Hatchback Update.

[Kamauxx]

t 40...it's a big 'un

Yep. Biggest in my lil ole set is a 30. I still managed to get one loose but gave up on the rest.

 

[eflyguy]

Just be thankful it’s not red loctite, you would never get it loose unless you apply heat.

Blue is also designed to loosen grip with heat - just slowly and carefully apply to the surrounding metal parts with a heat gun or hairdryer.

 

[Stinger GT SS]

Blue is also designed to loosen grip with heat - just slowly and carefully apply to the surrounding metal parts with a heat gun or hairdryer.

Agree, but with red you will need oxy-acetylene heat to loosen them.

 

[Kamauxx]

I went ahead and added the washers yesterday. No more thumping from back there.

Now if only I could get rid of the creaking from the sunroof.

 

[Never thought]

Weird this is still a problem. Did you guys get the second fix from Kia? I had 2 TSBs on it. The first worked for a month, the second I’ve had no more rattle.

 

[Kamauxx]

Weird this is still a problem. Did you guys get the second fix from Kia? I had 2 TSBs on it. The first worked for a month, the second I’ve had no more rattle.

I try to avoid them as much as possible. I had them fix my rotors a few days ago and that "it'll be about an hour" ordeal turned into a 7 hour nightmare.

 

[SteveCo]

Blue is also designed to loosen grip with heat - just slowly and carefully apply to the surrounding metal parts with a heat gun or hairdryer.

I've used a lot of Loctite Blue (great product), but never had to use heat when removing fasteners assembled with it. Heat will help loosen any threaded fastener, whether Loctite was used or not, but would rarely be needed. Per the company's own literature: Loctite® Threadlocker Blue 242® is designed for the locking and sealing of threaded fasteners which require normal disassembly with standard hand tools.

Yep, blue loctite, they didn't skimp on it either....shouldn't need a second application.

Any time I reassemble a part that had Loctite on it, I thoroughly clean the threads of any residue, then reapply new Loctite before putting it back together. The product cures in place when air is excluded from the tightened part, and isn't designed for re-use.

 

[Never thought]

I try to avoid them as much as possible. I had them fix my rotors a few days ago and that "it'll be about an hour" ordeal turned into a 7 hour nightmare.

Wow!!

 

[rocket23]

Any time I reassemble a part that had Loctite on it, I thoroughly clean the threads of any residue, then reapply new Loctite before putting it back together. The product cures in place when air is excluded from the tightened part, and isn't designed for re-use.

maybe not designed for reuse, but it still does it's job the 2nd time around.

as for the ''red'' quote, air is what turns it to a plastic solid....not the otherway around as you mistakenly posted. Here is a answer from loctite if you think I'm full of b.s.,lol
From Loctite;

Threadlock works by filling the gap between two threaded components, if pre applied (dry) then you are deforming this (its plastic basically) to squish it into the thread. When applied wet it flows into the thread giving a wider application and also forming to all the extra surface area of the full thread, so would work better (tho obviously the previous method works sufficiently enough).

From loctitie;

“LOCTITE threadlockers are single-component liquid and semi-solid adhesives. They cure at room temperature to a hard solid thermoset plastic when applied to metal fasteners and in the absence of air. The adhesive completely fills the gaps between mating threads to lock threads and ensure consistent clamp loads.”

 

[SteveCo]

as for the ''red'' quote, air is what turns it to a plastic solid....not the otherway around as you mistakenly posted. Here is a answer from loctite if you think I'm full of b.s.,lol

The quote you provided from Loctite confirms that 'They cure at room temperature to a hard solid thermoset plastic when applied to metal fasteners and in the absence of air', as I stated - why do you consider that mistaken?

 

[rocket23]

the term air is excluded, My bad I read it wrong, point is the product can be used again , I wouldn't use it a 3rd time however Thats asking for trouble,imo.

 

[Jeff K]

Weird this is still a problem. Did you guys get the second fix from Kia? I had 2 TSBs on it. The first worked for a month, the second I’ve had no more rattle.

I took my car into the dealership this past Saturday. They already knew about the TSB and fixed the issue! Can't believe the difference....had no idea how bad it was until they fixed it. For anyone around the Houston area.....Westside KIA. No confusion or run around.....they knew exactly what to do.

And it did include adding washers. I'll try posting the work order later today.

 

[Brian B]

Thanks for posting that video, that is very helpful to Stinger owners trying to figure out how to put an end to this hatch rattle issue. I will do this on my Stinger because the hatch rattles like crazy now at 6K miles ! Also very nice sound deadener application. That section where he applied it is the biggest difference why the KIA Stinger has more road noise then the Genesis G70-G80. Both those cars have sound deadeners in the truck area under the car the Stinger has none.

 

[rocket23]

Thanks for posting that video, that is very helpful to Stinger owners trying to figure out how to put an end to this hatch rattle issue. I will do this on my Stinger because the hatch rattles like crazy now at 6K miles ! Also very nice sound deadener application. That section where he applied it is the biggest difference why the KIA Stinger has more road noise then the Genesis G70-G80. Both those cars have sound deadeners in the truck area under the car the Stinger has none.

Just got done doing my trunk area..........half hour tops, I cleaned it with alcohol first.......helps with adhesion when it's cold ''frost king'' is the brand and under 20 bucks at any home depot.