3.3TT JUN BL EVC Exhaust plug and play adaptation for factory valve control plugs?

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Hey guys

I just installed the 2022 JUN BL EVC exhaust (from K8 Stinger store) on my '22 GT Elite 3.3TT. This is the electronically actuated valve kit which uses a radio transmitter installed in the truck with the battery and a remote to open/close the valve (buttons labelled 'on' and 'off'.... hm).

I thought I'd try plugging the OEM plugs on the exhaust in the hopes they'd work, but I think the larger valves likely require significantly higher voltage as they would not open. The JUN BL system makes a pretty good thunk when you open and close it.

I plan on testing the OEM plug voltage to see what it outputs when switched to sport mode, and then test the voltage from the JUN BL unit. My question is, if I have a target voltage, how do I go about stepping up the line voltage for the factory signal to act more as a true plug and play solution? I'm hoping to do this to get rid of the remote system as I am somewhat concerned about parasitic battery drain from the transmitter. I want to avoid having to install an on/off switch, as it would only power the transmitter due to the single-plug nature of the transmitter system design, and I'd still have to use a remote. PITA.

Pretty happy with the exhaust and the valve system as a whole! I do wish it was truly plug-and-play though.
 
I had the Jun BL EVC on my '19 and was hoping to get the newer version on my '22. And then I saw the remote system. YUCK! Can't really offer any advice but I wish you luck! Keep us updated!
 
I had the Jun BL EVC on my '19 and was hoping to get the newer version on my '22. And then I saw the remote system. YUCK! Can't really offer any advice but I wish you luck! Keep us updated!
So did the EVC on the '19 use the vacuum line and functioned properly with the different drive modes??

I think it's nice in a way to have the remote so that, if you so choose, you can show off your new sound without jacking up fuel consumption. But when it doesn't open as you go to sport without the remote input, it's pretty annoying...

MAYBE... just maybe... if you were to tie the original line (with boosted voltage or amperage and diode to stop backfeed) into the JUN BL remote system (downstream of the transmitter with diodes for preventing backfeed) and essentially have two potential signals sources to the aftermarket actuators, you could have the best of both worlds. Although you could end up in sport mode while having closed exhaust valves if you switch to sport while already having valves open.
 
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Hey guys

I just installed the 2022 JUN BL EVC exhaust (from K8 Stinger store) on my '22 GT Elite 3.3TT. This is the electronically actuated valve kit which uses a radio transmitter installed in the truck with the battery and a remote to open/close the valve (buttons labelled 'on' and 'off'.... hm).

I thought I'd try plugging the OEM plugs on the exhaust in the hopes they'd work, but I think the larger valves likely require significantly higher voltage as they would not open. The JUN BL system makes a pretty good thunk when you open and close it.

I plan on testing the OEM plug voltage to see what it outputs when switched to sport mode, and then test the voltage from the JUN BL unit. My question is, if I have a target voltage, how do I go about stepping up the line voltage for the factory signal to act more as a true plug and play solution? I'm hoping to do this to get rid of the remote system as I am somewhat concerned about parasitic battery drain from the transmitter. I want to avoid having to install an on/off switch, as it would only power the transmitter due to the single-plug nature of the transmitter system design, and I'd still have to use a remote. PITA.

Pretty happy with the exhaust and the valve system as a whole! I do wish it was truly plug-and-play though.
I don’t have an answer for your main question but I have the Kunstwerk evc catback with the same type of module/remote system. (They get them all from the same place it seems) and I don’t have any issues with battery drain. I’ve let the car sit for a week during quarantine last year and it started right up.
 
I don’t have an answer for your main question but I have the Kunstwerk evc catback with the same type of module/remote system. (They get them all from the same place it seems) and I don’t have any issues with battery drain. I’ve let the car sit for a week during quarantine last year and it started right up.
That's great to hear, thanks!

I actually had to use the Kunstwerk EVC install video to help figure out the install as I couldn't find one from JUN BL for the EVC system - they only had vacuum system install guides that I could find.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
That's great to hear, thanks!

I actually had to use the Kunstwerk EVC install video to help figure out the install as I couldn't find one from JUN BL for the EVC system - they only had vacuum system install guides that I could find.
Yep that video was helpful for me too, I ran all the wires and had a shop install the catback and hook the wires up through the trunk well grommet hole. Turned out great and I have the module sitting in the truck. I used a binocular case and Velcro straps to keep it from flying everywhere in the trunk :laugh:4B49EAB8-1F97-4142-A5F0-511B36906C29.webp
 
So did the EVC on the '19 use the vacuum line and functioned properly with the different drive modes??
The EVC for the 18-21 had a vacuum line and was attached to a small toggle switch that you drilled through the panel that covers the OBD2 port. It was about the diameter of a dime, and hardly noticeable. You could open and close the valves, independent of drive mode. WANT TO SOUND LIKE A BOSS IN ECO MODE? NO PROBLEM! The different modes did change the sound a little too, which was fun.

Honestly I liked it that way. I ended up calling the closed valves "wife mode" because the only times I would drive with them closed was when she was in the car. Also, don't know how true this is anymore, but a complaint with the 18-21 EVC was that the valves had a tendency to seize if left open all the time when the vehicle was off, so I would just make sure to close them every time I got out of the car.
 
Yep that video was helpful for me too, I ran all the wires and had a shop install the catback and hook the wires up through the trunk well grommet hole. Turned out great and I have the module sitting in the truck. I used a binocular case and Velcro straps to keep it from flying everywhere in the trunk :laugh:View attachment 63224
How did you lead the wires from grommet to the valve components? Or I guess no need if you leave no slack huh?
Thinking it was going to be really hot underneath, I decided to route the wires behind the heat shields, plus some 3M tape...
 
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