Lease then Buyout - Contract Explanation

Guys like requested few posts above I spoke to the dealer to get me this deal below. After all the math he's done monthly payment is coming around $650(incl tax) with 8% taxes and $1500 down payment for 36 month/10,000 miles. Isn't that a lot for a lease price of $40,650(after all the discounts and lease cash)? I am worried if this is a trap and there are any hidden charges which will add up to the price when I decide to buy the car. May be the interest rate is high?

What questions should I ask to know this?

Sticker Price :$52800
Dealer discount: $4800
Lease Cash: $8700
Dealer handling and Acquisition fee:$1350
Down Payment/Trade-in: $1500
Tax Rate:8%
 
Guys like requested few posts above I spoke to the dealer to get me this deal below. After all the math he's done monthly payment is coming around $650(incl tax) with 8% taxes and $1500 down payment for 36 month/10,000 miles. Isn't that a lot for a lease price of $40,650(after all the discounts and lease cash)? I am worried if this is a trap and there are any hidden charges which will add up to the price when I decide to buy the car. May be the interest rate is high?

What questions should I ask to know this?

Sticker Price :$52800
Dealer discount: $4800
Lease Cash: $8700
Dealer handling and Acquisition fee:$1350
Down Payment/Trade-in: $1500
Tax Rate:8%
It all looks too high to me. I had 15K miles, paint "nick insurance" and lease insurance (admittedly a small add on). My monthly was $627. My adjusted capitalized cost was c. the same as yours.
 
Looks about right, if your taxes are paid up front. Not sure how your state handles the taxes but you can use the lease calculator to get a better idea. Now if you plan on buying it out and your total price is $40,650, you are getting a good deal. The bottom line price is what you car about, the lease payments mean nothing if you are going to buy it out as that affects the monthly payment. Hope that helps.

Leasehackr Calculator
 
______________________________
Ok, that is good to know. Tax is levied on the monthly lease payment. I will buy the car after I lease. I don't want to keep paying the lease. SO should I be making sure the lease price is $40,650 in the documents? Going by the calculator I am guessing the money factor is too high which is the reason the payments are high. I hope this does not affect the payoff price.
 
Last edited:
Ok, that is good to know. Tax is levied on the monthly lease payment. I will buy the car after I lease. I don't want to keep paying the lease. SO should I be making sure the lease price is $40,650 in the documents? Going by the calculator I am guessing the money factor is too high which is the reason the payments are high. I hope this does not affect the payoff price.
Money factor is irrelevant when it comes to a lease buyout. You are looking for the Adjusted Capitalized cost or Net Cost on the lease paperwork. That amount + taxes on the residual value of your vehicle, since you are in a state that does monthly tax on lease, will be the amount you will need to finance with your credit union/bank.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Ok, that is good to know. Tax is levied on the monthly lease payment. I will buy the car after I lease. I don't want to keep paying the lease. SO should I be making sure the lease price is $40,650 in the documents? Going by the calculator I am guessing the money factor is too high which is the reason the payments are high. I hope this does not affect the payoff price.

Do you mean you will pay the lease out to 36 months and then buy it out? If so, then the payments are close to correct and the MF while high is what you will end up with for the term of the lease. If however, you are paying the 1st payment (like most of us are doing) or first few the buying out, then the interest rate you get from your bank/CU or whoever is financing the buyout is the only thing to work the best deal on. Hope that I explained it correctly.
 
@Waynerm002, No, I am planning to buy immediately after the first payment. Got you. I have asked the sales person to send me

1.) Adjusted Cap Cost
2.) Residual Value after 36 months
3.) Money factor

My sales just responded with these numbers

Money Factor: .00234
Adjusted Cap Cost: $41,652
Residual After 36 months @ 10k miles per year: 25,896.50

He said the lease price is: $40,300

I asked him for a break down of the Adjusted cap cost and this was his response
Sale price: 48,750
+699 Dealer Fee
+650 Acc Fee
-8700 Rebate
-1000 Trade Allowance
+595.77 Cap Reduction Tax
+7.20 Title fee
+650 First Payment--Why is he adding first payment to Adjusted Cap Cost is that even correct?

= $41,652.41

As far I understand this process after going through all the threads Adjusted Cap Cost should be equal to the lease price(Sticker price - Discounts - lease cash - Trade-in). But here in this case it is almost $1300 more. Please help me understand this.
 
Last edited:
You know, buying was a necessary evil; finance or lease? I went in that morning with every intention of financing. Then the Kia incentive rebate made us choose leasing; who would take $950 off for financing over $5,900 off for leasing? I figured that at the end of 36 months I'd then be free to either buy the car or trade it in for a lease on a brand new one (should Kia "surprise" me with innovations that make me want to drive the MY21). I looked over the lease contract and then put it away. Later, after joining this forum and reading through this thread, I doubted the wisdom of sticking the lease out; and I did the buyout. I'm very glad I did.

It appears that your numbers are close enough to mine to be able to say that if you buyout the lease you'll save well over $4K (minus the interest you pay if you cannot pay cash to buyout). Worrying over whether or not the dealership is slipping in some extra cash for themselves by being less than transparent isn't going to get you anywhere: unless you are some less common type that understands the formulas and does the math, etc. I am not. But this is definitely a case of YMMV. You have numbers quoted to you. Keep them up front and the dealership will honor them and likely not try to get away with anything else.
 
The first payment is always required on a lease. You are getting a pretty good deal on the car. The MF is high but if your credit is good it might come down but again, the bottom line price is pretty darn good. Make the deal and get the car.
 
@Waynerm002, Thank you. Will try to work with the dealer.
 
______________________________
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I was at the dealer yesterday getting numbers he said that the lease cash does not take money off the buyout. It only subtracts to give a better lease number? Is this true can anyone post their invoice or a pic of it? Thanks
 
I was at the dealer yesterday getting numbers he said that the lease cash does not take money off the buyout. It only subtracts to give a better lease number? Is this true can anyone post their invoice or a pic of it? Thanks

They dont have a clue what they are talking about. When you say buyout, they are thinking you complete the lease term then buy out the remaining residual value. Look for my previous posts on here, I posted all my numbers.
 
So what number is that when I ask if it's not the residual value? How do I figure that number out or is it listed on the sheet? Thanks
 
So what number is that when I ask if it's not the residual value? How do I figure that number out or is it listed on the sheet? Thanks
I would just call Kia financial and ask for the buyout.
 
If the lease cash does not take off the buyout amount then we are gaining nothing here can someone post a pic of their paperwork showing exactly how the buyout after first payment was minus the lease cash thanks I
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
They buyout amount is not broken down when you ask for it from kmf. But on my it was slightly lower than the residual value posted on my contract and I assume the 300 buyout fee was already factored in to that.
 
______________________________
If the lease cash does not take off the buyout amount then we are gaining nothing here can someone post a pic of their paperwork showing exactly how the buyout after first payment was minus the lease cash thanks I

The lease cash is taken out as part of your otd price. Let's say the negotiating sale price is 48k and you tell them you are leasing to take the lease cash rebate and let's say that is 7000, then they will use that as part of your down payment + first month payment. When I leased mine I had 7900 lease cash + 1k rebate. I also had 16500 worth of trade. All of those was reduced from the negotiated 41800k otd. My residual was just shy off 27k, but my actual buyout amount was just a couple hundred above 26k. Look around page 11-13 of this thread.

Bottom line is this:
1. If you lease, complete your lease term, then buy the car at the residual, you saved nothing and paid more than the msrp.
2. If you lease, and buy out your lease contract before it matures, you save $$ from the rebate.
3. The earlier you buyout your contract, the more $ you save from the rebate.
 
Last edited:
I would just call Kia financial and ask for the buyout.
You don't even have to do that: just go to your kmfusa.com account, hover over Payments, then click "Get a Buyout Quote".
I was at the dealer yesterday getting numbers he said that the lease cash does not take money off the buyout. It only subtracts to give a better lease number? Is this true can anyone post their invoice or a pic of it? Thanks
My wife has been questioning this very thing, this very week. :p And I am a bit skeptical myself. Here's why: Under "federal consumer leasing act disclosures", we see item 2. "amount due at lease signing or delivery"; for us, 7,112.99. When we asked, "what's that?", the dealership financer (fiddler, sleight of hand dealer, heh!:p), sort of waved his hand with a grin and said something to the effect of, "It's to cover a whole bunch of added on costs that dealers incur", etc. Hah! That's where the "formulae" kick in. I wasn't (and am not) interested. The only thing is the final price and whether or not you are willing to pay it.

That item is "paid for" by Kia, under item 6. A. "capitalized cost reduction" and 6. B. 2. "rebates and noncash credits"; for us it was 5,900. So we had to come up with 1,212.99 on our first payment to get out the door with delivery. We made two monthly payments, making our total toward the "gross capitalized cost" of 45,407.26, 1,881.06 (we had to subtract the 585.97 "initial license, title and registration fees and sales/use tax"). So when I checked out the Kia buyout quote it was 40,954.79; which, minus sales tax, puts the "sale price" at 37,742.41 on the title.

Did the Kia rebate actually reduce the final price on the car? Hmm. It seems to have mostly gone toward the "amount due at lease signing or delivery". Why this figure was 7,112.99 remains the mystery. I believe it is all just a sleight of hand numbers game: what the dealer took was what Kia gave, and then some, because that 7,112.99 is the rebate of 5,900, plus the first month's payment, plus the 585.97 "initial license, title and registration fees and sales/use tax". Then, after that, we started paying for the rest of the "gross capitalized cost", which went from 42,455 "agreed upon value of the vehicle", up to 45,407.26, from "any items you pay over the lease term (such as service contracts, insurance, and any outstanding prior credit or lease balance)", which latter part did not apply to us, since we had none of that hanging over us. The "gross capitalized cost" was reduced by the 5,900; then the "residual value"; and then added back in "rent charge" of 5,774.86 (there goes that Kia rebate a second time!, almost to the dollar). This resulted in a "total base monthly payments" of 21,125.52.

By buying out the lease we avoided the rent charge, and the "monthly use tax" (1,447.20). I think. Anyway, the buyout figure by Kia seemed sufficiently low, including sales tax, to make me want to do it. It appeared that we had, in three payments, reduced the gross capitalized cost by 4,452.47. And we were not going to see that rent charge spread out over 33 more months, nor the monthly sales/use tax.

So, "you" tell me: did the Kia rebate apply to anything? I am not really seeing it: what Kia giveth, Jerry Seiner taketh away (for reasons unseen, but not unknown; it all boils down to maximizing profits).
 
After all is said and done, how much money did it take to own the car? That's what I base it on. There is definitely some trickery going on with the numbers so dont expect to get all of the rebates because if this. Compare it to what it would have cost if you financed it instead if leasing it. For me financing it would have given me 2-3k in rebates. Probably end up owning the car for 47k-48k OTD on my GT2. Because I did the lease cash and bought out my lease less than a month after paying the first months rent, mine came out around low 43k to own the car. Almost 9k off the msrp, and 4-5k more savings compared to financing. So does the rebate got applied, certainly yes. Did I get all of it, absolutely not, but savings is savings and I got the car I wanted for much less than what I expected to get it for. The gt2 was out of my budget range and I didnt think I could afford it. I was ready to settle on the premium 2.0T but this lease cash was my savior.
 
Wow, this thing is looking difficult to process. Let me try. The lease cash is taken out after any dealer discount, some don't break it down and you think the KIA rebate is all you can get but the dealer can discount the car independent of the lease cash. In this instance the dealer makes a higher profit if they don't discount the car and use only the manufacturer rebate.

The lease cash is to help soften the price of the lease however, KIA's MF (money factor) is high so you end up paying it back over the term of the lease, if you pay the lease to term. If you then choose the buyout the lease and add financing to that, the amount you end up paying can end up being more than if you did a straight finance from the beginning (especially if you didn't negotiate a great deal).

If you are doing the lease buyout, the monthly payment is not a concern, the residual is not a concern. The final price is what you want to know (minus a payment or 2, depending on ow long the buyout process takes), as that is what you are going to take to your bank/financing company to get a loan on after the deal is done. Don't get caught up in the other numbers, pay attention to them but focus on the total price. Things to know, what is the discount off MSRP, how much is the lease cash (which further reduces the price). Keep in mind that some states will tax the lease cash, so it isn't entirely free and will increase the final price. The tax man always gets his cut.

I know for some the math don't seem to add up but look at it like this:

Price (MSRP) - Dealer Discount - lease cash + fees + taxes = final price

Hope this helps.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Back
Top