So, this weekend I spend some time analyzing this "lurching" behavior in more detail. So I did a lot of stopping tests both in manual transmission mode and in full auto. So I am noticing a harsher transition both in and out of 2nd gear which explains what I was experiencing. I will likely take my car to the dealer to address this since my car is still under warranty.
iiiinteresting. Yes the 1st to 2nd gear transition is lurchy in both directions. Less so for the other gears. Let me know what the dealership says/does. I’m also under warranty. I’ve heard that they can “reset” the transmission control unit to fix it in the short term but that it relearns its bad behavior and reverts to the harsh 1->2 and 2–>1 shifts
So just to add a bit more detail about how I tested this lurching issue. I tried to decelerating with and without braking in both full auto (no Paddles) and manually with the paddles. What I found is in full auto mode the lurching is much more pronounces and I could tell that the lurch coincided with me increasing brake pressure due to the convergence of timing as I approached my stopping point. So it was this coincidence that initially led me to believe the issue was caused by the newish brake pads. I now know it is the transmission downshifting from 3 to 2 that is causing this. When I did not down shift manually and just used the brakes to stop there was zero lurching. Running the same test where I brake but in full auto the lurching occurs. So I will take it to my service advisor for them to fix and maybe get a free transmission fluid change for good measure.
try coasting from about 20mph or so in full auto down to crawl speed. it should lurch as well, if not quite as pronounced as if you're on the brake. if so, all you need is a transmission adaptive values reset, which either the dealer can do, or you can buy an OBD tool from amazon and DIY.
try coasting from about 20mph or so in full auto down to crawl speed. it should lurch as well, if not quite as pronounced as if you're on the brake. if so, all you need is a transmission adaptive values reset, which either the dealer can do, or you can buy an OBD tool from amazon and DIY.
depending on your driving style, etc, it can come back in 6 months, or it can take longer. Mine hasn't been bad for about a year now, but that's only about 6-7k miles right now. If you're taking it to the dealer for something else and they'll do it for free, go for it; but consider investing in the tool for the future. it'll have many other uses anyhow, and it's not specific to the stinger, you can use it to diagnose most cars.
