Ahhh, gotcha, so the Flowmaster's are still in there. I was gonna say, your exhaust is way better sounding than the Grips I've heard elsewhere. I'm considering keeping my stock axle back and getting the Ultimate Performance HFC primary, catless secondary's, that'll open up the airway significantly but not sound all harsh.
Ahhh, gotcha, so the Flowmaster's are still in there. I was gonna say, your exhaust is way better sounding than the Grips I've heard elsewhere. I'm considering keeping my stock axle back and getting the Ultimate Performance HFC primary, catless secondary's, that'll open up the airway significantly but not sound all harsh.
I bought my Ark a long time ago but if I did this now I would probably go Magnaflow, silenced secondary, then HFC primary if you want. All super high flow and shouldn't be very loud.
I like the ark flow master combo but going that round about way costs way to much.
Its also in a narrow rpm range. The average additional TQ and HP were +1 for both on the Dyno i saw.
I think i have figured out how Manufacturers can get high or inconsistent HP gains. Our cars vary the boost by 2 or 3 PSI based on Intake temps. Yesterday i did a logged and dragy 0-60 at IAT 75 and ran a leasurly 4.20 seconds. A few hours later with my IAT near 100 i ran 4.0 flat. The logs do show the peak HP being about 2 PSI different. (I've also seen this many times before in logs around 55-60 IAT least boost, 95-100 IAT full boost.)
So if you do the before test when the car arrives at the shop and the IATs are low from driving you get less boost and less HP. Install the pipes car sits, IATs increase and boom 20 more HP just from changing the IATs.
That seems really weird, to crank UP the boost with higher IATs - or is it more that it's cutting power slightly when you're getting cold air and would be making the most power, to reduce wear on the drivetrain?
That seems really weird, to crank UP the boost with higher IATs - or is it more that it's cutting power slightly when you're getting cold air and would be making the most power, to reduce wear on the drivetrain?
95 IAT isn't really hot. That's highway cruising on a 70-75 degree day, or stop light to stop light on a 50 degree day. I would consider the high boost normal and the lowered boost the exception. If you get really hot like 145 150+ the timing starts to drop. Its more to keep power constant when cold since the air is more dense. I've also heard KDMs overboost easily when cold so could be that also.
The car is certainly faster at 30 degrees and 45 IAT but on a 60 degree day at 75 IAT its slower than when its hotter or colder, and may give varying dyno readings.
