Sport mode omg

[Ceramicgrey gt1]

Depends on what you're after. If you want a lightly modded daily driver, the following is a good list (similar to my mods) - also depends on if you're just after power or overall performance.

Power:
-plugs (for almost any performance mod)
-DIY intake
-OCC
-jb4 unless you plan to go big with mods

Handling:
-sways
-Mando ECS10 (suspension controller)

Braking:
-non-OEM brake pads

Flashy stuff (with debatable overall performance, unless doing 1/4 mile a lot):
-loud exhaust
-secondary downpipes

More advanced mods:
-FMIC
-WMI / CPI+E85
-Springs

I have all the Power/Handling/Braking stuff. Have considered all of the "more advanced" mods and may still do them at some point. Car is fast and fun and still reasonable to drive daily.

 

[Ceramicgrey gt1]

I thank you guys for your insight

 

[zbc1969]

If you’re going to spend $600 on a JB4 you may as well just get a full ecu tune for ~$700. It’s way better

 

[NS_Stinger]

If you’re going to spend $600 on a JB4 you may as well just get a full ecu tune for ~$700. It’s way better

You might want to clarify that a full ecu tune includes throwing away your entire drivetrain warranty versus a piggyback unless you buy an extra ecu.

 

[zbc1969]

You might want to clarify that a full ecu tune includes throwing away your entire drivetrain warranty versus a piggyback unless you buy an extra ecu.

You know Kia can clearly see if you’ve used a piggyback right? So you’re already doing that with a piggyback anyway. Boost levels are stored a few different places on the car and all they have to do is read it from one of those. Hell a real ecu tune is actually better for warranty because the tech would need a reason to go looking for higher boost levels aside from just see an obvious box with wires coming out of it like with a piggyback.

Furthermore your warranty is only affected if they can show that whatever broke was a direct result from your modification. And if you break stuff from modding then that’s game we play and you shouldn’t be trying to get the warranty to cover it anyway.

 

[NS_Stinger]

You know Kia can clearly see if you’ve used a piggyback right? So you’re already doing that with a piggyback anyway. Boost levels are stored a few different places on the car and all they have to do is read it from one of those. Hell a real ecu tune is actually better for warranty because the tech would need a reason to go looking for higher boost levels aside from just see an obvious box with wires coming out of it like with a piggyback.

Furthermore your warranty is only affected if they can show that whatever broke was a direct result from your modification. And if you break stuff from modding then that’s game we play and you shouldn’t be trying to get the warranty to cover it anyway.

If the piggyback is removed before heading in for service it leaves no trace, so no it isn't detectable...

 

[zbc1969]

If the piggyback is removed before heading in for service it leaves no trace, so no it isn't detectable...

that’s not true but whatever makes you feel good. They can pull the values off the fuel Ecu just like in bmw’s.

 

[zbc1969]

If the piggyback is removed before heading in for service it leaves no trace, so no it isn't detectable...

they can also see anytime you unplug the sensors to plug in or unplug your piggyback.

 

[ScottM]

And the "plug and play vs the tuned ECU" conversation goes on.

The only thing I know for sure...which is not much. A plug and play can be physically "plugged and played" from your home by you (wires and such). A tuned ECU requires someone do something with your ECU...somehow, someway (as in you send yours, you get a new one and send it in, blah blah).

BUT...I cannot and will not comment on which one is better because that ALL depends on many variables.

 

[CoconutRob]

Not again! Plenty of threads about this.

 

[Ceramicgrey gt1]

Yeah dont want to go all out just moderate speed dont want to change to much thinking intake 1st and then exhaust but dont know which one yet