Stinger in the cold

[JSolo]

I sold the accord with a 9 yr old battery out of my G37 (original battery from late 2011). Around year 4 in that battery's life, it was removed from service and used as a 12V source in the garage. Charge kept up by an even older battery tender (1.25A). About the only time the tender got disconnected was when I needed to move something and the wires were in the way (rare). Few months before selling the accord I replaced the battery with one from costco. To supplement the payout from carmax, I decided to return the new battery and in its place installed the one from the garage. Car started fine each time. Few weeks prior, I had pepboys test that battery. Their tool said it was still good for ~500cca, rated around 650 when new.

tl;dr keep the battey tenderized when not in use.

 

[rocket23]

yup, I poked my head into a f-150 forum awhile back, reading posts from 2012 long forgotten about with todays crowd but a wealth of knowledge at your fingertips....literally

 

[rocket23]

I sold the accord with a 9 yr old battery out of my G37 (original battery from late 2011). Around year 4 in that battery's life, it was removed from service and used as a 12V source in the garage. Charge kept up by an even older battery tender (1.25A). About the only time the tender got disconnected was when I needed to move something and the wires were in the way (rare). Few months before selling the accord I replaced the battery with one from costco. To supplement the payout from carmax, I decided to return the new battery and in its place installed the one from the garage. Car started fine each time. Few weeks prior, I had pepboys test that battery. Their tool said it was still good for ~500cca, rated around 650 when new.

tl;dr keep the battey tenderized when not in use.

I sold batteries for a couple years, and that is the exact same story I have come across....treat it right and it will treat you in kind........knock it around ,subject it to extremes (temps) or overuse and it will fail like a wet paper bag.

 

[RM7]

People here think they are driving in the cold in the 20s, haha!

 

[rocket23]

People here think they are driving in the cold in the 20s, haha!

well the car thinks it's cold........I have Maine blood in me, hasn't gotten so cold I couldn't stand it anymore.......yet.

 

[JSolo]

The cold logic in the 2.5t is odd. Going down my street, 10-15 mph, it's already in 3rd at 1000 rpm. Not too helpful for getting the engine warmed up. I rather it stay in 2nd at 1500 rpm.

 

[rocket23]

The cold logic in the 2.5t is odd. Going down my street, 10-15 mph, it's already in 3rd at 1000 rpm. Not too helpful for getting the engine warmed up. I rather it stay in 2nd at 1500 rpm.

well the whole idea of warming it up is to idle in the drive......I agree it takes awhile to warm up the 4 cyl turbo while driving.....I try and not drive it til it at least the temperature gets up a tick or two.

 

[JSolo]

Wow really? 30-60 sec idle is all I give it then go. I think the last car I idled long enough until the temp needle moved was my camaro. That had a big @ss 5.7L v8 in it and a huge radiator.

I think what I will try next time is manual shifting it at least the first mile. We haven't had any real cold spells here yet. Maybe when it's 20F out it behaves different and holds the gears longer.

 

[MerlintheMad]

I idle until the initial RPM drops (c. forty seconds), then I go, conservatively, until the engine temp hits operating level. I do not "hit it" until the oil temperature is at c. a third of operating temperature. (Have to use that oil gauge for something .)

 

[RM7]

The cold logic in the 2.5t is odd. Going down my street, 10-15 mph, it's already in 3rd at 1000 rpm. Not too helpful for getting the engine warmed up. I rather it stay in 2nd at 1500 rpm.

Needs load, not necessarily RPM.

 

[JSolo]

^^So lets lug the engine when cold? Or I suppose the slip in the torque converter generates heat. But I don't think its slipping if its already in 3rd.