Jun bl downpipes sound under load

View attachment 12444 So I just got my downpipes with stock mufflers still on installed. It sounds great so far pretty much exactly what I wanted. One issue I’ve noticed at high load around 2200-2400 I get a resonance sound/almost metal vibration sound. Anyone else have this? No rattles or sounds any other time. Everything fit perfect and is solid as a rock.
Hi Adamdan,
Wanted to see if you had any update to your downpipe drone note? One thing to think about is the exhaust is hard mounted, if your still having the issue try and soft mount the flanges or soft-mount the cross bar plate. SSR AWD has a extenstion bar that tends to do that and I have heard less from those folks about drone sounds.
Phil
 
Hi Adamdan,
Wanted to see if you had any update to your downpipe drone note? One thing to think about is the exhaust is hard mounted, if your still having the issue try and soft mount the flanges or soft-mount the cross bar plate. SSR AWD has a extenstion bar that tends to do that and I have heard less from those folks about drone sounds.
Phil
It was rasp, once I installed jun bl evc that solved the issue.
 
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View attachment 12444 So I just got my downpipes with stock mufflers still on installed. It sounds great so far pretty much exactly what I wanted. One issue I’ve noticed at high load around 2200-2400 I get a resonance sound/almost metal vibration sound. Anyone else have this? No rattles or sounds any other time. Everything fit perfect and is solid as a rock.
Also do check out Jun B.L. Website they have a video that may help you correlate the sound you hear.
blog<dot>naver<dot>com/junblpro/221245713577 (Just remove the <dot> and make . to make the URL work).
 
I have something similar to what you described with the ssr downpipe aswell.
 
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I have something similar to what you described with the ssr downpipe aswell.
Do you have oem cat back? When my car first started doing this I did a bunch of searching online. This seams to be common with some cars when deleting cats and running oem catback. When I did the cat back the sound stopped.
 
Yea with oem catback. I should be getting an aftermarket catback soon. Will see if the sound goes aswell.
 
Yea with oem catback. I should be getting an aftermarket catback soon. Will see if the sound goes aswell.
I think it depends on what catback and how many resonators it has. I talked to guys that did the borla catback with mid pipes and it made it worst.
 
Hi @Adamdan ! your videos are now gone ... I found your this thread as I am looking to purchase the Junb l DP and wanted to hear the sound it has with the OEM exhaust.
Do you still have that set up ? if so, how do you like it ?
 
I had difficulty in finding these videos but I have found others on Youtube, but to try and help you out overall, there are two mid-pipe options and one HFC down-pipe option, so focused on mid-pipe they are Jun BL and SSR. One: JB is the one to use if you want 100% factory fit, (comes in two flavors RWD & AWD, same pipes but bolt flanges are in two different locations) JB pipes are 60mm SS vs 63.5mm SS (12% more area). The JB pipes also don't hang down under the car, the SSR do by about 1/2 in. SSR require less than ideal adapter hardware for AWD to connect the further back flanges to the AWD mounts, ((BUT.. the SSR will produce more HP and have less drone with the US factory exhaust system than the JB, btw I will opted for SSR and have my local guys TIG SS mount flanges to my pipes)), the JB have a drone around 2K-2.4K (rasp) but it is small. IMHO don't change past the mid-pipe back (factory US exhaust system) UNLESS you're after a louder sound note, you will only gain about 10-15HP more unless your pushing high HP numbers in that case I suggest you look at Jun BL EVC (in car control dual flow option) most of the gain on factory setup is with the mid-pipe, Last option is the "HFC Downpipe + Mid Pipe Combo Kit" but due to the thin SS collector major gain in cabin noise (IMHO only for non family car ;) ). BTW do change out the gasket seal when you replace pipes, best practice ;) part info and other stuff in link below.

Check out a lot of details on the thread: 3.3TT - Kia Stinger 3.3TT SSR Downpipes +30WHP / +26WTQ NO TUNE!!!!! Dyno Runs and Testing
 
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Thanks @pgeneste , this was great to read !
I am in Canada and can get the JB downpipe sent to me for a little bit cheaper than the SSR so pricing isn't the issue however fitment would be - I was going to do this myself but I didn't know the SSR had some issue fitment.
Let's say I would get a shop to install if for fairly nothing, I should just go with the SSR dp then ? a little bit bigger diameter would mean more flow therefore better performance and sound ?
which is what I am looking for - on the exhaust side of things, I have read about are either WAY too loud (we are expecting so cant have a race exhaust haha) or they have massive drone (could be too early to find the best exhaust for the Stinger)
should I worry about the gasket since my car only has 800km ? Should I wait to put more mileage on it before looking at this performance mods?
 
I had difficulty in finding these videos but I have found others on Youtube, but to try and help you out overall, there are two mid-pipe options and one HFC down-pipe option, so focused on mid-pipe they are Jun BL and SSR. One: JB is the one to use if you want 100% factory fit, (comes in two flavors RWD & AWD, same pipes but bolt flanges are in two different locations) JB pipes are 60mm SS vs 63.5mm SS (12% more area). The JB pipes also don't hang down under the car, the SSR do by about 1/2 in. SSR require less than ideal adapter hardware for AWD to connect the further back flanges to the AWD mounts, ((BUT.. the SSR will produce more HP and have less drone with the US factory exhaust system than the JB, btw I will opted for SSR and have my local guys TIG SS mount flanges to my pipes)), the JB have a drone around 2K-2.4K (rasp) but it is small. IMHO don't change past the mid-pipe back (factory US exhaust system) UNLESS you're after a louder sound note, you will only gain about 10-15HP more unless your pushing high HP numbers in that case I suggest you look at Jun BL EVC (in car control dual flow option) most of the gain on factory setup is with the mid-pipe, Last option is the "HFC Downpipe + Mid Pipe Combo Kit" but due to the thin SS collector major gain in cabin noise (IMHO only for non family car ;) ). BTW do change out the gasket seal when you replace pipes, best practice ;) part info and other stuff in link below.

Check out a lot of details on the thread: 3.3TT - Kia Stinger 3.3TT SSR Downpipes +30WHP / +26WTQ NO TUNE!!!!! Dyno Runs and Testing


I don’t know how the ssr would make any More power the the jun bl all the power is coming from deleting the cats. I ended up getting the jun bl evc with my jun downpipes and that took care of the small rasp I was getting. I also have talked to people that got the rasp from the ssr pipes. I personally like the jun pipes better the fitment was perfect on my awd.
 
@Adamdan - bigger diameter would mean more flow therefore more in performance ? not sure :thumbdown:

do you have any clip with the new exhaust ? Could you share where you sourced it from and $ ?
 
Thanks @pgeneste , this was great to read !
I am in Canada and can get the JB downpipe sent to me for a little bit cheaper than the SSR so pricing isn't the issue however fitment would be - I was going to do this myself but I didn't know the SSR had some issue fitment.
Let's say I would get a shop to install if for fairly nothing, I should just go with the SSR dp then ? a little bit bigger diameter would mean more flow therefore better performance and sound ?
which is what I am looking for - on the exhaust side of things, I have read about are either WAY too loud (we are expecting so cant have a race exhaust haha) or they have massive drone (could be too early to find the best exhaust for the Stinger)
should I worry about the gasket since my car only has 800km ? Should I wait to put more mileage on it before looking at this performance mods?

Gaskets are four layer steel with a crimp and thus like a crush washer you shouldn't reuse if you want 100% guaranty of NO leak, thus for a mere $~$25-40 bucks you can have no leak / no noise joints.. (since you after a quite exhaust that would be a must!) As for the FIT, it fits well just SSR didn't make two versions for flange location, just added a mod kit. Both will not add much sound to your exhaust except the SSR do have a little more drone. BUT not happy I see more delay on website... Now 5-15-2019 back ordered. Arrrrr
 
@Adamdan - bigger diameter would mean more flow therefore more in performance ? not sure :thumbdown:

do you have any clip with the new exhaust ? Could you share where you sourced it from and $ ?
I got it from a guy from eBay that was great to deal with. I’ve since directed 4 or 5 people to him and everyone had a good experience with the guy. It comes right from Asia. When I ordered mine it came in two day. If you search kmd76kmd76 on you tube I have some videos of my launching the car. The Jun evc is worth every penny. Push of a button it’s like oem.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
All, I know SSR has an internal history with KIA and that they were designed on CADFLOW, 12% more area does change the collector behavior of the pipe and it lowers the resonance, also the pipe is a little longer (also the cause of the 1/2 drop under the car). Hooker headers would TUNE the headers to augment power at a certain RPM range on normally exasperated engines with drastic effects just from tube size change and collector lengths changes, in this case your trying to remove back pressure from back turbine for higher efficiency, scavenging (standing waves) are not as prevalent in turbo collector but you can create 1st, 3rd, 5th, 7th standing waves that will help in the RPM range, but this is a smoke science with math and testing. Not saying that SSR has done this but the pull sheet did show they did something right. Just hope they get their delivery problems fixed soon. JUN BL have a strong drone at at 1400 RPM but is dealt with their full exhaust systems. (resonators added). If you got the money do a FULL mid-pipe and EVC JUN BL system and get the best of both worlds, street and race exhaust at a flip of a switch. ;)
 
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mid pipe + evc exhaust, we talking well over 2K o_Oo_O
 
On tuned cars both the down and mid pipes add almost no power. DP 3hp and 15 tq dyno confirmed on a customers car. MP should be even less. My before and after dragy showed no change with MP.
Some people have had good luck with cross over resonators for removing rasp.
SSR fitment is poor on the AWD.
 
Tonkabob, Sorry to be contradictory but excess back presser behind turbo WILL INCREASE Spin-up time of turbo WILL require more HP to push it to speed and maintain CFPM... DON'T say removing the CAT mid-pipe has NO or little effect, I'm OLD school with 40 yrs worth of high performance history and lots of street time with ground up builds, Normal exasperated, superchargers (both root and screw types), and turbos. The most restrictive part of the whole exhaust system on the Stinger IS the mid-pipe! Lowest cost gain of anything you can do on this car. Chips/Plug-Over systems just compensate with brute wasted effort that could be put to the wheels. A lot of science is already behind the GDI system, and it compensates for a lot of errors, but when you tune all aspects of a car (not just bolt on's) you get a winner. Paraphrased from Smokey Yunick.
 
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Here is they dyno the one on the right. There is broader power with the primary gone but still just 3 peak hp.
Drag/Acceleration - Kia Stinger 1/4 Mile Times

If you look at SSRs claims they clearly state it is on a stock car. I did 3.89 0-60 dragy on the way to the shop. Got the SSR mid put on and went out and ran a blistering 3.89 after the mid install. Sorry these just don't do much.

The midpipe and my 3 inch charge pipe are the only mods that didn't make me any faster.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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