New Stinger Owner

Looks very sharp! The more cars I see with this ceramic coating makes me want to get mine done.
Thanks! It was honestly super easy. If you can wax a car you can apply the Avalon King. Time will tell for how long it will hold up and the prep is the most important part. I was fortunate to coat the car with less than 300 miles so there was no real correction needed. I did a minor buff to remove any surface swirls, then stripped the compound off and applied the coating.
 
I'm overdue for pictures so here we go!
Here is right after Avalon King Ceramic Coating along with a close up of the sparkle!
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Next I swapped out the KIA badge. I really like how the black chrome matches the trim and the checker pattern plays off the grill design:
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I got what is probably my last hand wash in for the year this weekend:
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And lastly, I debadged the GT and AWD and swapped the chrome stinger for black. I really like the symmetry in the back now and how much cleaner it looks.
Before:
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After:
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The Ceramic coating looks fantastic. Can you tell me more about it? How expensive? Great job, Seef. And, thanks for sharing.
 
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The Ceramic coating looks fantastic. Can you tell me more about it? How expensive? Great job, Seef. And, thanks for sharing.
Ceramic Coating is an extra layer of protection on top of your clear coat (and glass or plastics if you want). There is a lot of good material out there for what it does, but it more or less fills in any imperfections in the clear coat and creates a harder layer of protection. When I say fill in, it does not hide any imperfections like swirls or scratches. According to Avalon King, their product (and likely the same for cQuartz and others) is harder than the clear coat so it does not scratch quite as easily. It is also extremely hydrophobic. So it makes cleaning the car easier as well.

As for pricing, I paid $45 for my application. It is normally $70, but they had an intro pricing deal for first timers and I snagged it up. Applying the Ceramic Coating is really no different than applying a liquid wax. You rub an amount on one panel at a time, wait ~5 minutes, then buff it off with a microfiber towel.

Where most of the cost comes from when you are looking to pay someone to do the coating is the prep work. Because Ceramic Coating is adding a layer of protection, if your paint/clear coat is not perfect before you coating, it wont be perfect after. So depending on how much prep work your car needs determines how much a professional shop would pay.

Seeing how easy it is to do all of these steps though, I would never pay a shop to do this work. I have a cheap dual action orbital from Harbor Freight and some decent pads from Chemical Guys and a couple different polishes and such. All it takes is time, and I kind of enjoy it and certainly love the outcome. If we can get some decent weather soon (and it doesnt snow too much this week) I can get my wife to use her real camera to take some pictures rather than my phone.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Ceramic Coating is an extra layer of protection on top of your clear coat (and glass or plastics if you want). There is a lot of good material out there for what it does, but it more or less fills in any imperfections in the clear coat and creates a harder layer of protection. When I say fill in, it does not hide any imperfections like swirls or scratches. According to Avalon King, their product (and likely the same for cQuartz and others) is harder than the clear coat so it does not scratch quite as easily. It is also extremely hydrophobic. So it makes cleaning the car easier as well.

As for pricing, I paid $45 for my application. It is normally $70, but they had an intro pricing deal for first timers and I snagged it up. Applying the Ceramic Coating is really no different than applying a liquid wax. You rub an amount on one panel at a time, wait ~5 minutes, then buff it off with a microfiber towel.

Where most of the cost comes from when you are looking to pay someone to do the coating is the prep work. Because Ceramic Coating is adding a layer of protection, if your paint/clear coat is not perfect before you coating, it wont be perfect after. So depending on how much prep work your car needs determines how much a professional shop would pay.

Seeing how easy it is to do all of these steps though, I would never pay a shop to do this work. I have a cheap dual action orbital from Harbor Freight and some decent pads from Chemical Guys and a couple different polishes and such. All it takes is time, and I kind of enjoy it and certainly love the outcome. If we can get some decent weather soon (and it doesnt snow too much this week) I can get my wife to use her real camera to take some pictures rather than my phone.
Thanks for the information. It is really helpful. And, I am lusting after your vehicle. :unsure:
 
Its been a while since I have posted anything about my Stinger. I am thoroughly enjoying this car. This February we took it for a drive out to the mountains in Montana and found it to be a great road trip car.

In November I added some tint to the taillights as well as swapped the reverse bulbs for LED. I really love the way the back looks now with the black stinger badge and tinted tails!

Then, I finally was able to sell my Cobb and full exhaust from my WRX which allowed me to get the "450 WHP pack" from BMS! I installed the Denso plugs (gapped to 0.22), oil catch can, and JB4 with fuel wires yesterday (6/13/21 with 6900 miles on the car). I took the car for a little test drive afterwards, and I am very impressed. It pulls quite a bit harder on map 1 and I am really happy with the gains. My intakes arrive today so I hope to get them on this afternoon.

The spark plug install took exactly one hour. It was not as hard as I expected it to be. The driver side went really smoothly, and the trouble passenger side really wasn't THAT bad. Getting the middle coil out was the hardest part, but reading through the long thread beforehand made it relatively easy. I ended up rotating the coil 180* so the connector faced forward and also remove the coil through the front instead of the rear.

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