{{ ImportShark }} NEW! JL Audio Stealth Subwoofer

It looks exactly as your car does now. This box was designed to be installed BEHIND all that (hence the “stealth” description) and not effect the visual appearance of the trunk area in the least. Your dealership wouldn’t even know it’s there.

Nice! So I take it you need to re-locate the 95470-J5100 control module and maybe the mystery module behind it in order to mount the enclosure?

The inside of my hatch
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Your installed photo
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I'm assuming your car is a GT2? Top module should be for the power hatch, module behind it is the electronic suspension. Both have to be relocated and the tabs cut for the modules to fit the box.
 
Correct, GT2 here.
Now I understand the request by Import Shark to get a GT2 in to test fitment, well, that and the wiring from the HK amp.
 
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20180517_213452.webp 20180517_213459.webp I just decided to go aftermarket (non stealth), I have the free air subs under the seat but I wanted the ability to get hard bass when I want it with the bass remote (aftermarket) and stock sound when I want it.
 
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Quick and easy! 3 questions for you.
Where are you grabbing your signal from?
Are you joust going with high level inputs into the amp?
Or are you adding a signal processor? If so which one?

I talked to Crutchfield today and they suggested using a AudioControl LC2i processor inline to feed an amp. I'll probably order that or something similar next week.
I dug out a sub box and amp from 15 years ago tonight. Unfortunately I can't find the power wire and speaker wire that has the connectors that run into the amp :(

Let us know when you get it up and running and how you like it.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
If this were somewhat less expensive, and more thoroughly tested/reviewed i'd really consider it. I'm pretty underwhelmed with the HK system for bass. It gives decent bass "sound" but no oomph because it just can't move much air.
 
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If this were somewhat less expensive, and more thoroughly tested/reviewed i'd really consider it. I'm pretty underwhelmed with the HK system for bass. It gives decent bass "sound" but no oomph because it just can't move much air.
The option to purchase the box by itself is quite affordable. That was added after the fully-loaded kit came out since a bunch of people indicated they'd prefer going with components they source themselves.
 
The 15 speaker HK setup on my Premium and on the GT1 and GT2 pack more than sufficient amount of bass. At full Bass from outside of car you would think someone had an aftermarket system installed. Its THAT good.
 
The 15 speaker HK setup on my Premium and on the GT1 and GT2 pack more than sufficient amount of bass. At full Bass from outside of car you would think someone had an aftermarket system installed. Its THAT good.

You’re certainly entitled to your opinion but this is to supplement the bass to get a nice knock to the low-end. Yes, the HK setup has bass, there’s no doubt about that. This setup adds quite a bit more to those who want it. I understand it’s not for everyone.
 
I liked it and i would love to have one but not ready to pay the premium. Might wait for it or go with some alternate solution.
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I will wait till its is confirmed that it works seamlessly with GT2 and then decide. :sneaky:
Well there’s no difference in the mount locations thankfully. We just haven’t been able to get a GT1/2 in the shop to show people how and where to move the tailgate lift motor assembly. Not many Stingers in this area unfortunately!
 
Well there’s no difference in the mount locations thankfully. We just haven’t been able to get a GT1/2 in the shop to show people how and where to move the tailgate lift motor assembly. Not many Stingers in this area unfortunately!
Thank you for putting the effort to assemble all this stuff. Options are never a bad thing! I'm not in a rush, hopefully get someone in down the line.
 
Have you guys noticed any ugly EQ'ing (whether fixed or volume level related) from the factory? Also noticing on the pinout that there's a SPDIF-wonder if you could route that in to a DSP?
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
any idea what's the power and ratings on the stock amp for the 9 speakers stingers?
 
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Have you guys noticed any ugly EQ'ing (whether fixed or volume level related) from the factory? Also noticing on the pinout that there's a SPDIF-wonder if you could route that in to a DSP?
I have tested the car doors on my home amp and found that there is vertally no difference in frequency response when you turn the DSP off. So I think there is very little or no eq form the factory system. I have since replaced all the speakers and able to turn the volume to the max. The bass is still nice and strong. I actually hope that they have done some EQ to match the acoustic of the car.
 
I have tested the car doors on my home amp and found that there is vertally no difference in frequency response when you turn the DSP off. So I think there is very little or no eq form the factory system. I have since replaced all the speakers and able to turn the volume to the max. The bass is still nice and strong. I actually hope that they have done some EQ to match the acoustic of the car.
The dsp processor does more for time alignment, speaker balancing, crossover points and phasing and less for equalization of the frequency response. Once the proper processing of the above is done correctly there is very little need for equalization. With the exception of a few bands your 1/3 octave response should be within 3db from band to band.
 
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This is from a youtube video of Harman engineers testing the sound system. Assuming that each line on the frequency response chart is 10db (flat out at the 9th line, 90db SPL was stated on the top L of screen), there is quite an audible peak of 10 db (green line -> flat response) at the treble which is not EQ'ed out. I think the red line is A weighted frequency response. I tested with my phone and got the same graph with 'Audio tool' app. The peak is at 8000Hz. I changed the mid range speaker to reduce that peak frequency.

 
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The statement on the equalization is completely false.. Every car needs equalization because of reflections, resonances and the fact we don’t sit equidistant between between various speakers with the same on/off axises.. Left and Right frequency is never identical due to these mentioned issues.. This isn’t me ranting.. these are facts..

Now the better statement is we should strive for better speaker placement, better installation, better resonance & reflection control so that less equalization is used..

Also 1/3 should only be used when parametric isn’t available as on very few occasions does a node line up at an exact 1/3 frequency.. 1/24 should be used during measurement whenever possible as you are exposing more truth with greater resolution.



The dsp processor does more for time alignment, speaker balancing, crossover points and phasing and less for equalization of the frequency response. Once the proper processing of the above is done correctly there is very little need for equalization. With the exception of a few bands your 1/3 octave response should be within 3db from band to band.
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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