MerlintheMad
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My "fast ride" earlier this year was with the pilot summers; and I did my best to have the psi at the recommended 38/36. Today I was looking at the G meter as I accelerated on a cloverleaf, still inflated to 40 psi all around (the TPMS showed 40 psi, which means, near as I have been able to determine, closer to c. 42 psi, since the TPMS seem to read two to three pounds low); so of course I am running on tires that are a bit over inflated: deliberately so, as I want a bit more cushion in case of potholes. The G meter peaked at .8 G. I was impressed (new to this sort of thing): but at the same time I wondered if the Pilot summers would have taken the car right up to .9 G before making noise; at .8 G the Motivos were roaring (not howling). Everything still felt controlled, despite .8 G being the most I have felt against the seat bolster so far. What I took for "spirited" cornering before was not pushing very hard, it turns out.
(Btw, I've been driving with the G meter displayed for the first time, this past week, intent on seeing how close I can get to that reported .93 G on the 300' skid pad I read about. After this .8 G, and the amount of noise, I won't push for more unless I drop the psi down to the recommended 38/36: try it again, and then see if that makes the noise less at .8 G. If so, then I will try running a few pounds lower than recommended and see what that does noise-wise. I am going on the assumption that when the tires start to roar, we are very close to a "howl", which is at the break of adhesion. So lower tire noise should mean that higher cornering speed is still available. And if the G meter shows .8 with lower tire noise, I can push higher. Of course, the next step is to slap the Michelins back on in the spring and start at the recommended psi and go to .8 G and find out what noise, if any, the tires give off: and then go from there. My hypothesis is naturally that the Michelins will handle .9 handily, and possibly reach 1 G with a lot of noise: but only if that .93 was a "do this all day" G force? I don't know. I do know that my SCCA friend drove cars that pulled 4 Gs at over 150 mph. And that simply boggles my imagination. How can someone drive for a long time, or even a moderate amount of time, with such forces exerted on your arms? There has to be some serious bracing going on at those kinds of G forces. Feel free to enlighten me!)
(Btw, I've been driving with the G meter displayed for the first time, this past week, intent on seeing how close I can get to that reported .93 G on the 300' skid pad I read about. After this .8 G, and the amount of noise, I won't push for more unless I drop the psi down to the recommended 38/36: try it again, and then see if that makes the noise less at .8 G. If so, then I will try running a few pounds lower than recommended and see what that does noise-wise. I am going on the assumption that when the tires start to roar, we are very close to a "howl", which is at the break of adhesion. So lower tire noise should mean that higher cornering speed is still available. And if the G meter shows .8 with lower tire noise, I can push higher. Of course, the next step is to slap the Michelins back on in the spring and start at the recommended psi and go to .8 G and find out what noise, if any, the tires give off: and then go from there. My hypothesis is naturally that the Michelins will handle .9 handily, and possibly reach 1 G with a lot of noise: but only if that .93 was a "do this all day" G force? I don't know. I do know that my SCCA friend drove cars that pulled 4 Gs at over 150 mph. And that simply boggles my imagination. How can someone drive for a long time, or even a moderate amount of time, with such forces exerted on your arms? There has to be some serious bracing going on at those kinds of G forces. Feel free to enlighten me!)