I’ve yet to go over 120MPH due to sway

Yes of course: my AWD GT1 came with the PS4.
IME, this is ultra rare to find an AWD car that comes without AS tires. I haven't seen this in years.
 
IME, this is ultra rare to find an AWD car that comes without AS tires. I haven't seen this in years.
I'm a unicorn? Who knew? :D Actually, other than the northern states, AWD MY18 Stingers came with staggered summer tires more often than not.
 
If you are not AWD, there is no issues mixing tires F to R, you do want to have the same size tires as OEM for correct ride height and the same type/use tires, like summer performance, if that's what you are running in the rear. This has been done for years and there are no problems with it. Even using the same tires doesn't guarantee better handling, differences in tire width, rim width, sidewall support, front weight bias, etc., are all too numerous to think that the same tire F and R somehow fixes or equalizes all these things. There are better tires, so you wouldn't want to be putting economy tires up front if running good high end performance tires in the rear. But again, like use and like size, no problem. You are going to wear out rear tires faster anyway, handling is not going to be the same front to rear. It's virtually impossible for it to be.
Yea I thought so, and no it's not AWD so it shouldn't matter that much. It's super strange though, I don't really feel comfortable at the higher speeds, keeping it straight in the lines is very tough, even with a fresh aligntment.
 
What cold psi are they at? How regularly do you check?
 
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Uhhh, yeah...you got something wrong. Unless wheel damage or frame damage, I can only think of a few things that would get it floaty at that speed. Tires, shocks (probably not) or tires. Maybe the road itself...but probably not. I say keep it under 90 and you're good... someone, somewhere doesn't' want you going that fast. :whistle:
 
Ah Mischief. Between Dustin & Dado and the Fast & Furious movies I don't think much else contributed so significantly to my early interest in cars!
 
I've had no issues with this car at high speeds, you've got some kind of issue. My car is nothing but stable.
 
Anyone remember this video from years ago?

Freaking classic! I think I watched that six months after picking up my E36 actually! :p
 
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I've got 40k on my original Primacy A/S staggered never rotated nor aligned. Front and rears are at 5/32" (37% life remaining). Made multiple 150mph runs last week. Although my sway bars aren't stock. Guess I'm a unicorn like you Merlin when it comes to tire wear anyway. Lol
 
My 2020 GT w/ RWD came with summer Michelins and the rear tires were bald at like 10k (maybe 11k or 12k - cant remember) miles... unacceptable lmfao
 
Isn't this something getting sway bars done addresses?

I've done a fair bit of highway driving before and after I got the sway bars done and I find it much more stable at speed
 
^^Only if you're going in circles on on/off ramps. Sways bars reduce body roll. There is no body roll when going in a straight line. As been mentioned, the OP's issue is tire or suspension related.
 
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Isn't this something getting sway bars done addresses?

I've done a fair bit of highway driving before and after I got the sway bars done and I find it much more stable at speed
^^Only if you're going in circles on on/off ramps. Sways bars reduce body roll. There is no body roll when going in a straight line. As been mentioned, the OP's issue is tire or suspension related.
The OEM sway bars allow "hop" or "float" too, and that is noticeable in a straight line when the road surface is up and down. The aftermarket sway bars eliminate "float" almost entirely: my car gives one up and down and it's done. However, on the OEM sways, the ups and downs on Hwy 95 were no problem at high extra legal speed: the rear seemed planted to me at the time: but I've wondered if I would feel comparatively greater stability on that stretch of road with the Eibach sway bars.

In addition to reducing body roll, the aftermarket sway bars cut way down on the Stinger's "side step" or "twitch" in the rear when cornering.
 
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^^Help me understand. If the both sides of the car (L/R) are going up and down with the dips/rises in the road, how are the sway bars in play? I can make sense of this if there's a change in one side but not the other - a bump in the road on one side for example. As I understand, a sway bar becomes loaded when there's a change in one side's suspension relative to the other. If a sway bar is too stiff for the application (or adjusted to the stiffest setting), there's a phenomenon called steering where kickback when one side drives over something that unsettles the suspension on that side.

When I last installed swaybars on the last car, the suspension was either fully unloaded (jack stands) or all 4 wheels were on drive on ramps (loaded with weight of car). I can't remember how the car was situated (this was 9 years ago). Either way, all the sway bar endlink and frame bushing bolts all lined up without having to compress anything.
 
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Never had that issue before. Bombing it through turns and all, I've never felt like the car was anything other than planted.

Get your alignment checked, maybe?
 
^^Help me understand. If the both sides of the car (L/R) are going up and down with the dips/rises in the road, how are the sway bars in play? I can make sense of this if there's a change in one side but not the other - a bump in the road on one side for example. As I understand, a sway bar becomes loaded when there's a change in one side's suspension relative to the other. If a sway bar is too stiff for the application (or adjusted to the stiffest setting), there's a phenomenon called steering where kickback when one side drives over something that unsettles the suspension on that side.

When I last installed swaybars on the last car, the suspension was either fully unloaded (jack stands) or all 4 wheels were on drive on ramps (loaded with weight of car). I can't remember how the car was situated (this was 9 years ago). Either way, all the sway bar endlink and frame bushing bolts all lined up without having to compress anything.
I had felt "hop" in a straight line for over three months: when I got on Oregon 95 and pushed speed well over 140 MPH, the definite feeling of heightened stability was in spite of the humps every few hundred yards: that was with OEM sways, which under those conditions seemed more than adequate: leading to my question above, about if I would notice a difference with the Eibach now, going over the same stretch.

Where I have noticed reduced "hop/float" is at speed and cornering: which you would expect with the Eibach in that situation. The complaint about the OEM bars, particularly the rear one, is all in cornering, where hop/float and stepping out occur in a combined dance of sorts: very unsettling if you're going quite rapidly, hit a dip and (or) high spot and the rear end feels like it's going to break loose while going airborne: it doesn't happen, but it feels like it is. To get rid of that feeling we replace the OEM sways (especially in the rear; I had the rear Eibach for a year and a half before also installing the front Eibach).
 
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The OEM sway bars allow "hop" or "float" too, and that is noticeable in a straight line when the road surface is up and down. The aftermarket sway bars eliminate "float" almost entirely: my car gives one up and down and it's done. However, on the OEM sways, the ups and downs on Hwy 95 were no problem at high extra legal speed: the rear seemed planted to me at the time: but I've wondered if I would feel comparatively greater stability on that stretch of road with the Eibach sway bars.

In addition to reducing body roll, the aftermarket sway bars cut way down on the Stinger's "side step" or "twitch" in the rear when cornering.


I've "hooned" the car a bit late evening a couple of times recently. It's dead flat at relatively high speeds and yes the cornering is vastly improved.

I won't say how fast I was going but lets just say fast enough to notice if it would get floaty.
 
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