Lease then Buyout - Contract Explanation

I had a buyout quote from a dealership after I got the car back home to my state which was $41.5k which is close to adjusted cap cost last month. Now I am in LIMBO with this crap. In late November, I took my buyout quote paperwork to the 2nd dealership. They said lease buyout cannot happen until car is fully registered and not on temp plates. Took the dealership where I leased the car from nearly 15 days after temp tags expired to get the tags/registration to me. Just got the registration and plate today. I went straight to the closest dealership near me today to get the process started for buyout. They come back with new paperwork and buyout is now $44k! WTF!!! This price does NOT include warranty which is another $1500 to be CPO. They said a leased car does not roll over with full warranty for a lease buyout. Jesus H Christ. If it is really is $45.5k now which does not include another round of property taxes and sales taxes in the price for my state. Then the lease buyout no longer makes sense. Since I would have paid property taxes and state sales tax twice for my state as well as the property tax and sales tax for the state I leased the car from. KMF is no help because they are NOT licensed in the state and I have to do whatever the dealership comes up with. WTF am I doing wrong here? What do I need to do to get this taken care of correctly? I have made 2 lease payments so far.
If you haven’t done so - please read through this thread: Lease deal voids manufacturer warranty?

Regarding taxes - I’d dig deeper into it. While there are states that will tax you twice (Texas - hello balloon program), afaik the tax follows your place of residence not place where you bought it.
 
Wow that is amazing.
I'm in WA and there is not a single dealer who will go below 2500 off MSRP.
When I ask for 7% off, they all say, they bought higher than that. Don't believe most of them as they were playing games to begin with.

That is a killer deal for sure. Maybe I need to go to CA, buy and drive up.
Dealing with something similar although I've only worked with my local dealer so far. They think I'm crazy asking for 10% off MSRP. I just emailed them back today with regional TrueCar info showing the average market price for a new 2021 AWD GT2 is 8.5% off MSRP so we'll see if that gets them to move at all.
 
Dealing with something similar although I've only worked with my local dealer so far. They think I'm crazy asking for 10% off MSRP. I just emailed them back today with regional TrueCar info showing the average market price for a new 2021 AWD GT2 is 8.5% off MSRP so we'll see if that gets them to move at all.
They are most likely hiding behind invoice, dealer cost and hold back. You will need to get them to realize you are aware of these values to begin to take advantage in the negotiation. 10% off of MSRP is typically where you will end up. Simply saying I want 10% is a death sentence for a deal.
 
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You bought out of state, and your state won't allow you to deal directly with KMF; it looks like you're nailed for two states' taxations, plus in your state a second sales and property tax to complete the buyout. If this is the case, I don't see any way out of it. :( Finish the lease, pay the lease rent and then decide what to do with the car.
Let’s throw the taxes aside here. The biggest issue is my adjusted cap cost is $41.5k. Is that not already a binding contract from the lease agreement in the first place? The dealership still wanted $3.5k above my adjusted cap cost in the lease buyout not including the $1500.00 to transfer the warranty into my name to continue the 10 years/100,000 mile coverage. Yes, I know that someone just posted a picture to dispute that info about the warranty coverage continuation. Just how do I get a dealership to honor the lease agreement contract without adding thousands of extra dollars to it. I already want to be an owner but I am not going to pay close to MSRP on a lease buy out after jumping through hoops the first time to get the cost of the car listed 10% off MSRP plus the lease cash incentive.
 
They are most likely hiding behind invoice, dealer cost and hold back. You will need to get them to realize you are aware of these values to begin to take advantage in the negotiation. 10% off of MSRP is typically where you will end up. Simply saying I want 10% is a death sentence for a deal.
This is what they gave me for a '21 GT2 AWD in Ceramic Silver:
MSRP - $54,120
Selling Price - $53,550
Gov Fee - $147.47
Doc fee - $388.53
Rebate - $7300

They did mention the invoice cost a couple of times. So basically like 1% off MSRP...

I'm in the Pittsburgh area and there is really limited inventory. Hard to find what I'm looking for. I reached out to a few dealers in Cleveland and Columbus now. Would have to pay to have PA state inspection/emissions done but seems like a small price to pay if I can get a good deal.

If you could elaborate on how I negotiate closer to 10% off I'm all ears. The only brand new vehicle I've ever purchased was our Telluride, which straight up does not sell for under MSRP, so I paid MSRP with that purchase. I did send the dealer my regional TrueCar results showing the market average price for the car is $49,500, or about 8.5% off MSRP.

I don't know if the dealer trade is preventing them from playing ball (they don't have it in stock, they said they could get it from another dealer), or if it's because they never sell Stingers, or a combination of both. They did follow up in an email and say they could do $51,441 which is at least 5%. Maybe I can just keep chipping away. If I'm missing something here I'm all ears, as I am certainly ignorant to the car buying process, but feel like I have a pretty solid grasp on this lease buyout process after reading through the thread and watching the youtube video.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...

From that article (expand, it's a good read):

“Let’s work the numbers, shall we?” I said to the salesperson. Since I was sitting in a Kia dealership in South Florida, I fully expected the first draft to be full of fuckery, and to be demonstrated on a foursquare form.

I was not disappointed.

When he returned with a foursquare in hand, I immediately interrupted. “Sir, don’t bother with that form. This isn’t 1996. We aren’t focused on the payment. Let’s talk real numbers, please.”

He reacted like an NPC in an Atari cartridge game — he froze when his code was interrupted. “Uh, okay. Sure.”

Our salesman turned over the piece of paper and began writing. “We will give you $1,000 on your trade, and then we will require another $1,000 down. That will make your lease payment $269 a month, plus tax.”

Oh, come on, man.

“Okay,” I began. “We aren’t even close. What’s the sale price that you’re basing the lease on?”

“$20,020.”

“That’s MSRP, sir. Nobody pays MSRP for a Kia. Also, you’ve failed to include the $3,150 of available rebates. Finally, I’m going to need to know what the money factor on this lease is.”

Total deer in headlights moment. “Ummm. Okay. Umm.”

Luckily, at that moment, a bright young man appeared from behind the cubicle wall.

“Sir, I overheard some of your questions. I’m the sales manager here, and I wanted to provide you with some more information.” He handed me a sheet of paper. “These are the lease terms. Here is the residual value, and here is the money factor.”

Finally! Somebody with actual information. “Thank you, sir.”

The sheet showed the variable money factor based on credit score. “Can you show me the beacon you pulled?”

As if by magic, he pulled out another sheet of paper, showing a beacon score of 700, which was far better than what I had seen on my friend’s Credit Karma report. This meant that she qualified for a money factor of .0017, or roughly 4.29% APR. Not the best, but as a first time buyer, I was willing to accept it.

“I’m willing to write a lease based on invoice price for you, sir.” Great, now we were getting somewhere. But this was a Kia store, so I knew that there was money hiding somewhere.

“What’s your dealer fee?” I asked.

“$999,” he shot back confidently.

Fuuuuuuck me. Welcome to South Florida.

“No, we aren’t paying that,” I replied, knowing full well what was coming next, which was…

“Sir, we have to charge that to every customer.”

“No,” I answered. “You have to list a $999 dealer fee on the invoice, because that’s what your owner requires, and also you’re afraid that you’ll get sued for discrimination if you charge it to other people but not to us. I get it. What I’m saying is, you can take that $999 out of the deal somewhere else. Like your holdback, for example.”

His smile momentarily flickered. “Holdback on this car is $483. I can take that out of the deal, too, if you like.”

“Amazing. Now just go find $500 somewhere, and we’ll be in business.”

He came back with what I thought was a pretty good deal. Invoice minus $500, minus holdback and all available rebates, plus acquisition fee and TTL. The dealer fee was still listed, but he turned his screen around to show me where he had discounted the price by enough to cover it. $259 a month including tax, no money down, sign-and-drive for 36 months and 12k miles.

So that $2000 down/$269 a month PLUS tax became, with some knowledge of how the game works, zero down/$259 INCLUDES tax.
 
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Hmm, good info for sure. I was just at the dealer to test drive a GT1 and make sure I really wanted a Stinger before hunting for a GT2, but of course they tried to suck me into the sales process and I wasn't prepared with information like holdback and what not.
 
Let’s throw the taxes aside here. The biggest issue is my adjusted cap cost is $41.5k. Is that not already a binding contract from the lease agreement in the first place? The dealership still wanted $3.5k above my adjusted cap cost in the lease buyout not including the $1500.00 to transfer the warranty into my name to continue the 10 years/100,000 mile coverage. Yes, I know that someone just posted a picture to dispute that info about the warranty coverage continuation. Just how do I get a dealership to honor the lease agreement contract without adding thousands of extra dollars to it. I already want to be an owner but I am not going to pay close to MSRP on a lease buy out after jumping through hoops the first time to get the cost of the car listed 10% off MSRP plus the lease cash incentive.
This is the only case on the forum that I recall, where it appears that a dealer that will process the buyout is adding thousands to the adjusted capitalized cost. This must be a scammy/scummy dealer! Can you try elsewhere?
 
Still having a hell of a time getting a dealer to offer me anything I'd consider a good deal compared to what I've seen posted here. Best offer so far is the dealer closest to my house at about $2700 (or about 5%) off a '21 GT2 AWD and they don't have stock so they'd have to order new.

Another dealer said they can't even come close to doing 5% off.

Dealer in Virginia that has 30+ in inventory was willing to do about 10% off but I can't do the lease buyout as they won't lease to someone in PA (too far away).
 
Still having a hell of a time getting a dealer to offer me anything I'd consider a good deal compared to what I've seen posted here. Best offer so far is the dealer closest to my house at about $2700 (or about 5%) off a '21 GT2 AWD and they don't have stock so they'd have to order new.

Another dealer said they can't even come close to doing 5% off.

Dealer in Virginia that has 30+ in inventory was willing to do about 10% off but I can't do the lease buyout as they won't lease to someone in PA (too far away).
It’s a waiting game. 2021 are too new. Best bet. Try for 2020 or wait till late fall of 2021
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Still having a hell of a time getting a dealer to offer me anything I'd consider a good deal compared to what I've seen posted here. Best offer so far is the dealer closest to my house at about $2700 (or about 5%) off a '21 GT2 AWD and they don't have stock so they'd have to order new.

Another dealer said they can't even come close to doing 5% off.

Dealer in Virginia that has 30+ in inventory was willing to do about 10% off but I can't do the lease buyout as they won't lease to someone in PA (too far away).

Century 3 Kia has a GT1 in stock:

"Starting" dealer discount seems to be reasonable if you aren't completely sold on a GT2. Otherwise, you mentioned looking at Columbus, these guys at Crown Kia are pretty reasonable when it comes to dealing. They have some GT2s on the lot.


Peyton Seay would be a good contact there to work with. I hit about 8% on my GT1 there which was reasonable and also likely due to my trade getting worked out.
 
Appreciate the replies. I'm changing jobs coming off a fleet vehicle and need a car within the next 2 months, and no 2020 around (bad timing on my part I suppose). Good points though. May just have to bite the bullet and order from my local dealer and assume there will be similar lease cash offers when the car delivers.

I'm pretty set on the GT2 at this point. Obviously not required for parking but man I love the 360 surround camera in our Telluride. 5% off MSRP isn't a terrible deal at the end of the day, especially when I'm being so particular.

I will check out Crown Kia. Somehow missed them in my inventory search.

One other question... assuming I ordered new through the dealer, there will probably be a similar lease cash offer when the 1/4/21 offer expires, correct? It just may be a slightly different amount? Since these have been going on for awhile now.
 
Appreciate the replies. I'm changing jobs coming off a fleet vehicle and need a car within the next 2 months, and no 2020 around (bad timing on my part I suppose). Good points though. May just have to bite the bullet and order from my local dealer and assume there will be similar lease cash offers when the car delivers.

I'm pretty set on the GT2 at this point. Obviously not required for parking but man I love the 360 surround camera in our Telluride. 5% off MSRP isn't a terrible deal at the end of the day, especially when I'm being so particular.

I will check out Crown Kia. Somehow missed them in my inventory search.

One other question... assuming I ordered new through the dealer, there will probably be a similar lease cash offer when the 1/4/21 offer expires, correct? It just may be a slightly different amount? Since these have been going on for awhile now.

It is always a gamble. I think someone has a historical review of the incentives in here somewhere. I am not sure what Jan. 2020 had for comparison.
 
Hey everyone, newbie here. I'm wondering what the exact warranty is after a lease buyout. Is only the drivetrain warranty reduced? Is there a way to extend it? I tried searching for my question but there was too much junk in the results. I'd appreciate any answers or links to other threads!
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I'm wondering what the exact warranty is after a lease buyout.
And there's the rub. I don't think anyone truly has an answer to this. There's lots of speculation, but until and unless (a) someone does have a warranty claim that would fall ONLY in the "first owner" category and not for second owners, and (b) can show that Kia honored it, it's all pure speculation and wishful thinking.
 
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And there's the rub. I don't think anyone truly has an answer to this. There's lots of speculation, but until and unless (a) someone does have a warranty claim that would fall ONLY in the "first owner" category and not for second owners, and (b) can show that Kia honored it, it's all pure speculation and wishful thinking.
That is a good lease question in general. Every lease can be bought out at the end of the term. There should be some language about the warranty as it is not technically changing owners.... hmmmm
 
That is a good lease question in general. Every lease can be bought out at the end of the term. There should be some language about the warranty as it is not technically changing owners.... hmmmm
Let’s put this “issue” to rest - straight from the horse’s mouth - page 8 of Kia’s 2020 Warranty and Consumer Information Manual.
 

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Let’s put this “issue” to rest - straight from the horse’s mouth - page 8 of Kia’s 202 Warranty and Consumer Information Manual.
What model year car did that booklet come from? You have a typo there, left off the final digit of the model year. 2020, or 2021?

The reason I ask is, I have plenty of experience with manufacturers changing their service and warranty stories model year to model year--even on the exact same car that had zero physical or mechanical changes.

And in fact, I would highly recommend that anyone looking to do the lease buyout thing get a look at the car's owner's manual and warranty statements for this very reason. Make no assumptions that YOUR specific model year (or model, if it's another Kia) is covered the exact same way that another year's model was.
 
What model year car did that booklet come from? You have a typo there, left off the final digit of the model year. 2020, or 2021?

The reason I ask is, I have plenty of experience with manufacturers changing their service and warranty stories model year to model year--even on the exact same car that had zero physical or mechanical changes.

And in fact, I would highly recommend that anyone looking to do the lease buyout thing get a look at the car's owner's manual and warranty statements for this very reason. Make no assumptions that YOUR specific model year (or model, if it's another Kia) is covered the exact same way that another year's model was.
Fixed typo - 2020.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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