Have the "Trunk Thunk" Kit, now what?

I don't know if it makes a difference but I bypassed the TSB and just used some vinyl wrap around the top pieces - car is quiet as a church mouse now. I had some scrap black pieces and that solved it. I temporarily (as a test) threw some black electrical tape over the three "fingers" and it worked as well - just to keep me from losing my s**t from the rattle in a '22 with fewer than 2k miles. *grin*
 
I don't know if it makes a difference but I bypassed the TSB and just used some vinyl wrap around the top pieces - car is quiet as a church mouse now. I had some scrap black pieces and that solved it. I temporarily (as a test) threw some black electrical tape over the three "fingers" and it worked as well - just to keep me from losing my s**t from the rattle in a '22 with fewer than 2k miles. *grin*
yeah f%$k it, at this point ill throw some electrical tape on it if it means not listening to the rattle. i feel like i could sue since it has given me ptsd. where are these 3 fingers you speak of? ive tried adjust those two rubber stoppers, that dont do shhh.
 
yeah f%$k it, at this point ill throw some electrical tape on it if it means not listening to the rattle. i feel like i could sue since it has given me ptsd. where are these 3 fingers you speak of? ive tried adjust those two rubber stoppers, that dont do shhh.
there are 3 contact points one the bumpers on the side of the hatch that meet with the rubber stops , not the round stoppers. the one on the hatch is the one that the oem rattle "kit" applies to with the thicker rubber and extra washers to push it out a little...

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there are 3 contact points one the bumpers on the side of the hatch that meet with the rubber stops , not the round stoppers. the one on the hatch is the one that the oem rattle "kit" applies to with the thicker rubber and extra washers to push it out a little...

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My apologies for not being more clear. I'm not at my car nor do I have pictures handy but vipeboy2000 explained better than I did. I wrapped the upper bumpers on the hatch and she is quiet on the road now.
 
3 points? The bumpers on either side + the latch itself? Mine is just starting to make some noise. Not going to do anything yet (2500 miles), until it gets worse. Then deal with it myself rather than taking it to the dealer.
 
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3 points? The bumpers on either side + the latch itself? Mine is just starting to make some noise. Not going to do anything yet (2500 miles), until it gets worse. Then deal with it myself rather than taking it to the dealer.
Take a look at vipeboy2000's pic. There is a plastic bump stop (pic attached) on either side of the hatch right at the end of the support shock. It is attached with two torx/star screws. There are three raised contact points. Covering those with vinyl or electrical tape (I'm testing with plastidip now) will eliminate the Trunk Thunk.
 

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3 points? The bumpers on either side + the latch itself? Mine is just starting to make some noise. Not going to do anything yet (2500 miles), until it gets worse. Then deal with it myself rather than taking it to the dealer.
It's one piece of plastic on the hatch with 3 contact points on it.
 
I see.. so having a rubber pad underneath raises this slightly so it presses harder against its counterpart in the hatch opening.

No adjustment to those bumpers to either side of the latch in the hatch portion?
 
Ah, the old: "If all else fails, whack it with a mallet" TSB. Years ago I was in final trim at Ford Chicago Assembly and this was how they were getting the doors aligned on the old Ford Taurus; with a mallet and a 2 x 4 to the lower front door hinge
I use a 8ft 2x4 when I change the struts on my Taurus. If it doesn't require dimensional lumber, it ain't a Ford.
 
Can't wait to get up this morning and electrical tape the shit outta those 3 contact points. Gunna be so attractive. I'm excited for a commute with no rattling.
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
i can confirm the electrical tape worked!! its like driving a new car:D. on big bumps, still no bueno, i just need to get better at dodging, i guess. ...reminds me of that saying "if you cant duct it, f$%^ it".
 
I can also confirm that plastidip softened the surface of the bump stop enough that 80% of bumps that caused a rattle previously do not do so any longer. The really big bumps still cause the rattle so I am looking into options to fix with stuff I have around the garage. I will always take a free fix when I can get one. *grin*

It isn't that I don't want to go to the auto parts store, buy a couple of washers and fix it that way - I am just more of a tinkerer and enjoy trying to fix stuff on my own in a different manner than someone else.

Options, baby. Gotta have options.
 
Take a look at vipeboy2000's pic. There is a plastic bump stop (pic attached) on either side of the hatch right at the end of the support shock. It is attached with two torx/star screws. There are three raised contact points. Covering those with vinyl or electrical tape (I'm testing with plastidip now) will eliminate the Trunk Thunk.
Thanks man.

Just to clarify, the 3 contact points would be these? (Photo attached) And adding electrical tape on those 3 points correct? :)
 

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Thanks man.

Just to clarify, the 3 contact points would be these? (Photo attached) And adding electrical tape on those 3 points correct? :)
You are 100% correct - that was where I put my tape for testing. Just working on a more permanent solution now.
 
You are 100% correct - that was where I put my tape for testing. Just working on a more permanent solution now.
i did the tops and the bottoms, know what i mean? just tape that shhh everywhere!
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I have some old handle bar grips for the motorcycle. Slice 'em down the middle and install between the hatch and that 3 toothed widget.

Something like this;

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I installed the kit and it fixed the loud thunk I was getting over larger bumps, particularly while accelerating.

I found a "clean" copy of the full service bulletin, SA322 with the part number for the pad and washer kit.

Thank you for posting the installation guide.

Important to note is step #2.

overslam bumper.PNG

There are easily adjustable overslam bumpers that should be checked. One of my overslam bumpers wasn't protruding nearly enough, so I don't think that side was making contact.

Once I installed the kit and adjusted the bumpers, I noticed that the automatic liftgate (GT2) sounded like it required more effort to close the latch. To me that indicated the overslam bumpers and/or guide bumpers were making better contact.
 
3DF77077-41E8-44C3-9107-B46DB315EEB6.webpI used some left over moleskin felt from tint protector. Quiet as can be now.
 
I installed the kit and it fixed the loud thunk I was getting over larger bumps, particularly while accelerating.



Thank you for posting the installation guide.

Important to note is step #2.

View attachment 65452

There are easily adjustable overslam bumpers that should be checked. One of my overslam bumpers wasn't protruding nearly enough, so I don't think that side was making contact.

Once I installed the kit and adjusted the bumpers, I noticed that the automatic liftgate (GT2) sounded like it required more effort to close the latch. To me that indicated the overslam bumpers and/or guide bumpers were making better contact.
what kit did you install? Is it available for purchase or do you need to bring it to a dealership? I saw something about a kit that the dealership needs to install but only if your VIN is listed. Nothing about a kit that can be bought.
 
Part # 81738-J5010QQK which I ordered here. It’s a set of two thicker foam pads plus 8 washers.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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