3.3TT Lightest Wheels for GT2 AWD

[Volfy]

For my next set of tires i am planning for dws06 continental. Tirerack lists them as 22lbs tire for 245/40-18 size. That will make it around 42lbs per corner.

That is impressive indeed. I see that:

225/40R18 - 23 lbs
235/40R18 - 23 lbs
245/40R18 - 22 lbs
255/40R18 - 24 lbs

Must be some magic dust they sprinkled over the 245. Who knows? Put it on the scale and take a pic, when you get around to it. I do that with every set of wheel and tire that roll thru my garage. You know what Ronald Reagan said about them Russians:

"Trust but verify."

 

[Snicklefritz]

ok, I have better questions this round. My new tires were put on the bent stock rims and I would like to continue using those tires. That being said, I do not know the relation between size and clearance regarding the rims, tires, wheel well, brakes, rotors, etc.

2018 AWD GT2.

225/40R19​

255/35R19​

​

1. How does tire size relate to the wheel size and do I have to stagger the wheel size? Basically could I put 8.5 on both front and rear with the tires I have and stock set-up? Could I go wider than 8.0/8.5 on both?

you can put wider tires on the same width rims. It just isn't recommended because then you play around with handling which can be a safety issue and the manufacturers of wheels and tires and cars won't be held liable if you go against their recommendations.

you can use the same width rim all four corners. 8.5" at all four corners would work fine.

2. On Ebay I am seeing listings include the offset. Am I correct in this having something to do with wheel clearance reletive to rotors and calipers?

yes clearance. on the stinger any front offset bigger than 40 is really pushing clearance. in the rear we have more room and offsets smaller than 35 risk rubbing on the fender. this all is more true with wider tires of course.

3. Is there variation or a range in offset or do I have to have the same offset as stock 34/46.5? Does the offset need to be staggered or could I simply buy 4 of the same exact rims?

you can buy the same offset at all four corners, in other words four of the exact same wheel. the oem square setup is 18" wheel 8" wide with a 34 offset.

4. Do I need to consider hub bore size and if I do does it need to be what ever stock is or a range? Why is Hub Bore also listed as "CB"?

someone else will have to answer this one. I never bought a wheel without a pro shop selecting the specs for me.

5. What would be considered a light wheel?

21 pounds is a light wheel. I've seen wheels on stingers as light as 18 pounds.

6. Are Yokohama ADVAN Sport A/S+ good tires in your world?

I do not know. but yokos are very widely used so they must be good. I would try them.

7. Are there other specifications I need to look at or does anything come to mind as advice?

THANKS guys.

don't ask for anyone else's advice or opinions on what style of wheels to put on your ride. and don't listen to them when they say what they think about how they look, unless they like them too.

 

[Ohiocruiser]

That is impressive indeed. I see that:

225/40R18 - 23 lbs
235/40R18 - 23 lbs
245/40R18 - 22 lbs
255/40R18 - 24 lbs

Must be some magic dust they sprinkled over the 245. Who knows? Put it on the scale and take a pic, when you get around to it. I do that with every set of wheel and tire that roll thru my garage. You know what Ronald Reagan said about them Russians:

"Trust but verify.

Sure, since i'm Russian myself (not to confuse with Russian citizen), you can trust me, without any pictures

 

[Volfy]

"CB" stands for center bore. Yes, you do have to make sure the aftermarket wheels comes with hubcentric rings, which they typically do. When you order, you need to specify for what vehicle the wheels are for, so they know what size rings to throw in. Even if they don't come with hubcentric rings, you can buy them just about anywhere, Amazon, ebay, etc. The plastic ones TireRack included disintegrated after the track day I did last year. Had to get aluminum ones to replace them.

Highly recommend you stay as close to the stock 34mm offset as you can, with any replacement wheel you buy. This maintains the same scrub radius and avoids introducing handling issues. This is particularly important with the front (steering) wheels. Rear axle isn't as critical. You can always put spacers on a wheel with higher offset, to correct back close to 34mm. For example, my Enkei TFR has a 38mm ET. A 3mm spacer puts offset to within 1mm of stock offset. 5mm also works... 1mm off on the other side. Both close enough.

 

[Volfy]

Sure, since i'm Russian myself (not to confuse with Russian citizen), you can trust me, without any pictures

LOL. English is not my mother tongue either, but I've lived here long enough, you'll have to excuse my Texas twang, my Oklahoma drawl, and my New Yawk tawk.

 

[Redleg94]

To reiterate what others have said, offset and centerbore both matter. Your best bet if you can swing the cost is to get wheels that are custom drilled for both the lug spacing and the centerbore, then you don't have to use centering rings.

If you do but off the rack wheels however, and decide not to use centering rings, there is a good chance that you would get a vibration even with perfectly balanced wheels as they wouldn't be centered on the hubs.

 

[DoctorStiches]

Ok now that i hear 40 is great i need to weigh them haha