It's not always fair for me to critique on others' suspension setup, because quite often folks have different goals than mine. So, I'll just address the things I see that are more pertinent to the topic of this thread.
1. Lighter wheels. 4 kg is quite substantial. I always say this should the very first suspension upgrade for everybody still on OEM wheels. As long as the new wheels are properly spec'ed for the car's load rating, there is practically no downside to it - unlike just about everything you might do with suspension tuning, which almost always carries some negatives. With lighter wheels, you get less unsprung mass, so your suspension - even if it's bone stock - will be better able to control the movement of the now lighter wheels. This means better adhesion to the tarmac for better overall traction, especially over rougher pavement. It means faster reaction to bumps and less likelihood of bottoming out. Lower rotation inertia means faster accel/decel for better performance
and mpg.
2. Anti-roll bars. You actually get the most bang for the buck with stock suspension. The reason is that once you start lowering the car and going to stiffer springs and dampers, your chassis will pitch and yaw less, which is a good thing obviously. However, along with that comes less suspension articulation differences, under lateral acceleration and when hitting a bump. That means your
anti-roll bars do less work overall. Not a bad thing, but nonetheless, your anti-roll bars do work a lot harder with full-travel long-stroke stock suspension. And yes, unless you have a specific reason(s) to do otherwise, leave the settings on soft. The stiffer you set the anti-roll bars, the less "independent" you suspension become. Imagine increasing your anti-roll bar's diameter larger and larger. At some point, you gonna end up with a solid axle. Difficult to argue that is a good thing.
More is only better when the gains reasonably justify the losses.
3. Adjustable end links. These are popular, but personally I've yet to see a convincing argument for street applications. Adjustables are typically only used on racing cars to fine-tune the end link lengths to compensate for corner weight differences, with the race driver on board. Along with corner balancing the car by adjusting ride height independently at all four wheels, this sets up the suspension to be as neutral as possible - again, with
the race driver onboard. However, with a road car you daily, cargo and passenger loads could vary dramatically from day to day, trip to trip, so there is little reason to fine-tune for chassis neutrality when variables are multiple and unpredictable.
The other common justification for
aftermarket end links is that OEM end links are weak and would bend. I don't buy this. All three of my Stingers/
G70 are on OEM end links and all three have seen substantial track time and been pushed hard. I've found ZERO evidence of them bending/yielding under stress. If anybody else have solid evidence, I'm not beyond convincing. However, just showing a pic of an OEM end link, which for all I know was probably chucked in a vise and whacked with a sledge hammer.... uh, nah.
