3.3TT RWD - 19 inch - Alignment

[WRXtoStingerGT]

i‘ve had it happen with new tires many moons ago. It’s not a defect per se and usually swapping the tires on one axle resolves it. Worth a shot, an hour of your time and a bit of wrenching is free.

For sure!! Will give it a shot!

What you might be feeling is the crown in the road, which can cause a car to drift right when in the right hand lane. Try driving in the left lane to see if the car drifts left. If it does then your car is sensitive to road crown. This has been the case for me with other cars.

Ah that could be it! So that's not exactly a bad thing huh? What I find interesting, and again this might be in my head, but it feels like there is slight resistance turning the steering wheel to the left when driving. Or I am just crazy!

 

[byebyeSTI]

after doing like 3 different alignments with different specs including the oem numbers i went rouge and , really started feeling how the car reacts to certain set ups , the difference is dramatic , the set up i like the best is

front camber .8 - up front
front toe .06 -

rear camber -1.0
rear toe .16 -

it leaves the car balanced , with a quicker turn in and feels very solid at speed not twitchy or lethargic like the oem numbers gave me . and drives straight even on less than perfect road conditions ,

 

[GT Elite]

For sure!! Will give it a shot!


Ah that could be it! So that's not exactly a bad thing huh? What I find interesting, and again this might be in my head, but it feels like there is slight resistance turning the steering wheel to the left when driving. Or I am just crazy!

No that is not a bad thing. The resistance you feel turning to the left is overcoming the “tug” from the road crown. This tendency can be somewhat compensated for by having slightly more caster on the right front wheel than the left (ie: caster lead). However, such a setup will make the car drift more to the left when in the left lane…there is always a trade-off!

ByebyeSTi’s alignment spec’s are interesting, but I would be curious to know how the camber gets adjusted as I thought the camber cannot be adjusted on our cars. Also, there is no setting for front and rear caster, but those suggestions are really helpful, and IMHO are not all that “rogue”.

 

[byebyeSTI]

ByebyeSTi’s alignment spec’s are interesting, but I would be curious to know how the camber gets adjusted as I thought the camber cannot be adjusted on our cars. Also, there is no setting for front and rear caster, but those suggestions are really helpful, and IMHO are not all that “rogue”.

camber is done with an spc strut bolt kit up front / plenty of adjustment on the rear for camber stock . not that rogue i guess but it really made a difference in my car it was way out of wack from the factory . i like the last settings i posted a lot better than the oem specs . im also considering getting the subframe collars as well to keep it dialed in better

 

[GT Elite]

ByebyeSTi’s alignment spec’s are interesting, but I would be curious to know how the camber gets adjusted as I thought the camber cannot be adjusted on our cars. Also, there is no setting for front and rear caster, but those suggestions are really helpful, and IMHO are not all that “rogue”.

camber is done with an spc strut bolt kit up front / plenty of adjustment on the rear for camber stock . not that rogue i guess but it really made a difference in my car it was way out of wack from the factory . i like the last settings i posted a lot better than the oem specs . im also considering getting the subframe collars as well to keep it dialed in better

I noticed I made an error in my last post. I meant to say camber cannot be adjusted (not caster, which can be adjusted) but glad to see that you figured out what I meant to say.

I’ve had my car for almost 3 weeks and it have the sub-frame collars installed along with front and rear Eibach sway bars. It has also had a 4-wheel alignment done…to OEM spec’s (toe was out on both ens of the car, caster and camber were within nominal spec’s).

Thanks for the heads up on the strut bolt kit…I will definitely be looking into that.

 

[byebyeSTI]

I noticed I made an error in my last post. I meant to say camber cannot be adjusted (not caster, which can be adjusted) but glad to see that you figured out what I meant to say.

I’ve had my car for almost 3 weeks and it have the sub-frame collars installed along with front and rear Eibach sway bars. It has also had a 4-wheel alignment done…to OEM spec’s (toe was out on both ens of the car, caster and camber were within nominal spec’s).

Thanks for the heads up on the strut bolt kit…I will definitely be looking into that.

no worries , i also have the same sway bar kit , best mod ive done for sure so far ,, next is the ark gtf spring set and maybe a new set of wheels if i can ever decide which ones i want

 

[RogueIV]

No that is not a bad thing. The resistance you feel turning to the left is overcoming the “tug” from the road crown. This tendency can be somewhat compensated for by having slightly more caster on the right front wheel than the left (ie: caster lead). However, such a setup will make the car drift more to the left when in the left lane…there is always a trade-off!

ByebyeSTi’s alignment spec’s are interesting, but I would be curious to know how the camber gets adjusted as I thought the camber cannot be adjusted on our cars. Also, there is no setting for front and rear caster, but those suggestions are really helpful, and IMHO are not all that “rogue”.

Front camber and caster isn't adjustable but rear camber is adjustable via an eccentric on the lower arm mounts of the subframe.

 

[WRXtoStingerGT]

Bookmarked and taking notes!

Holy cow you people are smart!

Thank you all btw!

 

[7Andrei7]

Should I be worried about this tire wear pattern? I had an alignment check just before putting on the new tires and it was ok.
I have staggered 19" and RWD with no ECS (it says it's "sport" tuned from factory). I keep 2.5 bar pressure all around, as required.
To me it looks like I have inside wear on the front which makes me think that maybe some joints are starting to fail (87.000 km).
And at the rear I strangely have no wear on the outside.

 

[RogueIV]

Looks like you have slightly too much pressure in the rear. Also maybe a bit more negative camber than you need or you don't do a lot of tight cornering

 

[7Andrei7]

I would say about 30% of my driving is pretty sporty and the rest is fairly normal.
My pressure at the rear does raise 0.1 bar more than the fronts. Meaning all four start at 2.5 bar when they're cold and then increase to 2,6-2,7 in the front and 2,7-2,8 in the rear.
I'll do a new alignment check as soon as I can to make sure nothing changed.

 

[RogueIV]

If you drive alot with the car empty you can go a little be lower in pressure especially in the rear. The recommended pressure is for a fully loaded car.