Snow tires + AWD?

Again, all-season tires are a compromise. Not as good in winter as a quality, dedicated winter tire. And not as good in summer as a quality, dedicated high performance summer tire.

If you like to drive on a compromise, go for it. I choose to use two sets of wheels and tires, summer and winter.
Don’t forget that there is a relatively new category between snow/ice tires and all seasons. Winter performance tires. Really good when cold/wet (much better than snow/ice tires). Better in snow and ice than all seasons (all seasons are basically worthless on ice). A better compromise for those who drive in very cold winters with occasional snow/ice.
 
I have only been in Northern Utah since summer of '15, and the issue with most winters in the area is that snow days dont happen often and those days get mixed in with over 50 degree days now and then. Of course this winter has been different (lots of cold days), but all seasons are very good for here and winter tires would have issues in the warm parts of winter. Every single place I looked at for tires suggested all seasons for this area (since I have AWD), not winter tires, as long as I was just city driving. Every one.
 
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If you like to drive on a compromise, go for it. I choose to use two sets of wheels and tires, summer and winter.
As the saying goes, "The jury is still out on this one." I think that I am going to end up a one-tire-set guy. I'm trying to. But by this summer, I might be pushing my car hard enough to want the summer tires back on: in which case I will not avoid the off again and on again routine. But will I go winter tires? Not until the Nitto Motivos are used up: unless I manage to scare myself badly enough to ditch them for the best winter tires I can find. I tend to wait once I've made up my mind. So having already made my decision last fall, and not regretting it in the least thus far, Motivos it is. Come summer, we'll see if I leave them on.

Right now I am at my dealer getting my Eibach rear sway bar on (soft). I drove through typical Utah, lowland winter conditions: lots of slush between lanes, people driving carefully (except for the inevitable handful who don't: have seen three off the road so far, one on the freeway backwards against the median wall, front bumper ripped clean off). The acceleration of this car is amazing with AWD and A/S Motivos. :thumbup:
 
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I have only been in Northern Utah since summer of '15, and the issue with most winters in the area is that snow days dont happen often and those days get mixed in with over 50 degree days now and then. Of course this winter has been different (lots of cold days), but all seasons are very good for here and winter tires would have issues in the warm parts of winter. Every single place I looked at for tires suggested all seasons for this area (since I have AWD), not winter tires, as long as I was just city driving. Every one.
That's right. Now, if you are going up and down the canyons (you skier bums, you), winter tires are the only option, period.
 
Over here in Luxembourg we don’t get much snow but the temperatures regularly drop below 0 C (right now -7 C). Nevertheless winter tires are mandatory in ”winter conditions” and it was anyway clear I’d be getting a proper set for my AWD Stinger. I also make regular skiing trips to the Alps where summer tires would be an absolute no no.

I bought a set of aftermarket 19” wheels with Continental WinterContact TS 860 S. Excellent tires! The speed rating is V (240 km/h) and despite handling well in dry roads they have superb grip in cold and snow.

I took the car for a couple of weeks to my native Finland over Christmas and had no problems plowing through the snowed in backroads or frozen main roads in -20 C. Really good grip in every direction!

Also happy to report the Stinger starts like under the palm tree without auxiliary heating in freezing temperatures and gets warm real quick. There must be an electric heater in the radiator.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Also happy to report the Stinger starts like under the palm tree without auxiliary heating in freezing temperatures and gets warm real quick. There must be an electric heater in the radiator.
I've noticed the engine warms up very quickly as well, which is nice. This winter I've left the climate controls set to 'AUTO' and 20 degrees C, and it's usually only about a kilometer away from the house that the coolant temperature reaches a point where the climate control blower starts up and begins warming the cabin. I do start driving almost immediately after starting the engine, provided the windows are clear.

In addition, the 'rapid response' seat and steering wheel heaters make that first short stretch of driving quite comfortable as well. I've had seat heaters before, but a heated steering wheel is a luxury I've never experienced until now - and I love it! :thumbup:

We have UVO cellular remote start in Canada, but other than initial experimenting to see how it worked, I've never felt a need to use it. With the speed this car gets warm, it's just a waste of fuel to me.
 
We have UVO cellular remote start in Canada, but other than initial experimenting to see how it worked, I've never felt a need to use it. With the speed this car gets warm, it's just a waste of fuel to me.

We have no UVO and remote start would anyway be illegal as idling the engine unnecessarily is outlawed. Also the common logic here is it’s better for the engine if you take off immediately.
 
Also the common logic here is it’s better for the engine if you take off immediately.
Qualified by letting the fluids circulate for the better part of a minute before you start to move. Nobody should just start the engine and roll. Idling does not harm an engine.

Constant RPMs are not good for a high performance engine. That's why the break in period to 600 miles is between 2K and 4K RPM. And a lot of slow driving with idling, i.e. inescapable rush hour traffic, is one of those severe conditions that Kia recommends changing the oil more often than 6K miles.
 
Qualified by letting the fluids circulate for the better part of a minute before you start to move. Nobody should just start the engine and roll. Idling does not harm an engine.

Constant RPMs are not good for a high performance engine. That's why the break in period to 600 miles is between 2K and 4K RPM. And a lot of slow driving with idling, i.e. inescapable rush hour traffic, is one of those severe conditions that Kia recommends changing the oil more often than 6K miles.

Actually that is old information. The engine heats up faster while driving. You should not heat up a modern engine with electronic injection by idling.

Gas does not become gaseous well in cold temperatures which makes the injection push very rich mixture into the cylinders. Much of this will not burn but can easily wipe away lubricating oil from the piston rings. Gas is an excellent solvent.
 
Actually that is old information.
I am not surprised. Most of my "information" is old, since this is my first high tech car. Are you going to assert that turning it off before it gets to full operating temperature is "old information" too? My adjusting to what you said will just mean I roll out of my driveway after c. forty seconds, and either take a longer route, or let the engine finish warming up at the far end of the short drives.
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
As the saying goes, "The jury is still out on this one." I think that I am going to end up a one-tire-set guy. I'm trying to. But by this summer, I might be pushing my car hard enough to want the summer tires back on: in which case I will not avoid the off again and on again routine. But will I go winter tires? Not until the Nitto Motivos are used up: unless I manage to scare myself badly enough to ditch them for the best winter tires I can find. I tend to wait once I've made up my mind. So having already made my decision last fall, and not regretting it in the least thus far, Motivos it is. Come summer, we'll see if I leave them on.

Right now I am at my dealer getting my Eibach rear sway bar on (soft). I drove through typical Utah, lowland winter conditions: lots of slush between lanes, people driving carefully (except for the inevitable handful who don't: have seen three off the road so far, one on the freeway backwards against the median wall, front bumper ripped clean off). The acceleration of this car is amazing with AWD and A/S Motivos. :thumbup:
Maybe your jury's out on it. But mine and many others' juries aren't. I've been using two sets of wheels and tires for every car I've owned for 20 years. There's no comparison. We have high humidity, hot summers with frequent 90+ degree Fahrenheit days and cold, dry winters with snow and usually a week or so where the temp gets up to a balmy single-digit Fahrenheit. I've driven every car I've owned fairly hard, but safely based on conditions. The difference is striking. Driving's always been a joy to me. I refuse to compromise. And I relish driving in every season.
 
Maybe your jury's out on it. But mine and many others' juries aren't. I've been using two sets of wheels and tires for every car I've owned for 20 years. There's no comparison. We have high humidity, hot summers with frequent 90+ degree Fahrenheit days and cold, dry winters with snow and usually a week or so where the temp gets up to a balmy single-digit Fahrenheit. I've driven every car I've owned fairly hard, but safely based on conditions. The difference is striking. Driving's always been a joy to me. I refuse to compromise. And I relish driving in every season.
I understand what you are saying about wanting to enjoy driving all the time. So far, just being IN the Stinger is enjoyable. So I don't mind driving very conservatively, not pushing for any limits, with these A/S tires when the roads are total crap. As @Jimmer pointed out, in the metro areas of SLC (really the entire Wasatch Front, not in the canyons), those kinds of bad weather days are not that common; with periods lasting days or even weeks up near 50F, sometimes even above that. So the few times we have to back off are justified by the bulk of days where winter tires would drive a driver like you nuts. Surely, you're not advocating swapping tires weekly?
 
Maybe your jury's out on it. But mine and many others' juries aren't. I've been using two sets of wheels and tires for every car I've owned for 20 years. There's no comparison. We have high humidity, hot summers with frequent 90+ degree Fahrenheit days and cold, dry winters with snow and usually a week or so where the temp gets up to a balmy single-digit Fahrenheit. I've driven every car I've owned fairly hard, but safely based on conditions. The difference is striking. Driving's always been a joy to me. I refuse to compromise. And I relish driving in every season.
I second that. When you have real winters, a proper set for the season is a must. Well... not a "must". Obviously you can muddle along in all seasons, but I want to drive my Stinger as much and as safely as I can in winter. Bonus: along with all the other great characteristics of the car, it's one of the best passenger-cars I've ever owned for winter driving. (Double-bonus: find a deserted snow-covered parking lot on a weekend morning, put it in Sport, and turn off traction-control Yee-Haw! :devil:)
 
When you have real winters, a proper set for the season is a must.
I'm not going to argue this: I would have winter tires too. But yesterday for most of twenty-four hours we had crap on our roads. The saline solution was poured on and the plows heaved the guck off. Today, less than 24 hours later, the roads were 99% plus dried out; not just cleared of snow, but bone DRY. And it isn't because the temps got warmer all of a sudden: it never got above freezing, if it did at all. Last night after the storming right up to c. noon, it dropped into the teens. And the highs near or around 30F lasted for maybe a couple of hours. Winter tires in these kinds of conditions are unnecessary. We almost never see black ice. And you can visibly tell if there is a danger of black ice: the pavement was wet as night fell and the temps dropped suddenly. It might even get a dusting of light fresh snow. Danger, Will Robinson! That is when a smart winter driver will drop his speed a lot. If he thinks that his snow tires being better than A/S on ice are going to save him, his mindset is cruising for a tree or ditch.
 
I'm not going to argue this: I would have winter tires too. But yesterday for most of twenty-four hours we had crap on our roads. The saline solution was poured on and the plows heaved the guck off. Today, less than 24 hours later, the roads were 99% plus dried out; not just cleared of snow, but bone DRY. And it isn't because the temps got warmer all of a sudden: it never got above freezing, if it did at all. Last night after the storming right up to c. noon, it dropped into the teens. And the highs near or around 30F lasted for maybe a couple of hours. Winter tires in these kinds of conditions are unnecessary. We almost never see black ice. And you can visibly tell if there is a danger of black ice: the pavement was wet as night fell and the temps dropped suddenly. It might even get a dusting of light fresh snow. Danger, Will Robinson! That is when a smart winter driver will drop his speed a lot. If he thinks that his snow tires being better than A/S on ice are going to save him, his mindset is cruising for a tree or ditch.
Agreed that driving on ice-covered roads is it's own category. Short of studded tires, the winter tire rubber compounds and tread patterns aren't going to impart enough extra friction to make a big difference. Still, for pretty-much any snow-covered condition - wet snow, dry snow, slush, whatever - my experience is that good winter tires make a world of difference.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Agreed that driving on ice-covered roads is it's own category. Short of studded tires, the winter tire rubber compounds and tread patterns aren't going to impart enough extra friction to make a big difference. Still, for pretty-much any snow-covered condition - wet snow, dry snow, slush, whatever - my experience is that good winter tires make a world of difference.
I wouldn't put up with driving like Ginger on A/S day after miserable day, pretty much the whole winter, either; especially where winters are Looong. I'd be on the highest performance winter tread I could find.
 
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I wouldn't put up with driving like Ginger on A/S day after miserable day, pretty much the whole winter, either; especially where winters are Looong. I'd be on the highest performance winter tread I could find.
I'm"pickin' up what you're layin' down". I'm really pleased with my winter's (Michelin Ice-X), but there certainly are compromises. I've pretty-much written off the normal spirited driving until spring. That said, I get an occasional "fix" on the aforementioned deserted snow-covered parking lots. It's as much fun as a guy can have with his pants on! :D
 
I am not surprised. Most of my "information" is old, since this is my first high tech car. Are you going to assert that turning it off before it gets to full operating temperature is "old information" too? My adjusting to what you said will just mean I roll out of my driveway after c. forty seconds, and either take a longer route, or let the engine finish warming up at the far end of the short drives.

My understanding is that best for the engine is to take off immediately after start rather than wait. This will make the engine warm faster and stop the deteriorated lubrication caused by non-gaseous extra gasoline.

As for stopping before it is fully warm, I don’t really know but letting the engine idle at the finish to fully heat up is probably not a good idea for the same reason as idling at the start.
 
As for stopping before it is fully warm, I don’t really know but letting the engine idle at the finish to fully heat up is probably not a good idea for the same reason as idling at the start.
Er, this doesn't feel right to me. Old school dies hard. :P Kia only says that if you run a lot of low RPM, like in stop and go-slow rush hour traffic, that you should change your engine oil more often. There isn't any mention of this "non-gaseous extra gasoline" danger.

Also, idling at the end of a short drive that didn't quite bring the engine temp to maximum operating temp wouldn't take very long; probably no longer than idling a couple of times at a long traffic light does.

ISG could be useful to lower idling times if that is indeed not good for the engine. It's meant to save gasoline. But if there really is something to what you are saying about "deteriorated lubrication" (Greek to me!) then any reduction of idling the engine would be a good thing.
 
Well, y'all talked me into it, but more rather- It's icy and snowy here and I've never driven more slippery tires than these summers. I might as well go for the 2nd set to have the best performance for both winters and summers, while getting twice the life out of their treads (one way to help rationalize the additional cost). So I'm off to Discount Tires to see what they have to offer to start with.

Oh, and I let it warm up a wee bit before gingerly motoring along until she's warmed up.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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