Topping off oil

There exists self draining OCCs that let gravity do the work!
Personally prefer an OCC that removes the gunk, not deposit it back into the crank case.
 
I've heard of these too, but even if it has self-draining it's still one more thing that can be overlooked, by the owner, mechanic, or dealership, which is why I guess the OCC (oil catch can) doesn't come stock on the stinger, or many vehicles.

I believe my old Sunfire GT came with an oil/air separator stock. Not sure if something is available for this engine. I think the OCCs are supposed to act like a rudimentary one: where vapors, crankcase blowby, etc. Gets caught in the can. You just have to drain it yourself.

Again, if you're letting the dealer take care of maintenance I personally wouldn't worry about it - especially since they might not touch anything aftermarket.

As for your original question, I wouldn't top off with a mix of oil weights, but that's just me and my layperson enthusiast opinion. Plus, looking in the manual the recommended weights for the 3.3 are 10w30 for places where it doesn't drop below 0F, or 5w30 or 5w40 for everywhere, 5w30 preffered (2.5 only specifies 0W30). Given that the turbos are lubed with the engine oil, I'd stick within the recommendation. I don't know if 15w40, even a little would cause damage, but I personally wouldn't take the risk.
Thanks for your opinion on the matter. I guess I'll see if can sell that Rotella T6 jug to someone at half price.
 
I've heard of these too, but even if it has self-draining it's still one more thing that can be overlooked, by the owner, mechanic, or dealership

What do you mean by, overlooked?

Zero maintenance Catch can
 
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The JB4 can "should work just fine" as long as it never tips over or gets jostled too much. That's not a gamble an OEM will make with something like this. It's also simply not got to work as well as a typical vertical catch can just because of how it's set up. It's better than nothing, but not as good as a traditional can. Of course there are a bunch of aftermarket cans that are nothing more than an empty can - which isn't very helpful either.

If you look at big diesel engines where this kind of thing is much more important (besides buildup and damage like gas engines, a diesel could keep running by burning the oil it's sucking out of the crankcase) you'll see a very different setup. Those have a dedicated drain going back to the sump. It's kind of like the turbo drain-back, but there needs to be more valving/routing/other to keep the intake vacuum from sucking oil right out of the sump. I helped a buddy work on a blown 4.6 that had major oil blowby problems (we set the rings loose for the desired boost, and, well, blowby) and we put one of these in. Started with typical cans but he was catching something like 1TBSP oil for every 15 minute drive! It was very complicated and took a few tries to get working well, but it's the Right Way to do this sort of thing. So no way an OEM will do something like this unless it's absolutely necessary.
 
What do you mean by, overlooked?

Zero maintenance Catch can
I was assuming the catch can you meant was the one with the drain valve on it, so you don't have to unscrew it, but you drain it manually. Mea Culpa.
 
Thanks for your opinion on the matter. I guess I'll see if can sell that Rotella T6 jug to someone at half price.
That might be the way to go, to be honest. We ended up getting rid of the old 0W20 my wife's old car used (was like a partial quart) when she went electric.
 
Personally prefer an OCC that removes the gunk, not deposit it back into the crank case.
The "gunk" is basically oil vapour. It's perfectly fine to condense the vapour and let it drip back down from whence it came.
 
The "gunk" is basically oil vapour. It's perfectly fine to condense the vapour and let it drip back down from whence it came.
Ive see the gunk that gets trapped in my OCC. Prefer it doesnt go back into my oil pan.

I had one in my 2012 Kia Optima Hybrid. See the picture of what the OCC captured. It would be more than oil vapour going back in.Screenshot_20221209-095540_Chrome.jpg
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Ive see the gunk that gets trapped in my OCC. Prefer it doesnt go back into my oil pan.

I had one in my 2012 Kia Optima Hybrid. See the picture of what the OCC captured. It would be more than oil vapour going back in.
Yes- there is some water vapor as well - which typically evaporates off with heat.
 
Yes- there is some water vapor as well - which typically evaporates off with heat.

That's my thinking too. The image ht_addict posted looks like churned up oil and water in the cup, maybe a tiny bit of coolant. Some moisture is always going to be in the oil if the car sits for a few days or is often driven short trips, and it why OEMs recommend at least occasionally driving for extended periods (couple of hours) at operating temperature, preferably on the freeway, to boil the water out. Anyway, recirculating caught oil back is no worse than staying stock by using no catch can.
 
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