How to respond to sales rep?

[Dave Miller]

What does Hanlon's razor suggest for dealing with behavior that's rooted in stupidity and malice?

Go somewhere else

 

[SEA Stinger]

Go somewhere else

Bingo!

 

[Rufus]

That would be cool, we could buy some awesome door prizes with the registration fees. Like I said I think it would be a way different event in the summer too - we could cook out and have people all around the dealership as opposed to stuffed into the showroom. It was a pretty miserable day yesterday, the weather stations were telling everyone not to leave home.

Yeah, Mother Nature can be capricious. I believe you're right about logistics. Late spring/summer on a weekend or Friday would probably draw a bigger crowd. I applaud you and your dealership for wanting to reach out like that. I have a feeling if the soiree were to happen again as imagined but also wrapped it into a sort of Stinger/other Kia model owners meet, you'd find a bunch of folks doing the selling for you Lol!

I have to admit to feeling a bit like a brand ambassador for Kia lately, what with the questions I've fielded since taking delivery from curious folks. I've had six coworkers ask me to take them for a spin, and I work from the office only 2 days a week! It feels nice to have people who drive the Stinger's bogey targets actually wanting to drive in mine!

So, if you do ever get a chance to do something like this again, if it's held on a weekend I will drive on down from Seattle for it Perhaps some other local Stingers may be interested in a caravan, @SEA Stinger , @iclicku , @Jeaddi, @Tony G, maybe @westcoastGT, @Irish and some others to make it a real PNW meetup?

 

[iclicku]

Yeah, Mother Nature can be capricious. I believe you're right about logistics. Late spring/summer on a weekend or Friday would probably draw a bigger crowd. I applaud you and your dealership for wanting to reach out like that. I have a feeling if the soiree were to happen again as imagined but also wrapped it into a sort of Stinger/other Kia model owners meet, you'd find a bunch of folks doing the selling for you Lol!

I have to admit to feeling a bit like a brand ambassador for Kia lately, what with the questions I've fielded since taking delivery from curious folks. I've had six coworkers ask me to take them for a spin, and I work from the office only 2 days a week! It feels nice to have people who drive the Stinger's bogey targets actually wanting to drive in mine!

So, if you do ever get a chance to do something like this again, if it's held on a weekend I will drive on down from Seattle for it Perhaps some other local Stingers may be interested in a caravan, @SEA Stinger , @iclicku , @Jeaddi, @Tony G, maybe @westcoastGT, @Irish and some others to make it a real PNW meetup?

I think that would be awesome.

 

[Jeaddi]

I’m in, let’s do it!

 

[MarkyMark]

It appears jrhodes87 knows all about the lease cash and how leasing works. So this kinda begs the question: Why did jrhodes87 ask the questions in the first place if he already knew the answers? It points to who is starting it out being deceptive.

If you the customer go into a dealer acting all dumb, but you know all the ins and outs, you are already pulling out the first salvo in being deceptive. If the dealer fires back, so be it. But I suggest don't act all huffy about the dealer hiding things, when you are doing the same...

In fact, I typically just start with an email conversation with the dealer. As for the Costco program cost/quote (that's $500 below invoice). And yes, I start with a dealer that is in the Costco program.

At that point you both have a basis price starting point. Doesnt matter if it's lease or purcahse, that's the price you can both agree upon. Then move to asking for the lease cash on that and nail down your Adjusted Capitalized Cost.

Then just work from there. It isn't rocket science at that point, the only other sticking point could be the Money Factor where the dealer wants to keep the allowed .0004 in the interest, isntead of just taking $150. So I personally would push to eliminate that. The dealer gets $150 instead of $2xx or so. If they want to sell a car and are a volume dealer going after MSOs (Marking Sales Objectives), then this sholdn't be a sales killer at all. If it is, then you got this far, have numbers and it's time to move on and start again.

Or, you can lay out everything you want in an email off the bat (although that is less effective). But you can try that. Lay out the Costco starting price, add the lease cash, the Money Factor, and how you will pay for tax and license fees, and the dealer document fee, etc... See who will sign on with that sale.

Make it easy, and let them know what you want. If they say no, move on. There are a LOT of dealers out there to work with. And you can leave that offer as an open invitation to when they want/need to sell a vehicle to you. You never need to buy.

My $.02 worth.

 

[ballistic]

the only other sticking point could be the Money Factor where the dealer wants to keep the allowed .0004 in the interest, isntead of just taking $150. So I personally would push to eliminate that. The dealer gets $150 instead of $2xx or so.

i do like how many of you are so knowledgable about getting the best deals but do you guys really care about saving that $50 when you're making a $50000 purchase?

 

[TO Turbo]

Yikes I looked at their website and even their real lease specials are advertised pretty misleadingly. Hanlon's razor loses this one.

Had to look that one up. It's a good day when you learn something new - thanks!

 

[StingerGT68]

i do like how many of you are so knowledgable about getting the best deals but do you guys really care about saving that $50 when you're making a $50000 purchase?

It's all about the HUNT

 

[Rufus]

Had to look that one up. It's a good day when you learn something new - thanks!

Occam and Hanlon, sitting in a tree, j-u-d-g-i-n-g

 

[MarkyMark]

i do like how many of you are so knowledgable about getting the best deals but do you guys really care about saving that $50 when you're making a $50000 purchase?

This is the way it works. Dealer makes $225 off your higher interest instead of KMF paying them a flat $150. Then they charge another $100 more than what is reasonable in some Doc fee. Then their is the Advertising Charge they will only have in there when filling out paprwork and claim its mandatory. The "dealer fee" can appear out of nowhere, along with a frivolous "transport fee" which is NOT the Destination Charge, it's additonal.

Want me to continue, because sadly, I can. Dealers, even in a less predatory sales environment with car sales, it is still a highly phycological play of "Okay we just caved to you, now you give us just a little someting in return" and that goes on and on until you are out $500+...

As for me, I'm "almost" never into paying a dime more than I should. I'm also 100% debt-free (own the house, own the cars, carry no CC balance - ever) so it's just the way I operate I suppose. I could wash produce at Safeway and family could still get by. I know guys that make 2x and 3x what I do, and they have zippo to show for it. I don't take anything I've earned for granted. And there is my plug I suppose for Dave Ramsey and Finanical Peace University. Ha!

As for my Stinger, mine will "only" be $35,725.22 - if I do it right that is (GT w/Drive Wise).

That's my take ; )

 

[mldavis2]

Pretty much how I do it, @MarkyMark, except I get everything in writing and make sure they commit to a one-number price that I make the check out to. I can then finance it if rates are below what I can make on my investments, or run the lease cash-rebate deal and pay it off immediately to avoid interest. The transport fee is a flat $900 and is on the sticker with the MSRP. Tell them up front that you want everything in the final amount down on paper. Nothing gets added at closing -- period. If they do, you walk unless they remove it.

 

[MarkyMark]

Pretty much how I do it, @MarkyMark, except I get everything in writing and make sure they commit to a one-number price that I make the check out to. I can then finance it if rates are below what I can make on my investments, or run the lease cash-rebate deal and pay it off immediately to avoid interest. The transport fee is a flat $900 and is on the sticker with the MSRP. Tell them up front that you want everything in the final amount down on paper. Nothing gets added at closing -- period. If they do, you walk unless they remove it.

@mldavis2, nice takes! As for Transporation Fee, I'm talking about an ADDITIONAL dealer fee above and beyond the sticker Destination Charge. Yah, seriously.

I like to do everything via email, and get it ALL documented. If they won't, then I won't, and I'll move on.

 

[SEA Stinger]

This is all very sound advice, @MarkyMark and @mldavis2!

Might be good to emphasize that a significant number of dealers will not go along with this kind of smart, informed buying strategy. So when buyers encounter a dealer who doesn't "play ball", they will need to be willing to move on and keep looking until they find a dealer who does.

 

[mldavis2]

@mldavis2, nice takes! As for Transporation Fee, I'm talking about an ADDITIONAL dealer fee above and beyond the sticker Destination Charge. Yah, seriously.

There is no such extra transportation fee unless you are a sucker for it. What that probably is, would be a fee to pay the driver's time and meals to drive cars back and forth between dealers for a swap. That's on them, not on you. Tell them you will do the transport duty for free and do not pay it.

 

[MarkyMark]

This is all very sound advice, @MarkyMark and @mldavis2!

Might be good to emphasize that a significant number of dealers will not go along with this kind of smart, informed buying strategy. So when buyers encounter a dealer who doesn't "play ball", they will need to be willing to move on and keep looking until they find a dealer who does.

Might be good to emphasize that a significant number of dealers will not go along with this kind of smart, informed buying strategy. So when buyers encounter a dealer who doesn't "play ball", they will need to be willing to move on and keep looking until they find a dealer who does.[/QUOTE]
That is EXACTLY right. The Mazda dealer I ended up purchasing from (my latest car), was not only the lowest price, but also workd 90% via email with me. It was all in writing, no hidden fees, charges, nothing. Just really clean and easy. However, if that owner doesn't have a Kia dealership and I engage a few that want to play games I'll just move on. Far too many dealerships out there that will quickly see I understand how this works, and will either just sell me a car. Others will quickly play games. If so, quickly move on. NOT worth the headaches in trying to get those dealers to be up front and honest because top-down, that is not how they work.

 

[jrhodes87]

It appears jrhodes87 knows all about the lease cash and how leasing works. So this kinda begs the question: Why did jrhodes87 ask the questions in the first place if he already knew the answers? It points to who is starting it out being deceptive.

If you the customer go into a dealer acting all dumb, but you know all the ins and outs, you are already pulling out the first salvo in being deceptive. If the dealer fires back, so be it. But I suggest don't act all huffy about the dealer hiding things, when you are doing the same...

In fact, I typically just start with an email conversation with the dealer. As for the Costco program cost/quote (that's $500 below invoice). And yes, I start with a dealer that is in the Costco program.

At that point you both have a basis price starting point. Doesnt matter if it's lease or purcahse, that's the price you can both agree upon. Then move to asking for the lease cash on that and nail down your Adjusted Capitalized Cost.

Then just work from there. It isn't rocket science at that point, the only other sticking point could be the Money Factor where the dealer wants to keep the allowed .0004 in the interest, isntead of just taking $150. So I personally would push to eliminate that. The dealer gets $150 instead of $2xx or so. If they want to sell a car and are a volume dealer going after MSOs (Marking Sales Objectives), then this sholdn't be a sales killer at all. If it is, then you got this far, have numbers and it's time to move on and start again.

Or, you can lay out everything you want in an email off the bat (although that is less effective). But you can try that. Lay out the Costco starting price, add the lease cash, the Money Factor, and how you will pay for tax and license fees, and the dealer document fee, etc... See who will sign on with that sale.

Make it easy, and let them know what you want. If they say no, move on. There are a LOT of dealers out there to work with. And you can leave that offer as an open invitation to when they want/need to sell a vehicle to you. You never need to buy.

My $.02 worth.

I emailed this dealer about 2 and a half weeks ago before I knew the lease cash was offered by Kia and not an optional dealer incentive. They took 2 weeks to respond.

 

[SEA Stinger]

I emailed this dealer about 2 and a half weeks ago before I knew the lease cash was offered by Kia and not an optional dealer incentive. They took 2 weeks to respond.

Have you found another dealer who follows better business practices?

 

[jrhodes87]

Have you found another dealer who follows better business practices?

Haha yeah I actually have a very nice sales guy who is determined to get me a black, white, or metal GT for the price I'm looking for, he's been very helpful, texts me and says "hey man I haven't forgotten about you!"


I've probably emailed about 7 dealerships within a distance I'm comfortable driving to to inquire about their stingers, some helpful some not