I’ve got two quotes for replacing rear only sway bar with Eibach labor only, both almost $600

[David Bee]

Hey everyone. Stinger gt line AWD. Getting my Eibach front and rear sway bar kit tomorrow. I’ve watched all the vids online and will be installing the front myself.

I got two quotes today from pro shops both almost $600 for the rear install. Both quotes say that the “book” tells them that they must drop the rear crossmember and also do an alignment after the install. They both quote like 4-5 hours to do the rear only.

The videos online do not show anyone dropping the crossmember, nor do they say anything about doing an alignment. The threads here on the rear install don’t mention anything about that either. People here are also saying they paid around $200 and it didn’t take much more than an hour.

Any advise on this? I really don’t feel confident enough to do the rear sway myself, and I probably don’t have the proper tools. I phoned 2 Kia dealers for quotes and all they started doing is loosing their shit about warranty. You have no idea how much I hate the Kia dealers service around me and one of them literally told me that if my radio broke Kia wouldn’t fix it under warrantee because I void my warrantee by installing the sway bars. God how I hate them.

Anyways do I really need to get an alignment after this? And drop tje cross member?

 

[Snowwhite]

no on both questions. you don't need an alignment after swaybars and there is no need to drop the cross member. I did it myself with only a slightly longer articulating rachet and the right sockets/extensions. While it was a bit of a pain in the butt, it wasn't the hardest job I've done on a car at all. I haven't removed a transmission or anything like that.

 

[andybob]

I’ll look under my car in a bit to see how difficult it appears to remove and install the rear sway bar. I have a 22 GT-Line AWD.

I am guessing an alignment is recommended if the subframe is removed. If it can be done without removing the subframe, I don’t foresee an alignment being necessary.

 

[Snowwhite]

you have to raise the rear on jack stands, remove both wheels. look for the thread here, a few of us have put up detailed photos and the tools we used. Once you have the wheels off you're only dealing with a total of 6 nuts to unscrew and screw back down.

 

[David Bee]

no on both questions. you don't need an alignment after swaybars and there is no need to drop the cross member. I did it myself with only a slightly longer articulating rachet and the right sockets/extensions. While it was a bit of a pain in the butt, it wasn't the hardest job I've done on a car at all. I haven't removed a transmission or anything like that.

Thank you for the reply. As I’m always looking for an excuse to buy more tools, is there any way you could tell me exactly what length and drive of the articulating rachet you used and what exact sockets worked for you?

 

[Rodtheviking]

Looks easy to me, going to do this soon.

Looks like it just one bolt that is a pain.

 

[David Bee]

you have to raise the rear on jack stands, remove both wheels. look for the thread here, a few of us have put up detailed photos and the tools we used. Once you have the wheels off you're only dealing with a total of 6 nuts to unscrew and screw back down.

Thanks for the reply. I did look at those threads but since I wasn’t expecting to do it myself didn’t pay close attention. I’ll go back and take notes. Thanks.

 

[David Bee]

Looks easy to me, going to do this soon.

Looks like it just one bolt that is a pain.

Ya that one bolt scares me lol. Looks like I’ll be watching this a few more times.

 

[JSolo]

The biggest headache is on the rear driver side. Probably why I haven't bothered to do this yet. That and I don't feel like spending $500-600 on a sway bar I'll get to enjoy several times a year.

 

[andybob]

I just looked at my car. Definitely looks like some finesse will be required to get the bracket bolts off and the sway bar fished out, but since others have done it without dropping the subframe I think you’ll be fine.

 

[Aarvix]

I've done 2 stingers now, takes about 2-2.5 hours, 1.75 being that one damn bolt.

 

[Snowwhite]

here is my post with the rachet

you might want to dive into that thread as well.

 

[Rodtheviking]

I have a 14mm spark plug socket to try, it has wrench flats on it to use a open end wrench and not a socket wrench.

Going to try that first.

like this

https://www.amazon.com/OSOF-Socket-12-Point-Removal-Square/dp/B07D12KH8V

a 14mm speed wrench might fit too, I'll try that and report back.

 

[Snowwhite]

I have a 14mm spark plug socket to try, it has wrench flats on it to use a open end wrench and not a socket wrench.

Going to try that first.

like this

https://www.amazon.com/OSOF-Socket-12-Point-Removal-Square/dp/B07D12KH8V

a 14mm speed wrench might fit too, I'll try that and report back.

I don't know that 12 point will be small enough. I was going one or two clicks of the rachet at a time. there really isn't much room to turn.

 

[MerlintheMad]

I phoned 2 Kia dealers for quotes and all they started doing is loosing their shit about warranty.

Utter bollocks. "My" dealer installed both of my Eibach sway bars no questions asked. Cost was for c. half an hour labor front and c. one hour labor rear.

 

[Deviate]

Question to all, would a crows foot get in there to do the job on that one bolt? Or is the ratchet and socket best? Also once broke free is there room to use a ratcheting box wrench.

I did see the video but it didn't show enough to answer my questions. May have to watch it again

 

[Rodtheviking]

That's what I was looking at, a speed ratcheting wrench, even a wobbly one might work.

 

[Snowwhite]

Question to all, would a crows foot get in there to do the job on that one bolt? Or is the ratchet and socket best? Also once broke free is there room to use a ratcheting box wrench.

I did see the video but it didn't show enough to answer my questions. May have to watch it again

I don't think there's enough room around the nut to work with a crow's foot. has to be a socket.

 

[cncBilly]

Thank you for the reply. As I’m always looking for an excuse to buy more tools, is there any way you could tell me exactly what length and drive of the articulating rachet you used and what exact sockets worked for you?

Get yourself a midsize socket for the drivers rear. I think it was a 14 mm. Small socket to small, large socket to tall. Other than that one nut it’s not to bad. Good luck

 

[boosted1g]

I installed the rear on my car in my own garage.
As others have stated it is a bit of pain in the butt, but is totally doable, and no you don't need to drop the crossmember or anything major.
I removed a couple brackets under the car to gain more room and a I believe that is it.

There was some reason why my breaker bar would not fit. I ended up using a standard 3/8 craftsman socket wrench with about 6-8" of pipe slid on the handle for extra leverage.

You will not be able to get the bolts off on the driver side from the wheel/top side, you will need to get under the car.
Also, do yourself a huge favor and have a helper to help guide/hold the wrench while you are under the car