Floor Jacks Cont'd

DonD

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Seems like the consensus is that no one has found a single point on the underside of the Stinger GT where you can lift the entire front end to do an oil change. Am I correct?

Seems like the "solution" is some beam you engage the pinch welds on either side of the car aft of the front wheels. Sounds cumberson and possibly prone to a crash to me.

I'm having the dealer do a 500-550 mile oil change and will be able to ask the service manager a number of questions.

Right now, I'm leaning toward a long, gradually sloping floor ramp and using one jack on either side with the pinch welds to do tire rotations. Don
 
Do you have personal experience with a brand of ramp that works with your Stinger? AWD likely is better at climbing a ramp than RWD. I tried one in years past on a high performance RWD car and all it did was push the ramp forward toward the end of the garage. Never worked.

Interested in your experience. Don

Edited to add that I went back and noticed that you have XPEL Ceramic. I'm planning on getting that put in, how do you like it? Worth the extra $ or not? Don
 
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Can't post links to the products I use since I'm new, but, below is what I use.

I use the FloTool Durable RhinoRamps sold at Home Depot. My car had no issues going up, sitting on them or coming down.

I use an extractor for the oil change which makes it easy, clean and quick. The one I use can be found on Amazon and it's called "FIRSTINFO A1102USY5 US. DE. Patent 6.5L Pneumatic/Manual Oil Extractor Pump for Automobile Fluids Vacuum Evacuation w/Hose Storage & 3.5 x 4.5mm Hose & Sealing Cap".

Jack on the pinch weld, place jack stand. Repeat on other side. Swap tires, drop her down and do the same for the rear. Zero issues doing this for my tire rotation.
 
For oil changes I use Race Ramps 67" XT ramps. Works great and has a 10 inch lift. For tires I use two floor jacks.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I just changed oil in mine over the weekend @ 1340 miles. I have an older Allied 3.5Ton floor jack. It has a rubber pad on the round gizzy-whutz-it. I jacked at the front pinch points. Have some left over 6"x6" treated post blocks (10" length) left from another project. I placed one under each front tire. Let the jack down after placing the block, went to the other side and repeat. Gave plenty of clearance to get under and remove the skid plates and do the oil change.
I'll have to use jack stands when rotating the front tires.
The ramps would be nice, but don't really want to have to worry about storing them when not in use.
 
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I just changed oil in mine over the weekend @ 1340 miles. I have an older Allied 3.5Ton shop jack. It has a rubber pad on the round gizzy-whutz-it. I jacked at the front pinch points. Have some left over 6"x6" treated post blocks (10' length) left from another project. I placed one under each front tire. Let the jack down after placing the block, went to the other side and repeat. Gave plenty of clearance to get under and remove the skid plates and do the oil change.
I'll have to use jack stands when rotating the front tires.
The ramps would be nice, but don't really want to have to worry about storing them when not in use.
Thanks, that's a post that answers some of my questions. I have two wooden devices built with 3 2X8s screwed and glued together with brackets to keep the tire from moving. Not having gotting under it yet, I didn't know how much would be needed. A 4th board might be good as well.

I like the idea of a ramp but the ones I tried in the past only shoved the ramps toward the home end of the garage. Don
 
Been using Harbor Freight ramps.

Also, Just got a 10L extractor. 3rd Oil Change, and first time with the extractor. Worlds of difference.

PXL_20211107_192833591.jpg

Going to be doing brakes soon, so a floor jack will be in my future.
 
I just changed oil in mine over the weekend @ 1340 miles. I have an older Allied 3.5Ton shop jack. It has a rubber pad on the round gizzy-whutz-it. I jacked at the front pinch points. Have some left over 6"x6" treated post blocks (10' length) left from another project. I placed one under each front tire. Let the jack down after placing the block, went to the other side and repeat. Gave plenty of clearance to get under and remove the skid plates and do the oil change.
I'll have to use jack stands when rotating the front tires.
The ramps would be nice, but don't really want to have to worry about storing them when not in use.
I found that my ramps will hang off one end of a screw in the wall of my garage so they are high up and out of the way, but still within arms reach when needed.
 
Been using Harbor Freight ramps.

Also, Just got a 10L extractor. 3rd Oil Change, and first time with the extractor. Worlds of difference.

View attachment 65028

Going to be doing brakes soon, so a floor jack will be in my future.
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Been using Harbor Freight ramps.

Also, Just got a 10L extractor. 3rd Oil Change, and first time with the extractor. Worlds of difference.

View attachment 65028

Going to be doing brakes soon, so a floor jack will be in my future.
So, you have what appears to be a Stinger with stock wheel sizes and you have no problems with the ramps just sliding along in front of the car? If so, awesome.

Not trying to be critical but the vacuum device leaves a dirty filter on the engine and if you crawl under to replace the filter why have the extractor?

Appreciate the info. Don
 
Thanks, that's a post that answers some of my questions. I have two wooden devices built with 3 2X8s screwed and glued together with brackets to keep the tire from moving. Not having gotting under it yet, I didn't know how much would be needed. A 4th board might be good as well.

I like the idea of a ramp but the ones I tried in the past only shoved the ramps toward the home end of the garage. Don
The 6x6 is actually measured at 5.5". So that's how much higher I had the front tires. I had a 2x4 peice ready but didn't need it. Your 3 2x8's should give you 4.5". Another peice might be handy. I'm not a big guy, so it may depend on your size too if 3 boards will work. Good luck!
 
I found that my ramps will hang off one end of a screw in the wall of my garage so they are high up and out of the way, but still within arms reach when needed.
The ramps would definitely be nice! But kind of hate to go buy them when I have the floor jack.
 
So, you have what appears to be a Stinger with stock wheel sizes and you have no problems with the ramps just sliding along in front of the car? If so, awesome.

Not trying to be critical but the vacuum device leaves a dirty filter on the engine and if you crawl under to replace the filter why have the extractor?

Appreciate the info. Don
Low profile ramps work fine.

Im lowered. With front splitter.

As far as why the extractor? I can get way more oil out.

And then you don’t have to fiddle with any panels. The filter can be removed with no issues via the access hole.

No spills. No drips. Very easy.
 
I think using a power bleeder for brakes is better than a suction device. With the latter you're pulling fluid through (and air that comes in through the threads around the bleeder). With the former fluid is pushed through, pushing any air out. I have a motive power bleeder I used on other cars. Will be using that on this one in 2 years.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Been using Harbor Freight ramps.

Also, Just got a 10L extractor. 3rd Oil Change, and first time with the extractor. Worlds of difference.

View attachment 65028

Going to be doing brakes soon, so a floor jack will be in my future.
Just to make sure I don't get exactly what you're using, I looked it up on Harbor Freight and what I think I see there is listed as Pittsburg Automotive 13,000# ramp for $47.99. Is that what you have? Thanks much. Don
 
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That will make oil changes much easier. For tire rotations, I have been in the habit of buying road hazard warranties from Discount Tire. I've gotten more out of them than I've paid and have done that with the expensive Michelin Pilot Sport 4s on my 2022 Stinger GT1.

I think I'll let them do rotations, they're free with the warranty. Thanks, Don
 
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