I changed my pads and discs and now stop and go does not work. It is not a battery or cold engine issue. I have a trickle charger and battery fully charged and engine warm. The “A” light does not even illuminate (neither amber or green) when I press the brake pedal all the way. It’s like the brake pedal sensor does not know that I have pressed the brakes fully to activate the stop and go function at all. Could it be that new thick pads have thrown off the brake pedal sensor that senses how much the brake pedal is pressed? Is there a brake pedal sensor relearn procedure that needs to be done after new pads are installed?
Stop and go not working after new pads installed
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oddball
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*sigh*
Yup, it's definitely the brake pads.
No, none of that is related. The ECU just doesn't want to stop the engine. There's a *bunch* of parameters that it considers. If you want to convince yourself then just force the pedal down further when you're stopped. It'll go all the way to the floor if you lean on it. Develop those leg muscles.
Yup, it's definitely the brake pads.
No, none of that is related. The ECU just doesn't want to stop the engine. There's a *bunch* of parameters that it considers. If you want to convince yourself then just force the pedal down further when you're stopped. It'll go all the way to the floor if you lean on it. Develop those leg muscles.
It's an interesting question since ISG (start/stop) is definitely sensitive to either pedal position or pressure to activate, because before I disabled mine I'd avoid setting it off at stop lights etc by just applying the brake minimally. So if it's position-based, it would make sense that new pads would move the pedal point high enough not to activate.
But if that were the case, it would also make sense for it to have a reset procedure or learning process, probably the latter since gradual pad wear would move the point further down over time. And I don't see any such process in the Kia procedures linked below. Maybe drive around a bit more, and then try holding it firmly like @oddball mentions, in case it's pressure-based.
But if that were the case, it would also make sense for it to have a reset procedure or learning process, probably the latter since gradual pad wear would move the point further down over time. And I don't see any such process in the Kia procedures linked below. Maybe drive around a bit more, and then try holding it firmly like @oddball mentions, in case it's pressure-based.
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Volfy
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Correlation is not causation.
If your brake lights are coming on when you step on the brake pedal, then the switch is working just fine. And, NO, there are no brake pedal relearn procedure of any kind. I've changed brake pads more times on this platform than I care to count. If the job is done right - and it isn't that difficult - nothing else needs to be do... other than checking the master cylinder fluid reservoir to make sure it isn't tool full. Pushing back all the caliper pistons to make room for thicker pads do pump fluid back up into the reservoir, but that has nothing to do with the ISG.
The sooner you quit looking for ghosts where there ain't none, the sooner you'll start looking where the gremlin actual hides.
If your brake lights are coming on when you step on the brake pedal, then the switch is working just fine. And, NO, there are no brake pedal relearn procedure of any kind. I've changed brake pads more times on this platform than I care to count. If the job is done right - and it isn't that difficult - nothing else needs to be do... other than checking the master cylinder fluid reservoir to make sure it isn't tool full. Pushing back all the caliper pistons to make room for thicker pads do pump fluid back up into the reservoir, but that has nothing to do with the ISG.
The sooner you quit looking for ghosts where there ain't none, the sooner you'll start looking where the gremlin actual hides.
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D.J.
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How do you Know it's not the battery?
Just because you have a trickle charger, that does not mean it is not your battery.
What is your battery temperature? Battery temperature is a condition listed in post #4
Also, regarding the title of this post... I would like to say, CONGRATULATIONS, some people pay extra money to disable this feature, you seem to have got this feature disabled for free. Congratulations.
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Not disagreeing with anything you said...
Just adding, our brake switch is more complicated than a simple toggle on/off switch...
Volfy
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The signal might be modulated, but it's still just ON-OFF states. If the brake lights work, then that ON-OFF switching is working.
"Also, regarding the title of this post... I would like to say, CONGRATULATIONS, some people pay extra money to disable this feature, you seem to have got this feature disabled for free. Congratulations."
You renewed my faith in Canadians......
I agree that brake lights coming on indicates a working switch, but I don't think it's sufficient to know the ISG signaling is working properly. Before I disabled mine, I was able to control via brake pressure whether ISG engaged at stop lights and in drive-thrus & parking lots.
I could brake hard enough to slow the car to a stop and hold it in place (no creep), so the brake lights were definitely engaged, but ISG wouldn't engage unless I held it more firmly. That says to me there must be some tie to either pedal travel or line pressure.
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Thanks. I thought that there must be a sensor for brake pedal position, but a brake pressure sensor makes even more sense. Before I would press the brake to the point of activating the stop and go and it would light up the light amber (if conditions like uncharged battery, cold engine were not met), or green. Now even if I press the brake pedal down max, I get no light at all until 3 seconds after I am completely stopped, and then it is always amber. It must be this pressure sensor from master cylinder to ECU that needs to be reset after changing pads. But I can’t find anything about how to do that, and my mechanic doesn’t know either, my scanner tool does not show any errors.
D.J.
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There is no sensor that needs to be reset after a brake pad replacement.
Is it cold in your geography?
Another quick test, does your auto hold work if you enable it?
I am fairly certain that the brake pressure requirement to activate auto hold, is the same brake pressure requirement to satisfy ISG.
Volfy
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There is nothing in the software that needs to be reset with a simple brake pad replacement. Like I mentioned above, between our three Stingers/G70, I've changed pads some 4-5 times already. Not to mention countless other vehicles I've changed pads on.
Did you flush/bleed the brake fluid when you replaced the pads? If you did that, messed that up, and got air in the line, then maybe that could change the pressure feedback sensing. If that is the case, the brake pedal feel will be spongy. So, does the pedal feel any different than before?
Another thing could be the new pads aren't seating against the rotors properly, leaving excessively large gap that require more than typical short brake pedal travel to build pressure. Again... if that is the case, your brake pedal will feel really soft, possibly needing to be pumped more than once to build pressure.
One other possibility... most aftermarket brake pads come with their own backing plate shims (typically stainless steel). Don't take off the shims from the old pads and add onto the new pads. Doing that could give the new assembly too much compressibility or "give". That will also lead to the sponginess symptoms described above.
Did you flush/bleed the brake fluid when you replaced the pads? If you did that, messed that up, and got air in the line, then maybe that could change the pressure feedback sensing. If that is the case, the brake pedal feel will be spongy. So, does the pedal feel any different than before?
Another thing could be the new pads aren't seating against the rotors properly, leaving excessively large gap that require more than typical short brake pedal travel to build pressure. Again... if that is the case, your brake pedal will feel really soft, possibly needing to be pumped more than once to build pressure.
One other possibility... most aftermarket brake pads come with their own backing plate shims (typically stainless steel). Don't take off the shims from the old pads and add onto the new pads. Doing that could give the new assembly too much compressibility or "give". That will also lead to the sponginess symptoms described above.
Yes the auto hold works, so hopefully you’re right and that indicates that everything is ok with brake pressure. I’ll wait and see if it works again when less cold.
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Thanks for all this helpful info. Brakes don’t feel spongy, but I’ll mention it to my mechanic.
