In Utah, all I had to do was get the buyout quote from my Kia financial page (can't remember the exact name for that), write a cheque to HCA Exchange, Inc., include a document with the odometer info, and mail it to the provided address; then wait for just under a month. My title came and the rest is history.
The ROAD! It doesn't have to lead anywhere. Just DRIVE! For the good of your heart and soul. Nobody is going to pull you over for just driving; and if they do, you say you're on your way home after a fruitless shopping trip at the local market.
)."Subtle" differences mostly related to how buttoned down the rear feels, especially when cornering. I followed the advice of an installer on YouTube who said that the factory should send Stingers out with this sway bar. It is the single most effective difference for the least investment. I agree that it was well worth the money for the return in feel. Handling, actual grip and control? I don't think so. A professional driver might even make greater speed in a curve with the OE sway bar than the aftermarket stiffer ones; but not a "normal" driver. Because the rear feels more buttoned down, it fills me with greater confidence so that I drive faster with the aftermarket sway bar, than I would with the rear going up and down and stepping out. A pro driver like Randy Pobst adapts to a car; and he said that the Stinger is "well balanced", if also "softly sprung and damped" compared to higher end performance sedans. The Stinger handles predictably and responds to what these higher level of drivers impose on it; they don't complain of "floaty" or "loose" handling in the rear, because although it exists, they discover it at once and adjust to the car. "We" mostly can't do that at our level of driving skill. So, the Eibach is a good stopgap until we "arrive there" (higher driving skill). I find myself pushing through curves now far more aggressively than a year ago (right after I got the sway bar on). I probably take the clover leaf 10 MPH faster than a year ago using more gas. I don't notice any stepping out or floaty movement. I am still holding off getting the front Eibach, because I like how my car feels and handles as it is.
Glad your Stinger still feels good after 34K, some cars start to develop sloppiness as suspension parts and such begin to wear. At 73, I know all about brain farting, it gets harder and harder to remember how long ago, how many miles back, etc. with each year that passes. Over $700 for a 30K servicing sounds a little expensive, but will typically depend on how many hours of labor and how much the parts run. Sometimes the price will vary depending upon the dealer selected. Did you notice the parts/labor break down on your bill? I have an excellent independent mechanic who works on my Corvette and when I bring in all of the parts and fluids, he typically will do the labor for less than the dealer as well as checking out things that should be looked at. If you can find better prices on oem parts and fluids, ie get Mobil 1 at Costco and pick up filters and the like online, it is not too hard to undercut dealer prices significantly and still maintain your warranty. Still, I think it is good to get some servicing done at the dealer to maintain a good relationship in the event you need warranty work done.The ROAD! It doesn't have to lead anywhere. Just DRIVE! For the good of your heart and soul. Nobody is going to pull you over for just driving; and if they do, you say you're on your way home after a fruitless shopping trip at the local market.
I have c. 33K miles (earlier, somewhere on here, I said 34K, but I was brain farting 32K; don't know why this happens
Maintenance is more than I am used to with junkers as my rides. The last one was the c. 30K miles - equates with Canada's "Service 4", which is the biggie; it was well over $700; but includes full replacement of fluids and filters and a thorough bumper to bumper check and lube, etc. I can handle this. I understand it's a lot less than a German maintenance plan. "Real" high end cars are just ridiculous; a friend replaced his Ferrari for a 911; the Ferrari had $6K wheels and $1K "oil changes". Heh!? The wheel price was avoided by repairing the bent one for c. $600.
"Subtle" differences mostly related to how buttoned down the rear feels, especially when cornering. I followed the advice of an installer on YouTube who said that the factory should send Stingers out with this sway bar. It is the single most effective difference for the least investment. I agree that it was well worth the money for the return in feel. Handling, actual grip and control? I don't think so. A professional driver might even make greater speed in a curve with the OE sway bar than the aftermarket stiffer ones; but not a "normal" driver. Because the rear feels more buttoned down, it fills me with greater confidence so that I drive faster with the aftermarket sway bar, than I would with the rear going up and down and stepping out. A pro driver like Randy Pobst adapts to a car; and he said that the Stinger is "well balanced", if also "softly sprung and damped" compared to higher end performance sedans. The Stinger handles predictably and responds to what these higher level of drivers impose on it; they don't complain of "floaty" or "loose" handling in the rear, because although it exists, they discover it at once and adjust to the car. "We" mostly can't do that at our level of driving skill. So, the Eibach is a good stopgap until we "arrive there" (higher driving skill). I find myself pushing through curves now far more aggressively than a year ago (right after I got the sway bar on). I probably take the clover leaf 10 MPH faster than a year ago using more gas. I don't notice any stepping out or floaty movement. I am still holding off getting the front Eibach, because I like how my car feels and handles as it is.
There won't be another "most expensive one" service again until I hit 60K-something miles. I don't think it was unreasonable considering all that was done. Getting a Stinger serviced isn't any more expensive than some other Kia model with similar stuff. Probably a Soul is the least expensive to get serviced.
If I start to feel strapped in our finances, I'll look into less expensive ways of getting parts and fluids and supply my own (as you suggest), thus only paying for labor.
Really, $700 every two years is not that bad. Compared to our previous car, an MB E350, $700 is reasonable. Of course, you do get a new C class loaner to drive while your car is in the shop, but their B service is a good $1000. This is when they service the transmission, along with the other stuff they normally do.There won't be another "most expensive one" service again until I hit 60K-something miles. I don't think it was unreasonable considering all that was done. Getting a Stinger serviced isn't any more expensive than some other Kia model with similar stuff. Probably a Soul is the least expensive to get serviced.
