Shaking

[sutton43]

Steering wheel shaking when braking fast

 

[AWDGT2]

This has been covered 1,000 times FAQ: Vibration under braking: warped rotors? NO!

 

[Daniel @ K8 Stinger Store]

Steering wheel shaking when braking fast

@sutton43, this is a very common issue with the OEM brake pads on the Stinger. We had this issue with our Stinger, but we couldn't find a pad that fit our needs, so we created our own. The K8SS Elite Sport Ceramic Pads will fix the issue caused by OEM pads as well as outperform them. These pads don't squeal or clunk either, and produce much less brake dust. Let me know if you have any questions.

2018-2023 Kia Stinger - K8SS Elite Sport Ceramic Brake Pads

K8SS ceramic brake pads for the Kia Stinger 3.3T stop shaking, reduce dust, improve braking power, direct OEM fit, no mods needed, free shipping continental US.

www.k8stingerstore.com

 

[undymm]

From what I have read on the internet and from my own 55 years of experience, I dare say that the pads for the European version of the Stinger do not have problems that end in vibration under braking. So the solution would be to order them for the European version. I have 72000 km on mine and no sign of vibration

 

[Stanger21]

UK Stinger here and never had any sign of vibration from the brakes. They squeal like a pig on it's honeymoon though.

 

[D.J.]

From what I have read on the internet and from my own 55 years of experience, I dare say that the pads for the European version of the Stinger do not have problems that end in vibration under braking. So the solution would be to order them for the European version. I have 72000 km on mine and no sign of vibration

That is one of the many solutions.

Powerstop Z26 and DFC5000 pads seem to work well also

 

[Thomby]

That is one of the many solutions.

Powerstop Z26 and DFC5000 pads seem to work well also

Is there a summary comparison (bite/noise/dust) between the popular options? Could've sworn I saw one a while back but didn't save it

 

[D.J.]

Is there a summary comparison (bite/noise/dust) between the popular options? Could've sworn I saw one a while back but didn't save it

There are countless threads with countless posts, it is extremely difficult to find what you are looking for - a convenient, and accurate summary of various brake pad performance metrics.

If you find it, save it.

 

[Thomby]

There are countless threads with countless posts, it is extremely difficult to find what you are looking for - a convenient, and accurate summary of various brake pad performance metrics.

If you find it, save it.

I think it was this one I was remembering, but it doesn't compare braking characteristics, just lists the options with part numbers:

Stinger Brake Pads Replacement

I put together a doc while researching brakes that might help other using this thread and others: Front uses a 1001 “brake slot size” which is pretty generic and thus many options fit this. Difference between generic and car specific seems to be some anti-squeal weights attached that may or...

stingerforum.org

 

[D.J.]

I think it was this one I was remembering, but it doesn't compare braking characteristics, just lists the options with part numbers:

Stinger Brake Pads Replacement

I put together a doc while researching brakes that might help other using this thread and others: Front uses a 1001 “brake slot size” which is pretty generic and thus many options fit this. Difference between generic and car specific seems to be some anti-squeal weights attached that may or...

stingerforum.org

Now I am curious about the DFC5000 low metallic vs DFC5000 Ceramic.

I presently have the DFC 5000 ceramic on my car braking performance is excellent, but after ~20,000 km, they have begun to exhibit minor vibrations.. (likely pad deposits).

Curious if the low metallic version would be better for pad deposits (harsher on rotors) with increased noise.

 

[Thomby]

Now I am curious about the DFC5000 low metallic vs DFC5000 Ceramic.

I presently have the DFC 5000 ceramic on my car braking performance is excellent, but after ~20,000 km, they have begun to exhibit minor vibrations.. (likely pad deposits).

Curious if the low metallic version would be better for pad deposits (harsher on rotors) with increased noise.

Wish you hadn't told me that...DFC ceramics were on my short list. Although at 24k miles I have tons of life left on my stock pads so debating whether it's worth tossing them. I've noticed the pulsing a few times in the last year and a half or so, but a couple firm applications of the brakes has been all it took to clean them up so far.

 

[D.J.]

Wish you hadn't told me that...DFC ceramics were on my short list. Although at 24k miles I have tons of life left on my stock pads so debating whether it's worth tossing them. I've noticed the pulsing a few times in the last year and a half or so, but a couple firm applications of the brakes has been all it took to clean them up so far.

The pulsations I have currently are minor, was way worse with OEM pads.

Some aggressive decelerations do seem to reduce the pulsations, but weeks later they are back .

So it kinda comes and goes, but never completely gone...

I am not dissatisfied with the DFC5000 ceramics, - but they are not perfect for me.

Braking performance, under hard braking , is excellent. The pulsations are only felt with gentlen braking.

Hard braking = much less pulsation.

 

[LordKOTL]

One thing I noticed on a recent road trip.

While in smart cruise control going down a large hill, the vibes came back; not as bad as OEM but enough that my wife noticed. When I next stopped, I noticed an imperial buttload (38.7 metric shit-tonnes ) of brake dust around the rims.

I think in smart cruise, the brakes are ligltly applied to maintain speed as opposed to downshifting, and I think this might cause, if not exacerbate, the deposits that cause pulsation.

I haven't been able to sus out what happens if you manually downshift and/or control your speed by braking harder rather than very light braking yet, but initial findings on smaller hills and gradients seem to have some promise.

 

[D.J.]

I haven't been able to sus out what happens if you manually downshift and/or control your speed by braking harder rather than very light braking yet, but initial findings on smaller hills and gradients seem to have some promise.

I concur with this line of though.

Same, nothing concrete yet. Just initial observations

 

[Thomby]

While in smart cruise control going down a large hill, the vibes came back; not as bad as OEM but enough that my wife noticed. When I next stopped, I noticed an imperial buttload (38.7 metric shit-tonnes ) of brake dust around the rims.

I think in smart cruise, the brakes are ligltly applied to maintain speed as opposed to downshifting, and I think this might cause, if not exacerbate, the deposits that cause pulsation.

Can confirm that smart cruise will apply the brakes vs. letting your speed rise on hills. Which is why you can get a little better mileage without CC if you have several (building momentum on the downhill then slowing uphill, vs. braking down and accelerating back up).

I'm not sure that it would make pad deposits worse though. It's going to be a light, continuous application, which will put some heat into them but you're not stopping with the pads against the rotors, and you have plenty air flow for cooling. I'd expect it to either gradually grind your rotors clean, or have no effect if the braking is too light.

 

[LordKOTL]

Can confirm that smart cruise will apply the brakes vs. letting your speed rise on hills. Which is why you can get a little better mileage without CC if you're driving through a series of them (building up momentum on the downhill then slowing uphill, vs. braking down and accelerating back up).

I'm not sure that it would make pad deposits worse though. It's going to be a light, continuous application, which I guess will put some heat into them but you're not coming to a stop where they'd sit against one spot on the rotor, and you have plenty air flow for cooling. I'd expect that it would either gradually grind your rotors clean, or have no effect if the braking is too light...

My thinking is that the braking in smart CC down a hill is light enough to spread deposits on the rotors without enough pressure to scour *all* deposits off the rotor, and as the brake force varies, the thickness of the scoured or deposited deposits vary. Hence the pulsation.

At least that's my hypothesis; I'd need the time and location to actually test it.

 

[D.J.]

My thinking is that the braking in smart CC down a hill is light enough to spread deposits on the rotors without enough pressure to scour *all* deposits off the rotor, and as the brake force varies, the thickness of the scoured or deposited deposits vary. Hence the pulsation.

At least that's my hypothesis; I'd need the time and location to actually test it.

I have experienced - at least anecdotally, that when I brake more aggressively for a shorter time, rather than gently for a longer time, my rotors tend to remain pulsation free for longer.

Anecdotally

 

[Snicklefritz]

My method of braking downhill was taught by my dad and I've always employed it. Push firmly and let off, repeat as necessary. Never hold your speed back by riding the brakes downhill. I'll shift into 5th gear to assist with the braking if necessary.

 

[LordKOTL]

I have experienced - at least anecdotally, that when I brake more aggressively for a shorter time, rather than gently for a longer time, my rotors tend to remain pulsation free for longer.

Anecdotally

Exactly. I'd like to test this scientifically at some point.

My method of braking downhill was taught by my dad and I've always employed it. Push firmly and let off, repeat as necessary. Never hold your speed back by riding the brakes downhill. I'll shift into 5th gear to assist with the braking if necessary.

Yup. Except when in Smart CC, the stingers seem to maintain speed by riding the brakes, not downshifting.

I think that is exacerbating, or causing, the pulsation. I'd want to test it with a long hill that has 50+ speed. Let Smart CC maintain speed however it does, then try engine braking, and the merhod you describe.

 

[D.J.]

My method of braking downhill was taught by my dad and I've always employed it. Push firmly and let off, repeat as necessary. Never hold your speed back by riding the brakes downhill. I'll shift into 5th gear to assist with the braking if necessary.

Notably, you can still downshift a few gears, while using Smart Cruise Control..