Smart cruise control conditions not met.

The bumper admittedly doesn't line up 100% perfectly if you inspect it closely, as to be expected anytime you remove a panel and place it back.
Have a close look at other new Stingers in the dealer's lot, and see if their alignment is any better. It's not uncommon to see some panel gap variation when fitting a large flexible part like the bumper cover and aligning it with the metal fenders/hood - even from the factory.

Having said that, if yours is considerably out of whack, have the dealer adjust it. In addition to the push-in plastic rivets there are some screw fasteners, so they can loosen these off and make minor adjustments to the panel alignment. :thumbup:
 
Just bought a Stinger two weeks ago, smart cruise worked on the 2 hour ride home then stopped working for about a week. Right as I was ready to make a dealer appt. after reading this thread it started working and has been working for around a week since.
 
As per some of the other posts, the only time mine has failed on me thus far is when I've tried to resume without setting a speed first.
 
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Just bought a Stinger two weeks ago, smart cruise worked on the 2 hour ride home then stopped working for about a week. Right as I was ready to make a dealer appt. after reading this thread it started working and has been working for around a week since.
Mine did the same about a month ago randomly. A week later magically started working
 
My suspicion is that the goofy use of the driver's movement of the steering wheel to decide whether their hands are on the wheel, and then use the results of that decision to control the LKA availability and cruise control functions is involved with a bunch of the mysterious, seemingly unrelated, random functions that won't start or stop working and come and go with an apparent mind of their own. It wouldn't surprise me at all if somewhere down in the list of many conditions that the ISG requires is a connection to this same decision.
 
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Bought a Premium Saturday, and didn't try the smart cruise during the test drive (lesson learned). Tried it first time on Monday and it didn't work. Figured it was user error and went back to the dealer this morning. Two guys went for a spin with me and we couldn't get it to work. Dropped it off at service at 930 and they called me at around 5 pm to say they can't figure it out and are keeping it longer. Really frustrating to not have my new car, but at least I have a Forte loaner (groan). Will update if/when they fix it to hopefully point others in the right direction.
 
Finally got it back today (put in Wed morning picked up 6PM Friday). It was the same as an earlier poster mentioned where they had to take off the bumper and re-calibrate the radar. Tried to tell them that on Wed, but they didn't listen. Oh well. She's home. ;)
 
I hated the smart cruise control...Pulled fuse from module 7. I now have normal cruise and no undesired braking...
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Just click again on the cruise button and you get 2 more modes: classic cruise and speed limiter.
 
I ran into this same problem, Have a 2019 GT2, been using SCC for 3 years no issues until yesterday afternoon. The SCC was engaged and came up on a merging lane, as it was slowing down I took over and put the brake on which disabled the SCC. All normal however after that it gave me the message conditions not met and has not been able to be used ever since. I tried changing to manual and back, turning on and off Traction control, Auto Hold , Electronic Break toggling, LKA on and off, Changing settings multiple times in the menu for SCC reaction etc. checked for lose wires that I could see on the Camera by the Rear View, tried cleaning window and Radar cover. I have a feeling I will need them to do the alignment or take off the bumper which I really would hate to have to do, but I scheduled the appointment next week so I'll give it a week to see if it may correct itself. But its a feature I use very often so would want to get it fixed. I recently added a front lip splitter to the Car but I did not remove or align the bumper in anyway, I only put my car up on Rhino ramps and just drilled in the Lip spoiler into the existing bottom bumper. Lots of others have had this done so I don't think it could be that I'll keep trying it for the next week and see if I can get anything else to bring it back to life.
 
Had this issue a couple weeks ago, just after it went in for a service (so I was rather annoyed). It just stopped working mid-drive. It was a wet day so I thought that had something to do with it. Anyway, I had my iPhone connected and was using Waze through Apple CarPlay, when I disconnected the phone, got rid of excess open Apps and reconnected it the SCC started working again. No idea why, but it worked for me.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Not an error. It is telling you exactly what is going on. At the moment you tried to sett he cruise control, the required parameters weren't met.

They aren’t clear on what isn’t being met
 
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Resurrecting an old thread to potentially help someone with this issue.

For about the last 3 weeks my SCC would not engage with the message: "Conditions not met". It happened suddenly as it worked on the way to the office and didn't on the drive home and was then out for 3 weeks until:

I put a screwdriver through the grille on the left-side (passenger side) of the SCC module (centre of grille) and pressed inwards on the wiring harness connector for the SCC module. It has a fair bit of play in it and i'm guessing a rock or a bug moved it slightly. It wasn't unclipped, but apparently wiggling it around was enough to resolve the issue. Bug guts inside the connector maybe? Who knows.

Tried it this morning and problem is gone.
 
I was 5h into a 6h road trip when I came to a stop in traffic and the engine start stop kicked in.(forgot to disable like usual) After that the smart cruise won’t come back online. It’s now been days.

I use smart cruise every day on my commute for the last 2y:
- I wiped down the sensor, no major debris.
- traction control, stability control are both enabled
- lane assist is enabled
- engine start stop is disabled
- no other dash lights are on
- I’m pressing down, for set, not up for resume.
- I read the manual all the way through.
- I read every post on this thread.

The fix: stick your finger through the front grill to the passenger side of the radar sensor and wiggle the connector plug. ‍♂️ it’s working now
 
I was 5h into a 6h road trip when I came to a stop in traffic and the engine start stop kicked in.(forgot to disable like usual) After that the smart cruise won’t come back online. It’s now been days.

I use smart cruise every day on my commute for the last 2y:
- I wiped down the sensor, no major debris.
- traction control, stability control are both enabled
- lane assist is enabled
- engine start stop is disabled
- no other dash lights are on
- I’m pressing down, for set, not up for resume.
- I read the manual all the way through.
- I read every post on this thread.

The fix: stick your finger through the front grill to the passenger side of the radar sensor and wiggle the connector plug. ‍♂️ it’s working now
Superb. Glad that fixed it and my post was helpful.
 
It wasn't unclipped, but apparently wiggling it around was enough to resolve the issue. Bug guts inside the connector maybe? Who knows.
The fix: stick your finger through the front grill to the passenger side of the radar sensor and wiggle the connector plug
I don't think of the Stinger as being old enough to suffer from connector corrosion, but I guess oxidation is probably starting to impact some of them. If it's just surface level, you can rehab & protect them with a couple quick steps:
- Disconnect the plug and spray the contacts with electrical parts cleaner or another mild solvent
- Optionally, physically agitate the connectors with a brass or nylon brush (<$5 kits at Harbor Freight)
- Spray dielectric/silicone grease into the connectors (don't completely fill them or it'll squeeze out everywhere)

The dielectric grease is an insulator, which may seem counterintuitive, but when you plug the connector in you'll have a metal to metal friction fit for the electrical signal, then grease displacing moisture and coating the parts of the pins that would be exposed to oxidation. It can also help protect the o-rings and keep the connectors from binding.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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