Topping off oil

[Dewfall]

Hi All,
My Stinger is about 75% through it's current oil life, and I noticed at the last level check that it might be slightly down, probably half a quart or less. I normally use Mobile 1, but I have a nearly full bottle of perfectly good Rotella T6 15W-40 synthetic and wondered if it is a bad idea to use that to top off the oil level to full. Anyone responding with real motor oil engineering knowledge is appreciated.

 

[Snicklefritz]

why are you not topping off with your regular Mobil oil? you have doubts using something else. that should tell you just use the same oil to top off.

 

[JSolo]

I don't know what 75% means, but why not just do an oil change now before it gets really cold?

 

[oddball]

Is it still above the Low line? Leave it alone.

 

[D.J.]

Is it still above the Low line? Leave it alone.

is exactly what I would do in this situation.



@Dewfall what is 75% to you?

Does your stinger leak oil or burn it (or catch it in a can)?

 

[nhcowboy28]

I don’t always top off…
But when I do, your mom helps..



Stay oily my friends.

 

[Dewfall]

I don’t always top off…
But when I do, your mom helps..

View attachment 76680

Stay oily my friends.

Why would you write something like that? You didn't offend me because I already know you have no idea what you are talking about. I suppose you are looking for a fight? Well, I do not want to humiliate you, because that is cruel, so I will decline. Watch your mouth.

 

[Dewfall]

why are you not topping off with your regular Mobil oil? you have doubts using something else. that should tell you just use the same oil to top off.

I'm only interested if it is a bad idea to use that Rotella to add, that I may never use otherwise.

 

[Dewfall]

I don't know what 75% means, but why not just do an oil change now before it gets really cold?

What I mean by 75% is that if I consider 5000 miles to be the change point, the current motor oil has approximately 3750 miles on it. I don't change oil myself anymore, like I always did with my Subarus. I have no place to do the work, no hoist so I can remove the undercarriage covers, and Stinger oil filters are more difficult to replace, so I take it to the dealer.

 

[ht_addict]

As long as your above the low level, leave it alone.

 

[Dewfall]

is exactly what I would do in this situation.



@Dewfall what is 75% to you?

Does your stinger leak oil or burn it (or catch it in a can)?

The question was, if I needed to add some oil, is it a bad idea to use the Rotella T6?

My Stinger does not burn, nor leak oil. It has only 4K miles and I baby it most of the time. I have not invested in a catch can because I'm not certain it is a good idea. If it were, why wouldn't the OEM install them? Same thing with cold air intakes. Factory intakes are probably capable of twice the air flow that the Lambda II engine would ever need in stock form. It's just hype.

 

[ht_addict]

The question was, if I needed to add some oil, is it a bad idea to use the Rotella T6?

My Stinger does not burn, nor leak oil. It has only 4K miles and I baby it most of the time. I have not invested in a catch can because I'm not certain it is a good idea. If it were, why wouldn't the OEM install them? Same thing with cold air intakes. Factory intakes are probably capable of twice the air flow that the Lambda II engine would ever need in stock form. It's just hype.

1. Would not mix.
2. Catch Can helps keep the intake valves cleaner. Have one and it does the job trapping crap.
3. Factory box and air intake under front bumper are very restrictive. Snorkels/CAI help the engine breath the way it should.

Manufacturer didn't install a catch can as OEM because of cost and maintenance. CAI and Snorkels again cost and probably to maintain their MPG requirement. The Stinger is a fun car to mod and enjoys being modded.

 

[D.J.]

The question was, if I needed to add some oil, is it a bad idea to use the Rotella T6?

If you are only adding ~500ml to the 6900ml engine oil capacity (7.2%), it's hardly anything

And you are going to be doing an oil change shortly anyway since the oil is nearly due to be changed. Probably better to add the same oil if it's available, but in a pinch, I would definitely not worry about mixing.

My Stinger does not burn, nor leak oil.

This math doesn't add up...
Why is it low on oil?

 

[Rodtheviking]

I might mix weights if they are close but I wouldn't mix brands.

 

[Dewfall]

If you are only adding ~500ml to the 6900ml engine oil capacity (7.2%), it's hardly anything

And you are going to be doing an oil change shortly anyway since the oil is nearly due to be changed. Probably better to add the same oil if it's available, but in a pinch, I would definitely not worry about mixing.


This math doesn't add up...
Why is it low on oil?

Thank you for an answer I was looking for.

 

[LordKOTL]

1. Would not mix.
2. Catch Can helps keep the intake valves cleaner. Have one and it does the job trapping crap.
3. Factory box and air intake under front bumper are very restrictive. Snorkels/CAI help the engine breath the way it should.

Manufacturer didn't install a catch can as OEM because of cost and maintenance. CAI and Snorkels again cost and probably to maintain their MPG requirement. The Stinger is a fun car to mod and enjoys being modded.

To add to this, I think maintenance is the biggest issue. If the catch can is not emptied, it'll start sucking oils and gunk into the intake manifold, not just vapors and crankcase mist.

If the lowest dealer tech fails to empty it and it starts sucking the catch can gunk into the engine, the dealer would be at fault and nothing good comes to the dealer if that eould happen. It's easier for them to just clean the intakes at the regular tube-up interval. I think that's why they don't come stock.

For the enthusiasts who stay on top of their own maintenance, it's not a big deal and keeps the intake manifold cleaner. If you're not that type, and you just let the dealer take care of the maintenance, I think maybe you (royal you) should skip it.

My $0.02; no refunds.

 

[D.J.]

To add to this, I think maintenance is the biggest issue. If the catch can is not emptied, it'll start sucking oils and gunk into the intake manifold, not just vapors and crankcase mist.

If the lowest dealer tech fails to empty it and it starts sucking the catch can gunk into the engine, the dealer would be at fault and nothing good comes to the dealer if that eould happen. It's easier for them to just clean the intakes at the regular tube-up interval. I think that's why they don't come stock.

For the enthusiasts who stay on top of their own maintenance, it's not a big deal and keeps the intake manifold cleaner. If you're not that type, and you just let the dealer take care of the maintenance, I think maybe you (royal you) should skip it.

My $0.02; no refunds.

There exists self draining OCCs that let gravity do the work!

 

[Dewfall]

To add to this, I think maintenance is the biggest issue. If the catch can is not emptied, it'll start sucking oils and gunk into the intake manifold, not just vapors and crankcase mist.

If the lowest dealer tech fails to empty it and it starts sucking the catch can gunk into the engine, the dealer would be at fault and nothing good comes to the dealer if that eould happen. It's easier for them to just clean the intakes at the regular tube-up interval. I think that's why they don't come stock.

For the enthusiasts who stay on top of their own maintenance, it's not a big deal and keeps the intake manifold cleaner. If you're not that type, and you just let the dealer take care of the maintenance, I think maybe you (royal you) should skip it.

My $0.02; no refunds.

That is as good as any reason I've heard for OEM not including a catch can. I had a something better than a catch can on my Subaru WRX. Made by Grimmspeed, it was an air/oil separator which caught the oil and re-circulated it back into the oil fill tube, so there was no can to empty. I noticed almost no loss of oil between changes after installing it. I wonder if something similar is available for the Lambda II?

 

[Dewfall]

There exists self draining OCCs that let gravity do the work!

OCC?

 

[LordKOTL]

There exists self draining OCCs that let gravity do the work!

I've heard of these too, but even if it has self-draining it's still one more thing that can be overlooked, by the owner, mechanic, or dealership, which is why I guess the OCC (oil catch can) doesn't come stock on the stinger, or many vehicles.

That is as good as any reason I've heard for OEM not including a catch can. I had a something better than a catch can on my Subaru WRX. Made by Grimmspeed, it was an air/oil separator which caught the oil and re-circulated it back into the oil fill tube, so there was no can to empty. I noticed almost no loss of oil between changes after installing it. I wonder if something similar is available for the Lambda II?

I believe my old Sunfire GT came with an oil/air separator stock. Not sure if something is available for this engine. I think the OCCs are supposed to act like a rudimentary one: where vapors, crankcase blowby, etc. Gets caught in the can. You just have to drain it yourself.

Again, if you're letting the dealer take care of maintenance I personally wouldn't worry about it - especially since they might not touch anything aftermarket.

As for your original question, I wouldn't top off with a mix of oil weights, but that's just me and my layperson enthusiast opinion. Plus, looking in the manual the recommended weights for the 3.3 are 10w30 for places where it doesn't drop below 0F, or 5w30 or 5w40 for everywhere, 5w30 preffered (2.5 only specifies 0W30). Given that the turbos are lubed with the engine oil, I'd stick within the recommendation. I don't know if 15w40, even a little would cause damage, but I personally wouldn't take the risk.