremendous gains with you being in charge of the power output...the unit uninstalls in mins for that trip to the dealer too. You must be super careful of the catbacks and most all exhaust kits for the dreaded drone...its not pleasant at all.... yes the down pipe should give you some hp without the dreaded drone...but my first step if I was you would be to get the JB4... Wash

 

[Maddog2873]

Thanks @washguy. I plan on keeping the Stinger quiet. My Camaro makes all the noise I could ever want, and all that the wife will ever allow, lol. I do think I will go the chip route when ready, but may add an intake along with it. Sounding like all I will do for the near future.

Thanks for the input!

 

[outlaw4728]

Congrats on your new Stinger and welcome to the "Stinger Hive"!

I know where your coming from as I had to adjust my idea of an "upgrade path" coming from tuning N/A V8s myself. You will learn quickly that our twin turbo V6 is a completely different animal then N/A engines, so the direction & reason for certain upgrades varies significantly. Generally, reducing airflow restrictions & adding boost are your best ways to significantly increase power.

I understand you dont want to be required to "tune" your car, however on turbo cars like the Stinger safely adding boost is the easiest/cheapest way to drastically increase HP & TQ. Luckily a full ECU tune is not necessary and a plug-n-play “piggyback” chip will maximize gains even without any other upgrades. Some people start with this upgrade over intakes/exhaust, or ONLY do this upgrade since an extra 70-95whp/100wtq from a chip is impressive enough.

With that said and based on keeping noise down, I'd suggest the following upgrade path.
1) Intakes- Most offer similar gains of about 10-15whp stock, and 15-20whp with extra boost from a chip/tune. These range from ~$100(DIY version I use) to ~$600(JT).
2) Catless midpipes/Secondary "Downpipes(DPs)" only- Adds 20-30whp. The second highest bolt-on power gain possible & wont cause "CEL" like catless primary DPs. Often used alone(No catback) for big gains but minimal increase in exhaust volume. These range from $250(exhaust shop) to ~$500(SSR)
3) or 1) Piggyback/chip- Adds 70-95whp stock and the Stinger pushes almost 500whp with supporting mods. Easily the most power gains possible from any mod available at this time. Quick plug-n-play install & removal, but regapped OEM or new plugs @.022-.026 recommended. These range from ~$500(JB4) to ~$1200(Lap3 Pro).

I could continue if more than 450whp is preferable, but think this would be a great start. There are many options on top of these examples available and just browse the tuning threads for tons of info.

Hope this helps and happy tuning!

With the piggyback/chip, does it 'hurt' the engine/components in the long run since you are pushing the car harder than stock?

 

[Spaceme17]

With the piggyback/chip, does it 'hurt' the engine/components in the long run since you are pushing the car harder than stock?

No. The 3.3 liter lamba II engine is quite stout. And the JB4, Racechip, etc. is made to work within the limitations of the stock engine with a wide margin for error.