Turbo not working?

[Pearl]

Having a similar issue currently where occasionally I'll accelerate and I can feel the boost build like normal, and then it just drops and the turbos no longer work. If I stop and restart the vehicle, everything returns to normal. Any thoughts on this?

Did you get to the bottom of this? I’m having this issue right now. Not sure what’s going on maybe a leak somewhere ? I’ll get up to 6k rpm then just drop and no more boost or turbo.

 

[Vermillion]

Did you get to the bottom of this? I’m having this issue right now. Not sure what’s going on maybe a leak somewhere ? I’ll get up to 6k rpm then just drop and no more boost or turbo.

Why would you receive boost above 6K RPM?

Max. power, bhp at rpm

242 / 6,200

361 / 6,000

197 / 3,800

Max. torque, Nm at rpm

353 / 1,400 - 4,000

510 / 1,300 - 4,500

440 / 1,750 - 2,750

 

[Pearl]

Why would you receive boost above 6K RPM?

Max. power, bhp at rpm

242 / 6,200

361 / 6,000

197 / 3,800

Max. torque, Nm at rpm

353 / 1,400 - 4,000

510 / 1,300 - 4,500

440 / 1,750 - 2,750

Turbo goes out once I hit 6k rpm at about 100 mph. Then when I get back on the gas I don’t get any boost or turbo . Blow off valves seems to be very low you can barley hear the pshhh

 

[Vermillion]

Understood, I'd have to see the engine specs to define any proper analysis but as it's a petrol the most likely setup is a sequential twin (hence the wad of torque at the bottom). If the falloff is stated to be 6K (or thereabout) RPM it will electronically open the wastegate as the secondary turbo reaches maximum rotations per minute hence it would fall off. Sorry, I did read "up to 6K" although for some reason thought you were pushing over.

Although, when letting the revs settle pressing the loud button should spool up the turbo again. Are you noticing issues whenever you hit 6K RPM irrelevant of pace? Anyway, it seems like you need a diagnostician to check it over.

 

[Pearl]

Understood, I'd have to see the engine specs to define any proper analysis but as it's a petrol the most likely setup is a sequential twin (hence the wad of torque at the bottom). If the falloff is stated to be 6K (or thereabout) RPM it will electronically open the wastegate as the secondary turbo reaches maximum rotations per minute hence it would fall off. Sorry, I did read "up to 6K" although for some reason thought you were pushing over.

Although, when letting the revs settle pressing the loud button should spool up the turbo again. Are you noticing issues whenever you hit 6K RPM irrelevant of pace? Anyway, it seems like you need a diagnostician to check it over.

Yes I’ll step on it and turbo and boost will cut out. I’m thinking it’s a leaks somewhere

 

[Pearl]

Yes I’ll step on it and turbo and boost will cut out. I’m thinking it’s a leaks somewhere

I have up fmic, bov, ark mids , mbrp cat . Was wondering is a tune needed ? Maybe even new plugs

 

[Vermillion]

Yes I’ll step on it and turbo and boost will cut out. I’m thinking it’s a leaks somewhere

Most likely but it could also be a sensor, actuator getting stuck or something up with the large turbo. The only way to find out it is to buy a leak tester, there's plenty of guides out there. On a somewhat unrelated issue I have come across spark plug "gapping" threads with JB4's / modded cars (sometimes stock) causing misfires which is potentially something else to read up on ..

Safest thing to do is let Kia have a look at it if you're not fully confident with engine mechanics and design.

 

[Timothy1_17]

Having a similar issue currently where occasionally I'll accelerate and I can feel the boost build like normal, and then it just drops and the turbos no longer work. If I stop and restart the vehicle, everything returns to normal. Any thoughts on this?

Same thing happened to me a few days ago. I was driving around 40mph and went to punch it and the car barely took off. I looked at my boost gauge on the instrument cluster and it was reading 0. I tried flooring it a few more times, and nothing. I pulled up to a stop sign, put it in park, turned off the car, waited a few seconds, turned it back on, did it's system check (no codes/errors) and then I took off with full boost/power. It's been driving as it should, with normal boost, ever since. If it happens again I'll take it to the dealer to have them check it out.

 

[robz32]

Having a similar issue currently where occasionally I'll accelerate and I can feel the boost build like normal, and then it just drops and the turbos no longer work. If I stop and restart the vehicle, everything returns to normal. Any thoughts on this?

Same thing happened to me a few days ago. I was driving around 40mph and went to punch it and the car barely took off. I looked at my boost gauge on the instrument cluster and it was reading 0. I tried flooring it a few more times, and nothing. I pulled up to a stop sign, put it in park, turned off the car, waited a few seconds, turned it back on, did it's system check (no codes/errors) and then I took off with full boost/power. It's been driving as it should, with normal boost, ever since. If it happens again I'll take it to the dealer to have them check it out.

The issue is caused by the factory diverter vale or aftermarket BOV staying open. Basically putting the car into limp mode. This is a safety feature built in the ECU to prevent the engine from blowing smithereens. The times I've seen this happen is during cold weather 33F and below and when driving semi-hard.

That's why when you shut off the engine the boost comes back, as all the pressure within the intake manifold gets released and the DV or BOV closes. Perhaps the ECU detects the AFRs going too lean with the colder air and it enters the safety mode.

Are those experiencing the issue modified? (CAI, Intercooler, BOV, VT ducts, etc)

 

[Timothy1_17]

Thanks for the quick reply and explanation. It was pretty cold outside (20's) when it happened.

No performance mods yet, pretty much stock. Only thing I've done to it so far are center wheel caps, BMS billet oil filler cap and OEM splash guards.

 

[Pearl]

Same thing happened to me a few days ago. I was driving around 40mph and went to punch it and the car barely took off. I looked at my boost gauge on the instrument cluster and it was reading 0. I tried flooring it a few more times, and nothing. I pulled up to a stop sign, put it in park, turned off the car, waited a few seconds, turned it back on, did it's system check (no codes/errors) and then I took off with full boost/power. It's been driving as it should, with normal boost, ever since. If it happens again I'll take it to the dealer to have them check it out.

Have you added any mods ? If so what have you added so far ?

 

[Hotrodfool]

Mine has done the same thing. deleted secondary cat, intake, and tune. But it was doing this before the tune. it works fine for a while then it happens again.

 

[G-698933]

Thanks for the advice everyone - I've definitely tried it in sport mode and the paddles were a good suggestion. I uploaded a video of me doing what is theoretically launch mode. I'm definitely supposed to be in a GT Got the badge and the price and the Brembos, etc.

I have an appointment with the dealer next Monday - hopefully they can help me out.

So what did the dealer say? I’m having the same problem with mine.

 

[BrandonC]

So what did the dealer say? I’m having the same problem with mine.

Just bought my 2022 Kia stinger GT1. I start driving it and everything is fine, and the turbos are working… Within 5 to 10 minutes of driving, it feels like the turbos don’t work in the car becomes very sluggish. So frustrating. I took it into the dealership yesterday because the check engine light came on. They simply turned it off and didn’t know why it was occurring.

 

[MerlintheMad]

^^Howdy and welcome. Show them this thread. At least that way they won't treat you like some moron with a yooge imagination.

 

[D.J.]

Just bought my 2022 Kia stinger GT1. I start driving it and everything is fine, and the turbos are working… Within 5 to 10 minutes of driving, it feels like the turbos don’t work in the car becomes very sluggish. So frustrating. I took it into the dealership yesterday because the check engine light came on. They simply turned it off and didn’t know why it was occurring.

What was the code they cleared?

Is the issue still present?

 

[GENESISSTINGER]

The issue is caused by the factory diverter vale or aftermarket BOV staying open. Basically putting the car into limp mode. This is a safety feature built in the ECU to prevent the engine from blowing smithereens. The times I've seen this happen is during cold weather 33F and below and when driving semi-hard.

That's why when you shut off the engine the boost comes back, as all the pressure within the intake manifold gets released and the DV or BOV closes. Perhaps the ECU detects the AFRs going too lean with the colder air and it enters the safety mode.

Are those experiencing the issue modified? (CAI, Intercooler, BOV, VT ducts, etc)

That's good info and makes sense. I have a 22 G70 3.3T and noticed this thread. 2500 miles, only mod is BMS cold air intakes (no tune or anything). This "no boost" issue happened to me twice, practically in the exact same spot on the way to work but weeks apart, and practically exact same temps (33 F or lower). Also after 15 mins of driving, remote started.

I will be sitting at a long red light, and when I go to accelerate out of it, I will noticed my boost gauge barely moving. One wouldnt even notice, but since I'm in tune w/ my car I gave it some more gas and realized the acceleration felt like a weak NA car. At this point it drives fine, no CEL, its just weaker. Sport modes don't change it. Pedal to the floor doesn't fix it. A simple restart does. You turn the car on and off, and its back to normal. Sometimes it won't happen until weeks later.

Like I said I have an intake kit, which may throw off the A/F ratios a bit, but it's definitely cold too when this happens, as in below freezing. It's not the end of the world but definitely concerning as the car is brand new, and well, it shouldn't be shutting off boost ever.

Let me know if you guys get any updates. thanks.

 

[MerlintheMad]

^^^Welcome to the forum, "cousin". If I had this issue, other than being a nuisance I'd worry that it will happen when I get on it to maneuver with speed, and nothing there. Wondering if you are suddenly driving a slug destroys confidence. And to be safe, you have to drive as if the Stinger is a granny car.

 

[GENESISSTINGER]

^^^Welcome to the forum, "cousin". If I had this issue, other than being a nuisance I'd worry that it will happen when I get on it to maneuver with speed, and nothing there. Wondering if you are suddenly driving a slug destroys confidence. And to be safe, you have to drive as if the Stinger is a granny car.

Thanks, lol. Definitely just a nuisance that rarely happens, but after the first time I had to ask. It makes me wonder if my one mod, being the BMS intakes are throwing off the A/F ratios and causing issues, causing it to go disable boost as a safety precaution. Others who have the issue said they were 100% stock however, as seen on the G70 forums.

 

[Rodtheviking]

TCV (RCV according to KIA) is most likely the culprit.

http://www.kstinger.com/rcv_control_solenoid_valve-466.html

39400-2C300