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NS_Stinger

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I'm considering installing an intake on my 3.3 but one thing ive noticed on my past cars is that the intakes have always given me a loss of low-end torque in city driving. Can you share what intake youre using and if you noticed a loss in low-end power?
 
I'm using Stillen. I haven't noticed a loss of torque. I wouldn't recommend them to anyone.
 
I'm considering installing an intake on my 3.3 but one thing ive noticed on my past cars is that the intakes have always given me a loss of low-end torque in city driving. Can you share what intake youre using and if you noticed a loss in low-end power?

You are using the wrong intakes if you lose low end power.

I’ve had various intakes on all my cars and never have had that issue including the Stinger.
 
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That's an issue more commonly seen on N/A cars with intake piping that's a little too big. I can't think of a turbo car I've seen that lost power anywhere due to a decent intake design.
 
You are using the wrong intakes if you lose low end power.

I’ve had various intakes on all my cars and never have had that issue including the Stinger.
I dont really want this to turn into a debate, I just want to know what intake everyone is running and if they've experienced low-end power loss. What intake do you have?

If you've noticed most companies only show intake dyno charts from 2500rpm onward the ones that have shown lower have some loss on them from what I've seen.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I dont really want this to turn into a debate, I just want to know what intake everyone is running and if they've experienced low-end power loss. What intake do you have?

If you've noticed most companies only show intake dyno charts from 2500rpm onward the ones that have shown lower have some loss on them from what I've seen.

Every chart I've seen shows a loss in low end torque. That doesn't mean you will actually feel it though. You won't notice if your car is down 5 ft lbs at 1500 rpm.
 
Running the JT intakes. Great build quality and fitment. Noticed a better reposnse on throttle and boost kicks in harder. No loss of low end. Highly recommended

As stated above the low end loss is attributed mostly with NA engine's.
 
If you've noticed most companies only show intake dyno charts from 2500rpm onward the ones that have shown lower have some loss on them from what I've seen.

That's because nearly every dyno in the world - engine or chassis - gives crap numbers below 3,000 RPM just because of how they work. The OEMs can afford much more expensive equipment than the typical tuner and machine shop, although I'm still skeptical of Kia's <1,500rpm rating. You can capture whatever data you want, but if the data is crap, then.....
It's smart to ignore everything below 3,000 and ignore the last 5% to 10% of the run.

Tuning for low (low) end torque on this platform is a poor choice. You can't make the displacement bigger and you can't make the turbos spool from a red light. It is what it is, and that's the way it is for every platform. There's more room up the curve because you can start coercing more air into the engine.

Anyway, if anything, a properly done intake will lower your IAT in traffic which will make the engine more responsive. The main gains are that the stock intake under the front trim is super restrictive, so the engine just can't breath at high RPM.
 
From the feedbacks I have seen in the Korean car community, the K&N open intake does make that the car has less low end torque, just as you said.

EDIT:
The reports are a fact. Now whether this is true or not is to be verified but over several people reported this.
 
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I have the Jonny Tig intake installed and love it. Sounds great and has awesome throttle response.
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I'm considering installing an intake on my 3.3 but one thing ive noticed on my past cars is that the intakes have always given me a loss of low-end torque in city driving. Can you share what intake youre using and if you noticed a loss in low-end power?
ALL high flow intakes move the torque curve higher in the RPM range which technically means a loss in low end power. This is the trade off any intake system provides, slightly less low end for stronger mid-top end power.

Sealed intake boxes, or intakes with long piping have more air restrictions which favors low end power.

I personally have DIY high flow intakes with very short piping for maximum air flow. In theory mine should have the most significant torque curve change, but I didn’t notice it myself...at first.

Adding intakes definitely helped throttle response and felt stronger from 2k-6500 but didn’t think it lost low end power. Until I put the stock intake box back on. I could immediately feel the change at throttle tip-in and what felt like more power at low RPM. It’s actually not more power but again just the power curve starting lower. This felt good until accelerating past 2k RPM which then felt disappointedly flat without the intakes.:unsure:

I believe all intakes available will have the same effects on the power curve and provide a mild loss of low end gusto. Luckily our Stingers have tons of low end torque so I don’t think losing a few ft-lbs would make any difference in city driving.

However, if you’re seriously concerned and want the least low end loss go with the intake with longest piping. I think SSR may have the longest and possibly least loss of low end power.:thumbup:

Just remember it’s all a trade off with bolt-ons. Less restrictions=Better flow=Higher torque curve=More HP and visa-versa.
 
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My main problem with all the intakes I have seen is two fold: 1. Metal piping. This looks nice, may sound nice to some, but when heated up, you are actually losing power in the real world. You don’t drive with your hood open like a dyno, and increased temperatures cause lower timing, which reduced much more power than letting a car breathe a bit more CFMs of air.

2. The only intakes I have seen that still use plastic, don’t pull fresh air from outside of the engine compartment. The ones that do utilize the outside air, require you to remove the shrouding which directs air from the upper grill to the cooler units. While I believe cooling wouldn’t be affected, I do believe aerodynamics would be. Again, I believe aerodynamics at high speed are more important than a couple extra HP.

So, until an air intake that utilizes non heat-soaking materials and keeps the factory designed parts in place (besides intake parts) I will keep waiting for one.

I live in AZ, so heat is everything out here. :) If anyone knows one that does this, please let me know.
 
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I have the Tork intakes currently installed. They claim a bump in horsepower, but honestly can't say I feel a difference. Love the sound though!
 
Have the K&N installed on mine, they work awesome. Sound is decently loud and nice to the ears, easy install. Can't say I feel any difference in torque, even if it's a loss.
 
Also have K&N on mine. Cant really tell if I lost low end torque, but car definitely sounds nice and intimidating especially when you start hearing the turbo spool up
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Just installed the K&N this morning. Only drove a bit after the install, but so far loving them.
 
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Injen intakes here. Love them. Engine runs cooler and noticeably for power.
 
My main problem with all the intakes I have seen is two fold: 1. Metal piping. This looks nice, may sound nice to some, but when heated up, you are actually losing power in the real world. You don’t drive with your hood open like a dyno, and increased temperatures cause lower timing, which reduced much more power than letting a car breathe a bit more CFMs of air.

2. The only intakes I have seen that still use plastic, don’t pull fresh air from outside of the engine compartment. The ones that do utilize the outside air, require you to remove the shrouding which directs air from the upper grill to the cooler units. While I believe cooling wouldn’t be affected, I do believe aerodynamics would be. Again, I believe aerodynamics at high speed are more important than a couple extra HP.

So, until an air intake that utilizes non heat-soaking materials and keeps the factory designed parts in place (besides intake parts) I will keep waiting for one.

I live in AZ, so heat is everything out here. :) If anyone knows one that does this, please let me know.
I live in SFL where heat is a huge factor too. Which is why I made DIY intakes using plastic piping and thermal heat shielding to make a barrier against the engine/turbo heat.:thumbup:
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The air surrounding the filters on the one side of the barrier is drastically cooler, and filters are within 1” of the OEM air inlet so cool air is still is drawn from the outside too.

It doesn’t look pretty with the shielding but it makes a huge difference preventing heat soak. Shielding blocks at least 90% of the radiating heat and haven’t felt a loss in power even sitting for a while in 95degree summer sun!;)

I had your same concerns and did have mild heat soaking without the shielding. I’m now extremely happy and all together only spent about $110 for everything. IMO this is the best of both worlds.:D

Hope this helps and happy tuning.:thumbup:
 
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Honestly this car has so much low end torque, even if it loses a little it won't change the driving characteristics around town. This isn't a N/A I4 with 100 lb/ft at 2k rpms.
 
Thanks for all your feedback guys, I'm still a bit on the fence but I think I'm going to eventually order one, worst case I just remove it if I don't like the results.

The main reason I started this thread was because my last car had a N/A v6 with 280hp and 252lbs of torque and the low-end suffered ALOT when I installed a short ram intake. It sounded magnificent and pulled harder in high rpm but the throttle response and low-end tq suffered when I installed it.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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