wondering if anyone here has bypassed the coolant flow through the throttle body to lower IATS? It’s a well known mod in the gen coupe community and I had did it on my gen with results of 15-30 degrees lower IATS on average, any reason NOT to do this?
wondering if anyone here has bypassed the coolant flow through the throttle body to lower IATS? It’s a well known mod in the gen coupe community and I had did it on my gen with results of 15-30 degrees lower IATS on average, any reason NOT to do this?
I'm running a secondary oil, secondary coolant radiator, water methanol injection, and a Garret core intercooler which seem to keeps IAT's down the harder I push things, so I hadn't considered this mod. Only reason I can think of not to do this (other than a possible CEL warning), is if you drive in a cold climate.
I've got a bored throttle body already (larger mm) and the stock spare in case there is an issue, so I will try this at some point in the spring before the heat kicks in. Burping coolant on this motor can take hours and multiple sessions to get all of the air out, not looking forward to that again.
I think I might just give this a shot this weekend, not sure If the throttle body has a temp sensor in it, doesn’t appear to externally but who knows. I live in SoCal so below freezing days are non existent lol. Still wondering if anyone has tried yet?
I think I might just give this a shot this weekend, not sure If the throttle body has a temp sensor in it, doesn’t appear to externally but who knows. I live in SoCal so below freezing days are non existent lol. Still wondering if anyone has tried yet?
Its a simple bypass on the bottom of the TB. 1\4" union fitting should do it. My friend did his, and I don;t think it make much of a difference. only way to make a material IAT difference on turbo car is colder air/ more efficient CAI, more efficient IC or Meth.
No pics, sorry. Everything is behind the bumper and grill so I won't be able to get pics until I pull the bumper off again, which I'm not in a rush to do
Both radiators are mounted between the front grill and stock radiators (oil/coolant/trans). After removing the front bumper and stock air-scoops (not enough space for 'em), I drilled holes into the frame behind the bumper to mount the radiators and used zip ties to hold them together securely. Hoses go to the aftermarket billet heater core (you're replacing the stock one), which has two additional ports for oil to flow through for the oil radiator loop, and two additional for the coolant to flow through for the coolant radiator loop, with the remaining two ports taking the stock heater core coolant lines. Essentially you're replacing the stock heater core with the billet aluminum one from the kit, connecting the additional radiators, and mounting everything securely.
I'm 3600km's away from my computer at the moment so sorry no pic's, but I did search a workshop schematic of the TB and there definitely is no temp sensor in it so it's got me buggered what caused the change in idle because I have zero vacuum leaks...
But I'm gonna disconnect it again as soon as I get back home
